Jump to content

foothilltom

Members
  • Content Count

    771
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

foothilltom last won the day on May 2

foothilltom had the most liked content!

About foothilltom

  • Rank
    Resto-Mod Squad
  • Birthday 11/19/1962

Converted

  • Biography
    Resto-mod hobbyist
  • Location
    Auburn, CA
  • Interests
    Flying, cars, stuff
  • Occupation
    Software geek

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Interesting...no mods at all? Bell fit in the cowel? Same drive shaft, x-member, blah blah blah? I suppose I'll keep that in mind if my rebuild fails me. Thanks.
  2. Hey guys, just for "closure" (as often there is none in these threads), I chose to sell the 2nd gen C4 I had bought as a stop-gap (per my original description). Son limped the car up from LA and I set about re-building his original C4 first gen tranny over a 3 week period. Never had done that before, so I was quite uneasy. Took my time, took a zillion photos, and found at least 3 significant issues that would have explained the bad behavior. Anyway, C4 is back in, new servo, o-rings, bands, clutches, steel, thrust washers, bushings, seals, etc. and the Stang is back on the road. Only set us back the price of the master rebuild kit so I'm going to call it good for now. I'm sort of trivializing a rebuild that my hair standing on end at times, but it all worke dout. Thanks again for all your input. Tom
  3. James?  Is that you?

