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Mach1 Driver

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Everything posted by Mach1 Driver

  1. the dash light problem is somewhere to the left of the 4A fuse #5 in the schematic. Connect your test light to I on the light switch. The wire is blue with red stripe. Turn the light switch on and adjust the knob to the right (CW). The test light should come on. If it does then Midlife is probably correct and the wire/terminal has broken at the fuse. For the door light, check at the bulb for power with your test light. The wires from the A pillar to the door have to flex and after 50 years may be broken.
  2. Cool is a matter of taste. The Shelby is certainly a more expensive and better performing car but I can't really say I appreciate the look all that much, particularly all those tail lights. Also the signature four head lights were replaced with only two. I'm not saying that the front sudo brake cooling ducts wouldn't have added functionality, but the actual duct to make them cool the brakes was an option and didn't come standard with the car. I got that tidbit from a GT500 owner. I wonder how much lighter all the fiberglass actually made the car?
  3. Much of our old classics can be repaired with fairly basic tools like wrenches, sockets and screwdrivers. If you are mechanically inclined at all, you could get the manuals and do most of the work yourself. There are videos, books and lots of help on more than a few Mustang forums. Join a Mustang club and get to know the people who work on their cars.You would save lots of cash and have the satisfaction of doing it yourself, and probably doing it better than most shops. You could still pay to have those things done you don't feel comfortable doing. 10 grand at a shop doesn't go far on these beasts. It may seem daunting but many many people do their own suspension work. Its not rocket science. Look at your list- $475 for a clock? Come on, you could replace that, fix a rattle in the back seat, and adjust a window. I'll bet you could do almost all of that list, make friends and get lots of help here. Get your hands dirty! If you must pay a shop for all these things then prioritize- above all else the car must be safe so do the brakes and steering first. The speedometer is fairly important but replacing the cable and perhaps the speedo is far less expensive than installing a Dakota Digital- although I must admit I lust after one myself.
  4. Nails on a chalk board? I hadn't noticed that- don't forget to add water. My wire diagram says that intermittent wipers were an option in 69. The Windsheild Wiper Governor 17C476 (pause control) appears to be a separate box with a transistor, diode, cap, resistor network and a relay. The switch is different (17A553) with a variable resistor to set the time relay for the relay. The motor is electrically the same. Without converting it from a wire diagram to a schematic I can't be certain the park feature is exactly the same, but it looks like it might be. The switch seems to use the same plug.
  5. Its a schematic, which is intended to show you how it works, while a wire diagram shows you how it is wired- they are different things. You probably need both- I'm sure you could download a free wire diagram on line. The schematic is the only one of its kind, but I made it available on the Mustang sites I frequent, I hope it helps.
  6. The wiper motor circuit is real science. If the motor runs, then stopping it in the correct place is a function of two switches- one in the dash mounted wiper switch, and the other in the motor. It could be a problem with the wiring too. To get it to stop quickly and in the correct place (they call it parking) they used a technique termed "dynamic braking". It relies on the fact that a DC permanent magnet motor can also become a generator if power is removed and the shaft is still turning. As a generator it produces a voltage opposite to that which would turn it in that direction- if it were a motor. So first they slow to motor to the slow speed, because its easier to stop when its going slower, and then they connect the ends of the motor's coil together. It tries to reverse itself and stops very quickly in the process. You can follow the process step by step here:
  7. The bottom part of the following page shows how the wipers work. Its a schematic, not a wire diagram, but the wire colors are shown. You will need to figure out how the Painless wires connect to your wiper switch (which are run, hi, lo, park and pump) and then you should be able to figure it out.
  8. The gearing depends on the transmission- with an overdrive you probably want something around 3.50. Positraction is a Chevy coined word. For Ford limited slip differentials many people prefer a Detroit Trutrac by Eaton.
  9. this may work: https://lmr.com/item/PE-990/1979-93-Mustang-A-Pillar-Behind-Fender-Rubber-Plugs?utm_source=google-shopping&utm_medium=comparison-shopping&utm_campaign=google-shopping-v2&adpos=1o2&scid=scplpPE-990&sc_intid=PE-990&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIn9D4nauI2gIVi7XACh03GQmzEAQYAiABEgLs4vD_BwE
  10. Here is their video- they use Delrin bushings. Its not SoT by a long shot, but I'm wondering how close the performance is? Has anyone tried this?
  11. my German Shepard thought it was a real dog and started to whine back
  12. you still got a vernier caliper? You got a flip phone too?
  13. I measured, then cut out a circle of plywood to simulate- about as far as you can go is a Edelbrock 7181 if you fit the stock blue bucket on the top. However, you could modify the air cleaner as Buckeye Demon did in his build: 69 Mach 408 Build. He trimmed down a shaker, but the concept is the same. See pages 2, 3, 38 and 44.
