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About gnatsum

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    Mustang Owner

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  1. Thanks. I went back and checked the wire diameter is a little bit bigger on the older springs. The number of coils is the same.
  2. One more question: I removed one of the coil springs and after decompressing it, I compared it to the replacement spring I bought from CJ Pony Parts. The new spring is about 3/4” longer (and almost one full coil longer) than the original. Note that the springs I bought are for a small block. The original engine was a BB 390 but it was removed by the previous owner. After I bought the car I installed a SB 351W. The old springs appear to be original since all of the other suspension parts also look untouched. The spring pitch is the same on both coils. Thoughts?
  3. Hello everyone. I am replacing the front suspension on my 1969 Mustang Mach 1 using all stock replacement style parts. I would like to do the Shelby drop and lower the upper control arms by 1 inch. My question is - can this be done using all stock style parts? Or will any of the other components need to be modified or changed? Also, will this cause any clearance issues with the tires? I am using 14x7 Magnum rims with 225x70x14 Cooper Cobra radial tires. One last question: how dangerous is it to remove and reinstall the coil springs? I have heard stories but it seems like it shouldn’t be too difficult if you are careful. Thanks for your help!
  4. I totally need new quarterpanels
  5. Here is a photo of the front tire nearly touching the arm. Is this enough gap?
  6. Also, can anyone tell me why the rear wheels appear to be not centered in the wheel well? The quarters and wheel lips had some amateur bodywork before I bought the car many years ago, so maybe that isn't helping. FYI, the wheelbase checks out at an even 108" on both sides. Could it have something to do with the leaf springs and the rusty rear torque boxes?
  7. I just installed 14x7 Magnum 500's with 225/70-14 Cooper Cobra Radial G/T tires on my 69 Mach, front and rear. The suspension is all stock. The inside of the front tires only have about 1/4" to 3/8" clearance to the arm. Not sure if the tires will rub the arm while driving. Does anyone have any experience with this? Hopefully that little bit of clearance is enough. Thoughts? Should I get a set of spacers? Thanks.
  8. Ok thanks. I'll let it run a while.
  9. I have a project car 69 Mach with a 351W from an 87 Bronco, and a C6 from an early 80s van. The shifter goes through the gears fine but it won't change gears. I have never run the engine and transmission combination yet, since this is a new build. The engine starts and idles just fine, however the transmission doesn't even sound like it's shifting into gear. I initially put about 7 quarts of transmission fluid into the transmission, then checked the dipstick which was pretty full. I assume you have to run the engine for a while in order to distribute the fluid into the transmission? I obviously still have at least 3 or 4 quarts of transmission fluid yet to add. I have run the engine for a few minutes here and there, however since I do not have the full exhaust on, I am hesitant to keep running it. I do have long tube headers on so I think it should be fine to run it longer if needed. Can anyone tell me how long I need to run it in order to disperse the transmission fluid enough so that I can add the remaining fluid in? Or are there any other thoughts on this issue?
  10. Good stuff, thanks. So if the 12v coil wire is not what I need to send the ignition signal to the MSD, where would I get the 12v ignition circuit from? Would I run a 12v ignition switched accessory circuit from the under-dash fuse panel?
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