Mach1 Driver

It should work as a rollover vent, but its not a two way valve like the TPV8 which controls air movement in both directions. Since this rollover vent is positioned in a hose, and a hose is wiggly by nature, it would be more difficult to keep it pointed in the proper direction. It would have to be clamped down securely. Just my opinion.

Something like what (O_o)??

Welcome to the forum. Unfortunately this forum has lost its ability to host pictures. You can show them on the site as long as they are hosted elsewhere, but I for one don't feel like paying for that. It really impedes our ability to help one another. I work around that by making the information available on my Google Drive, and if a back and forth conversation with pictures (diagrams, etc.) is required, then it can be done on one of the other forums like VMF (Vintage Mustang Forum). You will want a 95 amp 3G alternator (3G= Fords 3rd generation). I would show you the output graph but like I said, we can't post pictures. It produces 95 amps at only 1500 rpm, and 120 amps at 3000 rpm. Actually I would recommend using a big block 6 blade fan and clutch instead of electric fans that need Hoover Dam to power them, but suit yourself. The nice thing about 3Gs is that they give you almost 65 amps at only 900 rpm. 95 amps is the largest size that is recommended for v-belts. PA Performance makes a nice alternator and a conversion box to replace the regulator that makes the wiring changes easier. Use the link to my Google Drive and open the file: "3G alternator swap onto a classic Mustang". Any of the information on the drive is free for the taking. The wire diagrams change depending on year and if it has an ammeter or charging light. 69s are on pages 15 and 16: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10FqYlsGT1XXr8B5TCF9WAASkU4vdPtuJ?usp=sharing Just one word of caution; I'm working right now with a guy on VMF who made the swap but is having trouble getting the alternator to charge. I'm thinking his 56 year old plug in the harness has high resistance connections that are causing his problem. He is in the process of making some additional changes that aren't shown on the wire diagrams. He is adding a cable to make sure the alternator is grounded, and moving the position of the yellow wire from the alternators internal regulator and connecting directly to the alternators B+ post. This shouldn't be necessary, and people don't always report back with their outcome, so if you have any problems, please let me know.

People around here only use the high beams when they are deer hunting ;)

Bob, I remember you asking about changing your headlights- are they still stock or something else? If its still stock, the outer lights have two filaments, one for high beams, and one for low, so this could be a bad bulb, or bad power or ground connections at the light.

I would take a look at the general health of the fuel system- if you have an original tank its way past time to replace it. Look for rust/debris in the carb, or a fuel filter that keeps getting clogged up. You didn't mention which engine, but if its a SBF you can put a 65 fuel pump on it that has a fuel filter on it. This is undoubtedly the best filter, and it fits a 351w. There are different versions of the pump to match the size of the fuel line coming from the tank, so just be aware.

When you punch it, the rod makes the trans downshift- otherwise it has disappointing acceleration. This is what mine looks like: https://www.kickdownrods.com/shop/1969-ford-mustang-351w-fmx-transmission-kickdown-rod

You guys do know they are 2.75" taller than stock right? Might be tuff to find an air cleaner? Would a shaker work on that?