  14. That's a nice little "out of car" set-up and does indeed work well. Thanks
  15. I have seen you say that repeatedly, but unfortunately JBA only uses descriptions and not part numbers when describing their products, and nothing matches "off road", so unless you are a lot more descriptive, then what you are using will remain a secret. Ya gotta admit that "off road" and "351W 69 Mustang" don't seem to go together.
  16. Rich Ackerman- this is a very cool mod. An adjustable passenger mirror is almost a necessity, and I love the sequential arrows, but I see a potential hitch in the giddy-up. I've found two suppliers for the sequential arrows. One is https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjYndnpkuTjAhWrmuAKHc5UCCoQFjAAegQIABAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FiJDMTOY-Sequential-Flashing-Turn-Signal%2Fdp%2FB008L5JMH8&usg=AOvVaw1DSjw0ROMcjWHLU57tMQ0f which has one common wire and three others, one to each of the arrows. I believe this requires a sequential flash module https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=10&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjnpILIlOTjAhULJt8KHQIMBJwQFjAJegQIABAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FiJDMTOY-Universal-Sequential-Dynamic-Retrofit%2Fdp%2FB079K6GHWM&usg=AOvVaw2cTqOYZXZB1Qg4dsUPO9jQ . The other supplier is https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjr3YrNleTjAhVoRN8KHV6UCqkQFjABegQIAhAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FDelta-Lights-03-6584-50-Mirror-Signal%2Fdp%2FB009X1VGRS&usg=AOvVaw0v4fAfefK_OtBE8fAVKe1T These are quite a bit more expensive but they have the sequential flasher built in and only two wires- common and supply. Here is my problem- these appear to me to need a constant supply of voltage to operate. The turn signal line in our classic cars, is not a constant supply. The flasher makes it go on and off. Rich, have you tried to tie your mirror lights into your cars flasher system- and if so how does it react? Maybe you could do a video of that. While not unsolvable this could be a hiccup. The power comes from the ignition switch to a fuse, then to the flasher, through the hazard warning switch, then to the turn switch which actually has 4 contacts, one for each corner of the car. That was the logical way to wire it up but if we need constant voltage with the turn switch on, then we have a problem. The easiest way I can see to resolve this is to make a timer circuit for the mirrors only, to keep the voltage high during those times when the flasher goes low.
  17. He didn't mention it above, but I have read very good things about Mustangs To Fear's headliner. They are one piece and I don't believe they come in red.
  18. Yep that's my version above, but I still can't find the post on the kit for the fuel filler neck insert. He used the same insert I found, used a hydraulic device to make it smaller in diameter and then he didn't need to cut the tube like I did. Oh well, mine works, its just more work.
  19. My 2018 F150 has that too, but its behind a door. Are you thinking of adding a door to your 69? Mine used to spill over just about every time I filled it, and I've had it since it was new. There are several fixes for that, one of which I posted a few years back. One of the guys here came up with a kit I did a search but came up dry: 1965-70 Mustang and Cougar Fuel Filler Neck Insert Kit, and I couldn't find my own post either. You might try the same search on Stang Fix.com
  20. It sounds like a Ford type alternator. If so you need at least a 1/2w, 470-560 ohm resistor connected to the ignition switch and active in "start and on" on one side and "I" on the other. If you want a light it should be a filament bulb - something like an 1895 or 194, both of which are 3.78w at 14v. Put it in parallel with the resistor. If its a Ford type internal regulator then that should do it.
  21. Is yours a 3G alternator? If it is made by PA Performance it will have a special external regulator. If it is a Ford style 3G it will not. Below is a 67 with a Ford type 3G. I've looked at 66-70 and they are all electrically the same but the wire numbers, color and exactly where the wires connect may be slightly different, but the electrons still flow to the same places. Power for the added goodies should come off the starter solenoid post. The mega fuse will disconnect the alternator from the car, while the fuse link disconnects the car from the battery/alternator. Both are needed. The resistor in parallel with the light will let things work if the light burns out, and the light is not required. Its hard to tell, but it connects to "I".
  22. I was just at my monthly Mustang club meeting over the weekend and one of the guys brought his 69 GT500, which of course is a 428 Cobra Jet. He says he has to take the export brace off to change the plugs. He was complaining about too little radiator for too big an engine. He added an electric fan for the main radiator and added a separate trans cooler with its own fan. Another guy showed up with his 69 GT350 which is a 351W. Imagine that, two Shelbys in the same club! It was originally ordered by Hertz to become a rental car, but their insurance changed and they never took delivery so the dealer drove it for a year and then sold it to our club member. He would routinely run away from the police until after five such instances they figured out where he lived.
  23. Come on Rick are you really going to show us this and not give us the details? I'll add my name to the list with MTF, Mike65, bigmal, and 69Stanger408: how about a parts list?
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