cavboy78

I would save that money or spend it elsewhere, and get the single piston rear calipers. I have not run into issues with the single piston rear brakes on the track, to include my 2012 boss 302. Now front brakes are a different story...

or mustang steve brackets with OEM style late model mustang hardware...

If your heads have the dual bolt pattern, I'd def try to find a header with the same. I have the FPA headers (with dual bolt pattern) flange and RHS heads with dual pattern and it is sooooo much easier, faster, and way less knuckle busting. Not sure what the headers have that you're looking at, but that is my .02.

For what it's worth, I just went through the exact same process. I only went hand tight (not vise tight), but did grind down the hole a bit on the inside to "unshroud" the sensor a bit more. Over the course of about 1500 miles of driving, I compared that reading with the EFI coolant sensor I had in the intake and they were always within a couple of degrees of each other. I used the permatex thread sealant and had no issues.

I started with a 70 sports roof with c4 and 2bbl 302. I currently has a T5, 8 inch rear (3.89), and a 351w roller block that is about 430hp/430tq (thread is below on engine build). I have lowering engine mounts and a drop base air cleaner, but have proper clearance for my rpm air gap intake manifold. FWIW, I have been driving it this way for years and the T5 and 8 inch rear end have not exploded. I would do it again. Plenty of power now and room for more if i want to make it a stroker later on.

thanks. I'll keep looking but may try to disassemble this afternoon and see what i'm working with.

The cable on the drivers side fresh air vent has been missing since I purchased the car 13 years ago. I've been driving it more regularly now and want to find the cable to regain the ability to open and close the vent. Can't find them anywhere. Am I searching using the wrong name (don't think so) or is this one of the items that is not reproduced? I'm thinking on buying a cable for an earlier year and see if i can get it to work, but not sure if that will be successful. Thanks for any help/input. Matt

I love my MTF headliner. High quality finish and great fitment. I used a layer of dynamat and a layer of dynaliner prior to installation and worked great.PM sent.

Opentracker sells a rear disc kit that is easy to install. I have it on my 66 and works great. Mustang Steve has rear disc options as well if you want to use a late model mustang set-up, but i think they all require a 17" wheel for clearance.

Yes, and if i remember correctly it's actually a very small clevis pin.

@RPM, Bob, Here are a few pics that hopefully will help you. The fuse panel looks to get right in the way of where the cable routes through the firewall though. Let me know if you need other angles or shots of anything else. Matt

total control products

No local engine builder available? These blocks are pretty durable and probably still have some cross hatching on the cylinder walls at 120k. Sounds like an intake/cam/heads combo with some new gears in the back would meet your intent...and keep you numbers matching, if you care.

Left out a couple of things, the FPAs are expensive but are top notch quality. The ceramic coating still looks good after 10 or so years and they tuck up pretty tight underneath.

I thought there were quite a few running FPAs?! Anyhow, 351w (F4TE), T-5 with MD cable clutch, Borgeson box with Saginaw P/S Pump. Exhaust is the 2.5 Flowmaster kit with h-pipe. I have the RHS 205 heads, which have the dual bolt pattern on the exhaust ports. This is what is really nice about the RHS heads with the FPA longtubes, since they also have the dual bolt pattern. Very easy to bolt up and remove as well. A couple of considerations: I do have adjustable motor mounts, which helped on the drivers side with both the cable clutch and the larger borgeson box. Also, i had to fabricate a bracket that bolts to an oil pan bolt and to the cable clutch itself. This helps secure the cable as it passes through the #7 and 8 tubes, which is pretty tight but doable. Hope that helps.

No experience with those headers you have listed. I have the FPA longitudes on my 351w with the borgeson box (slightly larger than stock) and it clears just fine.

A day late posting, but Roxy turned 50 yesterday! The second picture is the day i bought her in 2007 after a 16 month deployment to Afghanistan (and a gift to myself). The last shows her nestled in with the rest of the corral (Rowdy and Rhonda).

Not sure. I can confirm they are on my 70.

Have you looked at CVF Racing? They have 351C brackets that look lke they work with the saginaw pump, but appears you have to also use their a/c bracket that only works with a sanden compressor. I'm a 351w guy, so not too well versed on the 351c issues. FWIW, i have their complete v-belt pulley system on my 351W for about 10 years. very high quality and no issues. https://www.cvfracing.com/ford-351c-power-steering-bracket/

What heater hose are you using? I found that Napa Gold and Gates green stripe (which are the best imo) have a slightly larger outer diameter than basic heater hose. I was able to get the hose through the grommets (old ones) and to the heater box, but required some soapy water and brute force.

I used RHS heads on my 351w. Good streetable power, non-stroked and about 430/430 at the flywheel. Link below:

understand, but that should only be when the car is warming up. I would think this is the easiest way for someone who is not necessarily inclined to drill into their manifold.

You can buy a thermostat housing with a threaded port already in it. . https://www.cjponyparts.com/thermostat-housing-with-threaded-port-260-289-302-351w-1965-1973/p/TH16/

I have a 351w with air gap as well, but with the Ron Morris lowering engine mounts. Even with the mounts, I had to run a drop base filter to clear the hood. I think it's about 1.5" drop or so.

I'm not sure if that is a roller block...I'm assuming it is. Your build is similar to mine. I have a 351w roller block (RHS heads) with a T5 and 3.89 gears. I settled on the comp cams xe274HR which works well. Idle is a little lopey, but very drivable on a day to day basis and it pulls strong up to about 6000 rpm. Specs are at the link below. http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=1057&sb=0