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Ivo last won the day on February 23

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  1. Followed those videos, when I installed mine. I put relay form Pertronix Ignition with fuse and took 12V from the balast wire. I'm attaching a diagram I made, hope it will be helpful to somebody. I know its off topic, I'm attaching some photos of the installation:
  2. Are those parameters adequate for this engine and transmission? As I said, I'm new to engine tuning and I would appreciate guidance if I'm doing something wrong.
  3. Hi all! Recently I installed new harmonic balacer and new distributor on my 69 Mach 1. The engine is 351W four barrel with FMX automatic, completely stock, 70k miles. I installed the distributor as stated in the manual (10degrees BTDC). It starts and idles, I checked with timing light and rotated the distributor to 10* BTDC. However I need some help, configuring the timing further. The distributor is from Progression Ignition. I attached the manual of the distributor app: This is the setup I came up with: For idle I set 700rpm, because its automatic. The idle timing I left to 10 and the max idle I set to 32 degrees. I don't want to push the rev limiter, I'm only driving it on the street. I'm not familiar with the vacuum advance setup, thats why I'm asking. Replaced the coil, spark plug wires and plugs, gapped them at 0.040. This is my first timing adjustment.
  4. Thanks, Mach1 Driver! I wonder, could I wire both the dist and the chocke on the same terminal on the regulator?
  5. Thank you all for the advice! Learning every day. I was on a route to keep it original, but when I had to replace the dist cap and rotor (the rotor top connection was twisted), I was very disappointed with the quality of the reproduction parts, compared to the original. They were from Motorcraft. I live in Europe and especially in my country there are no mechanics with good experience in vintage american cars, which I can trust. If I want good experienced mechanic or service, I have to go abroad and it becomes expensive very quickly. I'll do whatever I can myself, nobody loves my 69 more than me. Mach1 Driver, I'll listen to you about the alternator. As for the dist, I wanted the convenience with the electronic timing adjustment, I really love the looks, the ignition locking and that there are no ignition boxes. After reading all suggestions, I'll reconsider and use a relay.
  6. Did not get that. I'm with OEM alternator with external regulator. I'm planning to change to one wire in the future. If I cut the resistor wire 2 inches from the switch and connect it to a new wire, would it work? Or I have to connect the new wire directly to the switch? I'm sorry for the lame questions.
  7. That's what I'll try with the electric choke on my new carb. I'm completely new to the electrical stuff, I don't understand relays yet and am nervous not to screw up. Am I reading the diagrams right, is this wire connecting to the resistor wire and then the coil? The another wire, which goes to the same end of the pigtail is the one, going to the alternator regulator, right? P.s. The car is non tach.
  8. The key is on On positiong, the car is not running. I have to take out the cap of the distributor wire out, because I can't reach the coil terminal otherwise.
  9. Hello, I'm upgrading the stock distributor and ignition on my Mustang 69 351w with HEI style. The distributor is from Progression ignition, the new coil is MSD Blaster 3. Changing the spark plug wires as well. I've read, that on the new ignition styles, the voltage to the coil from the ignition switch must be 12v, not 6v with resistor wire. Before taking anything apart and rewiring, I took out the multimeter and checked what's the voltage on the stock coil. And surprise, 12.3volts. I traced the wire back to the ignition switch, there are no cuts and bypasses from previous owners, I'm really confused. The coil is stock (yellow capped), the distributor is with points. I'm I missing something or checking the voltage wrong? The positive clip attaches to the positive coil terminal (which wire goes to the dist) and the negative clip I'm attaching to the negative battery terminal. Thanks, Ivo
  10. I'll find TDC and try to advance the dis by hand. My balancer marks are gone. Sadly the new balancer and distributor are a month away.
  11. Today I checked the distributor, the gear is ok. Checked the coil, solid 12v. Made a new 12v positive wire from the coil to the distributor, the old one was cracked and barely hanging. Now I'm suspecting the carb, as it's the original Autolite 4300 and it is in very bad shape. Tried to tune the mixture screws, but no cigar. Ideas? I'm attaching two videos one with the dist gear, one with the engine running. received_3352570048401947.mp4 10-16-04.21.04.mp4
  12. Thanks! On the weekend I'll find TDC and check the dist rotor. I'll check the spark plugs aswell I'll report back.
  13. Hello, two days ago after taking my Mach 1 (351w with FMX) for autumn drive, when driving on a sloped road, the car cough couple times and the engine died. I thought I ran out of gas (the gauge is not working) as I was on sloped road, so I poured 5 gallons from my gas canister and tried to start. It wouldn't. So I checked the fuel line at the carb, it had pressure. After another few attempts to start, the battery died. I took another one (luckily my garage was close), it started but it was running horrible (max on 3-4 cylinders, the whole engine was shaking) and it backfired from the carb (blue smoke). I thought that I flooded the engine. I took the sparks out (4 months old), they were fouled and with oil on the threads. I cleaned them, put them back in, it didn't improve. I took the distributor cap off and saw that the new rotor, I installed couple weeks ago was scratched on the top. I'm thinking the distributor jumped and messed my timing. If I rev it a little it smoothens, but the idle is horrible. I ordered new distributor (Progression Ignition), new coil (MSD Blaster 3), new spark plug wires, new harmonic balancer (the old needed changing) and new Carb (Edelbrock AVS2 650cfm). I'm living in Europe, so they will arrive in a month. As I'm relatively new to old cars and restoration, can I be missing something? The car is completely stock with original parts as far as I know. Thanks!
  14. Thanks! I forgot to mention its 351w with FMX transition, all stock. Its strange, because on slow speeds there are no vibrations, even if I kick down from standing start up to 40-50mph or simply rev the engine. The FMX shifts amazingly smoothly and the driveshaft looks surprisingly fresh. When I drive it, when the vibrations start I simply let off the gas and press it again and the shaking stops.
  15. Hello, Few months back I bought a 69 Mach 1 and I found strange vibrations under acceleration above 40mph. The vibration is strong through the steering and the gas pedal. As the car was sitting for 10 years and everything is original, I'm thinking of replacing the whole front end (upper, lower control arms, springs, idler arm, tie rod ends etc.) and the steering box. The strange thing is when above 40mph the vibration starts, if I lift off the gas pedal, the vibration stops, but if I accelerate again, even slightly, the vibration starts again. Sometimes there is no vibration at all. The tires and wheels are new and balanced. The engine and transmission work have no issues, when I bought the car the gasket on the rear differential was fresh, so I'm thinking it was redone. I know that there could be hundreds of issues and everything should be redone, but I need guidance where to look next. Thanks!
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