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Mach1 Driver

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Everything posted by Mach1 Driver

  1. Mach1 Driver

    Ignition kill switch with key

    Go to your local auto parts store- Auto Zone, Advance or the like. 30-50 amps is way more than you need. It will be bigger and bulkier and more difficult to hide. 15-20 amps is adequate as the ignition coil you are disabling will probably be below the 9A range. All you need is SPST (two terminals). More terminals are ok but again take up more space and you will only use two.
  2. Mach1 Driver

    Ignition kill switch with key

    I guess you could use an aftermarket door lock system for under $40 to do the switching. This shows how a factory system (and presumably an aftermarket system also) is easily hacked:
  3. Mach1 Driver

    Turn Signal Side Markers... question

    The third light in series will help brighten-up the marker lights and all should return to normal operation. I suspect that's why they only did this for one year- one little change to the circuit and odd things occur.
  4. Mach1 Driver

    Turn Signal Side Markers... question

    We need all the facts. So its a 70 and the marker light wiring isn't modified, and it has incandescent lights? If the above is true then look at the attached pdf. The "left marker" lights are in series with the left front turn, left dash, and left hood lights. Under this condition the left marker lights should be bright. If you've modified something then all bets are off and your guess is as good as mine. For everyone else not following this, the 70 has an oddball system where the marker lights flash alternately with the turn signals, but only when the headlights or park lights are on. 70 MACH EXT LITES 3,4 SIMPLIFIED.pdf
  5. Mach1 Driver

    Ignition kill switch with key

    Here is what I believe the easiest way to disable the car. You can use any kind of switch you like- toggle, key, etc. What sort of coil do you have? I ask because the switch has to have a high enough amp rating to run the coil. The car will crank but not start.The disadvantage of this circuit is that if the ignition switch is left on by the thief, then the coil is left on, and could over heat, but I've been using this system on various cars since the 60s with no problem. It works by shorting the points. If the points don't open and close, then the coil doesn't work- it must be pulsing DC to create a continuing spark. KILL SWITCH (3).pdf
  6. Mach1 Driver

    Turn Signal Side Markers... question

    remind us- is this a 69 or 70?
  7. maybe this: https://www.harborfreight.com/45-piece-threaded-insert-riveter-kit-1210.html?cid=paid_google|*PLA+-+All+Products+-+Lower+Sales+Items|New+Products+-+(2)+Price+%2410-30|1210&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&mkwid=s|pcrid|318476002941|pkw||pmt||pdv|c|slid||product|1210|pgrid|63088204546|ptaid|aud-454408222021:pla-297893668988|&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8_zux8DU4AIVELbICh13WA7iEAQYAyABEgKyDPD_BwE
  8. Mach1 Driver

    New welder

    Its time to dump my ancient stick welder and get a new machine, and the Black Friday deals are luring me in. I've been eyeballing the Miller Multimatic 215 which does MIG, TIG, and stick. Its a hobbyist machine since it only does DC TIG and uses a lift start. With a spool gun you can MIG aluminum. Current deals will get you both torches, a spool gun and a descent helmet for around $1900 from Bakers Gas. HOWEVER, Miller just introduced a new Multimatic called the 220. It is a definite step up from the 215. The 220 does AC and DC TIG so you can TIG aluminum and it has high frequency TIG start. It has a nifty little feature where you can take it off automatic and set it to pulse at .7 to 1 second so you can learn the rhythm to add the rod. This machine is available with both torches and a descent helmet for a little under $3k. Neither one could be considered cheap. I'm concerned that I may have a tough time learning TIG, as it does take a lot of practice and a bit of coordination to use both hands and a foot pedal. I guess if you disregard brand and price there isn't much to talk about- just go with the 220. The brand is good and the price is high, but is it worth it? What would you TIG welders do?
  9. Mach1 Driver

    Car Mounted on Rotisserie. Questions?

    Ridge, thanks for that picture of the bottom of a vert- that really shows what I wanted to see. I'd like to do inner convertible rockers to my fast back and add the boxes to the bottom as shown here. Since we're all about hijacking threads here it begs the question- is the exhaust routed next to the driveshaft and above the plate that connects the two boxes? If so, could you fit 3" pipes in there?
  10. Mach1 Driver

    Car Mounted on Rotisserie. Questions?

    Machspeed, could you share some details on the screw jack? Like the thread diameter and pitch, rod length, the lengths of the inner and outer tubes, and the length of the crank. Does it crank easily? Would you change anything? I assume it has a nut welded to the top of the inner tube, and a nut welded to the rod near the top, and there are a number of ways to attach the top nut/crank. The rod must spin freely in the top cap- and never fall through.
  11. Mach1 Driver

    Car Mounted on Rotisserie. Questions?

