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Cantedvalve

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Cantedvalve last won the day on March 21

Cantedvalve had the most liked content!

About Cantedvalve

  • Rank
    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 10/30/1976

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.1970sportsroof.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    -Huntertown, IN
  • Interests
    Mustang, Wife, Kids (not necessarily in that order)

Converted

  • Location
    Fort Wayne, IN
  • Interests
    Mustangs, the kids, and annoying my wife... not necessarily in that order
  • Occupation
    Accounting guru

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  1. Cantedvalve

    What did you do to/for your Mustang today?

    Didn’t get much done... DID get my rivets today to put the headlight switch back together. Had to buy 100 to get 3, so it anyone needs any...
  2. Cantedvalve

    What did you do to/for your Mustang today?

    I had $18 in the bulb sockets (didn’t price shop), but the wire and heat shrink I had laying around from when I scrapped an EFI harness and other miscellaneous projects. I am reusing the 12 pin connector from my aftermarket gauge install, just had to buy some new pins. I enjoyed doing it for the first 4 hours. That last hour though....
  3. Cantedvalve

    What did you do to/for your Mustang today?

    Aaaand... it’s wired. Good news! Dash lights aren’t shorting to ground! Branching the grounds and dash light power took forever... I started on it at around 5pm and finished around 10pm. Breaks in there, but not many. @Midlife buddy... you aren’t charging enough!
  4. My rheostat doesnt have any corrosion. I checked it again over lunch because I thought maybe I was reading voltage (I had a 12v source hooked up to it at one point). Nope. 12 ohms. That is between the R terminal and the I terminal when turned all the way down. Funny thing... when I go through the B terminal to the I terminal, I get 15 ohms... the difference being the internal breaker. I hadnt planned to do anything on the inside of the switch, but if someone tells me that 3 ohms is too much, I will.
  5. Cantedvalve

    What did you do to/for your Mustang today?

    Working on the gauge cluster, trying to get everything working. Gauges don’t work, and for some reason my left blinker indicator was stuck on. I also have blinker indicators turning on with the dash lights... so, I am ditching the circuit card PCB that has really deteriorated. Also unhooking the ammeter. Would really like that to be a volt meter... Anyway, I checked the gauges and they are good. I tested the new solid state regulator, and it is rock solid at 5V. Also started wiring the gauges, and I’m waiting on the bulb sockets (should be here today)
  6. @Midlife i’ll leave it put then. Does my ohm reading for the rheostat look right?
  7. Side note, my solid state CVR (constant voltage regulator for those who Google this later) puts out a very solid 5.00V from a 12V source (not the stepped down resistor wire voltage). So the question presents itself... do I need the resistor wire, or can I run a new one from the accessory post to the voltage regulator? I need to be careful... soon I'll be rewiring the whole dash area!
  8. So I was cleaning up and restoring the rheostat on my headlight switch (took it apart, cleaned the contacts, relubed it). I then tested it at both ends to see what the value was. Obviously when the switch is rotated to interior light position, its brightest setting, it has no real resistance, so let's call that 0. Anyone care to guess what it was at the dimmest setting? (This is me, asking what it is supposed to be, because I got 12 ohms).
  9. Cantedvalve

    Turn Signal Side Markers... question

    Hehehe.... bolt and butt... I did drill out the rivets. Looks like they are 1/8" x 7/16". I got the contact areas cleaned up, regreased, and reassembled. Works much snoother now.
  10. Cantedvalve

    Turn Signal Side Markers... question

    I dunno… but its nasty. Speaking of nasty, I pulled the headlight switch, and it tests out okay (I think... got a new multimeter). I want to clean it up and lube it... but don't see an easy way to disassemble it. I assume I have to just make due with the way it is? Anything I shouldn't spray on it cleaner-wise? Brake cleaner bad?
  11. Cantedvalve

    Turn Signal Side Markers... question

    And just for fun, here are my side marker lights, turn signal on and off. I did try putting an LED bulb in each socket... didn’t get any brighter. I did find that, even though the front one lights up, the socket is a horrible mess... it’s almost like it’s oozing green puss. So I have that to replace...
  12. Cantedvalve

    Turn Signal Side Markers... question

    I found a bad wire on the passenger side parking lamp... well, not sure it’s a bad wire as much as the contact isn’t making contact with the bulb. At going back on the glitch list. Speaking of glitches, my gauges didn’t work. Also, it appears that my circuit card is shot... my left turn signal indicator was intermittently lighting up on its own today. So I’m gonna scrap the card and hard wire the cluster. I don’t have all the exact wire colors, but enough close to make it work. So far I have the gauges wires, up, but since I do t have the bulb sockets yet, I haven’t been able to do much more than 4 wires. Still, it’s something...
  13. Cantedvalve

    Turn Signal Side Markers... question

    You have all the facts. Nothing has been modified. The only wild card is that the gauge panel isn’t in the car. So I am putting that back in today to see if it changes things (and to test the gauges).
  14. Cantedvalve

    Turn Signal Side Markers... question

    70. Sorry, you can’t see it under my butt in my profile pixture
  15. Cantedvalve

    Turn Signal Side Markers... question

    On to me is 100% bright. In this case, dim is around 5-10% brightness. My understanding of the whole thing was, when the exterior lights are on and no turn signal, that the side marker lights are both on 100%. When the turn signal starts, then it dims and brightens opposite the parking lamps under the grille. The second part of that is working. The turn signal works as intended. It’s the “no turn signal but lights are on” that I get the dim bulb. I’m still looking into it. To be honest, im not sure it ever worked the way I expected it to... which is why im asking.
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