Cruzzar

Backfiring thru the carb usually indictes a lean condition if timing and valve settings are correct. Is it possible that the idle circuits are plugged and not getting enough fuel? If it runs fine at a higher rpm then I would not think of a flattened cam. Just $,02 worth of suggestion.

Do you have room for a shock absorber to connect somewhere from the body to the upper or lower control arm and will it allow full turning from left to right without hitting the tire? Mounting of the air bag doesn't seem to be a problem.

I had the same problem with a GM turbohyrdromatic 350 transmission and I was able to purchase a special tool that could remove the old seal and it could install a new seal without dissembling the trans, just remove the shift arm from the end of the shift selector shaft and it would sorta of screw itself into the seal and then you would would tighten it up and it would pull the seal out. I forgot where I got the tool from but you could check online or take it to a transmission shop ant they could replace it without a taking off the pan off.

The headlight trim is soft aluminum that is anodized. I took it to a shop that does anodizing and they tried to strip it an said they couldn't (the acid did not remove the original coating). I took some fine wet and dry sandpaper and literally sanded off the original coating and polished it back to a high luster and then clearcoated it with the same material that I put on the car. The aluminum is a soft aluminum and polishes out easily.

In the case of the coyote it has an mechanical internal pressure switch, other cars use an electrical switch that requires an wire connection to the compressor besides the one for the magnetic clutch.

Your older compressors/ac systems regulate the temp. by you turning a temperature switch and the compressor will cycle (the clutch) on and off to maintain the temperature. All coyotes as well as a lot of other cars now have variable displacement compressors. Internally they are capable of changing the stroke of the pistons and instead of cycling the clutch on and off, the compressor will vary the pressure (by changing the piston's stroke). Once you turn the AC system on the clutch engages and stays engaged until you physically turn the system off. Vintage air has their reasons for not using this type of compressor and recommend you use a conventional compressor that they supply.You can read up about it on their web site, they basically don't like the temperature of the system to be possibly controlled with two different types of controls, changing the displacement and cycling the clutch on and off. Newstang, I am glad your system is working . I have talked with several people doing just as you are and they have not experienced any problems. I am planning on doing the same.

Just to let you know, if you order their complete wiring kit for the coyote and a complete kit for the fuse panel (includes all the wiring and plugs) it comes in a box with a shipping weight of about 55 pounds. No way around the issue of making anybodys' wiring any lighter but I was a little surprised at the total weight. Are you going to install AC and any thoughts on using the variable displacement AC pump that the coyote comes with or will you replace it with another conventional unit?

My current project is still under construction ( '53 Studebaker with a 2013 coyote) so I can't comment on the installation of their complete wiring kit for a fuel injected engine into a classic car. I have used their wiring kits on at least 5 other cars that I have built (all carbureted) with the last being my '70 fastback. I can say the wire quality and the ease of installation is tops. The one item that I think is significant with the Ron Francis kit for the coyote is that you can order the wiring looms extra length so you can put the pcm and fuse panel where you want them. I put mine under the back seat in my current project. On my '70 FB I used their 24/7 fuse panel and mounted it on the passenger side kick panel high enough so you could not see it. It is attached with a strong magnet and a long enough lead of wire that if you need to check a fuse you just reach up and pull it down and at that point you can easily see every fuse and change it when you are in a comfortable position. Nothing like trying to get to the stock fuse panel behind the clutch pedal. If you use the Ford racing package you are limited to where you can put the pcm unless you wish to cut and extend every wire in the loom. To obtain my motor I purchased a wrecked 2013 Mustang GT so I was able to get the complete motor, drive by wire pedal assembly, pcm, water and oil senders, both oxy. sensors, mass airflow sensor, alternator, and starter. If you purchase a crate motor then these are additional item that you would have to purchase. With the Ford racing package you get an air cleaner that I doubt that you could use on the mustang. In regards to the pcm, I simply sent the one from my 2013 GT to Ron Francis and they reprogram it with the same program that you would get with the Ford Racing pcm. I believe that for me it was cheaper to obtain a wrecked GT for its parts than to purchase the required items new. I am also able to use the 6 way power seats and the Ron Francis kit will now support the 6 speed auto trans if that is the way you want to go. I don't believe using the GT's 6 speed manual trans is an option because of the shifter position is so far back but I could be wrong. I hope this give some insight as to your purchase. By the way my '70 Mustang was recently sold to one of your mates down under so it might show up at one of you meets down there. Its the one pictured above.

Aslanefe, sorry for the slow response, I am just getting back online from a laptop dying on me. I think I just used some of the clear that I was shooting on my body panels. PPG clearcoat.

Shelbyshelby, , sorry for the slow response, my laptop took a dive on me and I am just getting back online. It's been about 6 years ago that I redid my trim and I think that I started with 320 and worked up to about 2000. Just try not to induce any more scratches than necessary, it will just take you more time to sand out even thou it is really soft aluminum.

