Jump to content

Mach1 Driver

Members
  • Content Count

    1,672
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    55

Everything posted by Mach1 Driver

  1. looks like a home brew version of these: https://www.npdlink.com/product/reinforcement-plates-shock-tower/199383?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dshock%2Btower%2Breinforcing%2Bplate%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D
  2. As I recall, you have to put the transmission shift lever in low- at least on an automatic. Remove the radio knobs (and nuts?). Take the two screws at the top of the wood grained bezel out, center the heater sliders, grab the bottom of the wood grain bezel and pull out. It has some pins or studs that engage with spring clips to hold it in- just yank on the bottom and watch for clearance to the knobs on the sliders.
  3. I have some sections of a post I wrote that refers specifically to grounds, but it would help to know if you have a tach or not. The dash pad and instrument cluster can easily be removed in less than an hour for access to the dash ground wires. In particular I'm thinking of wire 57 black which is below the cluster with access only from the top.
  4. but think of the fun if you lend her a hand...as it were
  5. Many people recommend Daniel Carpenter from NPD, but ask them what is their best.
  6. Vic, that sounds useful, can you attach the excel file here?
  7. That's interesting and definitely the first time I've heard that. What other suspension mods do you have? Anyone else have this experience?
  8. Here are a couple of references, and its best if you read it from the experts: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/understanding-shelby-arning-drop-changes/29324. https://dazecars.com/dazed/drop.html I've only heard positive things about roller perches. Well OK, some people complain about the cost, but not the ride improvement.
  9. Thanks Ridge, we needed that. Whats ya workin on?
  10. Heres a couple, but since you don't know the amp rating its safest to have it run a relay that runs the pump XF3Z9341-AA: https://www.ebay.com/itm/185037073495 Ford Switch ASY : Automotive - Amazon.com https://www.amazon.com › Ford-XF3Z9341AA-XF3Z-...
  11. I was looking to see if I could find a time vrs current chart for fuse links to compare it to a circuit breaker time/current chart. I haven't been successful yet, but I did find clarification on the selection criteria for fuse links. See my EDIT two posts above. Now it finally makes sense to me.
  12. As you probably know, when the gauge number gets bigger, the wire size gets smaller. The fuse link needs to be smaller than the wire its protecting. In the past I have seen fuse links 2 wire sizes smaller than the wire they are protecting. I just googled it and found two references that say it should be 4 times. That would say a 10ga wire should have an 18ga fuse link (10, 12, 14, 16, 18...). While that is certainly safe for the protected circuit, I tend to think you may get nuisance tripping at 4 times, and personally would go with 2. I base this on Ford's use of a 14ga fuse link on a 10ga wire. EDIT: I did further investigation and found that you have to count ALL wire gauges. Normally we only use the even number gauges, but a fuse link site said to count all even and odd sizes, and the fuse link should be 4 sizes smaller, so my example about Ford above is correct. American Wire Gauge Sizes are 8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17,18, etc. If protecting a 10ga wire the correct fuse link is 14ga. which is four sizes smaller. Mystery solved.
  13. So yours is a swing-away system. Most people disable the swing-away and just use the tilt. West Coast Classic Cougar has a video on the system and sells what parts are available. They no longer rebuild tilt columns, since their expert retired, and use Tony Augustine 816-210-4779, tony6T8cougarguy@gmail.com. If you want to sell that column, please let me know, I'm looking for one.
  14. Tuff Stuff says that the alternator has a Ford style front case, a GM style rear case with heavy duty copper coils, spike resistant diodes, and an external solid state voltage regulator. From experience you know that the regulator can't be connected as the OEM regulator was. This is a combination of parts that doesn't operate the way the old system did, and you will never know what goes on inside their regulator. So, here are my recommendations: 1. Remove or disconnect and tape wires 904, 152, and 38. You will not have an alternator warning light. 2. Connect a 14ga fuse link between wire 37 and the terminal block. Do not bundle the fuse link into a harness with other wires- let it hang loose so if it melts it doesn't destroy other wires or harnesses. Its a fuse so let it do its job. If you need a source for this I can find it. 3. Put a mega fuse between the alternator battery terminal and the terminal block.
  15. I have read that its just regular copper wire- but smaller, so it should blow first in a high amp condition. By chance do you know the gauge sizes for 38 and 38A on the 1970?