Sealants- its like politics- everyone seems to have an opinion Water pump bolts- use anti-seize on non-threaded shaft of bolts Intake manifold- use anti-seize on front & rear bolts on non-threaded shaft of bolts. Use Permatex Ultra Black Gasket Maker at front and rear China rail. Sam Mahdavi says to clean surface with alcohol or brake cleaner, use Permatex Ultra Gray, let it cure for a few minutes then assemble. There are special versions of Permatex for water pumps, sensors, transmission fluid, synthetic oils, etc. Here is a collection of comments on sealants from various people on several forums: NEFaurora My personal preferences below: I only use Fel-Pro Brand Gaskets ever. Valve cover - Rubber Gasket, not Cork.... - Thin line of Permatex Ultrablue or UltraBlack Thermostat housing - Paper, Cardboard or Fiber Gasket - Thin line of Permatex Ultrablue or UltraBlack Water pump - Paper, Cardboard or Fiber Gasket - Thin line of Permatex Ultrablue or UltraBlack Fuel pump - Paper, Cardboard or Fiber Gasket - No Sealant used. Oil pan - Rubber Gasket, not Cork.... - Thin line of Permatex Ultrablue or UltraBlack Carburetor - Paper, Cardboard or Fiber Gasket - No Sealant used. Carburetor spacer - Paper, Cardboard or Fiber Gasket - No Sealant used. Some people like and use the Original Cork Gaskets..... I am definately NOT one of those crowd. I got tired of cleaning cork gasket material off of my engines and finding bits and pieces of them in my oil pans and oil valleys. When they came out with the Rubber Gaskets in the 1980's, I was ecstatic...and have been ever since. Happy stang Felpro gaskets and "The Right Stuff" gasket maker are all I use. Don't use any type of silicon/gasket maker on the carburetor or spacer gasket. Fitch I use Fel=Pro gaskets and a thin coat of Permatex gasket maker RTV. https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8218...99660406&psc=1 On these 70 yo engines, there is going to be some pitting so, you have to use some sealer along with the gaskets in some areas. If I am installing a new component such as a water pump, I spray the side of the gasket that goes to the pump with 3M weatherstrip adhesive to hold it in place and then apply a thin coat of rtv. I also glue the gasket to the valve cover and oil pan . I dont use any sealant on valve covers and only a little in each corner of the oil pan. No sealant on the thermostat housing unless it is pitted. I usually spray a copper sealant on each side of the head gaskets. I use a thin coat of RTV around the water jackets on the heads and intake on both sides of the gasket (very thin ). I glue the front and rear intake seals to the block and use RTV on each corner there also along with a thin bead of RTV along the top side. Everyone has their own practices when to comes to gaskets and sealants. What works for me may not work for you. The best gaskets, clean surfaces, and a torque wrench are your best friends. Work fast but carefully as not to pinch or roll the gaskets. NEFaurora (again) The Permatex UltraBlue and UltraBlack are all I ever use... I would never use the Regular RTV...even if Permatex was the maker....but that's just me. I don't like any regular RTV Sealant. Permatex Does make a "HIGH TACK" Black "Brush-On" Gasket Sealant for head gaskets....and it's fantastic stuff...No leaks! I've used it for decades.. The Part Number is Permatex #98H-80062, or just #80062. Woodchuck I use (and have used for the last 45 years) one primary gasket sealant, Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket. I WILL, on occasion, use Permatex Ultra Black RTV on spots where cork & rubber meet or where there are 2 gaskets and an exposed parting line. Examples are between the cork end seals and intake manifold gaskets, same on the oil pan between the cork sides and rubber ends...but just a "dot". The factory didn't use RTV and these cars didn't leak on the showroom or lot floor, and you darn well believe that people wouldn't put up with them leaking on their garage floor or driveway! I try to use Victor-Reinz (Mahle) gaskets where I can get them. Gypsy R The engine killing RTV "strings" come from where two surfaces come together and the RTV squeezes out the sides. If you see some squeezing out then some is also squeezing "in". THAT is where the strings come from, they don't stay attached in the long run. They'll end up in your radiator or your oil pump pickup, neither is good. I don't know any qualified professional mechanics that advocate coating any gaskets with silicone, most technical publications and seminar holders advise people NOT to do that. But if you just have to at least make sure none is squeezing out. Use as little as possible if you just can't do "none". But folks, they're your engines. I'm retired from buying dead-engined vehicles that others have abused and rehabbing them so I'm not hunting any more such deals. I sure made some money on more than a few such over the years though. That said, you can "get away" with a lot of things on a car that only gets driven a dozen times a year or something. A daily driver is going to suffer more and problems tend to rear their heads in months instead of years. This long term stuff matters to me. My main motorcycle I bought in 1987 (with a bad engine), it was 13 years old then. Still the main ride. One daily driver truck I've had since Katrina, 14 years, and it's 38 year sold now. (Bought with a bad engine) The younger daily driver truck (I switch back and forth) I've only had about 10 years now I guess. It's 24 (bought with a bad and abused engine). '67 Mustang for over 20 years. It's engine wasn't actually bad, just ignored way too long. Wife's once driver is an '86, previous owner had no concept of oil changes. Forgot the youngun', wife's driver is 18 now and also was a previous victim of bad/no maintenance. You kill'em, I revive 'em. And then KEEP them going. For as long as I want. Between the four main vehicles in my driveway right now are almost a million miles. And every one rescued and bought cheap because of it. Tallguy I have taken a different path. No sealant on gaskets for me on gaskets except the following: 1) Oil pan gasket sealant on the corners (I have a one piece rubber type gasket) 2) Intake Manifold - no sealer on intake gaskets but used Permatex Ultra Gray in the corners and top and bottom of the cork end pieces. Why not throw away the cork like people say? Well when I tried just using Permatex it is a thick bead and when I had to remove my intake two weeks later it was still not dry (not even close in the middle). So this time I used the cork and it will be just fine. Not sealant on the water pump, timing cover, water neck, head gaskets, valve covers (I have rubber style), carb, fuel pump, oil pump/pickup and whatever else I can't think of. The newer gaskets call for no sealant in the instructions. Of course if you have a sub standard surface you may decide it best to use a little sealant to fill the voids. Time will tell if I get leaks but not a drop during cam break in. One other thing to consider is to torque everything properly and clean the surfaces prior to installing gaskets 66Coupe289 For me those cork intake end gaskets go in the trash and a bead of RTV is used. A dot of RTV is used at joint between cork and rubber oil pan gaskets. A thin coat of Gask-a-Cinch is used to hold gaskets in place.(oil pan, fuel pump, rear end) Nothing on carb gaskets, ever.

