Mach1 Driver

Agreed, the site is next to useless without the ability to post pictures, and like the rest of you I'm not usually willing to park a picture elsewhere (or find some other source) so it can be shared here.

Yes, turn the key to "accessory" or "on" and briefly touch the wire to chassis- I don't recommend pegging it, just see if it moves. If it does, then that side of the circuit is probably good, and then the sender is at fault. Since we can't post pictures anymore, I can't give you the quick and dirty version of how it works. However if you go to my Google Drive folder (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10FqYlsGT1XXr8B5TCF9WAASkU4vdPtuJ?usp=sharing) you can download "69-70 instrument gauge cluster6" which will probably give you too much information. Feel free to download anything on the drive.

This is a truck, a 66 but maybe it will help- at around 2:20 you can see it's a 6 cylinder and the water sensor is located on the passenger side at the back of the block below the intake manifold and next to the exhaust manifold. At around 2:30 he talks about the oil sender but doesn't show where the extension goes into the block, see the second video. From another video, the oil sender is on the drivers side at the rear of the block and this clearly shows where, so you don't get the two confused:

Most forums don't allow uploading of large files, so I parked several useful documents on Google Drive. Using the link below, you have free access to all the documents in this directory. Since we can't post pictures anymore here, get the "69 Mustang Wire Diagram.pdf" and see page 2-E29: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10FqYlsGT1XXr8B5TCF9WAASkU4vdPtuJ?usp=sharing

The video isn't quite correct. I'm the original owner of a 69 Mach1 that by coincidence is the same color as in the video. I was 19 when I bought it new. The reason there were no screws in the kit for the lanyards to attach to the core support is because the loop in the lanyard was simply pushed down over the pin, not screwed to the core support. Also, the lanyards were not routed through the grill, they just lay on top of it. The only difference I see in the kit and the original parts is that the swaging sleeves used to make the loops in the lanyards are much larger than on the originals. Its too bad you can't buy just the lanyards from Ford anymore but this appears to be the closest reproduction available now. I can't tell you how many times I've replaced those over the years because the protective plastic covering on the lanyards cracks and falls off as it ages.

I haven't tried it yet, but it seems so, if you believe CJ Pony: https://www.cjponyparts.com/windshield-wiper-control-module-intermittent-mustang-1969/p/WWS25/

Hi Dave, I looked on their site and didn't see anything- any idea what the brand is? Ace has independent retailers, so they could have anything in their stores- mine sells locally collected honey.

I get a message to "Please contact us for assistance" whenever I try to insert a picture, and get a "failed upload" notice. We all know that Ben has bigger fish to fry than this seemingly little problem. I'm happy the site is up and running again, but it's pretty useless without the ability to post pictures. I assume that this is an unintended consequence of the effort to keep the bots off the site. Perhaps all uploads have been blocked? Does anyone have some insight into this problem? Edit, it seems the only way to get a picture is via a hyperlink, but obviously you need someplace to park the pictures for retrieval.

Mike, I can't attach pictures anymore- I assume you have the picture shown above because of the hyperlink? I get a message to "Please contact us for assistance" whenever I try to insert a picture, and get a "failed upload". We all know that Ben has bigger fish to fry than this seemingly little problem. I'm happy the site is up and running again, but it's pretty useless without the ability to post pictures. I assume that this is an unintended consequence of the effort to keep the bots off the site. Does anyone have suggestions? I'm going to start a post on this topic to draw more attention.

Here are some suggestions from various places around the web: The good news is that once the trim is on the car, there is not that much stress on the pins. There are two ways to make a repair. 1. If the base where the pin is big enough, carefully drill a hole where the broken pin was. Then using a bottoming tap put some 4/40 or 6/32 threads in the hole. Using thread locker screw the correct size screw in that hole. Grind the head of the screw off. You now have a stud for that mount. 2. If the broken pin spot is to small or shallow to do the drill and tap method. Use a Dremel tool and cut the base of the broken pin out. Cut the head off of a 4/40 screw. JB weld the screw in place of the broken pin. You can use masking tape to hold it in place until the JB cures (others complained that it fell off almost immediately using this method). I drilled and tapped all 6 spears in front fenders with a 1/8th bit and after 8 years of driving it is all still good. If you have the material there, drill and tap (use a bottom tap to utilize every thread) Cut a stud to length, insert it using red Loctite. I think Loctite might make something even stronger than red. Try Muggyweld.com, that's what I use to weld pot metal, works great. Just don't breathe the fumes and be patient and not cut corners. Follow directions. For about 60 bucks you can get a couple of sticks and some flux. Pricey but it's the only one that I'm aware of that's made for this specifically.

here is a link to the gasket set: https://www.npdlink.com/product/gasket-set-heater-box/103212?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dheater%2Bdoor%2Bfoam%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969

Two different Hedman headers are mentioned above, 88660 and 88308- which did you use to get around the 4R70W?

