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aslanefe

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Everything posted by aslanefe

  1. aslanefe

    Ignition key light bulb

    Below is how you can contact Midlife. http://midlifeharness.com/welcome.html
  2. aslanefe

    Turn Signal Side Markers... question

    Never mind, looks like 70 switch is riveted instead of bent tabs. You can always drill out the rivet and install new ones or bolt and but.
  3. aslanefe

    Turn Signal Side Markers... question

    You have to straighten the metal tabs to disassemble the switch.
  4. aslanefe

    Craig from New Zealand

    They are not as wide as they used to be. The manufacturer of the material is making them narrower for the last few years, because of that it does not touch the glass on some cars no matter how you adjust the glass or the runs without bending, cutting rewelding etc of the run and or top of the door frame where the run is mounted to. I think the more expensive ones (can't remember the brand) use the same manufacturer as their felts are the same dimension as Repops.
  5. aslanefe

    Craig from New Zealand

    Have you installed the door outside window felts yet?.Are you going to use Repops brand felt?
  6. aslanefe

    Craig from New Zealand

    They drive on the wrong side in New Zealand. If the car is going to be registered and driven there, you may want to look for UK spec headlights.
  7. Does anyone know what the brake pressure specs are for front disk, front drum, rear drum, with booster and without booster for 69 and 70?
  8. aslanefe

    Brake pressure specs

    Pedal is firm and does not go in all the way (except while bleeding); so I do not think there is air in the system. It stops good. Rears don't lock up under normal pedal pressure. It locks up when I brake real hard. Adjustable valve in the rear line will reduce the pressure to rear so they lock up later but in my case looks like I need more pressure to fronts as my problem is fronts not locking up at all. The reason why I was asking for pressure values for rear and front was to see if my pressures are comparable or not. If they are, then I would suspect that the pads I have are the source for not being able to lock the fronts.
  9. aslanefe

    Brake pressure specs

    I have a GM style prop valve/distribution block. Did not drive it without booster, but with booster nose dives down first then rears lock up; fronts do not. When going in reverse, the fronts lock up, rears don't. I can't bench press 400 lbs anymore, that's why I went with power booster. I would think that prop valve is working as I get more pressure to the fronts (1400 psi fronts, 1000 psi rears with booster). If it matters, the brake warning light on dash comes on while bleeding the brakes and goes out after bleeding and applying the brake once or twice.
  10. aslanefe

    Brake pressure specs

    I know the pressure depends on how strong the person pressing the pedal is. I get about 700 psi to front (with early style 4 piston calipers), 600 to rear drums with a 1 inch MC with no vacuum to the booster. And about 1400 psi to front and 1000 psi to rear with 18-20 inch vacuum. The MC, calipers and booster are not original 69 equipment, pedal is power brake pedal hang high. I was trying to see if the pressures I have are in acceptable range as the rears would lock but not the fronts. Fronts have new pads, rotors; rears have new shoes and original drums that look very clean and true. Shoes are Wagner Z151R, no idea on the pads as they came with the kit and I did not see any markings on them.
  11. aslanefe

    What did you do to/for your Mustang today?

    You know that they need to be set for right hand or left hand thread before use, right?
  12. aslanefe

    What did you do to/for your Mustang today?

    I use the impact driver I linked for screws for the door striker plate etc, not for a bolt. One or two hits with a hammer on it with right bit and right setting brakes rusted screws loose. Works on Phillips head screws that are rounded also.
  13. aslanefe

    What did you do to/for your Mustang today?

    I have an impact driver like this https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2910-2-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPUJYE/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_469_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XTJ6XKY7Q966KNGD8Z32 Mine is an older different brand. Works great on stuck screws if you know how to use it properly; you have to adjust it right for it to work and you need the right bit that fits perfect to the head of the screw. I recommend a tool like that to anybody that is taking apart a 50 years old car.
  14. aslanefe

    69 Stang Cowl Clean Up

    If you get some wire brushes that are metal (usually used to clean welds) you can bend them and reach around the hat to clean and knock of most of the rust. You can also weld a piece of rod to them and make the handle longer. With a longer handle, you can bend the brush to a U shape and go in from inside the car (through the hat) to reach outboard edges. I use my boroscope (and mirror sometimes) to see which areas I cleaned, which areas need more brushing.. I even MIG welded a patch in that area through the top opening with the help of a mirror. When the engine is out, get inside the engine compartment for better access through top. Drivers side is easy, there is no hat in there on 69 and 70s so you can reach all the way with a straight brush when you remove the wiper motor. Your suggestion is also an option, but the damage in your pictures can be seen from the top opening and from inside with the help of a mirror, so cutting it open just to see if there is damage is unnecessary (at least for me). You can get creative with a paint brush and modify it to apply your ospho to treat the rust and apply epoxy. To fix the damage that are seen on your pictures of an earlier car (looks like a 66 I fixed by opening the ends), I have done that couple times and on an other case I cut a section from the top of the panel about 2 inches forward of the windshield and around instead of remowing the windshield, drilling out the spot welds and removing the top part of the cowl ( then welded it back after repair) but that car had a lot of damage on both sides.
  15. aslanefe

    69 Stang Cowl Clean Up

    I would use a wire brush to clean first, as far as I can reach from the opening on top and from the heater hole. Then treat it with ospho or other rust convertor. Run water from a hose to check for leak. If no leaks, brush some epoxy, then spray rubberized coating. They have some cans that come with a piece of hose and a nozzle at the end that sprays out radially, that should get the rubberized coating to hard to reach areas.
  16. aslanefe

    Heater bypass help

    You do not have to cap off the heater core. Just run a hose from the water pump to intake.
  17. aslanefe

    69 coupe from SVK

    Way to go, good job.
  18. aslanefe

    Car Mounted on Rotisserie. Questions?

