TexasEd

PM me if your repair doesn't work, I have a couple e brake assemblies.

The spring is visible at the bottom. My brake has been modified in the picture as part of my right hand drive conversion so some things may look a little odd.

My 69 Grande has Nugget Gold interior, seat belts (webbing and plastic/rubber parts) are gold/beige color.

Build date Jan 16, 1969
 

Brakes Bled, timing set (still runs rough). First time out of the garage in 7 years!
Did a shadetree alignment and drove her around the block.  Had a lot of squeaks like maybe I did not install bearings right or something.  
Looking into trailering her to a shop for alignment, checking those squeaks and fine tuning it.

I love that color. What is it?

May 16, 1969 - Raven Black with Black interior with 302, 3 speed, now Red on Black with 302, 5 speed in Australia
 

My baby turned 50 on 2nd June. And I missed it. I don't think she's talking to me now. Maybe flowers will help.

Years. They move so fast. This girl has been in my life 41 years now. So hard to believe. I just drive her. Really need to do suspension work, but I'd just rather drive. This year has been tough. It rains every weekend, so she hasn't seen many road miles.
Of the 41 years owned, the open diff has grabbed both tires less times than I can count on one hand.  Another finger happened this weekend! Once I am too old to giggle at stuff like this, it's time to take a dirt nap! So special when she goes sideways!

Check your neutral safety switch (jiggle the shifter while key is in crank if automatic); broken wire in NSS jumper if manual tranny.

Here's what it looks like electrically. As Mid said it could be the neutral safety switch, or you could be right and its the ignition switch. You could put the car in park or neutral, turn the key to "on" and jump from S to the battery lug on that side of the solenoid. If it starts but dies after you remove the short, then its either B to C in the ignition switch, the tach if you have one, or the resistor wire. 

I'm getting a lot of smell when driving. Monday was fine parked it got in it Tuesday and it's like a different car. I'm going to pull some plugs tonight. 

I have had a NAPA rebuilt alt in my car for years with no problems.  But I am never more than 20 miles away from a NAPA store if it needs replacement.  I would also guess new ones are really cheap, unless you need a high amp alternator or a single wire one.    The reasons you might need a high amp alternator is if you have halogen headlights or an electric radiator fan.  Both of those are large power hogs. A amplifier for your radio typically does not take that much power.  A lot of people think it does, but that is not reality.   So a standard 60 amp alternator could work fine, I have used it for 30 years, even with AC, high power amplifiers, and halogen headlights.  
A solid state regulator is a good idea at the same time.  It is also a good  idea to insure all the wires and connectors are secure and clean.  Send your engine harness to Midlife and have him check it over, that will remove all doubt. 
Get on the road, summer is coming!

If they are both on backwards, you need only to swap them in the correct orientation but to the other side. Somebody likely flipped them intentionally, possibly jacking with you or the previous owner. Ridge is right, place a block of wood at the bottom of the medallion and hit upwards.  

It somtimes takes a block of wood and hit upward on the rim to get them off . They lock on the same way as the window molding clips do and they lock on very well

Yes they slide up, and they run forward.

I think we got the same car!

Thanks, I like your avatar.  I need to get me a Terlingua Racing sticker

This is what you do when the old wheels don't fit over your new brakes


 

 
 

Right now it is just 4  tiress strapped together.  They are black with white letters.  Looking at pics today to decide RWL in or out.  I lean towards out most of the time but sometimes this generation of car looks better with them out.
 
I'll post pics when I have the wheels.

@1969_Mach1 Ended up ordering the wheels from Summit.  They beat out CJPony price and delivery.  The tires were ordered from Discount Tire Direct.   CJPony did have best price on center caps and lug nuts though.

@1969_Mach1 Ended up ordering the wheels from Summit.  They beat out CJPony price and delivery.  The tires were ordered from Discount Tire Direct.   CJPony did have best price on center caps and lug nuts though.

I bought these from Coker tire a few months back, they are Specialty Wheels. Looks like they are around 14.5" 

I'll get you those measurements in a bit.   

The starter solenoid IGN terminal should only have 12V during crank.  After that, if there is power at that terminal it would be less than 12V.  If you look at a wiring diagram it's easy to understand why.  Connecting the choke to that terminal is the same as connecting it to the + or - side of the ignition coil which is incorrect.  If you are looking for the easiest method, try the "S" terminal on the voltage regulator (if you car doesn't have a factory tach).
Your first issue is to connect the choke wiring correctly and set it so the choke plate snaps completely shut when cold.  That choke has an internal choke pull off so as soon as the motor starts up, engine vacuum operates the choke pull off and immediately opens the choke plate roughly 1/4" or so to prevent the motor from flooding.