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Mach1 Driver

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Everything posted by Mach1 Driver

  1. Wire diagrams show you how it's wired with colors and plugs, etc., while the schematics below show you how it works. Most of the time you really need both. Interior lights are on page 2 and exterior lights are on page 3:
  2. Heck it isn't even the crack of dawn yet and I'm up already, see below Edit; this thing will print in portrait mode, letter or B size. It's from the 1969 Ford Shop Manual and is 30+ pages long. Each page is originally 11x17, which is B size. The pdf software lets you print pages individually. Mustang Wire Diagram.pdf
  3. In case you weren't aware, this is the effect that Mid and I have been jokingly eluding to:
  4. It looks like the white clip is broken off and as far as I know you need a new speedo cable
  5. ...the triboelectric effect, when a tribe of electrons band together to produce Cool Bombs. No cats are harmed in this process. A glass rod works really well too, instead of a balloon, but it looks silly to rub your cat with a glass rod (which looks like a wand), unless you're someone like Samantha Stevens. And lets face it- she was the bomb! But then she usually just used a nose wiggle. Don't know how that one worked.
  6. Yeah but we're having fun! It is a solid reference though- how long you have the amps makes a big difference... besides, I went to school with Charles.
  7. Bob, with the Motive Power Bleeder there is an adapter that replaces the top cap of the master cylinder, then the pump on the bottle shown above is used to pressurize the system. When you're done and remove the adapter isn't the master filled to the top, and doesn't that spill when the adapter is removed? I would think its likely that the top of the master cylinder isn't level and that would cause a spill when the top is removed. What is your experience- is this messy and likely to put your paint at hazard? Just asking because I'd like to paint the master so it isn't a rusty boat anchor when done.
  8. I do like that gray with black, however probably Red would appeal to more buyers.
  9. That is a Dream shop latoracing. BTW, you do incredible work- if only I had a little bit (a miniscule bit) of your skill ;)
  10. Yeah as mentioned above, a few of us know the ins-and-outs of Ohms Law. A Pertronix Flame Thrower coil can have a primary resistance of 1.5 ohms, but something like a MSD Blaster could have 0.70 ohms primary resistance. The former giving 8 amps of current flow, and the latter over 17 amps, with no way for the harness to handle it. But they sell this stuff and unsuspecting customers have problems, not realizing what they are doing. It should be noted that the coil will draw it's most amperage at idle (or starting) and as the engine speeds up, the points are closed less for a given period of time, actually lowering the coulombs (amps over a period of time). With those low resistance coils, the "run" circuit through the ignition switch and resistor wire should also be considered.
  11. Barnett says to use Remflex graphite header gaskets. He's done lots of Stangs and has good advice.
  12. Bob, with your Motive bleeder, when you take the adapter off the master cylinder, wouldn't it be full to the top and tend to run over? I guess it would be best to have the export brace off and use a C clamp to rig the adapter to the master...do you have power brakes?
  13. Really- just six weeks? Here we call it "paint jail" and it seems to take forever to get them out.
  14. Aw so you're a rock hound. I notice you collect fairly big chunks- do you make jewelry or just like being an amateur geologist? I like the Luxury Liner btw.
  15. Ridge, I wish I lived close enough to hang around your place- I could learn so much. That 53' generator/compressor is a beast. You have an impressive business. I could use that Power King. Last year I cut down about 20 trees, and that would have come in handy.
  16. This ridiculous thing should get a laugh. It is more cumbersome than Bob's sky hook, but it works to get heavy stuff up high like on the shelves. It took a while to find a square tube with a thick wall that would fit - I think this is 3/8".
  17. Yeow 950 sf! Man that was a lot of work. My first house was only 950 sf, and I'm not kidding. You can probably tell that I'm a neat freak too, so good for Pops. Great pictures- there's lots of stuff to see. You've got a good size mill and lathe, not wimpy little girly machines like mine. And, beefy vices, a huge anvil, good welders, a ceiling hoist (if my ceiling wasn't so cluttered I'd do that. I'll have to show what I did to lift heavy stuff), a tubing bender (so that's what you used to make your roll cage), and a good size compressor. Very nice- oh and a couch. Your picture reminds me- I need a good bench grinder... maybe that will be my next tool.
  18. OK guys, lets get some participation going here- this is my latest tool. Its an impact wrench. There are MUCH bigger impacts out there, but I got a two-fer on the big 6Ah batteries from Home Depot. I figure this will work for most stuff I'll be doing, and I already had this battery system going for a saw I have. The battery I was using on the saw is that dinky little 1.5Ah shown on the impact and it would go bye-bye in about a half hour, so I took the Tim Taylor approach of more power (caveman grunt)!
