Robertaluch

don't know about the drake shocks buy why dont you just buy the gas kyb's?

Kicking myself everyday for the last 30 years for selling my 69 Aculpulco Blue Drag Pack Mach, then finding it 4 years ago, unaffordable of course. The 70 conv came close, but once you've owned a big block Mach, there isn't a comparison in my book. I was able to get a 68 J code coupe at a good price, restore, then flip, in which I finally reached a financial part of my life where I could fulfill my dream of owning another FE 69 Mach 1. I was able to persuade a buddy of mine, after a year, to sell his project to me in April this year. He had owned the car for the past 3 years and had done very little to nothing to it, he had bought it from the second owner where it was dismantled, boxed up, and sat for at least 10 years. The last state inspection was from 1986. The 390 had been rebuilt and never started ,so started there, then the brakes, then the suspension, after many steps forward and a lot more back......she received her new coat of Black Jade, today. I'm going to catch up with a lot of photos to this point, then post as she progresses. I have found this website to be very beneficial along with the pleasure a giving back.
 
Coming home, how she sat for 10 plus years, sanded down

It looks like there are several good options to chose, for going from manual front drum brakes to disc.
 
I'm not too interested in power brakes so I don't need to worry about a booster.
 
that said, are any kits superior than others?  I can't really differentiate what makes one better than another:
 
-chockostang is $700
http://www.chockostangclassicmustang.com/discbrakepowersteering/discbrakeconversions.html
 
-SSBC is $1100
http://ssbrakes.com/i-10093667-1967-1969-ford-mustang-front-non-power-disc-brake-conversion-kit-a121.html
 
-MustangSteve has parts
-Scott Drake (via CJ pony parts) has a kit as well ($700)
 
why would SSBC's kit be $400 more than chockostang?

Hey Guys and Gals, has anyone on this forum heard of Cryogenics? I was talking to a machine shop that mentioned they do this for the engines and the tranny shop they use does this treatment for the gears and mainshafts in the trannys they rebuild. This Cryogenic treatment supposedly changes the molecular striucture of the metal by changing Austenite into Martensite by cold tempering the crankshaft or gears or mainshafts for instance which results in 3 things. 1-strengthens the metal, relieves residual stress in the metal and increases resistance to wear. Has anybody tried this or has any experience with this process.It's approximately $350 for a disassembled trans including case or $500 for a disassembled engine including the block. Just wondering if it works? Or if the results are worth it?

Members are concerned about the Russian invasion and getting unsecured password notices here.

The Cherry Ave .Auto swap meet is this Saturday come on out .I will just be walking through this time

As I have been working on getting this chassis ready for bracing yesterday, I needed a way to keep the poor thing a little more stable. With the rocker out of it makes it impossible to hold it still without welding something in it's place. So instead of welding / fastening a temporary brace in the car, I chose to just temp install the parts that will be installed. Interesting concept, but at least I'll know that they will fit. The car came with some replacement pieces that could be used, like the inner rocker. This part came from the factory on the long side in order to make all the tabs and connecting flanges manually. Starting with the given point of 22" for the rear wheel well area to the seat belt hole, I made the appropriate tabs out of the extra material and bent them in their proper direction and angle. The Weld and Sealant manual is a good reference for the direction of the tabs, not so much on the size or location. I seem to be doing a lot of inner rocker installs as of lately, practice makes perfect lol
 

 
Fitting it in the rear torque box area and over the floor reinforcement piece required a little persuasion as the rear of the car was moved up, kinda neat how much it moves vertically. Getting the inner rocker to fit correctly took a bunch of clamps and some strategic hammer blows to get it situated. Surprisingly enough, it went in and was level (measuring level at the middle top portion) just like the other side. The old part does have surface rust that will be taken care of before it is welded in place. 
 

 

 
When I built the table, the second crossmember was measured and placed to align with the front of the torque boxes for a good reference point. Using a square to transfer the area of the inner rocker to be trimmed and for tabs was as simple as lining up the front of the tube and transferring the mark on the part.
 

 
The mark I made on the inner rocker was the outside of the forward torque box, so the thickness of the front of the box (I allowed .125") for the bend radius plus the metal thickness. This is another place that the factory makes tabs on the inside of the rocker to have more attachment points, I go a little bit farther and cap the end of the "tube" for more strength. This inner rocker is not tapered up towards the front torque box, which might have to be another modification. I needed to see how the torque box was going to align due to this fact. Prepping the area by grinding down the PO's leftover spot weld remnants (thanks whoever took it apart, you did a great job lol) the outer portion of the torque box popped right in place. Using a couple 18R vise grips to hold it up I installed the inner rocker on it's outboard side. (not in the picture)
 

 
I did test fit the outer rocker before any of this was attempted, it fit fairly well. It is going to need some clamping in order to be dimensionally correct, but will work nicely. Once all these pieces are happy in their new positions (sheet metal screwed together) I can get the doors on this and continue getting the chassis braced and properly supported. So far, so good

Hi.  New member here.   A fellow forum member told me about this site, so I will be posting my project details here over the next months (years).
 
