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Everything posted by aslanefe

  1. After you turn the car off, if the booster is not leaking, you will have softer brakes if you brake 2-3 more times due to the vacuum saved in the booster. With 2-3 more brake applications, booster will consume the saved vacuum and you will have harder (no vacuum boosted) brake. Does not matter if the engine is on or off for bleeding the brakes. If you do not hear a hissing when you remove the vacuum hose from the booster after turning the engine off, I would think that you have a leaking booster which needs to be replaced or repaired. There may be brake specialists that can rebuild boosters in Italy.
  2. If you run the brake line inside the tunnel like Ford did when they built the car, it will be away from the exhaust and there won't be any issues. If you keep the line like you have now, your exhaust may boil your brake fluid. Only way to know for sure is to measure the temperature of the line when the exhaust is hot to see if the temperature gets to your brake fluid's boiling temp or not.
  3. Looking at the number (C7ZB-6510182-A) on the photo Casey sent me and number on a picture of NOS 68 molding I found on the net, 67-68 clip is the same as 70 Grande clip. Although it will not have the correct profile, one can put vinyl tape on 67-68 molding and use it on a 70 Grande if the length of both are close. I might go that route instead of making from scratch. Thanks for all the info fellows.
  4. Thanks in advance. I believe the clips are not 70 Grande specific, as far as I remember they are used in other Ford vehicles (70 Cougar is one of them I think). https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/c9wb-6510182-a.html, https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/fc-392tc.html I remember seeing NOS clips sold but can't remember the name of the vendor. I think it was the place where @v8ford70 bought the rear window moulding clips from.
  5. If the original rod broke and the one you made is bent, I think there is something wrong with the booster that is causing the rod to bind and bend.
  6. @Caseyrhe or @v8ford70, if you have not installed the rocker mouldings, can you take some pictures and dimensions for me so I can fabricate a set from stainless for my car when/if I source the plastic attaching clips for them?
  7. Just FYI, by sanding the aluminum trim you will remove the hard anodize coating which keeps the trim bright. You can polish it and make it shinny but it will corrode and dull soon unless you have them anodized again or apply clear coat.
  8. 70 Grande seats are high back, only difference is, the middle inserts are hounds tooth cloth instead of vinyl. Very comfy, your butt is not cold in winter and sweaty in summer like vinyl inserts.They reproduce the 70 Grande upholstery in black and ginger. This is the link to 70 Grande upholstery. The 69 Grande seats are low back with head rest with cloth inserts. They do not reproduce 70 Grande rocker mouldings (not a lot of Grandes built). They are 70 Grande only and very different, it is 3-4 inches wide like 70 Cougar moulding with blacked out middle part (it looks like it has rubber strip on it) I have not seen the rocker moulding in person (mine was/is missing), seen only pictures of them on Ford advertisement documents. You have to find a used set (which I have not seen on fleabay) or find some one who can make a set. I believe originals are made from aluminum. May be @v8ford70 has his rocker mouldings and post some pictures and give more info about them.
  9. Did you check to see if the catch locks twice? Might be that it locks once and not twice causing the gap.
  10. I would think that you need 2 holes for heater hose from the engine to ac unit and 2 holes for the ac lines from the compressor to ac unit. Or just one big hole for all 4 hoses/lines.
  11. As far as I know, for the same vehicle and calipers, manual mc will have a smaller bore than power mc. It is harder to push a larger bore mc without the help of the booster.
  12. Yes, it just slides under the moulding and the moulding clip is bent such a way that it pushes the panel tight to the stainless trim. You do not have to pay $ for those pads. They are closed cell dense foam/rubber, like the kind used to protect corners of parts during shipping. I used some from a package I got to make my own.
  13. You can use that connection if you install a lighted shifter knob.
  14. Isn't that a Grande? My 70 Grande has the Landau top too. Just FYI, as far as I know the tail light panel is black between the chrome strips and I think that will look good with your blacked hood. I like the Grande upholstery as it has cloth inserts instead of vinyl.
  15. If you search for cowl attaching hardware at supplier websites, you can see the blocks of sponge/rubber, but I have not seen the plastic rattle eliminators listed.
  16. It has been a while since last time I removed and reinstalled one, as far as I remember there are 2 blocks of spunge/rubber pads that sit between the removable cowl and the cowl under it. They are located at the right and left ends of the removable cowl. Also, I think there are small plastic clip/spacer things at the aft edge of the cowl (to eliminate rattle) where it fits snug between the windshield trim and the brackets that hold the trim.
  17. Is this what you are asking about? Make sure it has the right thread.
  18. I think you will be fine, if there was a leak your fluid level would drop real quick.
  19. Where is it leaking from? Looking at the picture, there was some flow through the bowl on the front side.
  20. While you are working on brakes, I would replace the fluid (the whole system, lines MC etc) if it has been over a few years since last replacement.
  21. I don't think you need a washer to center the rod.
  22. Well, you do not need a new MC after all. Make sure you have the rod length adjusted correctly, there are dimensions on the net on how much gap you need between the rod and the piston.
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