I don't know what you need specifically, but I just happened to notice today that for my car both of these kits to rebuild the master cylinder are available from NPD: 2004-4 and 2004-2a

I tried to upload a picture earlier today too, but no dice. Ben (the owner) may not be aware of the problem, since he is hopefully still battling bots. He's a difficult man to get a hold of at the best of times.

It isn't shown on the Mustang drawing, but is on the Cougar. I don't think it is on the flex circuit for the Stang. Aslanefe has made the switches in the past and should know how to wire it. It may require a socket or something. The switch provides the ground, and it goes to the light, the other side of which goes to a keyed positive source. You can wait for him to show up, or send him a private message.

rwcstang, I assume copb8 was talking about his MC. So you think the rebuilders will have the parts for the MC even if NYPD doesn't? It's worth a shot.

I know its a lot easier to just buy what you want than to rebuild, but with aftermarket parts what they are these days, personally I would try to rebuild the original MC, rather than buy another. There are lots of kits available from NPD: https://www.npdlink.com/1965-1973-mustang/brake-wheel/master-cylinder/master-cylinder-new-rebuilt, but not knowing any specifics about your car, you need to call them. I would never buy a new Power Brake Booster, preferring to get the original rebuilt, as the aftermarket stuff just doesn't fit or work properly. Watch these videos from WCCC on boosters; I think it will open your eyes: There are several places that do booster rebuilding: boosterdeweyexchange.com (recommended by WCCC) mwreman.com, Midwest Remanufacturing (recommended by renowned brake and steering specialist Chockostang) Karps Power Brake Service (recommended by GT289- ex Global West GM) Harmon Classic Brakes, has a descent website I hope this at least gives you a different perspective.

If you want to use the original radio and upgrade it to todays wiz-bang stuff (you can even give it voice commands), you may want to try this: https://www.tech-retro.com/aurora-design/home.html

WooHoo, the Russians have been evicted! Its around noon on 5/5/24, lets see how long this lasts. Thanks guys. And the "Like" feature is working again. EDIT: Dang, that lasted about 2 hours and they are back.

I have no direct experience with Power Master, but the good news is that this particular one appears to be 100 amps, so if you want to run a V-belt it is still low enough amperage to do so. FYI, when you go bigger it needs a dual v-belt or a serpentine belt or it can slip and squeak. A serpentine usually requires electric fans that pulls lots of amps (>20) and sucks up a lot of the amps. Its a rabbit hole I prefer not to go down. A potential down side is that it is one wire, not 3G. 3G stands for third generation, and one wire alternators are a newer version yet. Most people agree that 3G works best on our cars, giving more charging at lower RPMs and stable voltage. I recently read a post by a well known tuner who claimed that the electrical noise on a one-wire (electrical spikes and dips in voltage) cause problems with aftermarket EFI systems that are of course electronic and very sensitive to power fluctuations. That's all I've got. Let us know how it works out.

My anti-virus software and Google did not want to let me come here. I have no protection as long as I'm on the site.

Well thanks for helping to clean up around here guys. We all appreciate it. I tried liking Ben's post but that still doesn't work.

I tried to "Like" Ben's post, but that is unfortunately still broken for me. Anyway, I'm happy for the coming changes. With all the bot posts and my anti-virus program telling me the site isn't secure, I was seriously considering not returning to the site.

Makes you smile doesn't it ;)

Since they raced our cars back in the day without electronic ignition systems, just using the stock coil with points and a condenser, it seems the only thing the electronic systems do is add complexity (something else to fail) and lighten your wallet. I'm not saying they don't work, they just aren't really needed. However I do see the need for a rev limiter, and that was an option even back then. All of that being said, I see that Pertronix sells the 600 Digital Rev Limiter, but I have no particulars on it.