  4. Hey guys, thanks for the responses. Like anything, you learn as you go and I just learned that buying what I thought would be a "straight up, bolt-up, replacement" to buy some time was probably not well thought out on my part. This C4 came with a torque converter, so at least I'm covered in terms of the spline difference in this generation C4. I was concerned about going with a C5 for fear of needing to do a lot of modifications, but it sounds like (from dcm0123's memory) I'll need to be doing some ahem, modifications to the tunnel to make the larger bell-housing fit. Maybe that'll go easy, but anytime the sledge is coming out, it's probably a sign of some bad planning. I understood the C5's have the lock-up converter, but I've also read that the early C5's had issues with the lock-up? Anyway, I got tunnel vision trying to get a straight swap to buy time for me to do a careful rebuild of the original tranny, but should have stopped long enough to think about all the improvements that have come Maybe I'll just unload this 1971 vintage C4 and start poking around for a C5 or open up the whole spectrum of AOD, etc. Thanks again.
  5. Hello my brethren. Damn, it's been a long time since I posted here. I hope you're all alive and happy. My question is regarding "fitment" and compatibility of a 2nd generation C4 (1972 to be precise) with a 1969 coupe. Filling in some details... original 302 swapped out for a 351W, shorty headers some years ago original 1969 C4 stayed in car, was never super awesome, recently slipping bad, fluid smells burnt, etc. original C4 absolutely needs a rebuild For logistical reasons (son uses this as his daily), I decided to buy a tranny that aledgedly runs good with the plan to quickly swap out the ailing original C4, put this one in, and then buy some breathing room for me to rebuild the original C4. Hence my question about compatibility and fitment. Ideally, it won't require drive shaft alterations, but I do wonder if the different bell-housing, dipstick into pan type tranny may pose fit issues with shorty headers, for example. In summary, does anybody have any direct experience with this, knowledge of physical dimensions being mostly the same (or not) between the 1st and 2nd generation C4? Thanks very much in advance. My son and I restored this coupe when he was 14. He's 29 now and it's his daily driver. I'm 59 now and still learning. Tommy D
  6. Hello all, While parking my car I was met with wafting smoke from the engine compartment. I popped the hood to discover a significant amount of fluid coming from what I believe is the high pressure hose of the power steering pump - specifically the flared coupling that connects the metal tubing to the rubber. It squirts out quite a bit of fluid as I turn the wheel (engine on). The leak appears to be from the rubber side of the connection. I am hoping to get some help identifying exactly which part I will need to replace. There seems to be some variety in these hoses for each model year. I think the part begins with 3A719, however, there seems to be several subtypes indicated by a letter. One forum suggested the VIN would tell me, which might make my car the "F" subtype? For context, the pump is original and was attached to a 5L 302 with a 4 barrel, however, I rebuilt a 5.8L 351W, which I have been driving everyday, without incident, for the past 8 months or so. At this point, I know nothing of why this happened, and I understand it can be a variety of things ranging from a bad hose or clog or bad everything. For now, my main goal is to track down some kind of part number I can use to order a replacement for this section of the hose assembly. Appreciate any help in advance. The photos below show a driver side/top side view of the PS pump and the hose. After running the car a second time to confirm the location of the leak, the leaking fluid came out much more frothy and pink. Some of the other fluid in the picture is transmission fluid, which is from an old leak I am already aware of. I also included a picture of the underside to help identify the general shape of the tubing. Hope it helps. Thanks.
  7. Last update for this post. After much troubleshooting, the fuel gauge problem was a re-assembly issue with the cluster. Even though the insulation brackets were in the right spot, the posts on the back of the gauge were contacting the cluster housing, grounding them out. I put some electrical tape around the inside of the housing where the posts slide through and it worked. Seems like a bad design, in my opinion, but it worked for 15 years before I messed with it so what are you going to do? Got the idea from this video I found in an old forum. Hope it helps somebody else.
  8. They do. Also, dome light, heater light, courtesy light in the ignition, high beam switch, gear shift light - all working properly.
  9. ***SOLVED*** First off, I would like to thank you all for your help. Between all of your insights I was able to figure out the problem. LONG story short, I hooked a 9V battery to some speaker wire and started poking my fully assembled cluster (now on my kitchen counter) until lights started turning on. To my surprise, sometimes almost all of the lights turned on! WEIRD! After a while I noticed a pattern that when I put voltage across each light socket, one of two things would happen: 1) Only two lights would light up OR 2) All of the other lights besides two would light up. This would happen after changing the polarity of my test by reversing which side on each socket I had the "positive" and "negative" cables from the 9V battery. I then checked the forum to post my findings and saw what @danno had said about the insulating brackets so I took apart the cluster again and made sure they were in the correct position. Once I re-assembled the cluster and repeated my earlier test, I got the same results EXCEPT now two different bulbs were lit up (or not lit up depending on the cable polarity). Once I bashed my head against a wall a few more times, I thought back to what @Midlife said about polarity, and even though the bulbs I purchased have reversible polarity, and, therefore, should not care how they are installed, I thought maybe, just maybe, technology back in 1969 wasn't set up to handle reversible polarity. I then, in the proper "positive/negative voltage flow" scenario, removed and rotated each bulb, that wasn't lighting up, 180 degrees and BOOM. All bulbs work as intended. What a relief. TLDR: Even reversible polarity LED bulbs bought from modern manufactures are not reversible in this context. I have no idea why and random chance of how I chose to install each bulb has been my downfall all along. I will definitely be marking my lights and light sockets with a pen from here on out. Anyways, a test drive to make sure my gauges were working revealed that the only casualty is my fuel gauge, which does not work anymore. @danno this gauge had the insulating brackets in the correct place all along so i'm not too sure why it's suddenly not working, but I am taking the win for tonight. Pictures attached of my 9V test for those who are curious. I hope this thread helps others who have issues with after market LED's.
