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Cantedvalve last won the day on April 24

Cantedvalve had the most liked content!

About Cantedvalve

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    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 10/30/1976

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  • Gender
  • Location
    -Huntertown, IN
  • Interests
    Mustang, Wife, Kids (not necessarily in that order)


  • Location
    Fort Wayne, IN
  • Interests
    Mustangs, the kids, and annoying my wife... not necessarily in that order
  • Occupation
    Accounting guru

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  1. $#!+!!!!! Broke a piston ring today while installing the pistons. Second ring, must have pupped out of the groove while I was compressing them, another ring on order. I did get 5 pistons done... then decided the busted ring was an omen and packed it in for the night. On a related note, Sealed Power/Federal Mogul can kiss my furry butt. They packaged these rings with NO explanation of what they were. So the second ring... says TOP on it. I now know this means “this side up.” Why not put “UP” on it? I was beginning to think they packaged the damn thing wrong. Top ring had... nothing on it. No dot for up, no engraving, no bevel. Nothing to signal which side goes up. Why? Because it doesn’t bloody matter, and it can go either way! Spent half an hour trying to find the answers because SP/FM likes to be cryptic. Buttholes.
  2. Yeah I figured that out. So as both find the same thing, I think I will blue them and avoid the lapping compound unless I absolutely need to touch up things
  3. Well yeah... I’m sure they are in your part of the world!
  4. Bit of history here. Back some 20 years ago, I bought a set of rebuilt heads from eBay. They cam assembled, and everything looked really good. I bolted them to my engine, and thought nothing of it. Since then I have probably 15-16k miles on these heads. No issues. These are 1971 351-2V heads (not my originals obviously). Fast forward to today. I am rebuilding these heads with all new components - new single piece stainless valves with single groove locks, new retainers, and new springs. I have taken these heads apart to find a) the guides have been replaced, and they are in great shape, and b) the valve seats all look great. I have checked the install height for the springs, and I am finding that all the install heights are at 1.795-1.800", exactly where I want them, and very consistent, meaning (hopefully) that all seats were ground to the same depth. My plan was to blue the valves, and if minor lapping was needed, lap them in, and leave it at that. Now, @1969_Mach1 has asked me why I dont have the heads machined and the valves lightly ground to ensure a quality seal. My response is, because as far as I can see, they don't need it. My position is that if the blue and lapping proves to show a good seal, that I dont need to worry about machining the seats, that the valves will seal just fine. Since the guides are nice and tight, and all the valves were in like new condition (save some carbon build up), nothing points me towards thinking I need to do any machine work. But I kick the question to a larger audience... in this scenario, is lapping the valves in a good option? This is a street machine with under 5000 miles annually. No racing, just spirited stupid driving.
  5. Because they don’t need it. I have a plan for a future set of heads. These are run of the mill 2V heads... not worth it. I am going to lap the valves in, and if I have a good mating, I’m done. Next set of heads will hopefully be Aussie heads.
  6. So today wasn’t as productive. I did get the other cylinder head disassembled. Haven’t started cleaning it though. The first one I got cleaned up and brought it inside to check install heights. Every single one was between 1.795 and 1.800. No shims needed on this head. That leaves me with 130 lbs seat pressure, 356 lbs at max lift, and 0.114” before coil bind at max lift. On both heads, valve guides were previously serviced with the coil type bronze liners (just noticed that one). All guides are nice and tight. All valve seats look new. So it’s just a matter of cleaning, painting, and assembling (and checking installed height on the other head). Both heads though had a boatload of carbon build up in the exhaust ports. It was coming out in chunks. Oh well, I’ll get them clean. I can’t even begin to describe how stoked I am!
  7. So... today was productive. Sand blasted, cleaned, and painted the oil pan. I’d really rather get a new one... this one is scarred with pitting and it looks like a previous owner hit something with it - certainly wasn’t me - but I’m going to stay with this one for now. Also accomplished today was installing both the camshaft and the crankshaft. Main bearing clearances checked out between 0.0015 and 0.0020 on standard journals. Can’t complain about that! Thrust was in spec, and I remembered to install the rear main seal. Also brought the heads home to be disassembled and cleaned. Got one disassembled before mosquitos chased me back inside. Both are soaking in cleaner overnight. Should clean up nicely. The one I did get apart had really good valve seats (not original heads), so other than lapping the new valves in, I don’t plan on doing anything with them. Today I received my new valves, springs, retainers, locks, and seals from Alex’s Parts. Went with single groove one piece stainless valves made by Qualcast. Probably same company that OEMs for larger brands. Everything was packaged beautifully. I got beehive springs to offset the heavier roller lifters, and Alex set them up to the specs for my cam. I’m excited to try my hand at setting installed height. I’ve got the shims ready. Pictures attached. Used Eastwood paint on the block and Duplicolor engine paint on the pan. Not quite a match, but I don’t care so long as it lasts.
  8. Found out why my rear main seal was leaking a bit. Back when I "rebuilt" this engine 12 years ago, I tried to drive out the pin that holds in the rope seal because I was switching to a rubber seal. I was unsuccessful, and it looks like I smashed it down instead. Took a Dremel and ground down what was left of the pin. Now no leak... hopefully.
  9. Today would appear to be uneventful, but it wasn’t. First, I chased all the threaded holes in the block. Then, I pulled out the 240 dingle berry hone and gave each cylinder 10 strokes. After that, I washed down the inside of the block... for 3 hours. Finally, I installed the new cam bearings. Why are people so spooked by cam bearing installation? I’ll admit I was too, but once I figured out there were only 2 bearing sizes and not 5, I was good. Get the right tool, and it is easy as long as you take your time. Tomorrow, cam installation, crank cleaning and installation, and hopefully pistons in the holes.
  10. So that was a trip. The gel dried to the block, so we (me and the boy) had to wash that off. Then we had to wash it off again. We finally resorted to a pressure washer to get it all off. Cleaned the block, wiped it down several times with wax and grease remover, then mixed up the paint. Used Eastwood Ceramic Engine Paint - a urethane with embedded ceramic that is said to be good to 650 degrees. It came with an activator. We used foam brushes to paint the engine... we went in a continuous circle, probably three times around. Weren’t too careful with gasket surfaces, I can clean those up later. The shade is probably a bit lighter than I expected ( might darken as it cures)... but I don’t care. So long as it lasts. I did everything I could to make this paint stick and stay stuck. After it has cured, I am going to start cleaning the inside and making ready for short block assembly.
  11. So at noon the Evaporust had been on there for 15 hours. I pulled it off, brushed the area with a steel bristle brush and water, and it did a decent job. The "saturated paper towel" method doesnt appear to be particularly effective, but the product works. I went and got the gel version, and applied that to the highly visible portions of the block. It will have 4 hours (directions say 1-2) before I get to clean that off. At that point, I'm cleaning and painting.
  12. I have that and wax and oil remover. I checked on it today... not the results I hoped for, but it’s working. I used the soaked paper towels method as the Evaporust is more of a soaking solution. It’s hard to get into the different tight areas, so I may have to get a bottle of the gel to do those areas.
  13. Looks great. I went with Evaporust as it got good reviews and was available close to home. It’s applied, bagged, and we will see tomorrow how it did. Also got my cam bearing tool today and I knocked out the old cam bearings. I have everything I need to finish the short block now. Waiting on springs and valves to do the heads.
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