Mach1 Driver

It looks like you just have to go by the description- the Moog part doesn't say it has roller bearings, even though it costs more, and Opentracker does:
Crafted to outperform OE replacements, Moog's idler arms are solid one-piece designs with all new hardware and grease fittings for serviceability. This durable design, coupled with the ability to flush out contaminants and re-grease the idler arm ensures that you'll not only restore your vehicle's performance, you'll also make it last much longer. Plus, Moog covers all of their idler arms with a lifetime warranty handled in-house here at DST.
Improve the steering of your classic with an Opentracker roller idler arm. A roller idler arm reduces steering effort and allows greater feedback to the driver by keeping the steering geometry in check. Replacing the factory rubber bushing with  grease-able bearings maintains proper position of the center link as it moves from side to side. Manual steering cars will especially appreciate this upgrade as the reduced steering effort results in more precise steering input while cornering. Slow speed steering is also greatly improved making it ideal for street cars as well. Opentracker roller idler arms are made in the US.
 

Last update for this post. After much troubleshooting, the fuel gauge problem was a re-assembly issue with the cluster. Even though the insulation brackets were in the right spot, the posts on the back of the gauge were contacting the cluster housing, grounding them out. I put some electrical tape around the inside of the housing where the posts slide through and it worked. Seems like a bad design, in my opinion, but it worked for 15 years before I messed with it so what are you going to do?
Got the idea from this video I found in an old forum. Hope it helps somebody else. 

No COVID here in Australia. All clear now!

You have a trunk in your trunk! That's pretty nifty.

You have a trunk in your trunk! That's pretty nifty.

No it will save you about 1/2" possibly. The 15" rim is a diameter, not a radius. Also, I would check tire diameters because they vary greatly and you may not save that much.

The price was too good to be true. I entered a chat, and here is how the conversation went:
Me: Will this work anywhere my phone works?
Him: Which device?
Me: Itrack GPS Tracker
Him: Yes anywhere in US
Me: So coverage is 100%
Him: Yes if you use the GPS Sim Card included in the package. Our GPS Sim Card designed for GPS tracker and We partnered with Giant Telecom in US.
Me: is it provider specific?
Him:
We have negotiated flat wholesale pricing with each of the telecom giants for truly unlimited data (no throttling), and device bands (gps device only traffic), Plus Our GPS cards sim operates on a hybrid network, which means when one provider in your area has a stronger signal, the GPS card will automatically switch to the stronger provider.

We also included one month of service for you to test it.
Me: so there is a service that is monthly?
Him: Yes but it's a prepaid service, no contract.
when one month free is up, It's your choice if you like to renew or not.
For renewal, you can check the link here: Yes but it's a prepaid service, no contract.
when one month free is up, It's your choice if you like to renew or not.
For renewal, you can check the link here: https://gps.cards/renewal/
Go to the site and see, it's $24.99/month. BTW, I've seen some for as low as $12/mo. Still looking.

Chockostang could answer your questions and supply the hoses. I bought hoses from him when he overhauled my cylinder a few years ago. So far, so good.   Dave R.

Heres my reasoning:
1. The car has 41 total lights
2. Excluding the headlights (there will probably never be LEDs that are DOT approved), the incandescent lights eat up 26.42 amps. LEDs would consume only 4.51A. That's an 83% amperage savings. Yes I know they won't all be on at once, and I know what will be on when I'm driving at night.
3. The stock alternator is what 35A-38A? Even with the change to LEDs I still need to change to a 95A alternator just to run the stuff I want to upgrade. I won't be running radiator cooling fans because that's another 22A. I will add EFI, an electric fuel pump, power windows, improve the radio output, halogen head lights, MSD 6AL, cruise control, transmission control, and various other amperage sucking devices.
4. I've run the numbers and the only way not to upgrade to a 130A alternator (which would require a serpentine belt system and electric cooling fans) is to eliminate the incandescent lights. I'm pretty passionate about keeping the stock look, and a serpentine system is definitely not a stock look. 