My car is a "F" code 1970 convertible, originally a auto/AC car with power top.   2 years ago, I obtained the car from a storage building in Las Vegas, from a friend who had an older family member who had give up on the project.  
 
I loaded the car into a POD, and transported it back home to North Carolina.   Over the past 2 years, I have been sorting and refinishing parts, and this week, had my friend at LatoRacing (forum member) come out and get the car to sort out the sheet metal work that needs to be done.
 
I will post some pics of the find, the transport, and progress since I obtained the car, and once caught up with that, will have LatoRacing post pictures of the progress.
 
Current plan is to build a Mach I style convertible, with a 393 stroker, C-6, 4 link rear, and rack and pinion/coil over front end.   Engine, trans, and interior are done and ready to be installed.
 
Look forward to documenting my project.
 
Regards,
 
Vic
 
 

What are the best subframe connectors that don't hang down and show for a 69 Mustang Fastback?

Hello all,
 
I just wanted to take a minute to invite anyone who may be interested to my 1970 Boss 302 build blog. I've owned the car for almost 30 years and I am one of the few owners who is crazy enough to modify and improve my car rather than get hung up in the "restore-it-to-concours-and sell-it-at-Barrett-Jackson" genre.
 
Anyway, I hope you might find some time to have a look and perhaps find something of interest. Lemme know what you think!
 
http://1970boss302.blogspot.com/
 
Thanks!
 
Sven Pruett

So, I noticed a spot under the rear of my car, and checked it out.
 
3 hours later, after draining 10 gallons of gas out of my tank...
 
My fuel line between the tank and my SS fuel lines in the car was a short piece (less than 6") of SAE-30R7 3/8" fuel line that I got from NAPA.  It's been on the car about 6 years, and when I touched it, pretty much cracked in my hand.   Then, looking around, I wiggled my fuel sender wire, and that started leaking.  
 
The bottom line is that the "rubber" parts at the tank end of my fuel system are shot.  So, I had to drain the tank, and I need a new fuel sender and new fuel line.
 
I normally use Ethanol free gas, or over the Winter, use a Sta-Bil product that is supposed to deal with the Ethanol effects.
 
Anyway, my approach has not been effective.
 
Looking for advice/recommendations/tips on replacement strategy to avoid doing this again.   I am headed to the front of the car over the weekend to check my rubber fuel line transition from the frame rail to the fuel pump feed, and then the fuel pump to the carb.  
 
Thanks.....

I am looking for a passenger 69 coupe extension with holes for the deluxe molding. Must have no cracks in it.

Selling My Raven Black 70 Mach I needs a new home. Car is located in Raleigh NC
Older complete nut and bolt restoration I finished in 2004 that included Paint, interior, suspension, drivetrain, brakes
Original Shaker Hood car with original rear spoiler and rear sport deck fold down.
Car is not a concourse or matching numbers drivetrain. An H code car, triple black from the factory.
Professionally built D9 block 351w stroker, AFR heads, CC Hydraulic roller
Performance Automatic C4
9" 3.70 posi with Shelby underides, Roller Spring perches,  Eccentric Eliminators, Street or Track Adjustable Strut Rods
Disc Brakes with stainless caliper pistons, Drilled and slotted rotors, Braided stainless steel lines.
Marti Report, Loius Eminger invoice, FOMOCO letter, buck tag, Clear title
Must go, kids braces, 4 wisdom teeth and new project cause the bitter sweet sale.
Will need tires
The car is not a trailer queen and priced more than correctly so serious buyers only please.
$27,500

Hey all, first post here. Long time fan of mustangs, especially '69-70' mustangs. I have a '68 coupe in the garage, but have always wanted a '69-'70 ever since I helped out in a local shop in high school that restored only rare, and valuable '69 and '70s. (Shelby, Boss, Mach 1 SCJ, etc.)
Long story short...
Stumbled across a 1970 Sportsroof 302 2v, A/T 3 miles from my house. It's a bare bones car, with manual steering, front drum brakes, and no A/C. (All of which can be changed obviously, but currently hurts it's value) It's been sitting in the barn since 1988. It is a 1 owner car, bought new in 1970 from the local ford dealership. Clean title in hand. The owner bought a new Ford Ranger in 1988, backed the mustang in the barn, and never drove it again. The car is rusty unfortunately.  The 18 years it spent on the road were mostly on winter, salty, Indiana roads. lol.
 
It for sure needs:
2- Quarter Panels
2- Fenders
Full Floorpan
Front Bumper
Full Interior
Driver's Door
A couple of areas on the frame will need repaired as well. 
I've included pictures of some of the worst areas. 
 
My biggest question is: Is it worth it, or should I spend the extra 3 or 4k on a cleaner car? Tools, and garage space aren't an issue, as I have mig and tig welders, plasma cutter, cutting torch, grinders, etc. 
 
He is asking $4k. I was thinking it would be more enticing if it was closer to the $2500 range. I've got a gut feeling that this is probably nothing more than a parts car in it's current condition.
 
