stephanienl69

I have 52 and a half inches from Center of U-joint to center of U-joint. I found a 51 inch from an explorer. Is 1 1/2 inches too much play?

Great progress!

I'm looking for the seatbelt warning light harness and the light housing that connects to it that goes on the lower dash by the key switch. If you have just the light housing I would be interested in it also, as I need one for my parking light harness also.

Hello everyone, Happy Independence Day!
 
so today I decided to take the car out for drive, was getting on the freeway and started stepping on the gas, then all of sudden lost power and car died.  I tried turning it over but the car stumbles & dies even herd a pop now and when I accelerate I feel it mis firing, no power and tries to die, barely made it home. 
 
recently my alternator (1g conversion) died and fried my battery replaced that and I was back to normal 
 
 
any ideas where to start? I was thinking to look at ignition (Spark plugs and wires)

All parts + shipping from 49201

MAKE OFFERS!
E-brake pedal assembly, $35
(2) Gas pedal assemblys, restored, excellent $50 each
Brake pedal assy, power, restored, excellent $100
Brake pedal assembly,manual, restored, excellent $75
Glue-in fastback door glass $100 each
Fastback Rear window $150
(2) 69 lower dash assemblys $50 each
(4) Quarter windows $30 each
Front bumper brackets, blasted, painted, excellent $40 pair
9†drum to drum rear w/3.25 trac lock (missing drums) $600
Speed Control Module $75
(2) 69 steering columns $40 each
(2) Wiper motors w/wiper arm assy $40 each
Rear tie down plates, blasted, painted, excellent $40 -SOLD
Brake Distribution block $50
C4 transmission mount, blasted, painted, excellent $40
FMX/C6 transmission mount blasted, painted, excellent $60 -SOLD
Front sway bar w/hardware, new aftermarket, $50
Rear sway bar w/hardware, new aftermarket $50
Hood hinge, passenger side, blasted, painted, excellent $40-SOLD
Rear bumper brackets, blasted, painted, excellent $30 pair
front window mouldings $100
(2) rear metal package trays (non folddown) $50 each
(2) hood latches, blasted painted, excellent $30 each
trunk latch $20

Hey folks- still relatively new around here, but this site has already been a tremendous help- and I wish I would have been on here years ago! I don't know how much detail people normally go into with their builds so I will try not to be too long-winded although I feel this story should be told. With that said- thanks for taking the time to read, follow, contribute and follow this (let's be honest) never-ending car build!
 
Our Mach 1's story really starts back in December, 1968- two days after Christmas actually...when she was build in San Jose. Unfortunately, I don't know much of her story until around 2002 when my uncle happened to pass along a "Deals on Wheels" mentioning there was a 428CJ Mustang in Grand Junction, CO listed. I was 16 at the time and my father had just finished a 1970 Boss 302 clone with a 351W project with me (to be fair I watched mostly)... and was looking for a new Father & Son project. Long story short it was a great deal until we got it home and found the original 428 block had a healthy crack through the passenger front wall....
 
Naturally, he decided to have fun with the build after that and went all out on a new 428Cj longblock build with a targeted 450hp. To make the car stand out a bit in a sea of red mustangs, the original and faded Candy Apple Red paint was replaced with a diamond pearl white. The factory red interior was and still remains 100% original aside from aftermarket seat belts. It was about the time the motor was rebuilt that things started to go downhill. Straight from the start the new 428 had issues. It continually ate lifters, exhibited intermittent tappet knock,  sometimes damaged cam lobes, necessitating several complete valvetrain jobs that the local shop who assembled and installed the motor always was sure to charge for. Since the owner was in our car club my father never wanted to cause a fuss over it. Fast forward to 2007- 2008:
 
My dad thought it would be neat to install a fuel injection system on the car- and back then there weren't too many aftermarket EFI options around to choose from. We went with a company named Retrotek Speed (who I think has since been bought out by Professional Products). They had never worked up a dual carb / plenum system for a classic FE Ford bus assured my us they would see us through the install / tuning. Another long story short- they didn't. The problems arised, and the correspondence stopped. Eventually- between a car that was basically un-tunable, had mechanical issues after investing well over 10,000 in a motor & mechanical issues...he lost interest in the car. I was off at College and the car sat...un-driveable until his untimely and tragic death in April of 2012. We were cycling on vacation in Cozumel and a taxi ran a stop sign- striking and killing him right in front of me. Obviously, life since has never been the same. All tragedy aside- I digress.
 