***SOLVED***
First off, I would like to thank you all for your help. Between all of your insights I was able to figure out the problem.
LONG story short, I hooked a 9V battery to some speaker wire and started poking my fully assembled cluster (now on my kitchen counter) until lights started turning on. To my surprise, sometimes almost all of the lights turned on! WEIRD! After a while I noticed a pattern that when I put voltage across each light socket, one of two things would happen: 1) Only two lights would light up OR 2) All of the other lights besides two would light up. This would happen after changing the polarity of my test by reversing which side on each socket I had the "positive" and "negative" cables from the 9V battery. 
I then checked the forum to post my findings and saw what @danno had said about the insulating brackets so I took apart the cluster again and made sure they were in the correct position. Once I re-assembled the cluster and repeated my earlier test, I got the same results EXCEPT now two different bulbs were lit up (or not lit up depending on the cable polarity).
Once I bashed my head against a wall a few more times, I thought back to what @Midlife said about polarity, and even though the bulbs I purchased have reversible polarity, and, therefore, should not care how they are installed, I thought maybe, just maybe, technology back in 1969 wasn't set up to handle reversible polarity.
I then, in the proper "positive/negative voltage flow" scenario, removed and rotated each bulb, that wasn't lighting up, 180 degrees and BOOM. All bulbs work as intended. What a relief.
TLDR: Even reversible polarity LED bulbs bought from modern manufactures are not reversible in this context. I have no idea why and random chance of how I chose to install each bulb has been my downfall all along. I will definitely be marking my lights and light sockets with a pen from here on out.
Anyways, a test drive to make sure my gauges were working revealed that the only casualty is my fuel gauge, which does not work anymore. @danno this gauge had the insulating brackets in the correct place all along so i'm not too sure why it's suddenly not working, but I am taking the win for tonight.
Pictures attached of my 9V test for those who are curious. I hope this thread helps others who have issues with after market LED's. 
 

Well, I made it!  Arrived Monday afternoon, movers showed up at 8AM Tuesday, and have spent the rest of the week making the house livable.  Will have to get car registered, driver's license, and a AZ business license over the next couple of weeks, then work on the garage to make it usable for wire work.  Plan is to start back up Jan 1. 

Finally pulled out the original I6 250  a day ago and I just ordered some convertible inner rockers with the convertible seat pan. 
I have a lot of support and motivation from my family to get this project done so Its all im focused on right now

I think the right question here may be: where did Ford CHOOSE to measure engine temperature? It is in the front of the intake on the side opposite the thermostat. If you look at the circulation path, Eric69 is correct that the front of the intake should be hotter than the rear. Its the last place in the engine where water circulates before exiting via the thermostat.


Water leaves the bottom of the radiator, and is pumped into the block, and around the cylinders. It exits the block through the head gasket passages. Most of the water is forced to the rear so the entire engine gets cooled. DON'T reverse the head gasket- this is a common and disastrous mistake. No water is allowed through the front red passages, some can go up into the heads through the green and blue, but most is forced to the rear. From the heads it goes into the intake manifold to the front where the thermostat is located, and through the top hose into the radiator.

I am wondering if the ground is good?  Are you checking it with the panel screwed in and connected to chassis ground?  Make sure the ground screw is in on the voltage regulator plate and also in the 

She’s back at shop to fix a few details. Her sister just arrived yesterday. 1964 Shelby Daytona Coupe Replica by Factory Five w a 289 & independent rear suspension. Can’t wait to drive her. 

MACH 1.......BILL MURRAY IS A FAVORITE ---  THANKS FOR SENDING THAT!! 
ED
 
 

A couple of people with pretty good credentials (Barnett and Bryonl) say not to use it. I doubt any of us would be using it at -40F so the only thing its got going for it is that it doesn't attack paint (which I really like). On the negative it has the soft pedal which can increase with altitude, and the corrosion problem. Personally my brake fluid only gets changed occasionally, hasn't been spilled on the paint and so far hasn't been a problem (knock on wood). I guess it depends if you drive at altitude, drive it a lot and need frequent maintenance, or intend to change the fluid often. I don't do any of those things, probably like you Ed, so it just doesn't matter:
 
