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Mach1 Driver

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Everything posted by Mach1 Driver

  1. That's impressive. I saw the spaghetti on page 4 and another shot of the fuse block (and computer?) on page 5. Is that an aftermarket harness are you using? I've thought about putting the fuses in the trunk for easier access. How did you route/hide all the wire in the floor areas through the cabin? I didn't see any photos.
  2. I haven't crawled under to compare, but that last picture doesn't look "normal" to me- how bout it guys?
  3. Question, on your console in the picture above, behind the seat belt holder... what are the two knobs/joysticks? I've seen them before on Shelby's but never identified them.
  4. Biden and the Dems happened. Uncontrolled spending. Here, let me give you some money. Two centuries ago, a somewhat obscure Scotsman named Tytler made this profound observation: "A democracy cannot exist as a permanent form of government. It can only exist until the majority discovers it can vote itself largess out of the public treasury.
  5. Dude- get it painted. Don't do it for you, do it for the car. You are its caretaker. ;)
  6. Yes that's the pulley I'm referring to. I'm guessing that the flapping issue only presents itself when the old style compressors are engaged, since they have a jerky piston motion (mine vibrates horribly but continues to operate) versus the Sanden which is often referred to as rotary. I've never removed the pulley to investigate. I found this about the Sanden: Even though it is commonly referred to as a rotary, it is not. The Sandens are so popular because they operate smoothly, with a minimum amount of torque required to operate, because the load is distributed over multiple short-stroke cylinders. ... These characteristics make the Sanden an almost ideal performance compressor.
  7. The stock AC has an additional idler pulley on the drivers side, and I'm not quite sure why its there. It doesn't route the belt around anything. Maybe the long run of the belt from the crank to the AC makes the belt flap around if its not there?
  8. Rich, that is a well done and thought-out belt system. All that contact with the crank and alternator pulleys certainly gives it a lot more traction than the stock set-up. I'm curious how well it does when that 140A alternator is at full charge and everything is hot. I think you have a winner there. My only thought is that the water pump and fan only have about a 1/4 turn of one belt pulling them, and that same belt is driving the PS, but road testing will tell the tale. Have you put any miles on it yet? Please keep us posted.
  9. Does it have anything to do with the coriolis effect ;)
  10. FYI for those of you with 69s, they use 5-3/4" lights. The outer lights have high and low filaments and the inner lights only have high. A 5-3/4" halogen bulb from Sylvania for instance is still very reasonable in price, with the outer H5006 having 35w on Low and 35w on Hi, while the inner bulb H5001 is 50w. The halogens give significantly more light output than the OEM incandescent bulbs, but they have the same electrical characteristics (same wattage/amperage) so while the don't require the use of relays, it would lower the strain on your 50+ year old light switch and the related wiring and connectors. Also the lights should be somewhat brighter using relays, since they are closer to the battery and less wire is involved (less voltage drop), and you can use bigger wire than the factory did to help in that regard also. They are DOT approved so there is no danger of blinding on-coming drivers. LEDs have the advantage of using much less power, but until Holley came out with their new lights, they weren't DOT approved (in the 5-3/4") and they are much more expensive at $720 for four. For me, halogen are still the only reasonable way to go at only $47.50 for the four. There are zero fitment issues with the halogen H5006 and H5001, because they are the PAR46 bulb size and terminals that were originally designed for our cars. Its truly plug-and-play. BTW, the reason the H5006 has a 35w high and low beam is because the filaments are at a different focal point in relation to the reflector and lens. That's to make the high beam reach out further... it's aimed higher.
  11. I have an Auto Twirler that I bought off Craigs List. They make lift arms for a classic Mustang. This may be a bit difficult to envision, because the rotis is currently in storage with the lift arms facing down so they take up less room. The arm is positioned on the rotis counter-clockwise 90 degrees and the circled brackets are positioned up. A bolt goes through the two holes and into the rear spring mount. You can see that the whole bracket can slide in and out on the arm as needed and bolted in place.
