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Mach1 Driver

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Everything posted by Mach1 Driver

  1. There is an Autorestomod four part video series on how to rebuild a Trutrac that may help:
  2. I think Barnett was messing with everyone a little bit, but no one took the bait. He knows full well that Posi-Traction is a Chevy option, so as he said, the friction modifier would have to come from Chevy. Ford's version is Trac Lok, so directly above he finally said to only use Ford oils. Barnett, do you prefer Trac-Lok, to Eaton's True Trac?
  3. If you go here I think you may form another opinion. Go up to the top if the link drops you elsewhere. Click on Smily.
  4. Here's what it looks like electrically. As Mid said it could be the neutral safety switch, or you could be right and its the ignition switch. You could put the car in park or neutral, turn the key to "on" and jump from S to the battery lug on that side of the solenoid. If it starts but dies after you remove the short, then its either B to C in the ignition switch, the tach if you have one, or the resistor wire.
  5. Is it running rich or just stinking up the garage? Some carbs leak- it could be internal or external. I have an internal leaker that will smell up the garage for a week or more, until the bowl is dry. Its been that way since new and I've never found the source even when bench tested. If you have trouble starting after several days it could be because the bowl is empty like mine.
  6. Read the last paragraph on page 3 above and review the schematic. Putting a switch in the trunk is a good alternative but I elected to go another way.
  7. Statistics don't lie, but its something special to you, and that's all that matters.
  8. The top of page 1 shows how to disable a MSD 6AL box. This method comes directly from their tech line. With the purple wire connected to ground the box will not fire, and it will not harm the box per their technician. This is their preferred method to disable the box. The bottom of page 2 shows how to disrupt the fuel pump. The EFI will not know the pump is off and won't care... of course it can't run without fuel. You don't need to do both but it doesn't hurt. I wouldn't cut the power going to the EFI- they are very finicky and require a line directly to the battery to eliminate all electrical noise. If you want a glitch free ride I would do it this way and leave the wiring to the EFI as they instruct.
  9. In this version, with the washer pump connected as usual, you would turn the key to ON (not start), press the washer for a second, take your hand off the washer and then turn the key to start. If you change the washer pump power source to ignition C and add a fuse, you could turn the key to "on or start" and push the wiper to engage the relay. Either way it only takes a fraction of a second to engage the relay and pole C will hold it on until the key is turned to off. When the relay is on the car will run.
  10. Here is your suggested revision, although it is not without its complications. I used two different CAD programs to draw the schematics. The first was Cadkey, and the second was Solidworks. Cadkey is an easy to use old 2D program, but it can't output to JPG, so I import it to Solidworks to clean up the fonts and export it as a JPG. Then I use Shotwell to resize the JPG, and post it on Imgur. I save the BB code and it appears as below: Now on to the problems with the circuit: 1. I don't like the fact that there isn't a removable key (or magnet), but if that's your preference, then so be it. 2. As you can see, the washer pump is on fuse #1 which is connected to ignition switch A. The problem is that this contact is only ON in "Accessory" and "On". This means you would first need to turn the key to on (not start) and then push the wiper pump. This isn't too big an issue but it would be more convenient if you switched the pump to ignition switch C. Since the ignition circuit is not fused you would need to add a fuse. 3. AW Nuts!!! I just noticed that I have B and C on the ignition switch reversed at pole C on the NO contact. C should be on the left and B on the right in the drawing. This is what holds the relay on. A further complication of this circuit is that a general purpose diode like one previously shown is needed. If you don't add the diode the washer pump will come on, and stay on, as long as the ignition is in Start or On.
  11. The ignition circuit does not have any fuses- apparently they would rather burn up wire than stand someone because of a blown fuse. Since you are pointing at the battery cable connection, I have seen 200 amp fuses placed in the line. The line from the battery to the ignition switch runs the coil through the resistor and isn't normally fused. The resistor is 1.66 ohms on our Mustangs. If you had a 0.6 ohm coil you could expect that combination to be less than 6 amps, so don't go less than 20a.
  12. You should stop by more often Bob, there's some good stuff over here.
  13. I added a post over in the "How Tos" section that tells how to make a magnetic kill switch. Its titled "The Ultimate Kill Switch ?"
  14. I detailed how to make a magnetic kill switch over in the "How Tos" section. Its titled "The Ultimate Kill Switch ?".
