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Mach1 Driver

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Everything posted by Mach1 Driver

  1. You've covered most of the bases here so I have to ask a stupid question- are your fans pushing instead of pulling?
  2. Sorry, I'm not following here about the head gasket- could you elaborate please? I don't see any mention of your timing. Is the Sniper controlling timing or not? I agree with all of rwcstang's comments- what is your actual temperature? Electric fans pull huge amps and require and upgraded alternator. Are you running a serpentine pulley system now? How about some pictures of the radiator/fans/pulleys/shroud so we can get a better idea of your setup? FYI, according to Marti, some 70s received a 351W two barrel instead of the more common and new 351C.
  3. Many places sell brake boosters but they are the wrong ones for our cars. There are several videos by West Coast Classic Cougar on the correct boosters and where to get them rebuilt, or you can buy a rebuilt from them. I would recommend a rebuilt over a new one. He discusses the differences here also: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbW_v_DdEuU&t=50s Here are some resources: 1. Boosterdeweyexchange.com 2. Chockostang is a highly recommended rebuilder of steering components and he recommends: Midwest Remanufacturing 3. The old Global West GM recommends: Karps Power Brake Service 4. Harmon Classic Brakes
  4. I'll pick a Saturday near the end of the month...lets say the 23rd
  5. Mal, there is a post on VMF that is about this very subject, and may interest you: https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/66-ammeter-wiring-or-my-ammeter-doesn’t-work.1214659/page-3. As I mentioned, the harnesses are a little different between the 66 and 69, but the "ammeter" works the same way. In post #41 rreitz mentioned that he added 22" of 12 ga wire to his wire #37 BK/Y which connects directly to the starter solenoid front terminal on a 66. On the 66 wire #37 BK/Y is the shunt wire. The 69 is a little different and #38a Black is the shunt wire, and they added wire #38b Black to it, between it and the solenoid. This makes it more difficult to do what rreitz did. He only had to extend his #37 BK/Y by 22" and connect it back to the starter solenoid. On a 69 we would have to unwrap the harness and find the splice, cut 38a near where it connects to the splice and extend it 22" using 12ga wire. This makes the change much more difficult. Curse you wire 38b!! ;) BTW, you will still need to clean all the contacts that I previously marked in red. Below is the 69 wire diagram with the shunt 38a in blue and the dang nuisance 38b in yellow. If you try this please let us know how it works. Lots of people complain about it, and it would be nice to find a solution for the 69s. Hmmm, maybe I'll ask Midlife if he knows how long wire 38B is. Then we would know how far back we would need to unwrap the harness. Randy (Midlife) knows these harnesses like the back of his hand.
  6. Any of them can fail, but some of the best are: Motorcraft- it is made overseas now but Ford has procedures for qualifying vendors partially based on failure rates. This is what I run. NAPA Echlin Standard Motor Products
  7. Yeah us Yanks are very zen
  8. Here it is in schematic form- you can actually see what its doing here:
  9. Hey Mal, yours actually moves? ;) What we call an ammeter is actually a galvanometer, and yes it can be made to work a little better. Since it passes such a small amount of current you need to clean the connections at the "ammeter", at the flex circuit plug, at the firewall plug, and at the solenoid. Use something like Brasso in the areas marked in red. For a big improvement others have lengthened shunt wire 38A. I've heard different lengths, but adding 22" of the same gauge wire would be a starting point. They all work the same way but the harnesses change from year to year and I've not heard of someone actually doing it to a 69. What they are doing is increasing the resistance of the shunt so that more current flows through the meter instead of around it through the shunt (in blue). Other than that you would need to change it to a voltmeter as you mentioned, but I don't know of one that says "volts". I kinda remember them saying "alternator" but its early morning here and I don't want to wake people up.
  10. it was about once a year...and then I lost count
  11. Lets hope the site isn't just "visiting" and will stick around a while. This is getting most discouraging.
  12. Up at the top left, Store, Donations, and click the donate button. You need a PayPal account. If enough people donate the amount doesn't need to be large... but I lets face it, most people do not donate. When the site was down for an extended period and no one could contact Ben, I asked one of my kids to look at the site in a public- non intrusive way. They have access to a report that can be run on any site that will tell it's activity, and the site doesn't have to be up and running. She said that this site gets lots of activity and many other sites would be envious- we're talking thousands of hits. It seems to be mostly for pictures, wire diagrams. etc. People are looking for information- just like we are, but they aren't willing to pay for the knowledge gained. I'm sure Ben would be grateful for any donation. He doesn't make any money running this site- he looses money. I'm just grateful that he takes his time and money to provide this service. So guys, if you like the content and it has helped you personally, and you want it to continue, then donate based on how it has helped you.
  13. Slow poke! I contributed on 7/1. Lets help the guy out, and get our favorite site back. Edit, I'll give you some slack- hope you're doing OK with the covid.