    This link is what I assume to be Ridge's original thread on the rotis: https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/build-your-own-universal-rotisserie.882074/. Machspeed, would you like to fill us in on the differences? I don't understand the basics I guess; why the hydraulic jack and the screw jack? I would guess the screw jack is for fine balancing and the hydraulic is to lift it up near the spin position? How high does the car start off the ground- did you have it on a rolling table or something?
  12. Hmm good catch. It looks like it may be bolted horizontally all the way in the back- frame rail to frame rail.
  13. The Roadster Shop's complete chassis is a novel idea. It seems to go over the front frame rails and inboard of the rear rails- and leaves the originals in place. Its a bit pricey at $12k. I prefer to leave my car closer to stock with improvements (ok, you can call them bandaids) to the original. This is pretty cool though. I wonder how it would hold up under chassis torsion tests?
  14. Mach1 Driver

    Parking brake brake warning light

    It always annoyed me that the parking brake didn't have a light so I designed a simple little circuit with two DPDT relays and a chime to take care of that. It will chime 1) If you leave the head lights on and open the drivers door or 2) if EM brake is on and the ignition is on. Also turns on a light, 3) if the dual brake switch is triggered. Since none of this stuff is visible it could look stock with the possible exception of the light. I intend to use the "check brake" light in the Dakota Digital gauges, but you could use the one in the stock cluster for the dual brake switch.
  15. Mach1 Driver

    69 hood pin lanyards lay flat ?

    I have had many sets over nearly 50 years and they always laid flat. I think Bobs picture above shows a perfect installation. If they actually lay flat they will over time wear a pattern in the paint; at least they did on mine.
  16. Mach1 Driver

    Brake warning switch trivia

    FYI the stock wiring:BRAKE CIRCUIT.pdf
  17. Mach1 Driver

    Gas Tank Pressure

    My 69 California Mach has the notch in the fill tube near 12:00 and the setup like shown by Brian Conway. 70 California cars had a different tank with a bulge at the top and the first vapor recovery system made of plastic that eventually hooked up to the air cleaner. It was kludge and is difficult to find replacements for the now brittle parts. After 1970 vapor recovery went nation wide. Yes the Shelbys had the problem of the exhaust tips being directly below the fuel fill so they added a vent tube that just routed it into the rear frame rail. It is very common for gas to pour out the back through the vent notch in the fill tube when under hard acceleration. There is an episode of Bitchin Rides that shows it happening, although they make no mention of it.
  18. Mach1 Driver

    Fastback inner rockers

    Currently the only way to put inner rockers into a fastback or coupe is to use remanufactured sheet metal parts for a convertible. Yes it would be much easier to add sub frame connectors, but the only test available shows that SFCs do zero for torsional stability. When FORD decided how to strengthen the convertible they used inner rockers. The current method looks like this: see pics There will more posts to show what I propose as an alternative. This is a test to see how visible the drawings are when inserted here. That went well, more pictures to come!!
  19. Mach1 Driver

    Fastback inner rockers

    That's a good video. At the beginning at 0:28 he talks about beaming and torsioning testing and that most SFCs are just good for "ballast in the boot after you cut them up". If aslanefe, our resident aeronautical engineer will chime in here (I'm an electrical engineer and didn't deal much with structures) he could tell you how thick a single plate of steel would need to be to equal the strength of a rectangular steel tube. I'd rather not revisit my college days in my retirement to look that up. If you notice, starting at 3:35 they welded in a hat shaped beam, turning it into a rectangular steel tube. Good stuff, and it is further verification of the torsion test shown much earlier in this string. SFCs without bracing from side to side do next to nothing for torsion.
  20. Mach1 Driver

    What did you do to/for your Mustang today?

    Because it takes lots of gold to keep them running ;)
  21. I found a post on VMF by Klutch that modifies HF's parts washer to add an electric water heater element. He found that Oil Eater works OK when cold but very well when heated. I took his lead and added a few more modifications to make parts the washer easier to use and last longer. See the attached Word.doc. This was written in LibreOffice on a Ubuntu operating system and then converted to Word. I opened it on a Windows machine and all was fine for me- I hope for you too. Parts washer.doc
  22. BSWOR you should consider pinning this post also. Since completing my 1969 Mach1 Schematic (see A REAL Schematic) I have seen a lot of confusion about 1970 turn and marker lights. I didn't know they were different than the 69, but they sounded interesting so I investigated to see if I wanted to upgrade. After reviewing the circuit I decided to leave well enough alone, but hopefully the attached three pages will help explain their operation for those poor souls with 70s ;) 1970 MUSTANG EXTERIOR LIGHTS PAGE 1.pdf 1970 MUSTANG EXTERIOR LIGHTS PAGE 2.pdf 1970 MUSTANG EXTERIOR LIGHTS PAGE 3.pdf
  23. Mach1 Driver

    1970 Mustang Exterior Lights (turn signals)

    FYI, Midlife is the harness expert and runs a harness refab business. He says there are quite a few wire changes in the 70 Stangs. The ones I'm vaguely familiar with: it is the first year to have fusible links, the turn signal change, and Mid said there were changes to the dash harness I believe. In my opinion It would be best to find a good 70 wire diagram.
  24. Mach1 Driver

    Modifying Harbor Freight's 20 gal. Parts Washer

  25. Mach1 Driver

    Fastback inner rockers

    Yes those programs have been around for years and I have used them also. However in my opinion it would not be "easy". In the CAD programs I have used, first you need to make an accurate 3D model of all the chassis parts. Then you have to connect them together in an assembly (with lots spot welds), and then you can do a structural analysis. I wonder how many thousands of hours that would take? Ford never did it because the technology wasn't around then. Maybe Dynacorn could do it now, but they are in the business of supplying replacement parts, not redesigning the car. But boy it sure would be nice.