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lanky last won the day on March 1

lanky had the most liked content!

About lanky

  • Rank
    Super Stanger'
  • Birthday 03/07/1990


  • Location
    Santa Cruz

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  1. If you do decide to split parts up and ship I am interested in the radiator mount. You can pm me if that works, otherwise no worries.
  2. Headers for my 5.0 build.

    I agree that 2.25" is adequate, but at least on my car the crush bends were pretty bad! So when you said factory system, I immediately thought of the bends that my factory system had and imagined how poorly the exhaust flows from said bends. But yes 2.25" is plenty if its a decent system.
  3. Headers for my 5.0 build.

    If you are spending the coin on headers, why cork your exhaust with the factory system? Just run manifolds if you are not going to have a good flowing exhaust. Otherwise you're getting all the increased volume with little performance benefit.
  4. 3g alternator

    They are internally regulated thus no external regulator. I ran the stator wire to the left side of the solenoid. I used this schematic:
  5. Any1 Using Chrome Got Sudden Reply Issues?

    Just like Ridge Runner said, randomly its working today. I made no changes to anything, yet it fixed itself.....weird
  6. 3g alternator

    This is my $.02, the factory alternators are obviously pretty low amperage. There's not a lot to power electrically in these cars as they came from the factory. That said there's a reason they chose the amperage they did for the factory alternators. 95A is only about ~30-40 more than factory give or take. Since Countour fans supposedly pull a constant 30-35 amps and peak at very high amperage when turned on, I didn't want to tax the alternator near its amperage limit. Would there have been issues? I genuinely don't know. However since I have upgraded my headlight wiring/headlights with a relay system, and added additional fuse boxes/gauges/components to the car I thought it best to step up to the bigger 130A unit and have that extra capacity, even if only for lower taxation on the alternator. Alternators do burn out I might add. Now that I have done the swap, I obviously could do it all over again much quicker and making the extension bracket for the 130A to fit correctly wasn't hard at all. I was junkyarding the alternator/wiring so if I'm paying a flat price at pick n pull why not get the more powerful one! Tim Taylor style...I took the nice 4ga charge wire and boot/terminal from the car I took it from too and trimmed it to fit with a new end for the starter solenoid (battery side).
  7. In the course of a day, where I made no changes or updates to my computer, I went from being able to reply/start threads using Chrome to not being able to do either. I tried rebooting, updating to latest version of Chrome, no luck. Other browsers work fine, and this literally changed over the period of a few hours and I have no idea why. Can someone explain this? Other forums reply/start thread is working fine, only 1969stang is the issue!
  8. 3g alternator

    No I am not. I wired up the alternator directly to the wires that used to go to the VR. This stuff rests there now.
  9. 3g alternator

    What engine do you have OP? I junkyarded a 3g and had to clock it very different from factory for my 69 351w. I fabricated a 3" extension for my lower alt. bracket with a piece of 3/8" thick steel with 2 holes in it. I used a series of washers to properly align the alt pulley. I actually wired it right the first time and it's been working very well! I got a 130A because I read that at idle they give you much more juice. Steady 14.3 ish volts all rpms. Bad pic but it's all I have on my phone.
  10. What width 17" tire

    Mine rubbed the valence with 6.7 degrees of caster with 17x8 235/45/17. I am sure my wheelbase is more than 108" like factory. A Dremel took care of the valence rubbing.
  11. Will my RPM Air-Gap Fit under the hood?

    I see your point and don't disagree. On a non stroked *street* 351w running 6500rpm or lower I just can't imagine there is that much more power with the air gap. Just my opinion.
  12. Will my RPM Air-Gap Fit under the hood?

    Good info to post! Looks like this is the video I remembered So it was a SBC not ford, but it was a 460hp 360ci with 11.25:1 compression, 292comp cam which isn't small, and 215cc dart heads. I would classify this as a moderate to highly modified street motor. I have no idea if the cross sections were different then or now with SBC stuff. Either way I think it shows most people aren't sacrificing much choosing an RPM on their street motors. With a stroker...probably.
  13. Will my RPM Air-Gap Fit under the hood?

    Buckeye: That is the first I have heard of runner size being different between the two. I believe hotrodgarage tested air gap vs rpm and the rpm was only down a few numbers, and they actually were equivalent when they milled the divider on the rpm a little. I can't remember which engine was used during testing, but i would think on most forum guys' motors the difference in performance would be minimal..but hey I am no expert.
  14. Will my RPM Air-Gap Fit under the hood?

    If you look at the edelbrock website, the 351w versions of the standard RPM and the air gap rpm show the following carb height measurements: RPM (front of carb base :4.3" , back of carb base: 4.9") Air Gap (5.3" and 6.19") Thats a sizeable difference. Can I ask why no one uses the non air gap version? I actually have one with a summit carb that I haven't installed yet, but reading from people's troubles with the air gap I am sure glad I didn't buy that version. I will be attemping to run a 1/2" spacer but if fitments a problem I might mill the carb base a little. I know I will be looking for a new carb base when install begins.
  15. Softer ride

    Ditch the KYBs. I had them for less than 1000 miles and hated then. Switched to Bilstein sports, much better.