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About foothilltom

  • Rank
    Resto-Mod Squad
  • Birthday 11/19/1962


  • Biography
    Resto-mod hobbyist
  • Location
    Auburn, CA
  • Interests
    Flying, cars, stuff
  • Occupation
    Software geek

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  1. Hey guys, my coupe is getting exhaust today, so I can't take a photo, but I'm hoping somebody will recognize my question about the fuel cap assembly on a coupe. Fuel cap fasteners. There's a metal ring with a threaded stud (maybe 3/16?). Seems reasonable that it goes through one of the holes and a nut holds it on. Also, there are a number of other hole forming a circle that I assume are supposed to fasten the filler next to the taillight panel. Finally, wondering if there's supposed to be a gasket between the filler neck and the panel. In bullet form: The thread size of the bolt on the gas cap retainer wire? What hardware to fasten the filler neck to the taillight panel? Any gasket necessary between filler neck and sheet metal The car has been disassembled for so long...I've obviously lost some hardware and, more importantly, the memory of how it goes together. A photo of somebody's stock cap assembly (cap unscrewed and dangling) would go a LONG way for me. Thanks! Tom
  2. Hey guys, my apologies if my explanations are ambiguous as I'm not entirely savvy on this stuff yet. For what it's worth, I have no idea if my 351W block was decked. The PO said it was stock, but it was a craigslist deal and you never know. I never did have it examined nor do I know how to confirm. The aftermarket GT-40 clone, Chinese manufactured, heads I got at a speed shop on eBay. As I may have mentioned, that seller gets horrible reviews on Yelp for his engine builds, but nobody seems to have maligned the heads themselves. My original Edelbrock Performer was an unknown quantity as well. It fit great on the original block with the cast iron heads (at least visually) as it was a running motor (again according to the PO). When I said the "rails of the manifold", what I meant was the top of the sides of the manifold did not adequately cover the top of the ports on the heads, essentially exposing a tiny amount to the atmosphere. :) This obviously didn't go well when I got it running for breakin. My measurements revealed that the ports on the aluminum heads were "situated higher" off the deck than the cast iron heads (that's where .2" came in). The Performer was never going to cover this gap w/out some kind of serious machining. Fate stepped in and my friend had a Weiand Stealth that was new (if not dirty). I've since installed that and -- yesterday -- re-fired up the motor. Huzzah! As of this moment, I can report initial success. I need to do some tuning today (timing, idle-mixture, float-adjustment, etc.) but the motor actually idled yesterday, so that's an indication that my vacuum issues are resolved. When I called Weiand (Holley) tech support, they said the Stealth was just manufactured "taller" than the Edelbrock and they just happened to work better with the GT40 style heads. I took it as a design-consequence, not a design decision. Anywho, I'm super grateful for the help here. I think I'm a big step closer to a driver. To 1969_Mach, I did take the time to remove the lifters, inspect, and re-install with assembly lube. Same for pushrods and rockers. Re-adjusted the rockers carefully as well. I lost a number of hours to my original bone-headed mistake of not looking hard at the fit of the Performer during original assembly, but that lesson is now hard-learned. Tom
  3. Thanks guys. I have a little gizmo to rotate the oil pump shaft. I'll see if I can get it "nuts on" again tomorrow.
  4. Hi guys, wondering if this is the best I can do when installing the diz. The crank is at 0 TDC and I can never seem to get the rotor to line up with spark plug #1. Obviously, the rotor rotates backwards when dropping in the gear, but no matter how I seem to set up the thing, the rotor is either past #1 or ahead of #1 (like shown in the picture). Is this "close enough" that can be fine-tuned with rotating the diz after the fact? My brain tells me #1 should fire around 10 degrees BEFORE TDC so I would think the rotor should be slightly PAST #1 when installed at 0 TDC. Wondering if I'm explaining that well. To simplify, what side of #1 on the distributor should I err on when I'm installing the diz since it never seems to want to drop exactly in. Here is a diagram of what I have right now. Thanks! Tom
  5. I'd answer it like this: the top rail of the old intake sat literally below the top of the ports on the heads with no gasket at the end seals. The Stealth sits about 1/4" higher than the Edelbrock in the valley and covers the ports correctly. It took me a long time to realize this, but when I mocked up the Edelbrock with my new gasket, I realized it. I think these Chinese manufactured heads are the culprit. When I carefully measured the top of the port from the bottom of the head (where it meets the block), the aluminum heads were .2" higher than the cast iron. That plus the low-slung manifold created a no-fit situation. I was concerned that a beat of RTV at the end seals was not going to "raise" the manifold high enough. The Stealth doesn't have this issue. So I'm ready to say that my Edelbrock just couldn't possibly work with these heads.
