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MorganLeBlanc

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MorganLeBlanc last won the day on May 19

MorganLeBlanc had the most liked content!

About MorganLeBlanc

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday January 30

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Fresno CA and Reno NV
  • Interests
    Cars, Motorcycles, Fitness and Cycling

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104 profile views
  1. Clean all the related parts.
  2. On to cleaning, sanding and painting engine compartment panels.
  3. Moved onto the support brace a little time in the blast cabinet the hammered it straight and welded up the crack, clean then paint.
  4. Found the tag that was on the wiring. All Ford! Will clean it up and put it back on the harness.
  5. Well how about an update on the 69 Mustang. I am working on replacing the brake lines, to get to those the power booster had to come out. There is no way to make removing a booster a fun job. Once that came out I removed the brake line, and at the point I was wondering this was a good decision? I moved forward and removed the brake lines and this clean and sanded to engine compartment panels. Next I primed and painted the panels. I sanded and painted the booster. Moving onto the front support brace. Clearly damaged wonder how that happened. Thinking a fender bender. But I was able to straighten and weld the cracked metal. Never enough time in the day to do all that needs to be done. Side note; got my Wilton vice finally mounted. I love classic tools.
  6. And here is the finished drive shaft.
  7. I took the shaft down to my friends shop. Mustang Ranch in Fresno has been in business for the past 25 years. Here I am helping Chris press in the u-joint.
  8. Once I removed the rust I primed the shaft, I sprayed it with Eastwood bare metal paint. The stripes are not perfect because they weren't from the factory.
  9. I pulled the drive shaft to remove the brake line. The driveshaft had a heavy coat of surface rust. I removed the u-joints and started the rust removal with my air tool.
  10. Wow it looks fantastic! You have done a great job.
  11. Jam, I am using Eastwood Chassis Black on the smooth surfaces as for under coated areas I am using Summit RAcing Rubberized Undercoating. I will hit any rust first with Eastwood rust encapsulator.
  12. Looks good Rick. I thought the overhead console was just map lights. Where did the rear disc brake kit come from? Down the road I am looking at the open tracker read disc brake kit.
  13. Hi Rick, The oval plates were my idea, just a little more strength while I was doing it as well as a a little more protection. the plates clear everything. the only issue is the grease zerts are blocked by the plates but in 5 minutes I can have the bar off and grease the zerts once a year. thanks for your comments, I appreciate it.
  14. I did more cleaning and sanding before giving the inner passenger side engine compartment a fresh coat of paint. While I was on that side I cleaned and polished the original chrome valve cover as best as I could get it. It will do for now. I also replace the battery cables with the correct cables from AMK. The positive battery clamp appears to be the wrong one because it's to small to fit the post.
  15. I cleaned the front wheel wells. Installed roller spring perched, Grab A Track springs, QA1 adjustable shocks and a larger sway bar.then topped it off with new rotors, calipers, and hawk performance brake pads.
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