  16. Mid, so from your description I'm guessing that wire 38A is the fusible link? Its probably just a wire that is a gauge or two smaller than wire 38.
  17. The techs are not familiar with individual year cars. Most of the car is unprotected- count the number of fuses in the block. Mine has only five fuses. Nothing in the ignition system is fused. The lights have two circuit breakers, but only after the wires get to the light switch. The gauges have nothing, the charging has nothing. The list goes on. Large portions of your main harness is unprotected. IMO a fuse on the alternator is warranted, but suit yourself. Ford did add fuse links somewhere on the 70s, but it's not shown on your diagram.
  18. Rich, you have already stated "The Alternator is running and charging great...no operational issue there. My issue is the Alternator light stays on and will not turn off. I called Tuff Stuff Tech and they told me I did not need to connect the I (ignition) wire (#904 Green/Red Stripe) from the regulator". They have told you to disconnect wire 904. Their regulator is electronic and doesn't function the way the electro-mechanical one does. I would ask them if anything needs to be connected to A, but according their document it doesn't. If you want to know how the OEM system operates, then take the time to read my paper- it is too lengthy to be discussed here. Besides, you're not using it anymore. The Tuff Stuff system is "electronic", while the OEM system is many decades older and "electro-mechanical". A tech on the phone is unlikely to have knowledge of the internal workings of their circuit. Its an apples and oranges comparison. They don't need the same inputs and outputs, and they won't publish details of the internal workings. Welcome to the wonderful world of generic aftermarket parts.
  19. The black wire you are referring to is 38? Power goes from battery+, to the terminal block, to 38, to 37, to the ignition switch B, to C in ON and Start, then back via 904 red/green to the battery+ again? That sounds like it is going nowhere. To alleviate any problems I would just remove 904, since it doesn't do anything anymore. As I mentioned earlier, I don't believe your wire diagram is 100% correct. I have found a number of problems on many wire diagrams- even my own Ford authorized drawing is incorrect in several places.
  20. Did Tuff Stuff say its ok to connect to regulator A and I? Nothing is shown on the instructions that I can see. Most people would put a mega fuse on the 6ga from the alternator to terminal block. Wire 37 is power to most of the car, so if there is a fuse link I would expect it between 37 and 38, or upstream from 38 to the terminal block.
  21. Rick, if you want to understand how the OE system works, go to "How tos" on this forum, and read my paper "How Alternators Work". It will explain both types of systems used on our cars- those with and without the alternator light. Your new regulator doesn't work like the old one and the warning light is just disconnected in your case. Your voltmeter will tell you what is happening, and is much better than the ammeter used on my car. Unfortunately manufacturers try to make this stuff so generic, that their instructions are next to useless. What did you do in step 7? The reason I ask is because you replaced about a 38A alternator for a 140A, and one of the things they don't seem to tell you is that it could smoke Black wires 38 and 38A, if its cranked up all the way during charging. The wire gauge size is just inadequate, however they are short wires so that may save them- but I'll bet they get hot. Most people that install these humongous alternators attach a heavy gauge battery cable to the alternator positive, that goes to a mega fuse (around 200A) and that attaches to another cable and then to the left solenoid terminal. Hopefully Midlife can chime in here, because I don't have a 70 wire diagram and I know that the 70s were the first year to have a fusible links...I'm guessing from the solenoid left terminal to wire 37 and possibly some other wires?? It isn't shown on your diagram so we need that bit of the puzzle before making a thorough recommendation.
  22. My car doesn't have a tachometer so I've never had the opportunity to look at the circuit. Is your's original equipment or aftermarket? Rocketman is one of the shops that repairs classic car instruments. It appears that he converts it from the original current sensing device to voltage sensing: Rocketman's Classic Cougar Innovations https://www.rccinnovations.com
  23. Pricy, >$300 for two. I could only find two reviews. We're not likely to ever find our size with LEDs that are DOT approved.
  24. I've heard good things too, but not tried it since I intend to go with Dakota Digital. I even had a discussion with Metermatch about using it with Dakota gauges, but since neither of us knew what Dakota's interface was exactly, we couldn't determine compatibility.
×
×
  • Create New...