TexasEd

My vision:
A nice B9, in near concours condition, candy apple red, costing $20k. 
 
Hey!  I can dream, can't I???

After the last few weekends, finish the one I'm working on now without any more steps back

“A street car that reflects the classic 70’s Transam race cars - a compromise of factory appearance, power vs liveability”
To that end
1970 Mach 1 M code
Engine 408c with original but refreshed 4V’s. Aim is to look stock but have 450+
Shaker - bought a Scott Cook intake so I can run it
Close ratio toploader
3.25 LSD
Classic or Vintage Air
Stock interior but added factory tach dash and sports deck rear seat, LED dash lights
Running gear
Shelby UCA drop
QA1 shocks
lowered as much as I can bare - @ 2”
 
Stock exterior
Still unsettled on colour either back to Wimbledon white (original) or change to Calypso Coral as I really like orange as a colour
Got the wheels
Transam Race Engineering Minilites 17x8 and 17x9.5 with 245/45 and 275/40’s
 
Thats about it.  The aim remains tough Road car - I want to drive it around the country a fair bit 
 
 

Pro touring is the look I'm going for.
69-70 coupes always go to the poormans 302/429 boss look. I wanted to be different, wanted to add a bit of mordern ford OE Parts and color. Inspiration came from the cali special, new edge fr500 concept and the termy 03-04 cobra. Silver and Black wheels look so good!
just a summary of what I went with:
393w stroker (dyno 360 RWHP, 400RWTQ) TKO600 kit from MDL Street or Track Front Coil over suspension w/ Bilstein Sport Shocks 4.5 Mid eye Grab-a-Track Leaf springs w/Bilstein Sport shocks Vintage Venom (RIP) 03-04 Cobra front and rear brake kit Ford 9 TruTrac w/3:50's Dakota RTX Gauges (still getting used to this, but so far its great!) Vintage Venom front and rear 03-04 cobra brake kit 18x9/10 FR500's from americanmuscle.com 245/275x40x18 BFGoodrich Sport Comp 2 Summer Tires Ford Ingot Silver, Paint Code UX  

Hey TexasEd, 
I like your overall vision statement as mine is very similar with a bit of a lean towards the Pro-touring/Restomod vehicle.  I wanted more modern drive and conveniences of a modern car, but had to keep the original body with some slight changes that don't stand out drastically, but to make it slightly different.   
A quick list of modern conveniences: 
Vintage Air AC
Unisteer Power Steering
Cobra Disc Brake upgrade
FiTech FI
TKO600 Transmission with Hydraulic Clutch Setup 
Upgraded Radio with Kicker Components 
Street or Track Upgrades Suspension 
TMI Covered Foxbodies in Mach 1 Upholstery 
3 Point Front Seat belts
LED tail lights and Halogen Headlights 
Body Changes: 
Removed 1/4 Panel Emblems
Removed Trunk Letters 
Removed Rear Wing/Still need to add Front Spoiler 
Paint Whole Hood and Cowl Flat Black 
Paint Tail Panel Flat Black 
Painted on Side Stripe with Body Color Showing through for striping and MACH 1 lettering 
17/18in Bullitt Wheel Combo 
 

My favorite type of cop is to cop a feel.  My wife just calls it groping.
 

My favorite type of cop is to cop a feel.  My wife just calls it groping.
 

That's very close to mine. Back when I started out a long time ago, I thought I'd keep it all original. Even bought some bias ply tires. Then I figured a plain-jane  F-code was boring, so I went with some period correct mods - stuff you could have done back in the early 70's. I had a set of vintage Ansen Sprints, an Edelbrock F4-B intake,  and even a vintage Holley 600. 
Then I added some invisible modern stuff - Pertronix and headlight relays, LEDs for all the interior and dash lights. Mini-starter. Used a retro roller cam just to up the cost of the engine rebuild :)
Now that I've driven it for a few years, disk brakes and a T5 on are on the list to make it more fun on the road.
Never used the bias ply tires. They're dry rotting away in my shop with, like, 100 miles wear on them :)
 

My vision ?  Running in the mid 8's in the 8th mile.   Not impossible or unrealistic but probably unlikely.  Brian 

My issue has been an ever changing vision. 

