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Everything posted by aslanefe

  1. No weather strip under it, but there is a cloth tape that holds the cables that run in the channel down.
  2. Rimblow buddy that used to restore steering wheels closed down recently and selling everything they have. I have seen photos of original/used wheels they had. Give them a call, they may have a usable wheel or a wheel you can use parts from (like the contact you are missing).
  3. Terry, I believe he has the standard 2 spoke wheel with half circle chrome horn bar for the horn. 69 and 70 3 spoke wheel should be rim blow and 70 2 spoke is press the ends of the pad of 2 spokes to honk. As far as I remember, 69 2 spoke is odd ball in terms of horn switch connections while all 3 spoke rim blows and 70 2 spoke should have similar connections/contacts.
  4. Also, the photos of the hardware that goes through the hole on the tab.
  5. I don't have 69 with two spoke wheel to examine, but I think it can be fixed. If you can post photos of the broken tab and the other side of the wheel where the tab was, may be we can figure out how to fix it. I have an idea but need more photos to see if it will work.
  6. Did you increase your referral bonus? I received $15 from you last week.
  7. My local Harbor Freight has them in store.
  8. Little bugs to work out but atleast it does not need body work and paint (besides the trunk). Check to see if door glasses are glued (and glue still holding), if good, just flip the plastic window guides around instead of replacing them. You will see the wear pattern and figure out how to flip and use the good section of the guides when you remove them. If they are still wobbly, you can put thin plastic or metal spacers under the guides. As far as I know, there is no dedicated power wire in the harness for electrical choke on 69, if you google, you can find ideas on where to get power for the choke (I bet someone will reply to this thread with an answer soon though). Original tail light lenses polish up good (if not messed up real good by someone). Inside of the taillight housings might need a coat of paint.
  9. My T code 1970 Grande had non-power front discs and 5 lugs, I added a Fiat brake booster to make it power. But the car is a T5 (not Mustang), so export cars might have been different.
  10. I think front disc option regardless of engine got 5 lugs. My T code (200 cuin 6) 1970 with front discs has 5 lugs.
  11. I guess it is slow in here as folks like you are busy wrenching :)
  12. The values posted above are book values. Usually engines like more advance. I am running about 18 initial on my stock 1969 302. Are you controlling timing with Sniper? If so, adjustments are done via handheld or laptop. Start with value above, increase it 2 degrees, if not pinging, increase 2 more; keep increasing until it pings, then back of 2 degrees. After you find the initial your engine likes, then adjust the total by testing.
  13. Find a vendor who has "Daniel Carpenter" "original tooling" grill in stock.
  14. You can use 1970 brake pedal on 1969, but the other way around may not be possible. Just have make sure you use power pedal for power brake, non power pedal for non power brake. Difference between manual and auto brake pedals is that the auto has bigger pad.
  15. 01508 should have the place for clutch pedal, non power brake pedal and brake pedal on it. When I converted my non power brake 69 to power brake, I installed the new power pedal to original 01508 after I removed the captive nuts. 1970 pedal has more offset to clear the thicker 1970 steering column.
  16. As far as remember, 01508 for non power brake cars have 4 captive nuts welded on and power brake one does not have captive nuts as the brake booster has studs (which go through the holes where the captive nut are.
  17. 01542 and 015A18 are attached to bracket welded to the cowl and the lower dash on steering column mount area. Just looked and both my 70 vert with factory non-power drum and 70 Grande with factory power disc cars have both of those braces. You can see those 2 braces if/when you remove the dash pad. If your's is missing, I don't think it is necessary for brake conversion.
  18. aslanefe


    Did you try the "Contact" link on the web site?
  19. Bag sealer or similar will heat and flatten the insulation over the wires too. You need something that has voids for the wires. Or heat the end of a needle nose pliers and seal around each wire seperately.
  20. Just an idea, you can use a terminal crimper like This to crimp the end of heat shrink flat over the wires.
  21. Usually those readers read the generic emissions related OBD codes and clear them using free apps; unless specified, they do not read the manufacturer specific codes, ABS etc with the free apps. I have a couple of them I paid about $5 some time ago that I read generic codes and see live data (if vehicle supports it) on vehicles with free apps. Also have a more expensive one and a paid app that reads BMW specific codes. I believe the chip inside them matters depending on the vehicle you will use them. Don't expect much from it eventhough it says "professional" in the description. If it was that good, why would shops pay thousands of dollars for their scanner/readers? With all that, they are still good to have on hand when check engine light comes on.
  22. Looking at the piece you removed, I say it is a match. The clip I posted is from a 76k miles unrestored 1970 Grande which still has the C9 muffler on it.
  23. Greetings to Tampa, welcome to this corner of internet. If you want to know the paint code, take the car to a auto paint supplier so they can scan the color on the car. They should be able to give you the formula and may be also the code if it is catalog color.
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