Mach1 Driver

According to Barnett who is a builder that frequents this site and has done 50+ Mustangs:
Go with 15x7 with a 4.25 backspace (back of the wheel to the mounting surface) with a 5 x 4.5 lug pattern. He recommends Specialty Wheels. At one time the shipping was $16 per wheel if ordered individually, but $50 per wheel when ordering four, so you will need to review current shipping practices.
The largest tire on the front that won't hit slightly under some conditions is a P235/60R15. If you want "The Look" go with BF Goodrich TA radials with raised white letters. The second most popular tire is Cooper, which actually gets a slightly better satisfaction rating.

I follow this channel in youtube and I thought this was very interesting, this may and possibly save the gasoline engine: 
 

There are lots of companies that make harnesses, but personally I like stock replacement harnesses that match the wire diagram and Ford specs. You can get those from National Parts Depot, and the company is Metal Alloy. Call NPD and tell them what model you have and they will know which harnesses you need- with or without a tach, hood turn signals, etc.
Its a good idea to replace the wire forward of the firewall, because it ages with heat and the elements, however for the stuff inside the car you can get it refurbished by Randy at http://midlifeharness.com     

My brother bought his 69 S code Mach in 79 and knew I would have to have one. I got mine in 80 at the age of 15, a 69 Drag Pac for 1500. The drivetrain was long gone and had been replaced with a CJ and C6. I later found out she carried the nickname of the "Blue Ghost" due to the many eyry happenings to the prior 6-7 owners. My brother and I were self taught on working on them, with some help from the Chilton's Manual. I was known at HS as the Mach 1 Kid, never got beat street racing, and was constantly harassed by the police for excessive noise, exhibition of acceleration, and no front license plate. In 86 we parted ways, but still carried all the memories and scars of owning her. The 70 vert I bought 7 years ago rekindled the flame and soon got another 69 Mach a year later, then a 68, another 70 vert, a 70 coupe, and then restored my brothers Mach. I don't know what it is about the 69/70 Mustangs that leave a craving within my soul to restore just one more.
I do know though, this forum has created many a long distance friend ships with men I will never meet, hours of entertainment, very helpful advice, built confidence within on wiring/electrical issues, joys, sorrows, and the ability of giving back to others. Thanks Guys

My doctor and I are avid readers, and email each other about good books we’ve read. Well, in today’s conversation I related how I was restoring my old Mustang. He’s a doctor, not a car crazed Mustang addict, so please excuse him for not knowing they came out in 1964.5. Here’s his memory:
 I have to tell you a very interesting story about Mustangs.  It came out in 1963 or 64 if I recall, anyway, I was 3 or 4 and my Mom and and Dad and I were sitting watching the bunny eared black and white TV, and the first commercial came on for the NEW FORD MUSTANG.  Well, and I remember this clear as day, after the commercial was done, my Dad got up and went into the kitchen, which was out of our line of sight.  We hear the dial phone...shhhh click click click shhhh click click click, hear my Dad talking for about five minutes, then he comes back into the living room and sits back down.  My Mom asks "What did you just do, Bob?"  to which my Dad replied, "I just called Detroit and ordered that car on TV."  No kidding.  My Mom just said "Oh, OK".  She was used to my Dad doing crazy stuff with cars, he loved them and owned about 20 different ones over his life.  So, it got delivered, a white hard top three on the floor, and we had the first Mustang in lower NY state.  I still remember that thing, we took a trip down to Florida in it, the three kids crammed in the back sitting on suitcases...what a blast.  So I have very fond memories of the old Mustangs.  It was a beast.

It is gold and black. The black is reflective in the light. TJs is a small shop but very effective in getting what you need. 

This is a shame, the place where hot-rodding started.  John Milner is rolling over in his grave....
 
 
 

I have 2 garages at my house, the upstairs one, where the proper cars are, and then the downstairs garage that my wife calls the "black hole".   My other garage is a 22 foot enclosed car trailer where my '68 Mustang currently sits until I get the '70 done.  It is a great place to hide all kinds of stuff like firearms, cool tools that she won't understand, fishing gear, and tons of car parts.  I also have a bunch of vintage Shelby art n the garages and my office, like the poster on the left with the blonde Shelby Gal with the Cowboy hat.....  I tell her it is just some vintage "advertising"...    "yeah right" is the response...    Thank God for the haven of the man-cave.....
 

03 Mach 1
 

I have since sold that car but I don't ever remember having to steer it back straight, if it didn't come back dead center it was by such a small amount I never noticed it. Turning radius was just like stock box, stop to stop. 

OMG!  I hope you tightened that nut on the accessory post and used a second nut as a jamb nut!  You should be reported to the wiring Gods as a derelict.  *G*

RPM, those are real clean fingers; that means you neglecting the Mustang and not getting your hands dirty.

It looks like the white clip is broken off and as far as I know you need a new speedo cable

You're more than welcome.  It is often that another set of eyes/mindset can troubleshoot things better than the one experiencing the problem. 
The main reason why I am on this and other forums, as well as my wiring refurbishment business, is that I really enjoy trouble-shooting from a distance.  Having a detached perspective (e.g. a dirty mind laying in the gutter) and helping people out gives me great satisfaction out of life.  That, and a good brand of whiskey...

Mach1Driver:
Showoff.  *G*

Wire diagrams show you how it's wired with colors and plugs, etc., while the schematics below show you how it works by showing the internal switching of components. They also greatly simplify what the wire diagram is showing, removing the problem of not seeing the forest for the trees. All five pages showing the entire car are in the section "How To"  under the post "A Real Schematic".
 Most of the time you really need both a wire diagram and a schematic. Interior lights are on page 2 and exterior lights are on page 3:

Heck it isn't even the crack of dawn yet and I'm up already, see below
Edit; this thing will print in portrait mode, letter or B size. It's from the 1969 Ford Shop Manual and is 30+ pages long. Each page is originally 11x17, which is B size. The pdf software lets you print pages individually. 
Mustang Wire Diagram.pdf

It is correct ,all the bubbles is probably where it has lifted and may have rust started under them . Scrap it back and wire wheel the rust away but dont heat up the metal or it will warp ,you could also use a flap wheel on a die grinder . Primer and spray new sound deadner over the area 

This is the working bay. Pictured in house remodel mode. All the crap on the floor to the right is that stuff (and my chili pot). Router on the left, table saw out, and I forgot why the welder was involved. As much as I hate to say it, the is situation normal. Too much stuff and too little room. 
As for tools there's an Atlas lathe and Clausing mill lurking back there I guess.

Who are you guys? One time when doing electrical work on my 69 I used a horizontal screwinator where a Hensley was needed. 

This is what I would do; get some nuts with the correct thread. Then use a small file and make channels inside them like a die would have (basically make a die out of the nut). Then use it as a tap. As the nuts are smaller than a die, they will not hit the sides of the channels.

One advice from me; build more than what you think you need.
Built a 54X42 over 10 years ago as my 16x20 shop was getting small; looked like this.

 
Now it looks like this.

https://www.odometer.com/car-care/2561937/sacramento-ca-makes-diy-auto-repairs-illegal/?utm_source=ofb2&utm_term=odometer

As far as I remember, the hose from the power bleeder sticks out a little bit from the adapter/cap. So when you remove the pressure from the bleeder, some fluid moves from master to bleeder and the fluid level in the master drops below the cap level which eliminates spill when adapter is removed from master. But if you remove the adapter while bleeder is still pressurized, you will make a mess.

I do like that gray with black, however probably Red would appeal to more buyers.