  19. This is a favorite topic on another forum and has been going for almost a year now. Midlife is trying to wake-up the site, because it has been rather quiet lately. I'll start with what I posted earlier today. Your's can be anything- just keep it going! My garage is mostly done now so I can show the highlights, but as we all know, your shop can never be too big and you can never have too many tools. My house has a two car garage on the main level and what is known in my area as a “boat garage” in the basement. This is a hilly area and at least one side of all the basements are at ground level with windows and doors. I believe I may be unique in my HOA for having a second driveway and pad for the boat garage. I know this sounds strange, but all my neighbors have a 12’ door on the side of the house with lawn or dirt outside. My lower garage is an odd “L” shape and since it’s in the basement the overhead is not ideal and there is one particular post that isn’t where I would prefer. It could hold three cars. The Stang and Vette should just fit nose to tail straight-in (although I’ve never done it) and one more could angle off to the left. This garage is the reason I bought the house. The kitchen is the reason my wife bought the house, so it worked out well for both of us. My next project is a shed for the backyard to house more car parts with the dryer and compressor, because I ABSOLUTELY HATE the noise that thing makes. BTW, air is routed to six places in the shop, one of which is a reel hung from the ceiling. This shows typical Home Depot stand-up shelving and shelves I built that are suspended from the overhead. I attempted to cram-in all the storage I could. More about the lift later. This shows more suspended shelving. Each of the threaded rods will support over 500 lbs. On the back wall of the L-shaped work bench I built, is my old tool board that has followed me to all of my houses. My first wife, who passed from lung cancer many years ago, painted the shapes of all the tools in black on the white board so I could identify what I had misplaced and where to put it. What a treasure. The table with the vice in the foreground has kick-down rollers to move it wherever needed. On occasion I’ve backed it up to a post and clamped it on, when I really needed to go cave-man with the vice and a hammer. I did all the shelving, benches and desk using my old ShopSmith, shown on the left. It is an all in one: table saw, drill press, 12” sander, horizontal borer, wood lathe, jointer, jig saw, and vertical filer (hew). I think that’s all. I had to rebuild its power head with all new bearings, belts and a gear or two. It’s a 1984 model that I upgraded to newer tables that are bigger and makes it much more useful. The power head uses variable pulleys and belts for adjustable speeds. It was designed in the 50s before electronic motor controls. Directly above the machine in the wire shelving are many of the accessories. On the bottom shelf is a cross-cut sled I built. It allows you to trim the ends off 2x4s (up to 10’ long) very accurately. Behind it on the floor is a jig I built for making tapers while ripping. Next to it is a Harbor Freight blast cabinet with all of its deficiencies addressed using Tacoma Company upgrades. Now it can do a beautiful cleaning and then bead blasting at far less than 25 psi if you like for delicate pieces. A Dust Deputy isn’t needed for the vacuum because there is a waste gate on the back to set the negative pressure using the monometer on the top, giving a clear view and making practically all the media recoverable. I typically only pour in a Dixie cup full of media at a time, and then reuse it. On the right is a Harbor Freight parts washer with pump. I upgraded this with a heater and thermostat which greatly improves the cleaning. The pump and flexible spigot are a known problem on these. The spigot is attached directly to the motor with plastic fittings. I moved the spigot to a separate bracket and used brass fittings to give it durability. The other problem is the pumps don’t always start. After inspection I found that the pump is underpowered and to overcome the problem they designed the impeller to only engage after about 350* of rotation…if the impellor is backed up to the stop. To insure that it is, all you have to do is blow canned air (for cleaning a keyboard, etc.) down the spigot. That backs the impeller up to the stop and allows the motor to turn almost a complete revolution before the impeller is engaged. It works every time. It would be nice if Harbor Freight stuff just did what it was supposed to, but they doesn’t always happen. This shows the mini mill and lathe. The countertop is Formica so it’s easy to clean-up the oil and metal chips, with an aluminum trim on the edge so stuff doesn’t roll off. The wall behind and the bottom of the shelf above are covered with FRP Wall Board because these machines tend to throw oil and debris everywhere- on the wall and even the ceiling. Next to my desk and garage computer (again the table surfaces are Formica) is one of those combination metal breaks, shears, and rollers. To the left you can see part of the basement dehumidifier, and various floor jacks and stuff. The basement heater and AC unit and the house water heater are down here too. There is ducting, wire and pipes all over the ceiling. It reminds me of my shipboard military days. Miller 220 AC/DC TIG/MIG/Stick Welder. I had to rewire much of the basement adding several sub-panels to get power to the welder and rewire for many other circuits that were previously overloaded and always tripping breakers. My Stang patiently awaiting restoration. You can see from the dust that I need to move the ShopSmith outside before I do any cutting or sanding, but sometimes weather doesn’t permit. I need to get the leaf blower going and blow out the garage again. Wouldn’t it be nice if there as a static system or something that would take all the dust out of the air and deposit it in one place for disposal (besides my car)? The lift is a two post MaxJax, because it works well with the confining ceiling height, and can be moved out of the way for a rotisserie. Yeah- the columns unbolt and they have wheels on them so you can tuck them up against a wall out of the way. I had the area under the posts sawed-out then jack hammered, and put in a generous pad that is 12” thick with rebar tying into the surrounding concrete. That puppy ain’t going anywhere. You can see all the subpanels I added and the welder 240v plug in front of the Stang. I’ve got a 50’ 8ga cord set so I can do welding on the other side of the shop. That shelf and the one to the right of it holds all the volatiles that I wouldn’t want a spark around. There are four fire extinguishers in the garage and adjoining rooms, and fire sprinklers with Wood’s metal above the cars.
  20. I removed my post from here and started a new topic so other folks can join in. See:"Garage/Shop and Tool Hordes...Show us what ya got!!!
  21. Well now it makes sense- I was wondering what kind of gyrations it took to get it up on those blocks ;)
  22. After seeing the picture above I had to share this recommendation from Popular Mechanics: The only appropriate place to jack up a car is on pavement. And in our case pavement means concrete, not softer asphalt. A jack stand can make a nice cookie-cutter hole in thin asphalt. And that's especially true on a hot day, when the sun has made asphalt the consistency of molasses. Speaking of stands--always use `em, folks. Concrete block is not acceptable, because it's far too frangible. There are really only three options: ramps, old-school jack stands and, of course, a hydraulic lift.
  23. WCCC has a video of their worst products- at about one minute he talks about starter solenoids:
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