I don't know if this helps, but you could rig-up a timed relay to turn them on. The trigger could be turning the ignition switch on ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

That's probably the closest to the original look. My only complaint is that the cable swage fittings are huge compared to the originals- probably twice the size. Does the one at the hood pin beat-up the hood paint? Is there some trick to arranging them so that doesn't happen?

The kits for 69s appear to be discontinued. They had lots of hoses, one T and one thru-plug- take a look at the pictures here: https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/17434/31522/vacuum-line-hose-kit-air-conditioner-repro-1969-1973-mercury-cougar-/-1969-1973-ford-mustang.html There is lots of conflicting information about the hose size, but it may be 5/32" internal diameter.

If you look at what years they mate to, there are none for 69/70 Ford. Anyway, Dakota is a good choice.

Oh I doubt it. Its a very specific plug just used to mate to the flex circuit. That would be a weird critter.

I've got a set and they are Primo.

Hi Old School, welcome to the forum just for us cool kids with 69s and 70s. Chockostang is regarded as the expert on Mustang steering and brake systems. He made a comment once that the Mustang guys complain all the time about the PS, but the Vette guys don't and they have the same system. It is definitely "good enough" and mine has worked for 56 years. I don't claim to be an expert, so I suggest you post your question on Vintage Mustang Forums. Chock hangs out there and is sure to answer any questions, not to mention inputs from many other knowledgeable people on the worlds largest Mustang forum. Be sure to clearly identify what you have and any modifications.

Mine doesn't like "The old car smell"

There are lots of options in that thread. The TPV8 just allows it to vent, so you could still get odors. The canister is more work if you run a line all the way to the air cleaner. If you make a canister like in #37 it doesn't cost much, and it may help keep the smell down, but if you are running a carb, the bowl vents let it out anyway. And then there is the Tanks Inc rollover- it seems they have found a good place to locate it inside the 1/4 extension.

OK, that's Doug. I haven't heard from him in a while. I did a modification to the filler neck to prevent gas from spitting back when filling, and Doug took it a step further, with the help of some tooling he had available. He uses the stock filler neck and modifies it, so it already has the dimple, as does my version. I still use a vented cap underneath the flip-down style cap to prevent Phil's experience two posts above with the collapsing gas tank. The problem with the Tanks Inc. VVR Rollover Vent that you mention is that it has to be positioned vertically with the hose at the bottom and the screen at the top, or it plugs itself and doesn't vent. There are few if any places to correctly and safely position the thing. It needs to be above the tank and outside the car (not in the trunk). Some people put it in the wheel well, but in my mind that's a bad idea. The hose and vent need to be completely clear of the tire. It would also get lots of spray from the tire in the rain- not a good idea in my opinion. As long a you vent the tank you will be alright. Not knowing what your cap does exactly, none of us can make a judgement. Something like the Newton TPV6 or TPV8 tank vent works well, see post #19 in: https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/ideas-for-solution-to-venting-the-gas-tank.1074018/page-2. It prevents excessive expansion or contraction in the tank. Expansion would be caused by the fuel expanding on a hot day, and contraction is caused by the fuel pump sucking gas out of the tank. It needs to be positioned as high as possible in the trunk above the tank- like around the trunk latching mechanism. Then the hose must be run outside. Ford stuck the end of the hose into the rear frame rail, see post #27 in: https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/ideas-for-solution-to-venting-the-gas-tank.1074018/page-2 .

What's modified about the filler neck?

If you ever think you're in control, its just an illusion...

This should give you some ideas: https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/ideas-for-solution-to-venting-the-gas-tank.1074018/page-2

I'm not so sure of that- they still sell the Hercules brand and 4.5" drums, so I bought that. The store manager claimed Hercules is a higher quality than Bauer, but who knows, they have 9 brands.

FYI, the Bauer surfacer was on closeout, and my local store doesn't stock the 4" diameter drums anymore. They have switched to 4-1/2" for their Hercules brand, which won't fit the Bauer. So you may have trouble getting the drums in the future.

Hmm, the Bauer version is $59.99 in store only, but the Hercules version (looks like the same tool but in blue) is $139.99. What grit did you use there Ridge? I couldn't help but notice that among your weapons on the table there is what looks to be a Bauer bandfile belt sander $54.99