  15. On Page 1 of the PDFs below, it shows three methods to disable the ignition. Page 2 shows three ways to disable the fuel, and page three shows how to use a magnet and reed switch to turn those systems off. The advantage of a magnetic reed switch is that it can be hidden behind any plastic part and no one will know where it is or how to turn it off. With a normal kill switch you run the risk that the thief will find the switch. This won't outsmart a determined thief, particularly one with a tow truck, but it will stop most. These are the magnets on my key chain. These little guys are very strong for their size and are normally used as jewelry clasps. They come in pairs with a small through hole down the axis and a larger hole that goes partway down on the other end. I used 30 lb mono-filament, tied a knot and pulled it into the oversize hole. Pull on the loop and you can separate and hold one of the magnets. If you don’t want to hang the magnets off your key chain you could just let the magnet grab on to a chunk of steel somewhere in the car and it won’t go anywhere. I prefer to remove the magnet from the vehicle. The reed switch sits to the right of the magnets. It is small but the electrical specs are more than adequate for the job. This is a demonstration of how well the magnet and reed switch work. Here we have an easily removable piece of plastic trim. The reed switch is attached to the inside with a piece of Scotch tape. The ohmmeter is connected to each side. The magnet is attached to the ohmmeter with scotch tape and supported by the mono-filament line. The magnet is about 1/2” away from the reed switch and has successfully closed the switch- you can see from the ohmmeter that it is not an open circuit but has 14.6 ohms. This rather high resistance is probably due to my ratty old alligator clips, but even this is more than adequate to operate the relay shown in the PDFs, and get you on your way. KILL SWITCH PAGE3.pdf kill switch page1.pdf kill switch page2.pdf
  16. about the only thing I can tell you is that guys have welded the front to the front plate on the torque box, but I'm not sure which end is front. That may be the passenger side, as I think I see the seat belt weldnut just above the left side of the B. You might try asking the manufacturer.
  17. I recently read where a guy with new wheels and tires was having trouble getting them balanced. Two of the wheels had excessive weights: one was 5 and the other 7.5 oz. He had them remove the tires and balance the just the rims (steel magnum 500s). They both came in less than 2 oz, so he had them send the tires back and get new ones. The tires were Cooper Cobras. As I recall Cooper gets a rating of 3 out of 5 and BF Goodrich is 2 or 2.5.
  18. yes they do, but only in timing control, which I'm not going to use
  19. I intend to use a Sniper. I'm in the planning stage. So far I find that everyone has used an aftermarket distributor. That's understandable, since a clean square wave is needed to trigger the EFI. But with a good trigger from a rev limiter the old dizzy should work quite well.
  20. That sounds like that will work for you. The Digital HP box has high output and somewhat like an MSD-6. Anyone with EFI will be at the mercy of their electronic packages. I want to minimize that as much as possible, but I don't know if it really matters- if any one of them goes out we will be FORD (found on road dead). I've been trying to think of the CHEVY acronym but it escapes me at the moment.
  21. A points ignition for an EFI causes problems because it is very noisy and the digital circuitry in the EFI has trouble discerning if the signal is hi or low. The EFI manufacturers prefer a clean square wave to trigger them. I see no need to spend big bucks on a fancy new distributor. I’ll have my old distributor recurved and have it do the timing. The old technology still works very well with a little tune-up, and should make the EFI setup easier. For a points replacement I intend to try a Pertronix. The “I” has the problem of destroying itself if the key is left on; the “II” resolved this issue, and the “III” has multiple sparks and a rev limiter. The problem with the “III” is that the multiple sparks confuse the EFI. I really want a rev limiter so what I want to try is a Pertronix II with a Pertronix 600 Digital Rev Limiter ($145.47). They claim that the limiter has an output that is a clean square wave for the EFI and tach. That should solve the issue with multiple sparks from the "III" but I'll still have the benefit a the rev limiter and a clean output. If anyone has tried this I would sure appreciate a shout-out of the results, or perhaps you have a better solution. I’ve already stated that I don’t want to plop-in a new distributor. My cam manufacturer has cautioned that almost all new distributor gears come from China and are junk. For this reason and to keep the “original look” I want to keep the old distributor.
  22. I've had several switches in mine and they have always been tight. Where'd ya get it? I'm curious if its cheaper to get a new one or refurb the old.
  23. Oh, and she (my Stang) even got a notice from AARP wanting her to join, but she prefers to go with AMAC ;)
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