fvike

Overflow tanks are often mandated at race and drag tracks.

It's been 5 years since I pulled my car apart, so I might be a bit rusty here.. I think the gray 90-degree pushes onto a stud on the radio. The two green ones I have no idea. Glove box light or clock perhaps? Midlife will probably chime in with the blueprint ;)

The pictures shows the den I made to fit the Wilwood MC and a Hydraboost unit. Cut out a piece of the shock tower, flip it around and weld it in place again. Or just use a big hammer. This is the best picture I could find of it installed.

Skidmarky, you got a PM. Danno; please post up. I don't have tilt, but I may have to get one.. I got unoriginal seats and the room to the steering wheel is borderline.

Can anyone show me a picture of this bracket? Pedal support to dash. The closest thing I got in my garage is this one, but I don't think it's the same. Bolt holes are to small.

Starting to get the hang of it now..

I have the TCP ones. With the X-brace under the car. It's the only one I have experience with, so I can't say much about other brands.

At $2500, you're a little bit low for a complete front suspension AND rack'n pinion. You could buy one kit and do another later. I have the TCP front suspension, and their Power rack and I'm happy with it. The Street or Track front coilover come in at just under $2500, and the TCP is just over. My only complaint on the TCP is that the Varishocks haven't been very durable. I guess the Bilsteins in the SoT kit is better. For steering, the TCP rack is the only way to go. It has OEM steering geometry, and is bulletproof. I have the power version ($2392 minus the pump), but I got it over an decade ago. Today I would have bought the manual rack ($1652) and gone for an electrical assisted steering column. As I always do in these kind of threads, I point out that the single best thing you can do for your car's handling is to install subframe connectors. Especially in a cab. It makes your platform stiffer, so thay your suspension doesn't have to combat chassis flex. It will be isolated to do it's job.

Thanks. I started dynamating some more. Tip to everyone: Buy the pre-cut kit. Saves you a lot of work. Also I've sent out a lot of bare aluminum parts to be coated gray to match the color on the hood hinges and cluch resorvair.

Yup. The only Coyote headers that will fit the DSE Aluma-Frame is their SS headers. At $3250....

The rear bumper is starting to get where it needs to be. Two bumpers has been joined to form one. There's still some work left, but the overall shape is there.

If you're gonna pull the ad, they better put up some $... say 10%. Shows you that they are committed.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/search/department/fittings-hoses/part-type/hoses-miscellaneous?N=4294951003%2B4294948091%2B4294865063%2B4294868574 These are E85 and Ethanol compatible hoses. I think ethanol is something we have to deal with in near future. Here in Norway, legislation was passed last year for 10% ethanol mix from next year, and 20% from 2020 on regular fuel. Premium fuels will still be available, but If I know Norwegian politics right, they will tax it so hard that it will not be an option. Even today, 70% of the pump price is taxes. We're at $6.64/gallon for regular gas (95 RON), and $7.10/gallon for premium (98 RON). Crazy when you think of that we are an oil exporting nation. The Norse sea is full of it. So, I'm currently designing my own fuel system, and I'm making it ethanol compatible, even if I plan to run a carburetor at first. One important aspect is the fuel pump, especially electric ones. Ethanol does not lubricate, so the pump will cavitate and will deposit metal that clog up injectors and fuel rails. It's a lot more expensive than a conventional fuel system, but I'd rather spend the money now, than do it later plus an engine rebuild.

I have both the Jim Osborn and the Ford shop manuals for my '69. Prefer the Ford, because the watermarks in the Jim Osborn manual makes them hard to read. Really have to concentrate.

Dammit, that just plain flat out sucks. I hope the metal in the roof structure is ok, will make it a bit easier to restore. I had to replace all the sheetmetal in front of the firewall after my crash. Almost 5 years ago now, so It will take time. I know you are down now, but don't waste to much time before you start the rebuild. Of course, you need your garage rebuilt too, but have fun with it, plan the build, start bench racing and build a vision for your Mustang project.

Sure, guess it's ok for a groceries getter, but for a car that is my hobby and I enjoy to drive, I would not use a generic shock like the KYB. It was in that context I made the comment, as an enthusiast car.