  10. @danno What is this flextape that you speak of? Is that another name for the circuit board? As far as I know there was not any insulating material on the gauges - unless you count some rectangular plastic retaining washers keeping the gauges in place when the nuts are off. As far as the ground goes, I did not check that ground with the cluster hooked up - just on my table with the multimeter. As far as I know, I did not blow anything post foil - all other interior lights are working properly and no fuses are blown. @aslanefe I did clean up the points on the sockets and bent them to increase tension (accidentally broke one in the process). I will try cleaning up the copper pads. My only worry is there may not be enough material left to polish and make a good connection. @Midlife Which one is the alternator indicator lamp? Also, these LED bulbs are for automotive purposes and have a reversible polarity so direction should not matter. I confirmed this with the manufacture. I appreciate all of the replies so far. I will post any updates/solutions as I get them.
  11. Hello all, I recently decided to re-do my 1969 Gauge Cluster lights (no-tac). I had installed LED lights years ago, and, overtime, I had a few lights that had spotty and intermittent connections and the rattle of the engine combined with LA streets would turn them on and off. Once I pulled the stock PCB (dated Nov 1968!) I saw that the gold/copper "ring" for several of the light sockets were quite worn down and likely the culprit of my one or two flickering lights. ** To clarify, all dash lights work - just one or two goes out occasionally, but a *tap tap* to the cluster will illuminate them again**. I figured a CJPony parts PCB (printed circuit board) would be a nice upgrade and peace of mind for night driving, but, to my surprise, after the install most of the lights stopped working all together! This prompted a thorough check of all connections with a multimeter, and I could find no break in the circuit on the CJPony PCB or the old PCB. I checked my wiring harness, fuse box, and tested that the wiring harness connector is receiving 12V - all good. The only variable that changed is the new PCB, which I promptly took off and re-installed the old one. Then, my well-intentioned, but electrically intermediate brain, decided I will "improve" my light socket connections with a conductive material (aluminum foil) to make up for the worn connections. After taping foil (shiny-side only) around each socket connection and a quick check with the multimeter, I verified all circuits were still operational, and I re-re-installed the old PCB into the car. Unfortunately, my aluminum trick was only partially successful, and I still had some bulbs stay dark and some flicker with movement of the cluster. MY QUESTION(s): Any thoughts/ideas as to why the CJPony PCB barely worked at all? Also, has anyone ever "re-invigorated" the light socket connections with success? Perhaps electrical grease or polishing? For an "incandescent" look, I am using these LED bulbs without any colored diffusers, all of which have been tested and proven to work. Pictures of the old, new, and "improved" old PCB. drive-download-20201127T031547Z-001.zip
  12. Hey guys, my coupe is getting exhaust today, so I can't take a photo, but I'm hoping somebody will recognize my question about the fuel cap assembly on a coupe. Fuel cap fasteners. There's a metal ring with a threaded stud (maybe 3/16?). Seems reasonable that it goes through one of the holes and a nut holds it on. Also, there are a number of other hole forming a circle that I assume are supposed to fasten the filler next to the taillight panel. Finally, wondering if there's supposed to be a gasket between the filler neck and the panel. In bullet form: The thread size of the bolt on the gas cap retainer wire? What hardware to fasten the filler neck to the taillight panel? Any gasket necessary between filler neck and sheet metal The car has been disassembled for so long...I've obviously lost some hardware and, more importantly, the memory of how it goes together. A photo of somebody's stock cap assembly (cap unscrewed and dangling) would go a LONG way for me. Thanks! Tom
  13. Hey guys, my apologies if my explanations are ambiguous as I'm not entirely savvy on this stuff yet. For what it's worth, I have no idea if my 351W block was decked. The PO said it was stock, but it was a craigslist deal and you never know. I never did have it examined nor do I know how to confirm. The aftermarket GT-40 clone, Chinese manufactured, heads I got at a speed shop on eBay. As I may have mentioned, that seller gets horrible reviews on Yelp for his engine builds, but nobody seems to have maligned the heads themselves. My original Edelbrock Performer was an unknown quantity as well. It fit great on the original block with the cast iron heads (at least visually) as it was a running motor (again according to the PO). When I said the "rails of the manifold", what I meant was the top of the sides of the manifold did not adequately cover the top of the ports on the heads, essentially exposing a tiny amount to the atmosphere. :) This obviously didn't go well when I got it running for breakin. My measurements revealed that the ports on the aluminum heads were "situated higher" off the deck than the cast iron heads (that's where .2" came in). The Performer was never going to cover this gap w/out some kind of serious machining. Fate stepped in and my friend had a Weiand Stealth that was new (if not dirty). I've since installed that and -- yesterday -- re-fired up the motor. Huzzah! As of this moment, I can report initial success. I need to do some tuning today (timing, idle-mixture, float-adjustment, etc.) but the motor actually idled yesterday, so that's an indication that my vacuum issues are resolved. When I called Weiand (Holley) tech support, they said the Stealth was just manufactured "taller" than the Edelbrock and they just happened to work better with the GT40 style heads. I took it as a design-consequence, not a design decision. Anywho, I'm super grateful for the help here. I think I'm a big step closer to a driver. To 1969_Mach, I did take the time to remove the lifters, inspect, and re-install with assembly lube. Same for pushrods and rockers. Re-adjusted the rockers carefully as well. I lost a number of hours to my original bone-headed mistake of not looking hard at the fit of the Performer during original assembly, but that lesson is now hard-learned. Tom
  14. Thanks guys. I have a little gizmo to rotate the oil pump shaft. I'll see if I can get it "nuts on" again tomorrow.
×
×
  • Create New...