Mach1 Driver

Thanks, that looks like a cool tool:

What tool in particular are you referring to? Belt tension?

Just saw a thread on VMF about this. Most like Truetrac, since there are no clutches, and they are very smooth. A locking diff is downright nasty going around corners. Personally if you are going to put that much cash into the diff, I'd go all the way and switch to a 9". https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/best-traction-lock-differential-assembly.1228092/page-3?post_id=11016895#post-11016895

From the Chassis Assembly Manual: Standard suspension 27.02" GT & IMP, Handling 36.72" (obviously an error- it's probably 26.72") Competition 26.62" all are +1.00, -0.70 Mine is still stock with 14" rims and 27.375".

Oh yeah, that was the article I found to increase the sensitivity of the ammeter. I still intend to play with that and let you all know how that worked. In the article he doesn't mention to first clean the contacts in the firewall plug, as is mentioned in other articles. Our cars also have the plug going to the flex circuit added in there. His method was to increase the length of the shunt (wire 38A in our cars), thereby increasing its resistance and forcing more current through the ammeter. The theory is solid and should work with no problem (easy for me to say), and I'll let you know the details... just don't hold your breath ;)

I had a wooden double garage door that sagged in the middle and was high enough at the ends to let the little buggers to get in. I replaced it with a steel door 3-5 years ago and haven't had a problem since. I used glue traps when I had the problem.

Probably the most common complaint. Personally I wouldn't mess with what I consider the most important system on the car. You could go with manual brakes, but I would stick with the combination of parts that Henry's engineers selected. I have low expectations for aftermarket parts.

The video above is for the 1500w which sells for around $4k. The 3000w sells for around $9k. Those are a little above my price range!

I'm pretty particular and don't like everything even my favorite groups do, but its mostly rock. This is from my USB playlist: America Beach Boys Beatles Bobby Darin Booker T & the MGs Creedence Clearwater Criss Cross Cyndi Lauper Del Shannon Doors Eagles Elton John Enya Eurythemics Firefall Fleetwood Mac Gerry & the Pacemakers Journey Kansas Looking Glass Louis Armstrong Procol Harum Redbone Rolling Stones Simon & Garfunkel Spandau Ballet Tears for Fears The Animals The Cars The Fleetwoods The Moody Blues The Police

I Googled the name- is this the correct machine?

Do you mind sharing what sharpener you use?

That is up to the owners of both sites, and the owner here is almost always absent and darn near impossible to get ahold of, so don't hold your breathe.

Do a search on NPDs site for "heater hose fitting" and a bunch will pop up.

Dang, if you find him or a substitute please let us know. I've got a full set of drills (number and letter) from Little Machine Shop, but they're low quality and a very big disappointment. They have lousy cutting tips and worst of all, don't run true. I just replaced one of them with the following. It appears to be much better quality, but is still Chinese and I haven't used it yet. I'll let you know when I chuck one of these up in the mill. It's sold on Amazon: IVY Classic 01553 No. 53 Wire Gauge Drill Bit, M2 High-Speed Steel, 135-Degree Split Point, 1/Card Edit: it easily went through 0.187" mild steel and ran true, so its a big improvement over the LMS bits

I just got a Polar Air by Eaton. The dang things cost about twice what they did 5 years ago. The thing I like about this one is that the 2 Stage units turn about half the speed of single stage units and are quieter. I haven't got it installed yet, but am working on it. What they don't tell you anywhere in the instructions is that any wire run over 50 feet has to be 6ga. They put a sticker on the tank. Since it isn't magnetic start they apparently get a low voltage start condition if the wire isn't big enough, frying the motor. This thing is a monster... I'd show you pictures but.... And since we all love a 56 F100, here's a pic of my neighbor's new purchase.

I posted some pictures in your post on VMF. There is an insulator that goes on top of the metal housing before the flex circuit is attached.

You can say VMF without being banned. We all spend most of our time over there now anyway, since we haven't had pictures here in the last two years. RIGHT GUYS? Maybe Ben will see this and finally do something about it? Who am I kidding

Sorry, I've never seen that bezel. I have a Mach1 and they all have the deluxe interior with round clock. You might try West Coast Classic Cougar.

One of the guys on VMF (cougar70) says his car with 3G and alternator light has a very faint light when the key is on and the engine off. He wants it to be brighter. He didn't use the PA Performance converter, so he doesn't have the diodes, but I don't see how that would help. Has anyone else experienced this problem? I'm thinking that the old 15 ohm resistor and 1895 bulb combination aren't optimized for the 3Gs internal regulator. My car doesn't have the alternator light (its the ammeter version) so I haven't seen this problem and my car isn't an ideal candidate to experiment on...but that wouldn't stop me ;)

We have seen many versions of how to do this over the years. I have compiled as much of that information into one document as possible, covering 1965-70. Every year except 66 has two types of charging systems; one with an ammeter, and one with an alternator charging light. The 66 only has an ammeter. In this document there are two charging system wire diagrams for every type; the first diagram shows the stock wiring with a 1G alternator. The second diagram shows the 3G alternator and the new wiring. This way you can compare the two and make sure you get it right. Most forums don't allow uploading of large files, so I parked several useful documents on Google Drive. Using the link below, you have free access to all the documents in this directory: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10FqYlsGT1XXr8B5TCF9WAASkU4vdPtuJ?usp=sharing Look for “3G Alternator swap onto a classic Mustang” The document is 18 pages, and I would have included the “Contents” page below IF PICTURES WORKED.

It looks like they aren't cheap: https://www.npdlink.com/1965-1973-mustang/interior/dash-panel-dash-pad/clock-trip-controls

This from RPM: Just found out that on another site I visit when the option to post pics doesn't work, the site owner let the photo posting option expire, and monies are due. I know its darn near impossible to get the site owner's attention, but maybe the best approach is to have have our moderators Bob and Phil each send emails to Ben? I'm sure it wouldn't be appreciated if we publicly revealed his email address. Could we have a show of hands please- Who Wants The Pictures Back? With enough support I'm sure that the money issue can be resolved. BTW, from a users standpoint it appears that the spamming/scamming/phishing is much improved- is that really the case, or are you moderators still really busy keeping it cleaned up? How would having the ability to post pictures again impact that issue? I think we all know that it is possible to post pictures here if they are hosted on another site, but that puts an unwanted burden on the picture poster by adding time, money, and inconvenience to the experience.

OK, see new topic

You'd have to unwrap the tape, and there is a very low likelihood its the splice. The firewall plug is behind the fuse box and just loads of fun to get to.

Well SHEEEittt