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aslanefe

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Everything posted by aslanefe

  1. Can't remember which one goes on which side but if you put them on and the bottom does not sit flush, swap them around.
  2. Looks good, but why do you have a factory manifold flange on pass side and a V-band clamp on driver side way back close to X-pipe?
  3. As far as I remember, hazards also cancel like turn signals when you turn the wheel. So it is working as intended.
  4. I have rectangular ones on lower opening on my 70 Grande like you did on the second photo. Works good and very difficult to notice them unless they are on.
  5. Rich, you sent the right parts to right people. It's all good on my side and I believe on Bob's side too.
  6. Bob, that would be a short term fix and start to leak again eventually. He might as well spend a few more hours and do a permenant fix when he already has the top section removed. The damage on the pictures is nothing compared to the cowl damages I have seen/repaired.
  7. If it was me, I would patch it and save my $ for other stuff. It is not an area that is seen when top of cowl is nstalled so it will be practice on metal work/welding for a newbie restorer.
  8. Terry, if you buy the sprayer I linked, Iet me know after you are done with it; I may stop by when I am in Atlanta and buy it from you.
  9. How about this sprayer? I bet you can remove the tips and use them with a longer tube.
  10. Bob, thanks for the offer. I need 70 mirrors for my 70 vert as it has cheesy plastic aftermarket mirrors on it. Driver's side of the one you bought is not correct for my 70 due to the knob differences (even though 69 fits to 70 door panel, it puts a lot of stress on control cables); but passenger sides are the same.
  11. That looks like 70 knob that is 90 degrees to the cables; are you selling this pair too, if so how much are you asking for them?
  12. The knob is straight, so it is correct for 69.
  13. I put masking tape on bracket (sometimes a few layers of it) and install the original guides over the tape to get a tight fit if still loose after swapping them.
  14. Thanks, if it is 70 style and Bob does not want them for his 69, I'll take them for my 70 vert.
  15. Is the adjustment knob on driver side a 69 or 70 style? Looks like 70 style on the pictures but not very clear.
  16. Go to Wildwood website and put in drum brake spindle for your car and you will see Wildwood conversion options for drum spindles.
  17. Looks like they are drum spindles and someone put a GM caliper with a brachet that attaches it to the drum backing plate bolt holes.
  18. I believe original disk spindles have holes for the caliper bracket. 69 and 70 looks similar but the bearing and tie rods are bigger on all 70 and 69 boss. Post pictures of calipers and how they are attched to the spindle.
  19. Why not put the regulator by the tank so you do not have to run a long return line from the engine compartment to tank?
  20. Are they o rings or seals on the shaft?
  21. You need to do some math based on master cylinder diameter and the leverage of the pedal. Also you need to find a master that when mounted the piston of it is inline with push rod. I believe when you change pedals (power pedal vs non-power pedal) you lower or raise the push rod, so master's cylinder should be inline with the push rod. I do not have a direct answer for you on which master will work with power pedal and no booster as I have not done the research on avaliable master cylinders and the math for your case. Last year I converted my factory all drum non-power 69 Grande to power front disks. Bought a kit from Pirate Jack off eBay that uses early style 4 piston disks that mount to factory 69 spindle. Kit came with power pedal, booster, master cylinder (metal) and GM style combination valve. I have about 3 inches between shock tower and master cylinder. It has a 9 inch booster that is about 4 inches thick (from firewall to master). My car is auto so it works, not the case for your T5 with cable. On my 70 Grande that came with non-power front disks the pedal needed effort to push. I installed a booster from a Fiat without changing the master cylinder and brake pedal that reduced the effort needed to push the pedal. That was about 25 years ago and it still works fine. If I was you, I will go to factory non-power pedal and factory master and be done if you do not want to do the math, research and trial error etc. According to mustangsteve's website, 69 and 70 non-power pedals are the same except the different pads for auto and manual transmission. If you do not have a non power pedal and don't want to spend $ on it I have one I removed from my 69 with auto; send me your pedal, I will switch the pads and send you mine. And I will use your pedal on my 70 vert with auto transmission when I convert it to power brakes.
  22. For factory style, you use power brake pedal if you use a booster. Manual pedal if you do not use a booster. But you can play with master cylinder diameter and use any pedal you want with or without booster. So, master cylinder diameter, booster or without booster and power or manual pedal are all in the same equation, and you have to match all 3 to each other to get desired brake performance; does that make sense? If you increase your master diameter, you have to increase the pedal leverage; if you add booster without changing the master diameter, you can decrease the pedal leverage and have the same pedal hardness as before. But you have to make sure that you have enough pedal travel to push the master piston before your pedal touches the firewall and also make sure you are not bottoming out the master when you only push the pedal an inch or so. Plastic tank or metal tank master does not matter, what is important is the master cylinder diameter and fluid volumes the master pushes to front and rear when brake is applied. Find the right combination of diameter and volume; if it is plastic or metal, it will work.
  23. Looks real nice, did you use Ford tooling bonnet?
  24. Prayimg for you and Sue. Happy to hear promising news.
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