I'm with Ridge Runner, these extension can be twisted carefully. I was able to realign my '70's extension to fit the fender contour and match the spoiler at the same time. I could be the silver one has bondo but that can easily be removed and determined if it is been damaged in an accident.

I took fine wet and dry sandpaper and sanded off the clear anodizing coating which left a pure aluminum finish. This aluminum is an almost deadsoft aluminum and can be polished up easily by hand. I clearcoated mine after polishing it (use a good degreaser/wax remover before clearcoating it to remove any wax residue from the polish. I drove the car to shows for about 5 years with no degradation .

Try to mount it in a rubber isolated mount. I did this and you could still hear it at idle and I had a relative loud exhaust system. If you mount it directly to the metal body you will probably not be happy. Just my $.o2 worth.

Any chance that you are going to put subframe connectors on your car. Before I installed mine I routed my battery cable down thru the bottom of the trunk area right into the middle of the subframe connector and thru the middle of the connector up into the front sub frame and than it exited close to where the starter terminal was located. This took a little planning and I did weld in 3/4" emt to form a continuous tube from trunk to where it exited the front sub frame close to the starter. Probably a lot more work that routing the cable internally but it really is a clean, simple path for your cables.

As I recall mine was not exactly centered but I can't tell you by how much. What is important is that the center line of engine and transmission be perpendicular to the rear end's center line.

Most of your IFS applications can be ordered with a power or manual rack since they are basically based on the Mustang II front end geomentry. You will probably have to contact the manufactures to see if they can be connected with the stock column. Be sure you ask specific questions that include will it fit if I use headers, stock z bar (if using a manual trans), etc. Do a search on here to git others opinions as to whose IFS installation positions the motor in the lowest position and any installation problems. Instead of a hydraulic power rack you might want to consider an Electric Power Steering installation and not have to install a power steering pump and hoses on the engine.

Ilalojamesliz, sent you a pm.

A little bit off topic but the hood latch mechanism from an early '70 Ford pickup is an almost exact copy of the '69/70 Mustang except that it has a cable release instead of the under the front of the hood manual latch. It is an exact bolt in to the Mustang's, the only difference is the safety release lever is a little different as I recall. Just pull the truck's latch and remote cable, bolt in the latch and route the cable thru the firewall and mount under the dash next to the parking brake and you have a secure hood. A coil/fuel pump disconnect is a good (and easy) safety backup. I had a coil disconnect switch under my dash of my car but I did something a little different. I purchased a flashing 12v red led light (like they use on alarm systems) and mounted it into my dash. I purchased a Dual Mode Dual Throw (DMDT) switch which allowed me to either switch on the coil when I drove the car and when I wanted to secure it I would toggle the switch which would kill the coil and at the same time turn on the flashing led. I did not have an alarm on the car but the flashing red light would be a deterrent to a possible theft.

Coyote headers won't fit the 4.6/5.4. Bolt pattern is different.

Instead of a dome light you could go to pick-a-part and get an interior rear view mirror out of a late model mustang convertible. It mounts to the windshield with a glue on bracket. The mirror has both individual reading lights and a dome light that operates when the doors are open. It has a nice plastic cover for the wires that go to it. You will have to pull some wires in the headliner for it but you can eliminate your conventional dome light with it.

As I recall the trans would make contact with the engine block without forcing it but there was no clearance between the flex plate and the converter. I don't remember if the studs could be rotated in their respective holes when the trans was buttoned up to the engine. Would this small amount have caused problems I can't say but after changing the flexplate we has a small amount of clearance to pull the converter up against the flexplate after the trans was attached to the block. I suspect that if you take the flexplate to a good transmission shop that they would be able to identify it and locate another with more offset.

I helped a friend put an AOD behind a 351W and with the converter seated into the trans it still made contact with the flexplate. After a long discussion with the trans shop that supplied the flexplate and the rebuilt trans they said to bring the flexplate back and exchange it for another that had less offset than the one we had been given. Evidently they made more than one flexplate with different offsets. After replacing with the new one we has a small clearance between the torque converter mounting studs and the flexplate after bolting up the trans to the engine. Probably not what you wanted to hear. This may not be your problem but something to consider.

I had similar issue with a previous car and it turned out to be not enough contact between the yoke and transmission output shaft. You should have only about 3/4 inch of extra space when you install the drive shaft into the trans and then slide it back to engage it in the rear end's yoke. I had a new shaft made(longer) and vibration went away. Just a another possible problem to check out.

Had the exact same problem with my '70. Changed plugs, cap, rotor, checked fuel filters, etc. Finally changed the electronic (petronix) pickup inside the distributor and problem was solved. Car had less than 4000 miles on if when this happened. Everything on the car was new when I built it. Problem would surface and then go away and then come back. My tach would also become erradic.