aslanefe

I am planning to use J-B Weld Marine Weld to fill in the corroded areas of the front header on my 70 vert. Will spot sand blast to clean and get rid of all corrosion, fill them in high then file/sand it.

Even with Dakota digital gauges, I would check with infrared thermometer to make sure the gauge and sender are working properly; what if the previous owner used the wrong sender. Also, is the sender for Dakota digital installed on factory location?

How about running a wire from under S terminal to inside, and an other wire from battery + to inside. Connect a switch to the ends of the wires. Turn the key to start, if starter does not engage, do not let the key off but press the switch you just rigged up. If the engine turns over, the battery, starter and selonoid are fine.

Going from my old memory, you can undo the NSS connector at firewall and put a jumper on firewall side of the connector to bypass NSS. There are 4 wires on that connector, 2 for NSS, 2 for reverse. Can't remember the wire colors for NSS that needs to be jumped on firewall side of connector. Also, I have opened and cleaned the original ignition switches of my 69 and 70s before and used them with success.

As Eastyorkstang mentioned above, are you saying it is running hot just by looking at factory temp gauge? If so, I would get an infrared thermometer for $10-20 and measure the engine temp with it before buying a new radiator.

Thanks for the pictures; how much clearance to frame rails do you have when the steering is at full turn? Also, how much clearance to upper control arm? The reason I am asking is, I found some new 245/60/15 tires for a real good price and was thinking of buying them for all 4 corners of my 70 Grande if they fit to fronts.

Ethanol eats a lot of stuff.

Hi Jay, how would 245/60/15 fit on front with your rim, do you have ample clearance with 235s?

Just my experience; I have been using CJ Pony and NPD for a long time and have not had any problems with either of them. Any problems with my orders have been handled to my satisfaction from both and have a lot of stuff with minor damage replaced by CJ and was told to keep the damaged parts which could be repaired with not a lot of effort. Did not have any problems returning an item because of fitment issues either from both vendors. Have a stash of parts bought from CJ sales events for my projects waiting in line to be restored at half off may be more compared to prices of other vendors.

And ditching the factory suspension is up to you, I am happy with my factory set up modified for more caster, 1" drop and roller spring perches on my daily driver.

My 69 fastback is factory 351W and 70 Cougar is 351C. Same apron/shock tower as my 69 and 70 car with 302. Just the shock tower brace is different, and it does not interfere between 302 and 351.

What size radiator do you have, 20" or 24". And do you have a fan shroud? I use a 24" original radiator with original shroud and 17" fan with clutch and do not have overheating issues with AC on using 190 thermostat on my 302 but I do not get stuck in traffic for hours.

I searched the forum and found folks using 275/60 R15 tires on 15x10 inches wheels with 5 inch backspacing on rear of a fastback or coupe without cutting the axle stops and without rolling/trimming the fender lip.,Anybody know if 295/50 R15 works on same wheel without any cutting, rolling, hammering the inner fender etc and without any rubbing? Rear end is original length, and have original leaf springs.

Good news, wish her speedy recovery.

Where are you moving to, Cali?

My fan with clutch is about 17 inches. I have some info and pictures of the shroud in this thread.

As afr as I know, both pitman and idler arms are different between power and non-power steering.

Can't remember which one goes on which side but if you put them on and the bottom does not sit flush, swap them around.

Looks good, but why do you have a factory manifold flange on pass side and a V-band clamp on driver side way back close to X-pipe?

As far as I remember, hazards also cancel like turn signals when you turn the wheel. So it is working as intended.

I have rectangular ones on lower opening on my 70 Grande like you did on the second photo. Works good and very difficult to notice them unless they are on.

Rich, you sent the right parts to right people. It's all good on my side and I believe on Bob's side too.

Bob, that would be a short term fix and start to leak again eventually. He might as well spend a few more hours and do a permenant fix when he already has the top section removed. The damage on the pictures is nothing compared to the cowl damages I have seen/repaired.

If it was me, I would patch it and save my $ for other stuff. It is not an area that is seen when top of cowl is nstalled so it will be practice on metal work/welding for a newbie restorer.

Terry, if you buy the sprayer I linked, Iet me know after you are done with it; I may stop by when I am in Atlanta and buy it from you.