  6. I think it might be kismet! A friend of mine came over today to take a look at my stalled project. He's a chevy guy (as many are). When I told my story of woe about the Performer 351, he casually mentioned he had a Ford intake in his garage that he was going to sell for a friend who has given up on wrenching. We went over and damn if it wasn't a Stealth 8023. Never been installed. Dirty and in need of cleaning. We test fit it (after cleaning it up) and it was perfect! He asked for $50 but I gave him $100 as I was *this close* to paying $256 (plus CA tax) for it today from Holley. I'll sell the Edelbrock that came with my block and hope to break as even as possible. Super happy with the manifold. Fits my air cleaner setup and the hood closes! Look for better stories from me in the days ahead as I think I've solved my big vacuum crisis. Good weekend, all. Tom
  7. I'm starting to answer my own questions...maybe that's a sign of growth? I doubt it. Careful measurement reveals that the tops of the ports of my GT-40 Chi-Clone heads are .2" higher than the cast iron heads. This manifold obviously fit great with stock heads. So, it seems that my original vacuum leak was probably not a result of poorly installed or poorly chosen gaskets, but a result of myopically installing an intake w/out any regard to its fit with this setup. Did somebody recommend the Weiand Stealth? I am thinking about calling the manufacturer to see if it accommodates this much taller head port. Still, your insights are appreciated.
  8. Hey guys, am mocking up the intake with the Fel-Pro 1250S-3 steel core gasket that was recommended. I'm starting to thing that something is off with the geometry of my block, heads, manifold, whatever. When I mock up the manifold with the side rail gaskets in place, but no front/rear gaskets, the manifold sits "very low" and the top of the rail doesn't even cover the top of my ports on my heads. This can't be good. :) When I measure the gap between the manifold and the front/rear of the block, I get 1/16th in the front and 3/32" in the rear, so not a very big gap at all. I then mocked it up by putting the cork front/rear gaskets in place and the manifold obviously set up a bit higher, but it now just barely covers the blue outline on the gasket around the intake ports. This is the bit that creates the seal. I have a picture of this with the suspected port areas outlined in blue. I'm starting to believe that, yes, I may have had the wrong gasket set initially, but am also now wondering if the basic geometry of my setup is bogus and that something may have been modified, the heads not sized correctly, etc. This is all coming from a newbie, so please forgive the poorly constructed thoughts. I don't have another manifold lying about, but I am willing to do whatever to measure, verify, etc. As important, I don't plan on using the cork gaskets in the final install, which has be concerned that my height problem will be even worse since the RTV will "crush" much more readily than the cork. Thoughts and ideas are very welcome. Tom
  9. At the moment, the gasket is installed, so I can't say with 100% certainty, but it came with my 351W gasket kit from Summit. As near as I can tell from the Summit page, the number is 8548PT-2. My question is more generic: is it considered bad practice to use the single shim style head gasket with aluminum heads. It's hard searching for a distinct answer. Folks talk about layered gaskets and other stuff due to the differences between alum and cast iron. Just trying to get out in front of a potential bad choice while I'm taking everything apart again.
  10. Hey guys, if you've been following, I managed to create a pretty bad situation with a poor choice of intake manifold gasket on my 351W rebuild. Now, my attention turns to the head gaskets I used on my cast iron block and GT-40 clone aluminum heads. I used the regular single shim style gasket that came with my Fel-Pro kit. I've got the intake off and just about to go through the valve train (again) after re-lubing everything, and am pausing for some sanity. Are there strong opinions on there about a properly installed single-shim style vs. something else? I've got no reasons to suspect a leak of any kind, but I would prefer not to have to regret that decision later. Oh, and is there conventional wisdom on re-torquing the heads after a breakin cycle? If so, does that mean loosening them, and then re-torquing? It seems weird to just stick a torque wrench on there and expect it to move...seems like the static friction of the bolt would make a false positive. Thoughts? Thanks as always. Tom
  11. Well, some dang good news for once. I pulled the lifters one by one and inspected for any signs of wear. Happily, there are as smooth as the proverbial baby's butt, so I don't think I did any detectable damage to the motor during that 40 seconds of running with coolant in the oil. Put them all back in the same hole. My Fel-Pro 1250S-3 gasket is on its way and I'll clean up the block, manifold, and heads before re-installing. I'm going to do the "dry fit" test as Barnett suggested to see how much gap I have in the front/back. I remember thinking originally "that's a big gap", but I didn't realize then that a 1/4" was normal. I was expecting a pretty tight fit, but I'm educated now. :) I'll keep you posted on the progress, but meanwhile, please accept my sincere thanks. I learn so much here and I don't give back a damn thing. I hope to change that. Tom
  12. I'm seriously afraid to find out. I think I'll do that first thing tomorrow. Why ruin a Sunday evening. :)
  13. Roger that. The ports on my head are larger than my intake, so I just made a bogus assumption that it's always that way. Again, I learn something every time.
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