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Corrosion, wear and tear. You can sand the contacts etc and make it serviceable again.

What Jimlay posted is 71-73 switch. But the repro 71-73 switch I bought did not last. You can open your original 1970 switch and usually repair/clean it and it will last longer.

Website getting locked due to exceeding bandwidth might have deterred some folks.

Do you happen to have the left side bracket also? If Ed does not want it, I can use both sides for a conversion from 6 to 8 cylinder.

Are you using your original Ford pump or did you install a Saginaw pump?

As far as I know, the valve is supported by the hoses; no hard attachments. Brand shouldn't matter if inlet and outlet diameters match to the hose; all it does is close the hot coolant to heater core when AC is on.

Heater hoses go from the heater core to engine. So, on the engine side all you would need are hoses and clamps; if your vacuum activated cut off valve is not working, then a new valve. The hose from heater core to valve is an S shaped hose you have to get from a Mustang parts vendor; other hoses are cut to length hoses you can get from any parts store.

Spoke too soon I guess. :(

I do not have any at the moment. Will print some in a few weeks when I have the printer set up if you can wait.

Sorry, I do not have a 69 car with factory parking brake warning light. I bet Midlife knows where the bullet connector is attached to.

Not sure how they were originally wired, but I connect them to brake master cylinder switch wire in parallel on the inside of the firewall. If the master cylinder goes bad or if the parking brake is engaged, the "Brake" light in instrument cluster comes on.

Looks like Ben made some progress; no bots lately.

I have been using that gas cap lock on one of my cars for years, it stopped people from playing with my gas cap, trying to steal it etc.

Looks like we need a mod in Russia.

That is great news Ben.

69 rocker panel molding is aluminum, not stainless. It is bright dipped anodized (as far as I remember). It has to be stripped then anodized again after it is buffed/polished. If not anodized, it will dull. Buffing usually do not remove the anodization as it is a hard coating. Buffing the anodized part will make it a little shinier but not as shiny as original. The repro ones are okay, they are made from softer material but anodized. You need to deburr the ends so it won't scratch your paint, may need to grind the ends to fit the fenders better etc and the hole for the screw at the aft end of the right side may need to be tweaked. I was missing the left side molding on my 69 Grande so I used a repro set with above work, can't remember if it was from NPD but am happy with it.

A small bucket, some plywood, masking tape and tin sheet.

See my post from April 22, 2021 on this link for couple ideas. https://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/48584-what-did-you-do-tofor-your-mustang-today/page/86/&tab=comments#comment-317302

Brian, the bolt that goes through the valance to the fender extension on top right of the above picture missed the clip nut.

70 vert quarter panels and quarter extensions are different that 69 coupe, 69 vert and 70 coupe quarter panels and quarter extensions. Vic's quarter panel and quarter extension is correct for a 70 vert. 70 vert quarters and quarter extensions have the body line behind the wheel (like 69 vert and coupe quarter panel and extension), 70 coupes have smooth quarter (without body line) and matching quarter extension. 69 vert quarter panel and quarter extension is same as 69 coupe quarter panel and quarter extension with the recess for the molding in front of the wheel on the quarter panel; 70 vert and coupe quarters do not have the recess for the molding in front of the wheel. 70 coupe quarter panels are not reproduced, they sell the 70 vert repro quarters as 70 coupe quarters (which is not the same).

As far as I remember, you can install "that switch" without removing the shifter lever.

That is why I said "that switch" :)

https://bcbroncos.com/shop/drivetrain/auto-trans/21-52041-c4-neutral-safety-switch/ See the photo at the link above for location of that switch.

You do not need to remove the shift handle to install that switch, it is installed on the transmission over the shift shaft.

Sorry to hear about Annie and Suzy.