Exactly. And that is a good thing. You get what you pay for. KYBs are shocks that will do on any car, but isn't great for any car. I cannot think of any situation where you would want to put $40 shocks on your car, especially on your pride and joy.

Today I finished restoring the heater box and the wiper motor. A friend of mine overhauled both motors, and went over their internals.

I just learned about a device that is supposed to help carb throttle response, on a Facebook group. Has anyone tried it? Looks and sounds to work in the video. http://www.thompsonperformance.com/ I guess it won't cure a over-carbed situation, but could optimize a correct size carb.

Since the title says "First engine rebuild", I'm gonna offer you some tips about the process itself. I learned thru trial and error. When you assemble the engine, clean everything. The picture shows what was left when I had washed new Scat rods and a new Scat crank. A lot of dirt in that bucket, and more importantly, not in my motor! I used regular dish washing soap, if it can clean dishes or a oily frying pan in seconds, it will also clean the oil film on new parts. The block I had cleaned at a fully equipped truck shop, they have gigantic washing machines, stuff is clean when done! Also, here's the setup of the work bench. New rods out of the box, needs to be cleaned. A cup of oil to soak the lifters. ARP lube for the fasteners, and use quality paper, like the blue one there. Cheaper paper might leave debris on the parts. I also had cam lube and a oil can for the rings and cylinder walls. About the rings, get an ARP ring compressor. It will be the most valuable tool in your cabinet, even if you only use it once. Total game changer. If you follow the instructions of a book, inspect all parts, see that they are at spec, and above all, clean everything thoroughly and torque to spec, you will have a great, tight engine. Take your time, do it right the first time.

Now that the new paint has rested enough that I'm comfortable to work around the car. First thing we did was to put some rust primer on the welds in the raised trans tunnel and then a new layer of U-Pol Raptor bedliner. After a week, I wanted to start bolting stuff on. Started with the fuel lines. The front one went on ok, but the one going back to the tank did not fit due to the larger wheelhouses. So we tried to bend them, but did a wrong bed, tried to correct it, but the line was basically screwed. This was stainless pre bent lines from Classic Tube. So, after that failure I opened up the Classic Tube brakelines. These were rusted. Bummer, I thought I had gotten stainless lines, but apparently I hadn't. They've been stored in my barn for 5 years, probably to moist there for them. So need to get new brakelines too. The whole day was a 2 steps forward - 1 step back kinda deal. So, I started to install some Dynamat. Not much, because it was getting late, but I wanted to have more than the front fuel line installed in a days work. Not a productive day, but that's how it goes sometimes. However, did get some sunrays on the paint a few days before: I'm calling a Win on that.

This will show you the difference between an 69 and 70 hood. http://anghelrestorations.com/uploads/3/1/7/6/3176630/69_70_hoods_v1.0.pdf

Well, I have the TCP power rack. It is hands down the best on the market. Several reasons for that. 1. Build quality. It is made up of Woodward internals. Will not break. No plastic tie rod mounts like some have. 2. Geometry. The tie rods at or very near to the factory location because the rack replaces the center crossmember that runs right behind the original steering links. The bump steer correction kit will allow you to get rid of any bumpsteer. The rack uses only original bolt holes in the frame. 3. Tuning. The flow rate of the KRC pump can be changed to get a lighter or harder feel. The internal torsion bar can be changed to further tune road feel, and the servos can be adjusted to correct steering bias. Those that have the manual TCP r/p rave about that, never tried it. It's about preference I think. Just like r/p and steering boxes, it's about personal preference. http://totalcontrolproducts.com/download/datasheets/RCK_DS_WEB.pdf As for TCP vs GW, I don't know, I have the TCP stuff. Never let me down, but I'm not fond of the VariShocks. One important thing about the Detroit Speed suspension; if you want to run a Coyote in it, the only headers that will fit is the $4500 Detroit Speed headers!

It was installed when I got the car. I never had it off to look how it was done.

I had this Flex-a-lite cooler with it's own fan, worked good. It was in series with the auto cooler in the radiator, but I can't remember which way it flowed. It only had those rubber hoses to the radiator, and to one of the hardlines from the transmission.