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Everything posted by aslanefe

  1. I see that how short the distance between 2 plugs, I also see that your 2 prong plug is longer and goes to outside light; what I am pointing is that your harness does not look like original 1969 harness or it has been modified.
  2. Do you have a connecter where it is marked on your photo below? That is the connector that is on my first photo. When you disconnect that connector, the two plugs (together) that go to lights will seperate from main harness.
  3. An other thing, the plug with 3 wires goes to outside light, the one with 2 goes to inside, they are reversed on your pictures.
  4. Do you see the connector marked on the first picture I posted? I don't see that on your harness. Pictures I posted are from an original 69 harness. You can unplug that connector and remove the fender extension with lights and harness attached to bulbs. May be someone removed the connector and shortened your wires.
  5. Below shows how the wires run from the radiator support to both lights. On one picture the harness connector is marked, other shows the points the harness is clipped on to headlight bucket. Same for both right and left side lights. It is easier to mount the headlights and harness to fender extension first, then install the extension to fender, then hook up the connector on first picture.
  6. Billy, see my suggestion on your post in technical section.
  7. Hi mate, I just looked at my 70 vert and 70 coupe and I believe 69/70 vert filler deck can be modified to work on a coupe. As both vert and coupe use the same trunk lid, the aft edge and sides should be the same on both panels. Only difference is at the front edge and you can turn the vert edge down or cut and add a section to the front edge to match the coupe. If you have a good metal guy in your area (or if you are good at metal work), it can be done with relative ease if you can't find a donor car. But usually donor cars would have been sitting out in the elements and that area holds water and rot away unless the car was kept out of the elements. Can post pictures of the front edge on my 70 vert and coupe if you need.
  8. I would lower the glass 1/4" to 1/2" and close the door. Then make sure the glass is aligned so the top edge of the glass is paralell to the top/roof, aft edge is parallel to the quarter glass/trim and front edge of glass is parallel to the A pillar. Also, the glass stops at the back and front of the door affect how the glass stays parallel to top and A pillar when the window is all the way up. You know the C channel brackets that rides on the vertical runs which the glass is attached to; if you put a plastic shim between that and the glass under the "top bolt" that attaches the C channel to glass, you will move the top of the glass inward. If you put the shim between the C channel and glass under the "bottom bolt", you will move the top of the glass out board. As you have bolt in glass, be careful tightening those bolts and use a plastic shim instead of metal. Try the shim method on the front to pull the top of the glass out at the front, small shim make big a difference versus pulling/pushing the bottom of the vertical run because of the difference in leverage between the bolts and top of the glass.
  9. I believe there are different size rim (and tires) of doughnut spares for different vehicles. And different bolt patterns and hub diameters. May be you need a trip to a junk yard.
  10. According to my measurements of a 69 non-power brake pedal and 70 power brake pedal (shouldn't matter but both for auto transmission cars) and calculations, non-power pedal ratio is about 6 to 1, and power is about 3 to 1. I am not sure if someone makes a 6.25 to 1 pedal that fits a 69 Mustang but a stock non-power brake pedal should work for you. I went from non-power drum to power disk on one of my 69s couple years ago; if I am not forgetting something, I replaced the non-power pedal with a power pedal that came with the kit, enlarged the hole on firewall to install the booster/master. So you may have to install a block off plate to cover the hole I had to enlarge when you remove the booster. Also, you have to install a residual pressure valve on your rear lines if you have drums on rear and Wilwood master does not have a built in pressure valve.
  11. I asked for pictures because I wanted to make sure I understood your problem correctly; if I did, what I did should work for bolt-in glass too.
  12. jj, I bought a 1970 Grande couple months ago that came with a doughnut spare on one side of the rear axle (as the tire on the matching wheel is not holding air). It is a 16 incher and stamped USA on it. Do not know what vehicle it is from and have not found a part number on it with a quick look. I tried that on the front of the car which has factory disc brakes and it clears the caliper etc. The hub diameter is a little bigger (about 1/8"-1/4" bigger) but the lug patterns fits. So, there is a doughnut spare from a newer vehicle which is USA made that fits 1970 with factory disc brakes, but I do not know which vehicle it is from (yet).
  13. Are your door glasses bolt-on or glued? Early 70's had glued door glass (my 70 vert has glued door glass). I can offer you a suggestion (which I had success with) that may work which does not require modifying the vertical runs if you tell me if your glass is bolt-on or glued and post some pictures.
  14. You can adjust with eccentric, and if you run out of eccentric adjustment, you can shim upper control arm.
  15. Can you post some pictures? Top front, top rear of glass rolled up (both door and quarter glass), door closed, door almost closed etc?
  16. That is supposed to rub/hit on top outside edge of the rocker panel and stop dirt/mud getting on top side of the rocker. Waiting for the paint to harden more is a good idea.
  17. Wonder how many people got the "air horn" option and what it looked like.
  18. As far as I remember, the way you installed is correct, no metal reinforcement or glue.
  19. Does anybody have a non-working original (not repro) fuel sender for 69 or 70 they would like to part with? Need one to experiment and see if I can rebuild it and have it read nonlinear like the originals do.
  20. On 70 dash with tach, the parking brake light is in the gauge. Don't have a 69 with dash so not sure where it is on 69 with tach. On one of my 69s with no tach, I connected the parking brake switch to the brake warning light, so it lights up when the parking brake is engaged. Same light also lights up as brake warning light. I used the parking brake light switch I reproduce. Have pictures of the switch I reproduce on how to section.
  21. According to PPG color chart for 1969 Mustang, 2 letter or number paint code is for 2 tone combination; in your case lower color is new lime (code 2), upper is sage brown (code 5).
  22. Those tabs line up/hold the edge of weather strip the way they are, they do not get bent over.
  23. The front end overlaps on top of the roof weatherstrip on the A pillar and presses on the "wedge" section at the end of the roof weatherstrip when the door is closed.
  24. Did you see this thread? There are some pictures and explanations in there, and below is a picture of the front end on one of my cars (driver's side door) with original/factory door and weatherstrip.
  25. If you are looking for deluxe door panels, check NPD also. They list one brand as good repro, other as best repro. I remember Rick (owner of NPD) posting on an other forum comparison of 2 brands he sells (and Mustang market ones he used to sell) to original panels on his personal very low milleage car. If NPD has a listings from different manufacturers for a part, usually the description tells you what the difference between those are.
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