cavboy78

prayers, I do not, but have wrenched on them. Yes, bracket is pricey...but the quality is there and it's a much more elegant solution than the steel plate.

prayers, Have you checked CVF racing for a 351C Saginaw bracket? I thought they made one that would work. FWIW, did not have the clearance problem with my Borgeson box that you are having.

The OP never stated if he had a stock build or not, which is why I referenced the multitude of different types of builds and factors. My stang is/was a base model sportsroof with a 302 and C4. I guarantee you mine is more desirable and would sell for more now with my mods then if it was kept original. If I had a Mach 1 428 Cobra Jet, then that changes the equation. I am not going to get in a pissing match over who has bought and sold more mustangs, I just don't agree with blanket statements regarding desirability and value of these cars.

glossy black is easier to maintain if it's not a garage queen. I also disagree that deviating from anything stock devalues the car. There are too many factors and too many different kinds of builds to consider to make a blanket statement like that.

I've had the GW front kit for a few years now with no issues. That include tubular UCAs, LCAs, strut rod, and coil over. Seems there was no real difference between TCP and GW when I bought them...other than cost. FWIW, GW now sells an UCA with more built in positive caster which would be beneficial if going the borgeson route and correcting return to center issues.

I think wires got crossed here as RPM was asking for the link to the guy who sells just gears, not the built 3rd member. Either way, yes have been happy with mine. Shipped in a milk crate with the posi fluid and was returned with my old 3rd member for a core refund. Answered the phone when I called and spent the time with me to figure exactly what I needed.

reference post #6. complete 3rd member with posi for ~900. All you have to do is put it in...

ok, thanks!

because clearly I want to remove rust ofh the little green pedal car in my above thumbnail...ha

is this something I could paint on to chassis parts to help in the tough to scrub portions? Not sure if reapplying every few hours would mitigate not being able to soak in a bucket. Thoughts?

I bought my 8" third member with tru track from tj1141 on ebay several years ago for about $900. Zero complaints and a nice guy to work with. Gears were one of the biggest performance changes I made! Easy enough to do. No relationship with TJ1141, just wanted to pass on a positive experience.

i have the rmp mounts, mostly because i needed the 1/2" drop for hood clearance. My girl is loud and rumbly anyways, so i haven't even noticed any added nvh. fwiw...

just looks like some rust prevention up there in the land of salty roads!

coolest...dad...ever...

nope. long tubes from FPA, T5, and cable clutch for a few years now with no issues.

global west on mine. No issues for 7 or so years...

I was looking to go with something like this... no tilt column and very little leg room were the basis for my reasoning. http://www.billetspecialties.com/steering-wheels/d-shaped-collection-14/half-wrap-steering-wheels/d-shaped-collection/29402/

timely topic for me. I am struggling with either clear coating over hood stripe or something like sem hot rod black over the clear coat for a more factory finish. i like to drive a lot and its more of a durability and ease of cleaning issue for me. leaning towards clear coat/gloss stripe.

I did what KipDurran did except I painted the hose clamp black and used rubber only under the hose clamp. Works great.

you won the forum today with that picture! I always love smoking out the last little bit of tread before i get new tires....

mine is a 1 wire and it's internally regulated. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-7068fbull/overview/

I did the same thing on mine. Got rid of the regulator and cleaned up the wires. The ammeter obviously didn't work with the new alternator, but i plan on putting in new gauges anyhow. Just make sure you get the wiring right on the solenoid. It's different with the 1 wire set up. No problems on mine over the last few years.

I had a 15" wheel but it did not leave much space trying to slide my legs under it to get in the seat. I went to a 13" wheel but i feel like it looks to small for the space. I am looking to get a flat bottom or d shape steering wheel, if i can find the right one. the one below would work, but pricey... http://www.billetspecialties.com/steering-wheels/d-shaped-collection-14/half-wrap-steering-wheels/d-shaped-collection/blk29409/

A lot is personal preference. I wanted something that came back quite a bit to place the knob where i wanted it. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/huu-5387436

I have 4 wheel disc manual brakes on mine. x2 on what rpm said. They have a couple of different bore sizes and (if i remember correctly) the smaller is what you want with no booster. I have found that as long as you have a properly bled mc and lines, you stop just fine. Sure, it's more pedal effort, but if you stop all the same, I'm happy. The convenience would be nice if it's a daily driver, but i guess that's a matter of preference as well.