Fast forward to 2015. My wife, new daughter, and I now live back close to home to keep my Mom company- and we want to see this car up and running again like it should. I learned a lot about life, love, family, and cool cars helping out my Dad in the shop, going to car shows, races, etc. and getting this car running and driving like a champ will be an amazing way to remember the good times with him- and maybe in some not-so-understood way he can enjoy it as well. With a 1 year old daughter, I can only hope to leave such a positive impact on her...and maybe this car can serve more than 1 generation of the family. With that said here are some photos of things up to this point. 
 
 

 
The original clipping from "Deals on Wheels"
 

 
 
Best picture we have of the motor when we bought it:
 

 
 

 
 
Motor out and refinishing the engine bay
 

 
The new (soon to be problem child 428CJ) ready to go in...my dad obviously excited:
 

 
Funny clipping from back in the day for the local car show:
 

An a/c issue thread reminded me I had 5 cans of this freon, and no use for them. I laughed when I saw the prices on ebay. Anybody have an R12 system here?

looking for a mach 1 clock for parts or complete. mostly just need the set gear and spring   thanks 

Have a factory ac car, all original components installed, cools to an extent. What all is involved switching system to R134

Anybody going next weekend? June 24-25-26.

By the way, you deserve the Dope Slap I've discussed before for reversing the coil leads to the distributor.  *G*

Australia not close enough? I'm interested if there's a couple of months to save for it. I should be able to organise freight through a local importer.

On my 69 Mach One 351W with stock ignition, points and condensor. The Ultra Lite series tach is in a 6 gauge bezel and the other gauges work. 
 
I installed it as per the instructions:
 
12v fused power, which it has,
Source feed wire from the negative coil post, 
A good ground, which servers as the ground for other working parts on the car.
 
All of the wires have continuity and power when the engine is running.
The engine starts right up, and runs smooth.
All of the connections, wires and routing have been checked 6 plus times.
I ran additional separate wires from the harness for the 12v power, coil wire and ground w/o success.
I hooked up a break in stand tach I had using separate wiring w/o success.
I bought a 3rd tach in case the first 2 were bad, it didn't work either.
Bought and tried a second coil, no luck
Every connection and wire crimp has been checked several times.
 
I switched the coil wire from the negative post to the positive post on my break in stand tach and it worked properly.
I hooked up the Auto Meter tach to the positive coil post, no tach needle movement.
I called Auto Meter who said the wire connects to the negative coil post. If connected to the positive it will burn up the tach.
 
Everything I've read or heard has the coil negative post used for the tach. Until this experience I've always thought tach wiring was a close second to hooking up the battery for ease of installation on these cars. I'm beginning to think I really don't need a tach in the car. 
 
Has anyone had a similar experience or ideas? I'm open to any and all suggestions, other than what I've already tried many times. 
 
Thanks.

Have a C4 and an AOD I don't need.
C4 is not working and came out of my 66 Coupe... Don't know the condition other than it doesn't work and fluid is a mess...it will need an overhaul.
AOD came with the car and fluid looked good so it probably works.
Local pick up only..
Would trade for a steering box for my 66 that's in good shape.
Or cash offers for both transmissions will work to.
I'm in Lake Charles LA
235-241-3278 call or text

I have conflicting thoughts about what is the right stance for our cars.
 
It looks like 15" wheels has an equal space all around the arch of the wheel well.
On Taller wheels 17"-18", it seems to get the top of the tire into the arch.
Does anyone agree or what do you think?
 
In regards to 15" wheels, do you think the distance from the right and left side of the tire to the side arch should be the same height from the top of the tire to the arch?
 
If measuring the stance at the rocker panel, should they be the same height from front to back or an 1", 2" different.
 
