SWPruett

Howdy folks! I am a sucker for “old” tools. Particularly tools I was “raised” with and have since gone the way of the wagon in the modern sense. Recently, I picked up a very nice P&G Valve Gapper, nearly identical to the unit I was trained to use many years ago. If you know what these are and how they work, you’re my kinda crazy! There really has never been another tool like it to ensure extreme accuracy in setting valve lash on mechanical cams and it’s a shame they have become so rare. Anyway, as someone who continues to have need to set valve lash, and hates the feeler gauge method, I decided to try to find the most complete P&G Valve Gapper I could. This is a “Universal” model 300 which was considered the most “flexible” evolution of the design before they went obsolete in the early 70’s. As I have a desire to better round out my setup to cover all of the engines I get into, I am looking for some help in locating and purchasing some specific P&G parts if anyone might be willing/able to help. Specifically, I am looking for the following: Adapters (horse shoes): H-1, H-2, H-3, V-2, J-5, F-1 Barrels: #1 If anyone has any familiarity with these tools and has any leads on where I might find these bits, I would be very grateful! I have a small cache of Model 300 parts I have that I can trade if anyone else out there might have one they still use as well. Just let me know what you are looking for! Thanks!

Call Brian at CVF and tell him what you want to accomplish. They are very accommodating and can often help configure a belt drive to do exactly what you want it to do with parts they already make and/or they can tweak one of their existing designs to work for you. T he GM Type II pumps are far too popular and reliable to not have options available like that.

Vicfreg, That's some top-shelf work! Did you make the floor "floating" with the rest of the structures attached to it? Also, what is the source of that nifty amp cover lid you used? Neat stuff!

C’mon guys! I know it’s old, but this is still copyrighted material.

Beauty!

There is a thin membrane of rubber that is supposed to cover the large round hole to effect a "valve" to prevent debris, water and critters from going back up the drain into the fender cavity. The image of the new drains above is missing that membrane. Looks like it may have been cut out actually. Just an FYI.

Looks outstanding! Great color choice!

+1

Creeps the SH*T out of me!

TexasEd, Is that your original bezel or a repro?

Hello all, Just curious to hear first hand experiences with the repro std. interior gauge bezels available and if there is any one better than the other. NPD seems to be perpetually out of stock on the one they offer but I see Virginia Classic Mustang has one that appears to be available. Anyone have any experiences they are willing to share good/bad? Pictures would be great if ya got 'em! Looking for the best quality and fit we can find as the OE parts out there are getting rougher and rougher as years pass. Thanks in advance!

Just as a point of reference, the 1970 floor pan stamping was different than the 1969 to allow extra clearance in the tunnel to accommodate the Hurst shifter option. The “bump” tunnel in the 70 can also make seat options a bit tight in comparison to a 69 as well.

+1 And Street or Tracks systems are already proven on some pretty big power applications.

FINALLY! The voice of reason and experience! THANK YOU!!!!

Cunifer tubing is an outstanding choice for brake and fuel lines and is considered the "elite" material in the modern extreme performance and luxury car world today. Several manufacturers use cunifer tubing exclusively and many of the top-tier custom builders around the country use it daily. It is equally corrosion resistant as stainless and when polished is difficult to tell the difference between it and stainless. Unless you have a desire for the specific aesthetic appearance of stainless, cunifer is the best choice from all other mechanical perspectives (ease of flaring, ease of bending, no worry of cracking at the flare and/or work hardening, more vibration resistant, etc.) and it can be "worked" with conventional flaring tools, benders & cutters with far greater success than stainless in the average home shop. Beyond that, it's actually kind of "fun" to work with too!