  14. It sounds like we have essentially the same car, so let me share what my research shows are the problems and some solutions. I haven't done it yet, but all my research shows that Ford Powertrain Applications (FPA) are and excellent if expensive choice for headers. I looked at the Proflo4 also, and it appears to be superior to throttle body injection systems but be advised that you will have to cut a hole in your hood for any air cleaner to fit, even with a drop base. Then of course you need an air scoop over the air cleaner to clean it up aesthetically. The Edelbrock manifold for the PF4 is way too tall for the 351w in this year Mustang, so I'm resigned to using a Sniper. Then the decision of what intake manifold use- don't believe what Edelbrock tells you, the carb pad height for a stock 4V manifold is only 3.00". An Edelbrock Performer RPM 7181 will be 4.80", which would need a drop base air cleaner unless you want a hole in the hood again. Vicfreg runs this manifold with a shaker hood. A 2181 Performer manifold is 4.07" tall. This is a 4150 style with dual plane for square bore carbs. I won't bore you with the measurements and math, but this manifold with a 1.025" tall carb spacer for the PCV connection will fit with a stock air cleaner and have 0.670" clearance to the center hood scoop nuts. The bolts will have to be cut off flush with the nuts. This is with a Sniper which is 3.28" tall. Then the decision of what mufflers, fuel tank and pump- and yes they are related. If you want a car that is quiet enough to converse with your wife, then you may want a transverse muffler. The problem here is the proximity of the transverse muffler to the fuel tank. It's too hot to use a Holley non-return 12-305 pump. The Sniper doesn't measure fuel temp directly which is just asking for trouble, so you need a return line or will get vapor lock. I intend to use a Holley Sniper EFI Conversion Fuel tank. This has an internal pump, hydromat, vent, return, and sender on top of the tank, so you can keep everything away from the transverse muffler. I intend to use bulkhead connectors to run the lines from the trunk to the rear frame rails, then up the inside of Spintech subframe connectors to the front. BTW, I prefer hard lines as much of the way as possible before switching to PTFE hose, and I prefer Fragola Race-Rite Hose. People complain of the noise of the injectors firing. The Sniper uses batch firing instead of sequential firing as OEMs use. The solution to this is using a Radium Fuel Pulse Damper. Just my $.03 ;)
  15. I have read that Remflex graphite header gaskets may help.
  16. Thanks, I know I could use a dropped base. My question is if the Stock Air Cleaner will fit over a Sniper without clearance issues. I like the old stock blue bucket and want to continue with that look. Height isn't an issue if I use the correct intake manifold. I'm concerned with the width of the Sniper and the linkage banging into the bottom of the stock air cleaner. It doesn't appear that anyone has used the stock air cleaner, but I suspect its because they use a higher intake and have to switch to a dropped base or hit the hood. As far as the throttle modification goes, I was referring to Holley's throttle lever extension. In this Holley video he mentions people using progressive linkage, and I found that EFI System Pro sells the progressive linkage. I'm concerned that if I use the throttle extension that it will hit the bottom of the stock air cleaner, because it is sticking up higher. In this video Holley doesn't like the use of progressive linkage, but doesn't say why. https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/sniper_efi/ignition_and_fuel_systems/sniper_efi_service_components/parts/20-16
  17. A few months ago RPM talked about cutting the flange on his headers to allow the tubes to flex individually. I realize I'm showing the passenger side, and you wouldn't cut the gasket too, just the flange, but you get the idea. That last tube isn't going to bend on these shorties with the collector right there so you may need to free up the others to get some wiggle room when they get hot. Hopefully Bob will show the picture of his fix and discuss the results (it was probably done to a different brand of headers though). I suspect that cutting the flange would be your last resort and an expensive experiment, but if nothing else works....its the old problem of the unintended consequences of aftermarket designs and parts.
  18. I want the stock look with the Sniper hiding below, and I know a 4150 Sniper is wider than a 4 barrel carburetor, but nowhere does it give a spec. It’s one of those things that I don’t want to be surprised about after I buy the dang thing. I have a 69 with a 351W and I’m wondering about the air cleaner banging into the linkage or top corners of the Sniper. The air cleaner is 5-1/8 as is the air horn on a Sniper so at least that will fit. And it will fit height wise under the hood with a stock 4 barrel manifold or an Edelbrock 2181. Did you have an overly sensitive throttle? Holley sells a throttle extension lever to make the pedal less sensitive, but that could cause more problems. I’m hoping someone has tried this and will please relate your experience. Thanks
  19. Thanks, please let us know how that sounds
  20. If you have a 1969, then there is a wire diagram in the How Tos section below, also a Schematic, posts #1 and #11 in the list. Black with red wire 385 goes from the flasher to the turn switch, supplying power to any four of the corner bulbs. That's where it is getting the power to the short. But no black or brown wire is shown on the wire diagram going to the turn signal switch, shown on pages 2-E24 and 25 of the diagram, or page 3 of the schematic. Schematics don't show wire numbers- they are meant to simplify the circuit so you can understand it, while wire diagrams actually show the wire routing, plugs, colors and wire numbers and how the car is actually wired.
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