Thoughts?? 
 






 

Would anyone know of a good assembly manual for my 70 Mach 1?
Thanks,
Bill

I got the doughnut (foam) gaskets and plastic insert from Muscle Car Research. When I put the doghnut gasket (C9AZ-3E629-A Steering Column Shaft Insulator)
in the smaller tube, the steering column rod is very tight to turn, there is too much pressure from that gasket.
 
www.musclecarresearch.com/C9AZ-3E629-A
 
Any ideals what to do, should I put some oil on it.
I want to leave it out. How did this work with the original set up

Slowly getting there.

Anybody had any luck with these from CJ's. I fought with one side for an hour plus and could not get it to fit correctly. Ended putting the originals one back in with their cracks and speaker hole cutouts.

Pulled positive off battery while motor was running, engine died. That tells me it's not charging based on how I tested alternators back in the day. Had alternator tested--good, replaced voltage regulator, still dies.
Checked all wires on alt harness for condunuity- all good. Tach Mach, 4 wire alt, 4 wires going to voltage regulator.
What's next?

https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pts/6003835662.html
 
posted today

Bought my first Mustang when I was 17 for $200.  The car was a ’69 hardtop that had been re-painted (badly) neon green with a dark green hood.  Being honest the car was a “beater†but it ran good and with a 302 and  3 speed manual it was fun to drive and always got me where I needed to go (and back). Always liked that car and still have fond memories of it to this day.  Didn’t buy another Mustang for more than 20 years when I bought an ’88 LX with a 5.0 and a 5 speed to use as a donor car on my Factory 5 Cobra build.  Easing into semi-retirement now after a lifetime of Camaros and Corvettes and looking for a ’69 or ’70 Mustang fastback to add to my current stable and give me something new to work on and keep me busy.

I will be getting my car back from the Paint shop in th next week or so and will be filming the following videos and posting to You Tube with links in our How to section....So keep your eyes peeled.
Oh will be having a friend who owned a mustang restoration shop for over 15 years assisting me in the processes, so you will be seeing top notch work, and will get some of the secrets to doing it fast and Right.
 
1. Headliner Install
2. Front and Rear Glass install.
3. Bolt in glass install and Adjustment
4. Engine and 4R70W install with Cross member from board member and Computer control from Bauman's.
5. Install of American Auto Wire Complete harness "This may be in several segments"
5. Install of Classic Auto Air complete unit, along with install of Dash pad, guages, etc....
 
6. Will attempt to film as much as i can to help as many as possible.
 
Anyone have a GOOD camera they want to loan me for a month or so :-)
Please feel free to send it over, I will gladly pay shipping hehe
 
Also I do not have any editing capabilities. Would anyone be interested in taking hours and hours of filming and editing it ...sure there will be alot of cursing, throwing of tools and just good old car building fun to be taken out ....Think this would be a great oppertunity to provide some Very useful info to our members.
 
So Stay Tuned ......
 
Mike

Hi All,



New to this forum we've been on several forums for boats just sold our Sea Ray several months ago the time, money and maintenance just got to be to much, started a search for a muscle car several months ago finally found one several weeks ago we liked 2 owner 61,000 miles with all documentation from delivery to present. I'm going to order a Marti report even though I have the hand written original order from Harrold Ford in Sacramento it's hard to read it states order with Specific GT Package options, Air Conditioning, Handling Package etc. So I'm confused if it's a true GT build but it really doesn't matter to me either way at this point.



69 Mustang Coupe 351w 290hp automatic front discs engine has a mild cam, Holley Street Avenger & Dominator manifold, new gas tank. Needs some small things done but in overall good condition NO Rust.



We've owned many muscle & race cars over the years hope to turn this one into a nice weekender.
 
Some history of cars owned and raced.
 
I've been into cars since I was 12 yrs old first car was a 40 chev with a built 283 in it that I sold to buy a 47 Fiat Topolino with a 288 cu in sb that ran 10.38 141 mph in B/A holding the mph NHRA speed record in 1967 sold that and starting racing funny cars, top fuel dragsters and SS/A & SS/AA Plymouth Cuda's & Challengers. Have also done a couple body off restorations but have no desire to do another one.
 
 

 

My floor mats are in need of being refurbishing. I'm checking to see if anyone has had any luck recoloring/dying theirs. Hard to see in the pic's but in places it looks like when you bend a piece of colored plastic you get that washed out/discolored look. Any suggestions appreciated.  
 

 

I'm putting together my 351 W based stroker. It is a 393, and was built on a block that was already .030 over. So, at around .040, I am concerned with it running hot. I have a friend with a similar set up that is running a 160 deg Thermostat. That seems too low. I want to run a 190 deg, but at that temperature, it won't be full open until 210 deg
I am going to use a champion 4 row radiator with 2 - 12" fans, controlled by a Derale PWM box. I have A/C. I have an Edelbrick Victor high flow water pump.
Any recommendations would be appreciated.
I have not purchased the radiator yet.