  12. You can't go wrong with National Part Depot, and Virginia Mustang gets a lot of kudos. CJ often gets negative comments. Summit and Jegs can be ok.
  13. Welcome, and we would love to help you spend your money. As you probably know, the suspension on our cars is from a Falcon, but with the right tweaks you can make it feel like a new car without breaking the bank. Everyone will have their own opinions, but I would do the following: 1. Definitely do the Shelby/Arning drop- the most it can cost is the price of a drill template. It only drops the front about 5/8" but will really make a difference in handling. 2. Stock style upper and lower control arms, and if you can afford it go with a spherical bearing on the lower. Watch the Open Tracker Racing video, or check Street or Track- they are good people that won't try to over sell you. Just tell them what you want the car to do. 3. Roller spring perches will do wonders to free-up the front suspension. I would do the single, not the double roller perch- see the OTR video. 4. Adjustable strut rods. The video will show you how the stock struts behave with all that flexing and forward/back motion. I didn't include it but there is another video showing the improvement which eliminated all that. Multiple vendors make these, here is one: https://streetortrack.com/street-or-track-adjustable-strut-rods 5. Coil and leaf springs- see the Eaton video by Jeff Ford 6. I would go with QA1 or Viking hydraulic shocks (not gas shocks)- also discussed in the Eaton and OTR Videos. You may want to get the Boss 302 Chassis Modification booklet. It talks about the Arning drop and lots of other mods that are just for racing (not my thing). The shock towers tend to bend inward, so you'll need an export brace, something like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c5zz16a052e#overview. Many people also put in a Monte Carlo bar that goes from side to side, just in front of the shock towers, but I don't think you need it with the export brace and weld-in kits mentioned below. And the weld-in kit will keep your towers from stress cracking: https://opentrackerracing.com/product/shock-tower-repair-reinforcement-kit-1967-1970/ There are several videos by Eaton discussing springs and shocks- here is one:
  14. Don't you love the look into open headers in that first pic? I noticed you wrapped the pipes to keep the temp down- are the pipes stainless? If not I've heard that it traps water and you get rust.
  15. That's the first double-v pulley I've noticed on a classic Stang AC system. Is that a common thing on the aftermarket units?
  16. There are three belts. The closest belt to the engine goes around the crank, water pump, and the alternator. The second forward goes to the crank, water pump and PS. The third goes to the crank, bottom idler, AC, and top adjustable idler.
  17. It is recommended that any alternator over 95 amps have either a serpentine belt system or two v-belts, so as not to slip. If you change to serpentine, then you'll need to ditch the fan and go with electric cooling. Personally, I would ditch the 140A alternator and get a 95A. It should be more than enough power. Ya, its a bummer, but a case of more not being better. My bone stock 351w with PS and AC has a three groove pulley on the crank, and a two on the water pump.
  18. on the schematic its pretty simple: on the wire diagram its looks like this, where it plugs into the circuit board: Is the wire harness stock or aftermarket? Given your description, I don't think its up on the circuit board, but down at the dimmer, with wire 34 connected to low instead of Hi. Its definitely not the light switch, and is miss-wired. 34= green/black stripe, 13= red/black stripe, and 15= red/yellow stripe. This may also help, for a non-tach car its on pages 13 and 14 of this (The tach car is there too, just later on). Holler if you need more help:
  19. I saw this today- its definitely not DOT approved, but with some messing around it may be acceptable (you don't want to blind oncoming drivers). You could have four headlights for the price of one Holley. From Capt Kent on VMF I have a 67 GT500. It uses four 5 3/4 lamps as well. I used these. I had to make a few adjustments with the stand offs on the back. It's not difficult. I threw the H4 bulbs supplied in the trash and ordered the LEDS below. https://www.ebay.com/itm/253210377279?hash=item3af483bc3f:g:jNMAAOSwsi9eWsaw https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TQLK6SH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  20. The two solenoid approach is how Ford did it for a while. It prevents starter run-on after releasing the key. What happens if the starter is a permanent magnet type is that as soon as power is turned off and its still spinning it becomes a generator, back-feeding enough to keep it engaged for an annoyingly long time.
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