Jump to content

aslanefe

Members
  • Content Count

    837
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    18

Everything posted by aslanefe

  1. aslanefe

    I blame RPM

    Yes, I also say it was RPM.
  2. I welded the minor cracks it had on bolt tabs and it seems to be working fine. If it does not hold up and let go, I'll let you know.
  3. This is what I would do; get some nuts with the correct thread. Then use a small file and make channels inside them like a die would have (basically make a die out of the nut). Then use it as a tap. As the nuts are smaller than a die, they will not hit the sides of the channels.
  4. One advice from me; build more than what you think you need. Built a 54X42 over 10 years ago as my 16x20 shop was getting small; looked like this. Now it looks like this.
  5. As far as I remember, the hose from the power bleeder sticks out a little bit from the adapter/cap. So when you remove the pressure from the bleeder, some fluid moves from master to bleeder and the fluid level in the master drops below the cap level which eliminates spill when adapter is removed from master. But if you remove the adapter while bleeder is still pressurized, you will make a mess.
  6. I modified bleeder screws by soldering the side hole shut and drilling the straight hole all the way through. Put them on to side I am bleeding and connect the vacuum, this way there is no chance of sucking air through bleeder while vacuum bleeding. After bleeding one side, I replace the modified bleeder screw with a regular bleeder before I proceed to next corner.
  7. Don't know the answer. but the PNs I have on a 69 Mustang with 302 are C6OE-6431-F for driver side and C6OE-6430-F for passenger side exhaust manifold.
  8. Disregard, looks like welding the crack worked; time will tell how long it will last due to constant heating and cooling.
  9. Looking for left side factory exhaust manifold for a 1969 302.
  10. Thanks Randy, as I stated before, he is not worried about concours etc; just worried about functioning right without causing any issues.
  11. Randy, this is not a concourse car, he is not worried about color etc and just needs one to replace his failed one. So the available Motorcraft ones eventhough they are not listed for cars with generators will work on his car with generator and not cause a problems like melting wiring etc; am I correct?
  12. By the way, I am asking this for a friend; really.
  13. While talking about solenoids, what is different on the solenoid for a 64.5 with "generator" if there is a difference? Most vendors show different solenoid part numbers for cars with generator versus alternator and they list alternator as they can use the solenoid for generator cars, but for generator cars they do not show other solenoids as alternate. For example rockauto shows only one solenoid for 64.5 but 6 different ones for 69 and one of them is the one listed for 64.5.
  14. As they were with your cowl panel hardware, they go under the cowl panel where the rubber bumps are at both ends to level the cowl with fender. Put them between cowl panel and cowl before you tighten the rubber bumper screw (screw goes through the opening of shim). My 69 Grande have those to align the cowl panel.
  15. Not really, there are shaft style radios with CD changer controls, like Kenwood KRC3600; BT can be added to those too.
  16. On to next hurdle then,; yes it is tedious work to get the W/S right, have it last and not let go real soon. I usually wait for a day that I am real calm to do the door W/S, feels like it is a lot easier to put a back glass on a coupe all by myself than doing door W/S.
  17. Here is mine. No cutting of dash or bezel, has AM/FM radio, cassette, Bluetooth and Aux input.
  18. I don't think fan can be recored .
  19. I was expecting an online Zoom video conferencing car show.
  20. Here is one, but wants a lot for it.
  21. An other option is to send messages to people selling 1969 Mustang and Cougar parts on eBay and ask them if they have the part you are looking for. By looking at the sellers listed parts or store, you can have a good idea who are parting cars. They may have the part you need but not listed as that is a part with no demand.
  22. Welcome to the forum. You need the retainer/spacer to be able to install the switch, no way around it. You may find them on eBay, someone on the forum may have an extra or you can buy a used one from WCCC when they have them in stock. This is the link for retainer at WCCC. Call them and ask even it shows out of stock.
  23. I think I have seen kits that use original holes, vents and the original control panel (by modifying inside to remove cables and installing switches). If your car was A/C equipped (already have the vents, control panel etc) and you only need the A/C box, I believe vintage air and/or classic auto air has a box that will replace the original; worth checking.
  24. John, Marking the door and W/S are pictures 1 and 2. Mark with reference points every 10-15 inches after you install the screws at the ends of the W/S. Also mark the door perimeter where W/S is going to be, I used red thick sharpie so it is visible for pictures (use thin sharpie for actual work). then remove the W/S screw at the front of the door. Pictures 3 and 4; the masking tape is where you put glue on W/S and door. Dashed lines on W/S and door are 90 degree corners. With W/S screws installed at the aft end of the door, put glue 10-15 inches (between your reference lines you put on W/S and door in pictures 1 and 2). When glue is tacked, start pressing the W/S 90 degree to door 90 degree first, then face 1 (which is the narrower side of the 2 faces), then press the face 2. Getting the 90s on W/S and door to match good is the key. Also, make sure your reference marks on W/S and door match closely while you are joining the W/S to door, if not you will end up with access or be short on W/S when you get to the other end. I use 3M 08008 black W/S glue as in my experience it holds stronger than yellow 3M glue but it is less forgiving if you misalign and have to remove to reposition. Don't mind the old W/S residue on the door, it was hard and going to take too much effort to clean just for pictures.
×
×
  • Create New...