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  1. Almost embarrassed to post this one, but I have to admit that I am stumped. Configuration: 302 V8 coupe, mostly stock rebuild upgraded alternator (powermaster ~75A) Original Stock ignition switch & NSS switch Stock voltage regulator Pertronix Ignition / coil New battery as of April this year Thermal choke, stock carb, new original style fuel pump Original harnesses (refurbed by midlife) Strange signature - history of events: Car hasn't been driven much over corona virus days. Fire it up to go see a friend, runs drives fine. Go to leave, solenoid clicks, no-start. Jump it, drive it 20min at highway speeds, no problems, stop at advance auto to check battery (good), asks me to start and it starts fine, run at 2000 rpm for a few min to check charging system (good), turn it off. Discuss, try to start and wont even click solenoid. Had to jump it to go home. At home I check electrical grounds. I have one from battery to chassis (non-stock), another in firewall for starter - both kind of loose, I clean, lube & tighten, but no change. ground from engine block to alternator is tight on both ends. I have noticed that I don't have radio or internal lights or fan box during no-click starts. I have headlights/domelights though. I swap out the solenoid, and no change. Next I dive into fuse block, pull it from wall and clean all fuses, apply anti-corrosion, NO CHANGE. WTF. Is it the starter? Failing to engage? I can jump power to it, but haven't done that yet. If it was that, why does that crank with a jump? Is the pertronix being flaky and shorting out the start circuit somehow? Why is starting circuit intermittent? Is it Neutral Safety switch? Doesn't start if I move to neural or any other gear. Why no radio with key-on? Is the starting switch worn out/mal-adjusted? I am virtually certain there are no fuel, air problems. If I go jump the car everything works. So weird. Help. I suck at electrical stuff, need some help if you have any ideas.
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