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jjstang

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jjstang last won the day on May 3 2018

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About jjstang

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    Mustang Owner
  • Birthday 09/07/1954

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  1. That was my first thought
  2. Thanks for the replies.... The por-15 has been around a long time. I mentioned the Master series primarily since their surface prep requirements are pretty lenient. I look at the Por-15 tech sheet and it said it can be used over rust but didn't say anything about cleanliness. It didn't mention What spray gun tip? Are you using it as a replacement for epoxy? The whole car? But no one told me they are getting in to these tight spots.... (-:
  3. Ok, I'm at the point where I'm stripping the car down to bare metal in prep to epoxy coat. I'm looking from inside, around the top inner/outer wheel wells and wondering how the hell does one get in there to strip it down. There's not much space to crawl in there. What did people really do in there. I'm thinking of using the master series silver in there because the prep requirements are not as stringent. There's a lot of nooks and crannies where stripping to bare metal seems impossible. Places where you couldn't get a blasters into. Maybe chemical strippers, but I wanted to avoid that, especially in some of those tight spots you have to crawl into. What about the backside of inside doors and backside of inside the side kick panels. I'll bet that made sense.... Am I trying to hard?
  4. So where is everyone hosting their pics. I would hate to pay for it......
  5. Good ideas/advice. Didn’t know about the asbestos. Got a couple questions about the primer. It sounds like the pot life is only a couple/few days so I would want to mix just enough. Is there some coverage ratio like “10oz covers 5 square feet” . And do I need to get down to bare metal or can I prime over original primer or sanded clear/base.
  6. I'm finally to the point that I start stripping the undercoat/sound deadener from inside and out the whole car. I know blasting is the best, but I decided to do it manually. I assume this is going to be long process and I'm concern about flash rust taking over before I can hit it with the epoxy primer. Again, I assume I will have to do it in sections, maybe a days worth of stripping and the next day to spray, and so on. It will probable take longer than the 7 day window so I'll probably shoot a final coat all over in one day at the end. Hoping I don't have to rough sand be fore the final coat. Looking for advice TIA
  7. Some PO installed A/C to my car. Upon dismantling, this is what I found. I have some fiberglass experience, made surfboards as a kid, so I'm not against attacking a repairs. Other than cutting out a cardboard template I'm not sure how to go about it. Particularly the lip/channel. Do you think this is worth the challenge, doable? The used ones I've found are very expensive. I like to repair parts when it makes since. TIA
  8. I agree with sixt9, don't underestimate just replacing the 40 year old stuff. Made a huge difference on my car. Depends what your after. I've keep investigating new setups but also cringe at the prices. Ultimately I think roller perches and the arning drop and I'm good. I don't really want to completely lose the feel of a classic car, that's what it's all about to me.
  9. A huge thumbs up. Tried out Ridge's tool this weekend. It's fantastic!! Works great. Thanks
  10. Hmm, that that hidden wire. Would it work to run run it up under the headliner?
  11. I would be curious if someone figured out a more hidden route than the factory route.
  12. Will be a great help. Thanks for your contribution.
  13. Well Houston has been shut down and there hasn't been much to do. So I had to work on the car!! Zap in the front outer frame rail patches, radiator support and front aprons. I guess there's a bright side to everything.
  14. How much was their quote, if you don't mind me asking.
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