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Mach1 Driver

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Everything posted by Mach1 Driver

  1. Mach1 Driver

    Riots

    So how would this work? You raise money like Limbaugh did with Betsy Ross T-shirts to fund a conservative in some place like Seattle...since only the liberals want to defund the police?
  2. it looks like the kit comes with the movement, some gears and an instructional CD?
  3. If you still have points, see post 2. This is by far the best way to disable the car. It shorts out the points and the only way to circumvent it is to find the wire, and disconnect it. 'The usual method of "adding" a jumper from the battery won't go around it. The thief doesn't usually have the luxury of the time required to figure out what has been done and correct it. If your ignition system isn't stock, well, I haven't investigated Pertronix, but I do know a safe and easy way to disable a MSD ignition system. If I was a thief and wanted to steal a stock old Ford, I would have three things in my pocket: a jumper wire, a screwdriver, and a rotor. That doesn't require much forethought.
  4. Care to give us more details? Like how big an opening and how far does the coat hanger stick below the opening? Any pointers would be appreciated.
  5. Mach1 Driver

    Riots

    because half the electorate is ignorant
  6. The hood latch for a 1976 era Ford truck bolts right into our Mustangs and has a key lock on the release handle in the passenger compartment. You will need a helper spring to pop the hood up, but a quick trip to the junk yard will get you one. The spring mounts in the center of the hood near the latch. It all looks factory, cause it is, just for another model.
  7. That looks pretty good, but it doesn't appear to be available here in the US
  8. that's looking real sharp mystang- what color is that?
  9. Yeah, but we all expect you to throw a zinger in there just to make us grin. You're way below on the zinger quotient.
  10. The path is from the rheostat on the light switch to the 4A fuse in the block, and then to all of these lights: ash tray, heater, radio, two clock lights and 8 dash lights. Put your voltmeter on an easy light to get to like the ash tray- it should be close to 12v with the brightness turned all the way up. If it isn't I would check for corroded terminals on the 4A fuse (Mid can help you with those). If you get 12v at the ashtray, but not on the dash, then like Mid suggests it must be the connector to the circuit board in the dash.
  11. Yep.They typically use a jumper wire from the battery to the coil positive post, then use a screw driver to short from the solenoid positive post to the start terminal and its gone in less than 60 seconds.
  12. I'm not aware of a safe way to disable Pertronix (that doesn't cause more problems)... there is for MSD. Yes I would disable the fuel pump. Too much is never enough for me- I lock the hood, disable the ignition, fuel, lock the transmission and have GPS ;) But even then a tow truck can drag it away on the front wheels, so I tend to back into parking spots. Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean they aren't out to get my Stang.
  13. I'll be doing Graphic Express. I don't like reflective stripes so will do customs in their gloss black #12 non-reflective. They also have matte black, but it has a warning not to wax.
  14. The radio is normally on fuse 1, which is 20A and runs the turn signals, backup lights and radio. You probably have a bad connection at the fuse, but it could be further downstream. I believe that Midlife can help you with the fuse clips.
  15. The above is the easiest way to add a kill switch. For the engine to run the points must open and close for the magnetic field in the coil to build up and collapse and thus produce a high voltage spark. The kill switch when closed makes it act as though the points aren't opening. I wouldn't worry about the coil overheating if the ignition is left on with the switch closed- this condition exists normally if the points are closed and the ignition is left on. That happens eight times for every revolution of the distributor, so it is quite possible that the engine is stopped with the points closed. I've used this method for over 50 years with no problem. If you want to get a little more exotic you can look up other methods right here on this forum- like using a magnetic reed switch ;)
  16. I stumbled upon these- they look like they would work: https://corvetteparts.com/item/bezel-pair-seatbelt-outlet-at-roof-trim-black-1978-1982. This is the seatbelt arrangement that is sometimes used: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-sb3pbkpbsb, but if you look at the end of the belt that attaches to the left of the drivers seat- its the bracket on the bottom right, I'm wondering why it isn't more decorative? Its intended to swing back to get the belt out of the way when a rear passenger gets in. Does someone make a more attractive seatbelt end that swings?
  17. Well its a solid steel bar that is put in a mill then drilled, machined and taped. They probably only do a few at a time so it takes time for the setups and operations. It's not magic if you have the equipment but it isn't stamped out in one hit. You're paying for the labor to turn a solid chunk of steel into something that's useful. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
  18. Since only PA knows what their pseudo regulator is doing, they are the only ones who can advise you, but it seems to me that their regulator and perhaps the alternator need replacing. All measurements show low voltage at F, but A and S are OK.
  19. No a fuse link should not affect the output as long as its big enough to carry the current and all connections are tight. The size of the wire going from the alternator to the starter solenoid post has to be big enough to carry the current. That is dependent on the size of the alternator- ask PA Performance how big it should be, but it will be much larger than anything in the stock harness. How much voltage does PA say should be on F? What do you have on A? It should be 12v or higher when charging.
  20. Its dependent on the weight oil, bearing clearances and the pump. I wouldn't drive it until you put a mechanical gauge on it to check oil pressure. That sounds very low.
  21. I can't speak for the 70, but the ground on the 69 is prove out for the dual brake warning system.
  22. The 69 comes with a plug to the alternator, so if you don't have one then a previous owner has made some changes. The PA instructions are unclear to the point of making no sense. Lets go down their list: 1. Ok disconnect the battery ground wire 2. Here is where the screwey-ness begins. There are only three wires in the alternator plug- 26 black/red has a ring terminal that gets attached to chassis with the bottom regulator attaching screw. That's the ground. Wire 38 black goes to battery + (that's B+). The last wire #35 Orange which goes to the regulator F (field) terminal. There is no ST or stator wire. 3-8 Ok 9. The yellow wire from the plug in #8 is connected to alternator B+. It doesn't say to connect wire 38 black in #2 there also, perhaps that will come later. 10. Connect white/black from plug in #8 to stator tap on alternator- Ok. 11. There is no ST wire, so there is nothing to tape. 12. "Connect FLD wire to NEW green/red wire in kit". That instructs to connect 35 orange (from #2 ) to the green/red wire from their plug in #8. 13. Now connect 38 black B+ wire to alternator B+ (I mentioned that in #9) 14. Connect ground 26 black/with red stripe to chassis at bottom regulator attaching screw. The radio suppression capacitor is also attached with the same screw. 15. OK. Now FYI, wire 904 green/red stripe goes into regulator plug S (stator). This same wire goes several other places- it comes from ignition switch C which is on in start and run. It connects to the infamous pink resistor wire there (but that's another story), goes to the firewall plug, where it connects to 640 r/y that goes up to the dash printed circuit, and from the firewall plug it goes through to the engine compartment and over to the regulator S terminal. So PA's pseudo external regulator does have B+ supplied to it via wire 904 with the ignition in the run and start positions. You may want to check for 12v there in those conditions. I have seen pictures of the inside of the PA's external "regulator" and no it isn't a regulator but has several components that requires its use to make their alternator operate. I think it has several diodes and resistors, but not much
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