I had a Griffin before my crash. It was an "Direct-fit", not the Exact-fit, so I had to dent the underside of the hood to clear the cap. I had dual slim spal fans. It cooled great, but for my rebuild I wanted a OEM appearance and a perfect fit, so I went with DeWitts with dual spal fans in a shroud. Have not run the car with that setup yet.
Only thing you need to go to the 24" radiator is  removing the drivers side block off plate, and adding the bolt in lower radiator cradles. And new hoses of course.

Yes, My confidence level has gone from 20% to 90% with the link that @Kris shared to Classic Auto Air https://www.classicautoair.com/shop/1969-ford-mustang-daily-driver-ac-kit/
If you look at the under dash plenum it looks the same as the one I have.  I only need to patch in my old controls.  I'll get modern performance with the vintage look.
That is my "vision" for my car.  To keep the vintage look and have better performance, reliability and drive-ability.  So putting new guts inside the AC I have fits along with the put a digital radio with bluetooth inside my vintage AM radio.
This sounds like a good topic for a thread of it's own.

With my 69 Coupe I am going the restomod route. I have performed the Arning/Shelby UCA drop, rebuilt the complete front suspension using period correct looking parts that have been modified including a roller idler arm for the manual steering, 1" lowering front coil springs, 1" lowering 4.5 mid eye rear leaf springs, adjustable strut rods, 68/69 Mustang GT wheels, Mach-1 hood scoop, front & rear spoilers, & Shelby convertible lower side scoops. It has a modified 5.0 roller motor, T-5 5 speed, hydraulic clutch, dual electric cooling fans, front disc brake conversion a period correct looking AM/FM stereo with modified internals to be able to play my MP-3 player through it, Dakota Digital VHX gauges, sub frame connectors, Monte Carlo bar, export brace, rear seat to trunk divider panel, & a complete rewire using AAW wiring kit. My Coupe was originally painted meadowlark yellow, I will have it painted chrome yellow still keeping it in the yellow family, &  still trying to decide if I want to go EFI or just put a carb on it.

Depending on what your ac needs it may be cheaper to replace it. Classic auto air has a kit that looks very similar to what you have. It’s a little on the pricy side and why not upgrade to the in dash unit at that cost if you have to. Your upper controls should be an easy fix. Your cables are probably broken or locked up. 
 
https://www.classicautoair.com/shop/1969-ford-mustang-daily-driver-ac-kit/

My guess on your frozen switch is the cable that operates it is bad. If your controls the factory installed ones there is nothing to them so it could only be the cable. If you go with vintage air or classic auto air they reuse your factory non ac gauges. All the cables that originally operated them are deleted also. 

Also, I'm slow today and not following these two posts.  
 

Metuchen build date: 10/07/69:  Sold to Maguires Garage Inc. Duncannon PA on 10/17/69

Here's mine built Feb 24th and is now enjoying Western Australia.

They do not go into the trunk at all. 

I went for the CJPP LEDs. In Australia you can't have the brake lights blinking so I did a little mod. I also added a brake light under the spoiler. Walking past the rear you can't se it until you crouch down. Not for everyone but I want to lessen the chances of a rear ender.

A day late posting, but Roxy turned 50 yesterday! The second picture is the day i bought her in 2007 after a 16 month deployment to Afghanistan (and a gift to myself). The last shows her nestled in with the rest of the corral (Rowdy and Rhonda).

I went with a stock style with mild upgrades and could not be happier.  Talk to John at OpenTracker.
I did roller spring perches, roller idler arm, lowered upper control arms and put 620# springs in front and mid-eye leafs in rear.  It drives better than when it was new. I keep stock appearance, get better performance, and saved a lot of money.  I also did a CSRP Disc brake upgrade on my original spindles.
https://opentrackerracing.com/
http://www.discbrakeswap.com/

Here is my VHX box installed. I am using AAW wiring harness.  The box is mounted to my Vintage Air system.   
 

I recently tore my original headliner.  When I touched it the thread was dry rotter and it split at the first seam.  Now I have old foam padding falling on me.  I probably need to get new sail panels too.
I have the Dark Red interior so I need that color.  What should I do about the insulation?  Is this the time to replace the package tray, seat belts, etc?  My windshield also has a lot of pitting.  One thing leads to another.