 

A couple of people with pretty good credentials (Barnett and Bryonl) say not to use it. I doubt any of us would be using it at -40F so the only thing its got going for it is that it doesn't attack paint (which I really like). On the negative it has the soft pedal which can increase with altitude, and the corrosion problem. Personally my brake fluid only gets changed occasionally, hasn't been spilled on the paint and so far hasn't been a problem (knock on wood). I guess it depends if you drive at altitude, drive it a lot and need frequent maintenance, or intend to change the fluid often. I don't do any of those things, probably like you Ed, so it just doesn't matter:
 
 

It’s sadly true, and way too easy to come up with a short list. These people will lie repeatedly and invent new ways and things to lie about! How did they get elected, and how do they continue to be reelected?
Adam Schiff- this guy is a pathological liar, he is truly crazy.
Nancy Pelosi- what can you say about the Speaker? A lying partisan politician
Jerry Nadler- not too bright, but a descent liar
Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez – now here is a piece of work- unbelievable. Can she spell dumb?
How about the rest of anti-American “The Squad”:
Iihan Omar
Ayanna Pressley
Rashida Tlaib
I mean really, what the hell are any of these people doing in office?

Gun deaths per capita are low compared to other deaths in the US. As far as related to other countries, somebody's gonna be at the top and bottom of the list. Being worst on the list doesn't necessarily mean it's a bad thing. 
The most gun restrictive cities in the US have the highest murders. Being on top of that list is a bad thing. Hell, living in those cities is a bad thing. 

I did a bit of digging and found this from George Reid in his book High Performance Ford Engine Parts Interchange. It appears (much to my surprise) that the 351W already has a manifold comparable to the 289 HIPO- who knew- way to go Henry!
The 289 High Performance exhaust manifold is obviously different and offers improved breathing. Here, we compare them with standard 289 manifolds (B and D). These manifolds are C3OE-9431-B (Left Side/Arrow C) and C4ZE-9430-A (Right Side/Arrow A) from 1963-66. For 1967, they are C7ZE-9431-A (Left Side) and C7ZE-9430-A (Right Side). The 289 High Performance exhaust manifolds are available as reproductions from Ford parts vendors.

289 standard= B & D                                   351W standard
289 HIPO= A & C
The 351W exhaust manifold is similar to the 289 High Performance pieces just mentioned. It offers improved breathing over the 289/302-2V and 4V manifolds without excessive header heat and clearance problems. As you can see, 351W manifolds vary from left to right. There is a right-hand 351W exhaust manifold similar to the manifold on the 289.
Edit, looking at the pictures I see that the bolts don't appear to be in a straight line on the passenger side manifold of the 351W, as they are on the drivers side, but I don't think that's the case with mine. It's too crowded on the car to get a good look, but it makes me wonder about the validity of pictures. I pulled up some pictures of the gaskets and they appear to be mirror images right to left, which wouldn't be possible- has anyone noticed offset bolts like this on their manifolds? Methinks there may be an error here.

Mid, you are always sooooooo helpful ;)
How about headers?

We all do staffy. Mike has tremendous talent, is kind enough to share his talent, and is truly a good and humble man. We are blessed to have him here. 
Happy Veteran's Day Mike, and all you other Vets, and thanks for your service. 

Welcome Sal to 69stang
     When testing starter solenoid, its a good idea to disconnect the positive wire to the ignition coil, so the motor will only crank, and not start.

It’s sadly true, and way too easy to come up with a short list. These people will lie repeatedly and invent new ways and things to lie about! How did they get elected, and how do they continue to be reelected?
Adam Schiff- this guy is a pathological liar, he is truly crazy.
Nancy Pelosi- what can you say about the Speaker? A lying partisan politician
Jerry Nadler- not too bright, but a descent liar
Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez – now here is a piece of work- unbelievable. Can she spell dumb?
How about the rest of anti-American “The Squad”:
Iihan Omar
Ayanna Pressley
Rashida Tlaib
I mean really, what the hell are any of these people doing in office?