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dkm004

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About dkm004

  • Rank
    Mustang Owner

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  • Location
    Calgary Alberta
  1. Hey guys.I just fitted Wilwood 4 piston calipers with 12" rotors front and rear (Power brakes). My Stock master seems to be circling the drain, so a replacement will be necessary soon. After talking to tech support at Wilwood Im not (nor was he) certain that their master cylinder measuring 8" will fit as a replacement on a 69. Can anyone chime in here with experience with them or what upgraded/after market unit you went for?Cheers Stralia.
  2. After looking at the 295"s I agree with you that they do look a tad out of place. That said, without wanting to roll my fender lips after an expensive restoration that took close to a year, It looks like I will be sticking with 235/60/15 for the front and 275/60/15 or 255/60 rear on the 8" Superlites with a 4.5" BS.
  3. Im having the same dilemma. Just got my Mach1 back from resto and Im now about to order a set of 15X8 Superlites and BFG's. 235/60s will be going on the front but Im unsure of what will fit on the rear. I like the Trans am look. Reading the OP's 295's are too wide (these were my original plan) and the 255's are a tad narrow. I would like to see pics of 275's on the back if anyone has experience and a pic to share? At 28" tall 275's are there scraping issues if the fenders are not rolled? What you see here in the pic is powder coated 14X7 stockies powder coated with 245/60/14. Cheers!
  4. Hey. There maybe a linkage you can purchase from Edelbrock to integrate the kick down rod. I know this is a Holley but it may help give you a visual on what you need. Hope it helps! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zv5Pw8QMOfs
  5. I have the diagram. The problem is that my harness fell apart and I have no reference to what pin went in what position. Ive worked all but one out. The new harness has 2 white wires that I have no wire to conect to.
  6. Hey Fella's. Im in the process of replacing my numbers matching 351W in a 69 Mach with a 450hp 408W Stroker to put the original 100k mile engine in storage. Everything has gone smooth so far, the only glitch so far being with wiring harness doesn't correspond with the looms wires. The new harness has a Green, Yellow x2, white x2 and a Black. The cars original loom has A Green/ Red stripe, Orange and Yellow. There is also a black wire that seems to be a ground. The green goes to Green/ Red and the Yellow to Yellow from what I can tell from the manual. Can anyone school me on which wires connect to which colour? Cheers.
  7. Mine does it cold or warm, idle or running. Then will fire up again fine a second later. Im stumped! Has to be electrical, not fuel.
  8. Im running a MSD. Did he need to replace it?
  9. Hey guys. My 351W had picked up a bug the past few days. I will be driving along in traffic or idling and BAM, just like that it just shuts off. As soon as I hit the ignition it fires right back up again no problem and runs fine. Its only happened 3 times but I cant seem to source the cause. Any clues? Cheers!
  10. In the front I used 1" 620 coils and did the Shelby upgrade of re-positioning the upper control arm. It lowers the front an extra inch as well as upgrading the handling noticeably. The rear got 2" lowered leaf springs and 1/2" lowering blocks. KYB shocks on all 4 corners with 14's and a 1" sway bar up front. It handles and looks great IMHO.
  11. It turned out to be the synthetic lubricant. They changed it out and tried a few different types with the additive and now its all quiet back there...Pheeew!
  12. Thanks fella's, however it looks like it could be a bigger issue, they claim that the friction additive was added, if thats the case then something is very wrong back there. As a reference, just how much noise is acceptable and to be expected while turning with a clutched posi? They cant see it till Wednesday, my concern is that there has been some damage done to the clutches or gears.
  13. Just had a new Yukon rear end installed and its making severe rubbing/grinding noises from the clutches during slow turns, it really sounds like something is ready to break off back there. No issues in a straight line. Im taking it back to the shop that did the work tomorrow and Im assuming from what Ive found online that they neglected to put in friction additive. Can anyone recommend a particular brand to me?
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