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TexasEd reacted to det0326 in 69 Door Hinges and Fenders
Ed, I have an original mirror housing if that is what u need and it is even in your color. I will have to locate it but I think it is in good shape.
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TexasEd reacted to jmlay in 69 Door Hinges and Fenders
If the base is not cracked/broken you may be able to heat with a heat gun and carefully reform it. If that does not work you have not lost anything.
On a second look it is broken. Bummer!
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TexasEd got a reaction from Mach1 Driver in 302 to 331 Engine build
My engine has been burning oil in at least two cylinders and misfiring in at least one so while my car is being painted I'm having the engine pulled and a local builder is going to rebuild it for me. I think this is pretty set. I've dreamed of doing something like this since I got the car in 85 but I have someone helping me put the parts together in a package that should work together. Before this was put together as a package I used to read comparisons between AFR and TFS or Air Gap vs Weiand Stealth
Goal is fun to drive street machine with torque and the ability to hwy drive with lower RPMs. I want a little rumble but not a race cam that is super lopey. I'm getting a used built T5 to replace my C4 at the same time, the original builder will go through it and inspect it. Also new gears in the rear, probably 3.5 or 3.7. I already have a set of JBA shorty headers and beautiful exhaust. This kit is more expensive than I was planning but it is all top shelf stuff.
Bore and hone my original 69 302 block Scat 331 rotating assembly Trick Flow 11r 170cc heads Trick Flow stage 1 cam Edlebrock RMP Air Gap intake Roller conversion new timing chain and cover Melling high volume oil pump Moroso baffled 7 qt pan probably going to replace the original distributor Builder wanted me to do a 347 and I deferred to the 331 and he is good about listening to me and pushing where he should and going with what I am comfortable with. Things that went through my head before were 351W vs 302 based stroker. Sticking with the C4 and doing gear vendors vs AOD or T5 and then this built T5 was available at a good price. T5 is supposed to go in the same spot as the C4 shifter.
Engine gets pulled out in a couple of weeks and we'll order parts after the initial tear down and inspection
A few things I have not decided on are replacing the starter, new alternator and what tachometer to put on the steering column. Leaning towards a Pertronix distributor with a rev limiter.
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TexasEd reacted to det0326 in 302 to 331 Engine build
Merry Christmas Ed. The only thing I would be concerned about is some of those stroker cranks were having problems with the counter bore on the back where the convertor snout slips in. I know u said that u were going to use the T5 so there may not be any problem for your build, just mentioned it in case something changes and u use the auto, have your builder to check the dia. and depth.
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TexasEd got a reaction from Grabber70Mach in I see the light ... body and paint
Parts started coming in today!
New front Valance, front spoiler and passenger mirror arrived from NPD today.
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TexasEd got a reaction from Ridge Runner in I see the light ... body and paint
Parts started coming in today!
New front Valance, front spoiler and passenger mirror arrived from NPD today.
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TexasEd got a reaction from RPM in I see the light ... body and paint
Parts started coming in today!
New front Valance, front spoiler and passenger mirror arrived from NPD today.
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TexasEd reacted to shelbyshelby in Hood Black Out Stencil
Finished my hood details. Turned out ok. Couple things to watch out for. 1) the stencil adhesive stayed wet for like 3 hours in my 75 degree garage. I used a few drops of soap in my spray bottle. I wouldn’t use soap the next time. Id say the 3 hours is a good thing for lining up the 7 piece stencil. The gotcha is if you stretch it during lining up, you’ll come back after drying and a small gap in butt ends. Here’s a few pics. It’s plenty nice for me. Now I wish I could figure out how to keep the cables on the hood pins without damaging the new blackout when it gets roadworthy. If anyone wants to know, I used 2 coats of Sem 2k hot rod black.
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TexasEd got a reaction from jjstang in 69 Door Hinges and Fenders
So I talked the shop into rebuilding the hinges on both sides.
I also had a member here contact me about a fender and we have struck a deal. Bonus he is in Texas and I will go pick it up over the holidays.
I love this place because I have several hard to get parts that came from members including a rear quarter extension, a power steering hose bracket and a headlight splash shield that I needed without buying the whole set.
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TexasEd got a reaction from RPM in 69 Door Hinges and Fenders
So I talked the shop into rebuilding the hinges on both sides.
