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Showing results for tags 'rack and pinion'.
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Hey guys, I want better handling in my car. I want it to handle like a newer car (some say you can't do it, others say you can get it better than a newer car). I started out with 5k in mind, but I just got a quote from TCP for $10,500. Now that's a complete suspension (Rack, Upper and lower, coilover, strut rods, antiroll, pumps, hoses etc for front, Subframe Connectors and G-bar coilover setup with antiroll in the rear). I definitely want the internals of my car to be brand new since I'm slowly transforming this car into a daily driver for decades to come. I'm just double checking my work to make sure this is the route I should go or are there components I should switch out from TCP to another brand? Also, I would love to have a lower cost, but I've heard that Unisteer is a cheap rack from a few different shops. I've also heard cons about Flaming River. Who has switched to a Rack? How do you feel about it? As of now I have a pretty stock car with a fairly new manual steering box, Willwood disks all around, 18" wheels and it's fun to drive. I'm just getting sick of manual and I'd like it to handle better around corners and be easier to drive.
I know there are a few places to get installation info for the Randalls R&P installation but after doing it on my 69 Vert tonight, I thought I would add this to help others out in the future. There are a few things that are not covered in the articles I read. First off, lets talk about the steering column. For the 69, you don't 'need' to cut the column. I did the cut because I didn't find this out until after I started. Now if you want to cut it, that's OK. Here's how to do it... Remove the steering column from the car. You can do this with the column in but it's easier with it out. Once out you need to remove the lower steering shaft. This is simply done by taking a hammer and striking the rag joint at the bottom of the column. It will slid out very easily. Now, follow these steps.... 1) Measure the column from the top to 28 3/8". 2) Try to cut the column as even as possible. I ran tape around the column to be sure of my cut. 3) Clean up the edges of your cut and remove the plastic ring inside the column. 4) Now is a good time to test fit the coupling shaft. Be sure to slip the inner shaft on the coupler. Sometimes it jams beside it and it just seems to be on. 5) Once your happy with the fit. drill a small (1/8") hole through both the steering shaft and the coupling shaft. 6) Remove the coupler and clean out any metal shavings. I used a blower to get it all out. Then replace the couple shaft into the steering column. Again, be sure the inner shafts engage properly. 7) Now line up the hole you drilled and insert a screw to hold the shaft and coupler in place.