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lanky last won the day on June 2

lanky had the most liked content!

About lanky

  • Rank
    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 03/07/1990


  • Location
    Santa Cruz

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  1. What thickness flange are they? 5/16" ? Are the headers ports too small for the dart heads?
  2. lanky

    McCleod clutch = Luk ?

    I have read of plenty of people loving their diaphragm clutches. That said, I would love concrete information on how much travel (at the fork) each one requires to fully disengage. Barnett those centrifugul weights supposedly reduce the pedal effort at higher rpms right?
  3. lanky

    McCleod clutch = Luk ?

    Well since I have to return this clutch because it is damaged, I am thinking I am going to shell a little extra out and go for a centerforce. I'm confident their clutches are designed from scratch for performance applications (of different levels of course).
  4. lanky

    McCleod clutch = Luk ?

    BrianConway hit the nail on the head. Luk does make high end clutches, at least that's what I read online (vettes etc) but when you're buying from a performance oriented supplier like McLeod I thought I would be getting something else.
  5. lanky

    McCleod clutch = Luk ?

    Pictures as requested
  6. Hello, I recently received my clutch from McLeod (75112) and the pressure plate has Luk stamped on it. I have to return the clutch anyways as the friction surface has damage on it, but now I am considering going with a centerforce unit instead. Luk makes cheap clutches... why in the world did I pay 2X + for something branded as Mcleod? Did anyone know this already?
  7. Kits from tcp, unisteer, Randall's, flaming river, etc do not require shock tower elimination. Cradles yes, but I referred to shock towers. Apparently with the FR kit you can even keep your cross member which I didn't know.
  8. Many/most racks don't require shock tower elimination. Since I read of other people with the centering problems, it isn't a one time occurrence type of issue. Same with leaky pumps, which I should add they haven't changed. All I can do is inform others of my experience.
  9. If you want a power rack you can't find anything for the same price as a borgeson setup, however in retrospect I still wish I shelled out the extra $$ and went rack the first time. That said, I haven't tried their newer 14:1 ratio boxes. My pump has ~2000 miles and is really noisy. I had to trim the pump mount spacers quite a bit for the pulleys to line up properly...much more than I should have had to for a bolt on kit. I can't emphasize enough how bad the steering feel is. The car doesn't want to go straight (especially at freeway speeds) despite multiple alignments at a good shop and tons of caster.
  10. lanky

    Hi Amps, need serpentine

    Just for the sake of conversation, I've been running a 130A alternator with factory bracket setup (just made an intermediate bracket). With my contour fans, upgraded headlights, 2 additional fuseboxes etc no signs of belt slippage. I used a late model alternator and swapped my pulley over. To be added later is an ignition box, and if I ever have the money maybe efi...
  11. lanky

    catalytic converters?

    Barnett what I meant by my comment is that if he already has tailpipes and is smelling exhaust at highway speeds that changing the tailpipes setup won't help. Unless his current tailpipes end somewhat underneath the car/trunk. Yes changing the tailpipes can have an effect at idle or even lower speed cruising.
  12. I agree with bryonbush 100% Hoses too short Steering feel is awful (worse than factory system) Had to modify my Baer tracker tie rod kit to work with it (unlike the factory gearbox) Pump leaks (admittedly my leak is slow, but still) Pump is super noisy (about same as factory ford pump Return to center is really bad (I have 6.7 degrees of caster...it's a bandaid solution) Included brackets are not a very sturdy design from a stiffness standpoint see If I had a redo-rack and pinion without a doubt in my mind.
  13. lanky

    catalytic converters?

    If your tailpipes run out to the back, turndowns won't help the problem. Put simply there has to be a leak somewhere that allows you to the smell it while driving. You said you checked the exhaust and headers with a shopvac, did you test them together? Maybe the collector gasket/flange is causing it? If your afr is rich, clean any efi sensors with sensor-safe cleaner, check for any leaks in intake tract. Where in exhaust system is o2 sensor placed?
  14. lanky

    Stock exhaust system

    I forgot to add one thing: I strongly recommend against Walker mufflers. I had a brand new one last less than a year before exhaust was coming out of the pinch seams. Not sure if they have welded one's, but they manufacture for dynomax and I think some of those are welded. There are also those mufflers with valves that open and close based on either vacuum or exhaust backpressure. I would never use one, but worth looking into maybe. With a 2.5" system routing the exhaust for 3 mufflers (2 reg 1 transverse) would be difficult to say the least. You wouldn't be able to run very long of a transverse muffler due to the curves of the pipes, maybe a 14"er would work...not sure. If I can't do the above when I have a system made, I will definitely run some sort of resonator/glasspacks (however small) right after the rear axle. They wouldn't do much, but with straight through design mufflers any extra can't hurt. I really won't debate this last part if anyone disagrees, but everything I have read with actual data shows that during cruising x-pipes typically are a little quieter than h-pipes (with everything else the same).
  15. lanky

    Stock exhaust system

    I have some input on this topic. I have spent a lot of time trying to figure out if a non-restrictive exhaust can be quiet...IMO it's impossible *with classic mustangs* because of the space available in the exhaust system. Especially once you're above ~300hp. I once thought turbo mufflers were the way to go, and they are definitely a good option. However for the volume they do have significant restriction at higher rpms and since they are NOT quiet I have decided high quality straight-through mufflers are my choice. Optimally (for me) would also include either with glasspacks at tailpipes, glasspacks before the mufflers (only really short ones would fit here), some kind of dual in/dual out muffler added behind axle (transverse) etc etc. Some cars with space for larger (or more) mufflers can produce high power and remain relatively tame, but I think with our cars it's more difficult. I agree with the post about sound deadener, that makes a huge difference.