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Cantedvalve last won the day on January 14

Cantedvalve had the most liked content!

About Cantedvalve

  • Rank
    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 10/30/1976

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  • Gender
  • Location
    -Huntertown, IN
  • Interests
    Mustang, Wife, Kids (not necessarily in that order)


  • Location
    Fort Wayne, IN
  • Interests
    Mustangs, the kids, and annoying my wife... not necessarily in that order
  • Occupation
    Accounting guru

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  1. Cantedvalve

    Home Shop Air System upgrades - help

    Yeah, and I read that the kit I considered can have leaks too. So copper it is. I have everything on order, and it’s about $140 with tax. I also got a 50 foot 3/8” Flexzilla hose and some 1/4” V-style high flow fittings and couplers. When I get to paint, I’m gonna get 1/2” hose and 3/8” fittings.
  2. Cantedvalve

    Home Shop Air System upgrades - help

    Okay, I have a decision to make. I have the piping sizes and layout done. Now I need to decide what to use. I have been pricing out copper, as it is readily available and recommended as a clean solution. My total spend is coming up to $135 with all tubing, flux, solder, joints, etc. for 40 feet of 3/4" copper and 4 attachment points. All in all, good setup at a minimal cost... assuming I can solder it (I assume I can). Now the other day I came across Rapid Air Maxline kits... 100' of 3/4" tubing and a variety of parts to do 3 outlets. More tubing, less attachment points, $139. To get the 4th attachment (and go through the wall like I planned), I would need 5 more right angle fittings, another outlet kit... damn that's like another $130 right there. To save what... soldering? You know what, I think I just answered my own question.
  3. Cantedvalve

    69 front valance same as 1970?

    yeah, that is exactly why I was asking.
  4. Cantedvalve

    69 front valance same as 1970?

    Okay I see that. I asked because mine doesn’t follow the lines of the front headlight buckets - looks mismatched. I’m guessing that just is what it is.
  5. I’m got a replacement one on my car now. Are they the same year to year?
  6. Cantedvalve

    Home Shop Air System upgrades - help

    Okay, after letting this one simmer for a week (almost), I am satisfied with adding an aftercooler to the compressor. If I can figure out how to mount a fan on it, I will do that too if the temps dont come down enough to remove the moisture. Most of the setups I have seen dont run a fan, but instead rely on the compressor pulley/fan thingy to pull air through. I will have the air coming from the cooler go through a filter to capture whatever it can before it goes into the tank. I am switching out the black pipe for copper. Copper is cleaner. I have a flexible line from the tank to the plumbing to isolate vibration. I probably should get vibration pads for the compressor, but that can be done later. I will have a hookup right outside the compressor, and another after the pipe goes through the wall. I don't plan on another filter until I get the line through the wall into the other side of the shop (we have a big side, where the compressor is, and a small side... both have lifts and need air for tools and such). It will travel another 30ish feet before the next filter, which will be the last inline part (probably a 2 stage with a regulator). Ill have 2 outlets here... one on each side of the wall (so back through the wall) after the filter and regulator. I will have more filters and such for painting that wont be hard plumbed... but that is for a later time. I am contemplating running the copper pipe UP the wall at the compressor, but there are two obstacles. 1) there is electrical conduit that runs the length of the wall, and b) I hate heights. so probably just take it through the wall there.
  7. Cantedvalve

    Home Shop Air System upgrades - help

    That's a lot of valves. I may do something similar, but different... but not first. FIRST, I am putting an aftercooler and an auto drain filter on it. I plan to use a transmission cooler as the condenser... mount it on the fan cage in front of the compressor pulley, which is also the fan for the compressor. That is step 1. I have the parts ordered, they should be here Monday... or was it Tuesday. No matter. Also have to replace the drain valve on the compressor. The wings came loose and now I cant open it.
  8. Cantedvalve

    Home Shop Air System upgrades - help

    Okay, so I am reading about an aftercooler for the compressor. Basically, cooling and drying the air before it goes into the tank. Not as an only solution, but an additional solution. Takes some fabrication, but might be worth it. Seen setups using AC condensers and ATF coolers. I might look into it. What size NPT do I want to use for the hardware connections? At least 1/2... what about 3/4? Where do I see diminished returns?
  9. Cantedvalve

    Home Shop Air System upgrades - help

    I’ve heard of that before too. Wouldn’t even need ice... water would do. But ice would be better. Pressure concerns me. I tend to overengineer things so I never have to worry about a failure. . I’ll look into the coiled copper... might be a cheaper solution than my zig zag of copper pipe. I am pretty keen on ditching the black pipe though. How do you get the water out of the coils? No drain I assume...
  10. Cantedvalve

    Home Shop Air System upgrades - help

    Here is my crude drawing... my plan was to zig zag horizontally, with a little slope on each leg so the water could move top to bottom...
  11. Cantedvalve

    Mounting of modern single DIN radio

    I went a little on the cheap side. I’d heard bad things about some of the aftermarket bezels, so I bought an original that had seen better days and made my own. Ended up cutting out the sides and epoxying some 16 gauge on the outside. Works well, fits, and cost me a lot less than the aftermarket stuff.
  12. Cantedvalve

    Mounting of modern single DIN radio

    I’m not sure we want pictures of your back side... ... or your knob! :-)
  13. Cantedvalve

    Home Shop Air System upgrades - help

    It's time I start getting the shop air system order. We have a compressor already, and its worked well for us. 16CFM @ 90PSI, 80 gallon tank, 5HP. What I don't have a good grasp on is what I need to be able to shoot my own paint (HVLP I would assume). We don't have much in the way of plumbing on this thing so far - some black pipe, a small water separator, and that is it. Hoses are 3/8" stuff we picked up at a Ford dealer auction many many moons ago. Not much has been spent on this system so far. What I have in mind is: running about 40 feet of 3/4" copper tubing in a zig zag pattern right next to the tank to "simulate" the long run of pipe needed to cool the air and condense the water to extract it 2 stage oil/water separator coming off the copper monster .................. And that is all the farther I have gotten. As far as hoses or fitting sizes I want to run a paint gun (or air tools), I havent the slightest idea what I want or need. I know bigger is better, but when is better enough? My gut says that for most of my tools, a quality 3/8" hose with high flow (1/4" flow size) fittings on each end is sufficient (don't have any problem running tools now). However, this same system is going to be running paint guns in the near future (albeit with different hoses, and probably additional drying and filtering equipment). Do I want or need 1/2" hose? 3/8" flow size fittings? Should I get a secondary tank to put somewhere near where I am spraying? So yeah... not sure where to go from here.
  14. Those don’t look like original bolt covers.
  15. So amongst the variety of gifts my wonderful family got me was new solid state flashers. These buggers are direct replacements for the thermal ones... but no click. Now on hazard lights that is fine, but for turn signals I think I will want my click back. Anyone got any good ideas?