    If the car is stripped (no engine, trans, rear end etc). I don't think there will be a measurable amount of flex (unless the car is a rust bucket).
  19. Wasted some time today and learned something. May be it will help someone later on. 69, non-tach dash, converted to early 4 piston disc with a kit using original spindles. The brake warning switch that came with the kit is one wire, original switch on original drum/drum manual distribution block was 2 wire switch. Did not hook up the switch because I was going to figure out which one of the original wires I had to hook up to the new switch and turned the key to start and the brake warning light did not come on. During start the ignition sends a proof out to brake warning light and lights it up (light goes out when the car starts if no brake fluid leak on one of the lines to wheels). I had added a wire to pin 6 of instrument cluster and ran it towards the parking brake as I was planning to make a parking brake switch (using 3D print and berillium copper) and have my brake warning light come on when the parking brake is engaged. Grounded that wire as if parking brake is engaged and the light came on. Chased the proof out wire from the ignition switch (purple wire) to find out where it connects to the purple wire that goes to pin 6. Could not find the joint. The wire goes all the way to firewall connector, then to brake warning switch. The other wire from the switch goes to pin 6. I had checked continuity of the switch a few weeks ago and the switch was closed. As my brake fluids had leaked I thought the switch froze on closed position. When a switch has 2 wires going to it, usually it is a normally open or normally closed switch. The proof out wire had to be connected to pin 6 somewhere and I had followed the wire except about a foot of the harness. Then I realized that the pins of the brake warning switch must be connected inside the switch and it is not a normally open switch; it just contacts to the valve in the distribution block when there is fluid leak and valve moves to one side which grounds the wires sending ground to warning light to light it up. In short, the brake warning switch on a 69 with non-tach dash (don't know others) is not a normally open switch; if you measure between the terminals and see that it is closed, it does not mean it is bad switch. Now I have to wrap the parts of the harness and put everything back together.
  20. aslanefe

    Brake warning switch trivia

    Yes that is an other option. Or you can use the 71-73 switch, both requires you to remove the pedal assy and drill holes at the right spot for the switch. The pedal assy already has the holes for the 69-70 switch and I have a few 69-70 cars with a broken switch or without switch.
  21. aslanefe

    Rust Repair, Lower Rear QTR Panel?

    One more thing, most probably there is rust damage to outer wheel well also. When you cut the quarter out, fix the wheel well first as you will have easier access to wheel well through the hole on quarter.
  22. aslanefe

    Rust Repair, Lower Rear QTR Panel?

    I would cut the rusted area out till I get to good metal first. Then see how much of the patch panel I need. Those patch panels do not have the edges/lines as sharp as the original panels. I found that the complete skins have sharper edges/lines and match to original better even though they are a tad thinner. You can make the edges sharper on the patch panels if you spend some time with hammer and dolly (and some other equipment) or pay a little more and get the bigger quarter panel and cut what you need from that. You will spend a little more $ on a quarter skin but save time and frustration on fixing the edges/lines on that lower patch panel. One other advantage of the quarter skin, you will end up with a bigger left over with a lot of different curves which comes handy to use while fixing other areas like door corners etc.
  23. aslanefe

    Brake warning switch trivia

    Yes I learned the hard way that the switch sends ground when there is pressure differential (which I thought was the only function of it) AND also joins the two wires to send proof out to pin 6. Now I know how to wire the new switch; keep the old switch attached to the harness, attach the wire from the one wire switch to the pin on the end of the old switch and you are done; no cutting of the original connector needed. Yes making a copy of the original 69-70 style switch is on my to do list. I had succesfully made the metal part to fix a broken contact on original switch for my 70 Grande about 25 years ago which still works. I have to make the plastic part that fits to the original mounting holes on the brake pedal assembly to create a switch from scratch. I have a broken switch on my 70 Cougar to use for creating the 3D model; all I need is to find a few hours to create the part, get beryllium copper with right thickness, make the contact part, heat treat, assemble, and test it. I will post it when I make one. Making a properly functioning turn signal cancelling cam replacement is also on my to do list; I know, I have a long to do list. On a side note, I also learned that you do not have to tap into pin 6 behind the cluster like I did to get the brake warning light to come on when parking brake is engaged, you can tap into the purple wire going to pin 6 at the firewall connection.
  24. aslanefe

    1970 Convertible Restoration

    I also use those v-clamps on the exhaust. Makes it easy to get the transmission out when needed.
  25. aslanefe

    Craig from New Zealand

    Have you tought about getting a packed muffler ( not chambered) and shortening it? A little work to cut, modify and weld.
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