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Everything posted by fvike

  1. I was running 245/45-17. I've sold those wheels, and haven't bought new ones yet. There should be room for 296s at the rear with the correct backspacing.
  2. 102?!? D-D-D-Damn! Yeah, he still has it - It's a Plymouth Barracuda. Last month or so we have been installing a Edelbrock Pro-Flo4 EFI system on it, along with new long tube headers, Magnaflow Exhaust, new fuel tank and fuel lines. Big-ass job!
  3. This one should work with your setup. https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/aed-6701bk/overview/make/ford
  4. Hi, are you looking for originality or is it not so important? Also - perhaps 351C guys can chime in on this - 351 Clevelands doesn't work very well with Edelbrock/Carter type carburetors. You should run a Holley 750HP.
  5. NPD has 2 concours bolt kits for 1969. https://www.npdlink.com/product/mounting-kit-radiator-concours-saddle-brackets-to-radiator/106112/202824?year=1969 https://www.npdlink.com/product/mounting-kit-radiator-concours-8/106111/202824?year=1969
  6. BigDuke6; I have a 351W with the Edelbrock RPM package (same 60259 heads), 10.8 comp and a Crane HI-6 igintion system. I remember going to a colder plug, I think it was from NGK FR5 to a NGK BKR6E. I have them gapped at 0.050" or 1.3 mm. I remember that helped the engine alot. I run 98 RON gasoline (Shell V-Power) that is perhaps the same you get in Germany, or do you use 100 RON ?
  7. Good work so far! Nice to see another european on the board.
  8. If originality isn't important, have a look at the KRC PS pumps. They have both cast iron and aluminum pumps, so the price range is pretty broad. The cool thin about them is that the flow valve are changeable for flow tuning.
  9. I've always used NGK plugs and Crane/FAST FireWire. They have a super low 25 ohms resistance. After I found the spark plug that works for me I forgot everything I knew about spark heat ranges. But other than the white tip, that plug looks nice.
  10. Nice work, but what application are they intended for? I have a Moroso Road Race pan. I had to modify it to keep oil flowing over and out of the trap-door diamond at hard breaking. I discovered this was a problem at a road course. Original. Modified. Dimples are for the oil pump bolts.
  11. I have used flickr to host my pictures. They give you space for 1000 pictures for free. After that you have to buy Pro membership. My bulid thread is 6 years old and 19 pages long. I just had to get Pro at new years, so it will last a long time until you have to get Pro. And Pro was ok priced, you do get discounts at a lot of webshops for camera and picture stuff. They also have an app, so you can upload pictures directly from the phone. Easy to use. Drag-and-drop uploading in the web browser.
  12. The floor at the seat riser is double bottomed, so SFCs cannot interfere. Convertible rockers will take up some real estate, but it should be minimal up on the seat riser. I cannot see that it should be a problem.
  13. I replaced the cork with the foam from a plug in type gas cap that you get at gas stations. It sealed the tank, so I got fuel starvation. so I made a notch in it to let it vent. Didn't take much, and haven't had any spills since.
  14. Well, it used to be Candyapple red. These are some photos I got from an PO. I have more, but there are people in them, so I don't know if I should post them. The current color is a SEAT color called Rojo Dehli Effect. SEAT is owned by Volkswagen. This is the next to oldest picture I have of the car, Mt Home Air Force Base, Idaho, 1984. Newly restored in 1989. Gresham Theater, Portland. 1992. Mt. Tabor, Portland, 1993. The day I bought it. 03.13 2004. It had a similar color to what I have now. I had it photograpehed at a paint shop years ago with a 100% match to a Mazda color. But I don't know what it was called. It was painted that color after 1999, but had been a metallic red from 1995.
  15. Dude! I feel your pain. I actually turned away when I saw that first crash picture. DAMMIT THAT SUCKS!!
  16. Mine would have looked just like yours out of the factory.
  17. I don't think they are flush. There's a gap that is covered by the bumper. They need to match at the wheel arch. This is a repro valance. The OEMs fit better.
  18. The headlight bucket isn't supposed to be all one color. It should have a black-out area, painted by a brush. https://pin.it/cjyaxgzwhnsn63 http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=9875.0
  19. Nope. '69s got marker lights in them. '70 marker lights is in the fender.
  20. I think the meaning of post #24 is that the method applied is wrong. As in adding SFCs will do nothing for radiator support flexibility. I can very well believe that. But it will do a lot for the chassis. And the method applied misses that. The setup is the problem. The frame is supported by 3 jack stands. The whole of the chassis isn't available for flexing because it is locked in place. He is just measuring flex in the front frame rail, not the whole unibody. When the shock towers and Monte Carlo bar was in place, that load was spread across a larger area. When removed, and the same force applied will show more flex because the area it is applied to is less (limited). The 25% torsional stiffness credited to the MC bar isn't because the MC bar is so immensely strong. It's just a piece of steel. It is because the MC Bar allows the frame rails to be connected to a larger area. He should have put the car on it's suspension, but with strut rods instead of shock absorbers and springs. That way, the frame itself would not be supported at any given point, and free to flex all the way from front to back.
  21. Did you see all the videos? There's a playlist with 13 episodes. Ep 9 shows retesting at Multimatic for damper tuning. The Videos show re testing on the 4-post rig, and the Multimatic people at the track for real world testing. The job was done right. No, they do not give away their test results, just as they don't with the spring rates and the damper valving. That way a competitor would get them for free. I'm sure the hours at Multimatic wasn't free. I'm telling you, all you have to do is drive a car before and after getting SFCs installed. If you have, we wouldn't have this discussion. It is a night and day experience. The Barracuda and the Mustang have differences, but they both are unibodies with separate front and rear framerails. How supposedly one benefits form SFCs and the other don't, you'd have to explain to me. Well, apart from removing the shock towers. All the testing done in the "garage test" is meaningless according to post #24 on that tread.
  22. The main difference between the Barracuda and the Mustang, is that the Barracuda uses torsion bars instead of coil springs. So the tower of the Barracuda is a lot smaller, 'cause they only house the dampers. The transmission tunnel support is quite a lot beefier, because it houses the torsion bar housings too. The Barracuda does not have torque boxes, only the Hemi cars had that. My brother's Barracuda does not have torque boxes. The XV Motorsport kit that was sold to the public did not have the boxing of the upper rad support shown in the videos. They did have a Monte Carlo/Export brace that was mounted to the inner fenders and fire wall. All in all, I'd say the Barracuda weaker in stock form. I remember driving My brothers car when it was stock. On S-corners with a lot of camber, the fenders would visibly lift and dip. It was very soft in the front. This was with a 340 small block. The rear is quite strong. The Barracuda actually have a roll-over protection bar just over the rear window. So my experience with both cars is that the Barracuda was a worse starting point, and that the modifications XV did is applicable to the Mustang. Sean Hyland made at least a Mustang prototype with the XV suspension. I think it was a '66 Fastback. But the XV stuff was very expensive, so they didn't sell in the volumes they needed to survive.
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