 
 

I have a 67 front clip to build .I built this assembly fixture a few years ago .It will fit from 65 -70 frame rails .The rail assemblies are the full Dynacorn rails and bolt into the fixture through the steering box mounting holes and the idler mounting holes .It also bolts through the hood hinge mounting holes to hold everything square and solid .I will assemble the whole front clip ,including the fire wall ,radiator support with the floor supports .I can leave the fixture bolted to the front clip and fit the whole thing still bolted to the fixture into the body .









 

Does anyone know the column's diameter and spline count at the rag joint? I've seen everything from 3/4-32, 3/4-36, 3/4 DD, and 1-DD. I have a 69 with a standard column and power steering if that matters. Thanks for the input.

For sale 1969 passenger deluxe black door  panel .[Has 1 small tear lower rear bottom see pic ] Door panel is very nice $135.00. 1969 deluxe gauge cluster bezel [Have  deluxe gauge's ]  No break's or crack's $225.00. Steering gear box   SMB K 9A 28 B     $100.00   .+ Shipping on all Part's Mark 248-904-7134     NEED MORE PIC'S  el70gato@yahoo.com

Hello, new to joining the forum.  Have followed a lot of the other builds here, which are awesome, and wanted to share where we are in ours.  My dad and I acquired the car in late 2014.  It came with an extremely mild 351C and a C6 tranny.  He tinkered on it here and there and added a few parts but always wanted a little more.. who doesn't.. So after I brought home a 2016 mustang GT he was hooked on the coyote 5.0  We had originally planned strictly a front end conversion and engine/tranny swap but this has turned into a full blown build.  Many of the parts came from Mustangs to Fear, and they have been really really nice to work with.  All of the work is being completed by GT Graphics and Customs out of Franklin, NC.  Both Gary and Teresa over at GT Graphics and Customs are first class individuals.  We couldn't be more pleased with them.
 
I won't bore you with a parts list so here's some pictures of where we are at!
 
Here's the current stable of cars:
 

 
The tear down...
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
Some problem areas...
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

I bought a 67 Camaro image (keep reading) for my father in law for Christmas and had it printed and framed. It turned out awesome. I asked Clint at Westside Design Studio to do a 69 Mustang. He did two images (the one on his website) and another one that features the Fastback design more prominently.
 
He can do other years and other cars for $25 or he can do a custom drawing of your specific car based on pictures you send him.
 
Check it out.
 
https://www.etsy.com/listing/385614510/1969-ford-mustang-blueprint-poster-18x24?ref=shop_home_active_3
 
Don't forget, he has two 69 images--email him. You get the 10mb image to print.

I have a 351C ( 2V Heads ) with stock exhaust manifolds. I'm going to replace the exhaust system ( to be determined ) & have been contemplating installing headers too. I'm curious to know what Brand others guys are using with their 351C & are you using short or long tube headers?
 
Thx!!

Engine bay pics after stripping. Used soda on most of it and glass on some of the rest.

Purchased my car almost 3 years ago. Finally have some extra $$ to start the resto. After pulling out the interior, I discovered that the passenger rear floor had been buckled due to rear being hit and poorly repaired.
 
I had the trunk floor cut and repaired, along with the tail light panel, and have started stripping. Hoping to have the floor repaired and rest of car stripped and body work done this month.

hi,  i can't find it in the repair manuals,   the power steering cyl that mounts to the frame,  the bracket on the frame has a 3/4 or 7/8 hole that the cyl rod goes thru,  does any one have a picture of what or how is used to hold it in place?,    i made a nylon type washer to fit in the hole and 2 nylon washers outside the shole to hold it in place,  but  i don't think its right,   does any one know?,  thanks    jerry

Well the dates and Routes have been released and registration is open.
I will be signing up today and am planning on trying to make the Long Haul Club for my very first Power Tour.
It will end up being about 2,000 miles round trip for me :-)
I ffigure with the tour starting in my back yard and the 1st 3 legs being in Louisiana and Texas this will be my best chance of making it ALL the way
Is anyone else doing the tour?
I have 2 other friends who are Joining me for at least 2 legs of the run.