I also had a member here contact me about a fender and we have struck a deal. Bonus he is in Texas and I will go pick it up over the holidays.
I love this place because I have several hard to get parts that came from members including a rear quarter extension, a power steering hose bracket and a headlight splash shield that I needed without buying the whole set.
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TexasEd got a reaction from Mach1 Driver in 69 Door Hinges and Fenders
So I talked the shop into rebuilding the hinges on both sides.
I also had a member here contact me about a fender and we have struck a deal. Bonus he is in Texas and I will go pick it up over the holidays.
I love this place because I have several hard to get parts that came from members including a rear quarter extension, a power steering hose bracket and a headlight splash shield that I needed without buying the whole set.
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TexasEd reacted to Rsanter in I see the light ... body and paint
So the next question I have is:
how well do your windows line up? If all is well you may want to just roll them down! Remove the felts, and then cover the glass with an static or adheasive wrap to prevent overspray.
who are you paying the shop to remove the trim and rear glass? That’s something I would look at doing myself.
who,is removing all the wiring and brake lines in order to properly paint/detail the engine bay
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TexasEd got a reaction from Ivo in Coil resistor wire Mustang 69
The advice I am trying to offer is don’t cut any wires. Mach 1 driver is also giving good advice.
you can use the “I” terminal on the solenoid for the choke.
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TexasEd reacted to stangs-R-me in Firewall Pad
I bought and installed one in my '69 with factory A/C in 2011 and here is the write up I did on it back then ...
- New Deluxe Molded Firewall Insulation Pad from Quiet Ride Solutions (MUST6970-CM1). After 7 weeks on back order with CJ Pony, I finally called the supplier (Scott Drake) direct, and their CS said they expected them in any day but had nothing firm. Not liking this answer, I searched other vendors, found one IN STOCK at Mustangs Unlimited, and canceled my BO w/ CJ. Paid $31 more for it but had gotten $20 / per $100 in gift cards from CJ (that I've since spent), so it was almost a wash. Anyway, it is a high-quality part ... better than the disintegrating OEM one I took out ... and fit nicely. All the needed holes were there, and I was able to re-use all my original hardware.
Doug
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TexasEd got a reaction from Ivo in Coil resistor wire Mustang 69
Best way to do it is use a relay with the original wire as the trigger and the voltage straight from the battery. I hooked mine up on the battery side of the solenoid.
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TexasEd reacted to Brian Conway in Sport Slats before or after paint?
Gasket around the perimeter and some bumps down the center. Brian
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TexasEd reacted to Ridge Runner in Sport Slats before or after paint?
My first 69 Mach 1 had louvers ,rear spoiler and front chin spoiler . When i bought it back in the early eighties the guy had them new still in the ford boxes ,he said they came in the trunk when he bought the car new . I put them on the car my self ,never really had much trouble wit the rear view but it seems they squeaked against rear glass and i think i put some one sided sticky foam on the bottom to stop it . ,it was just a small piece .
Mine being meadowlark yellow with black out hood and shaker i thought it really looked great !
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TexasEd reacted to aslanefe in 69 Door Hinges and Fenders
I am not a fan of hinge repair kits as the bushings that come with them are soft and wear out real quick. Also, if the holes where the bushings go in are worn out (oblong because the old bushings are disintegrated), putting new bushings is a waste of time. I enlarge the oblong holes to circles and make my own bushings from bearing bronze to fit to the new or non-damaged hole diameters. Either go with Mustang Steve kit or find someone who can turn you some bushings from bearing bronze like I do.
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TexasEd reacted to jmlay in 69 Door Hinges and Fenders
You might want to look for an oem fender before buying new.
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TexasEd reacted to Mach1 Driver in 69 Door Hinges and Fenders
The Mustang Steve version requires welding. His method may be superior, but I'll never own the car long enough to destroy the hinges a second time. This video by Don at WCCC shows how to rebuild a Cougar or Mustang hinge. Don't buy new hinges, they are cheap knockoffs, rebuild the originals:
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TexasEd reacted to Ridge Runner in 69 Door Hinges and Fenders
Dynacorn fender ,the bushings and pin can be replaced unless it has worn into the hinge
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TexasEd reacted to RogerC in 69 Door Hinges and Fenders
Get mustangsteve's rebuild kit. I've done mine but they're not on the car yet.
https://mustangsteve.com/product/do-it-yourself-rebuild-kit-69-70/