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lanky last won the day on June 2 2018

lanky had the most liked content!

About lanky

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    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 03/07/1990


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    Santa Cruz

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  1. lanky

    lowering compression

    Semi-off topic but I wanted to mention some, not all, inline 4 contours had the exact same fan setup as the v6's. Why some do and some don't I'm not sure. If it were me, since you said the engine gets too hot at idle I would start with cooling because that's the easiest to tackle first.
  2. Well I pulled the column out when I did the borgeson swap (had to) and it looked fine to me. No excessive play or anything. My original switch worked for original 85xxx miles When my replacement switches, there are a few issues I've encountered: Self cancellers break, every one I've owned does this eventually...cheap plastics :( Contacts for horn button work intermittently, or honk while turning (due to poor design or lack of ability to center the switch...see below Had to file mounting holes on switch to properly center switch around column When wheel is installed loosely (wiggling still) switch works fine, when wheel is tightened securely either horn goes on or horn contacts make terrible scraping sound from bind, despite the use of dialectic grease (no it wasn't runny) I know I've purchased at least one SD brand one, one from npd, and I can't remember the other. I'm tired of spending the money on expensive switches that keep failing. For the money I could make a cool switch panel, some may hate this idea but I'm not trying to remain original.
  3. I've had such consistent problems with replacement turn signal switches I'm debating dumping the column switch for a turn signal button switch panel. I'm on my third replacement and none have lasted longer than a few drives without issues. They were purchased through different vendors yet look exactly the same.
  4. lanky

    Gear Vendors Overdrive

    This may not be an answer you like, but I strongly recommend going with a 4r70w if you want an automatic with overdrive. The fmx flexplate and crossmember work for the 4r70w swap as well, and the factory hard lines can be cut and modified to work with the 4R. I think I remember that the slots in the crossmember just need to be widened a bit. There is the possibility of driveline angle issues with the gear vendors tailshaft, but this isn't always the case. The GV units have good reputations, but their overdrive is .80 I believe and the 4r70w is numerically lower (this is a good thing for highway cruising/mpg). That means you can get numerically higher rear gears and have the benefits of more acceleration, without increasing highway cruise rpm. Not to mention a 4r70w by itself is a ton lighter than an fmx with a GV unit, and since it has lower rotating mass that also means more HP eaten turning the driveline = less efficiency as well. I was damn near doing this swap myself, when I came across a great deal on a toploader...so I'm prepping for that now. Even if they are a good product, which is what I have read, to me they really don't make sense.
  5. I know this shouldn't need to be done, especially since you already did the job right it sounds, but maybe a light coating of gasket seal on the o-rings would help? It sucks when you do a big job right and still have problems...happens to all of us I think. Since my fmx has always been a bit drippy...I've never needed to do a flush since it's always getting a fresh supply!!!
  6. lanky

    McCleod clutch = Luk ?

    Buckeye thats a good take on it. I guess it just stuck out in my mind from a marketing standpoint. My background in business/marketing makes their strategy seem strange, I get it from the parts/components sharing aspect though. Saves tons of time/cost to do this like most industries. Not sure how Luk decides when/where they want to market higher end or specialty clutches as "Luk". I mean...Mustangs have been produced for 5 decades, a very long time in the automotive world.. And people have been hot rodding them from the start. Yet you don't see "Luk performance mustang clutches" (as an example) marketed as such despite a huge market existing, and them making the components. But you do see high end Luk stuff for some cars. Now clutch assembly companies, which is what they are really doing, are filling the gap in the market. Not saying they don't engineer any of their stuff, or that component matching / QA testing is easy.
  7. lanky

    McCleod clutch = Luk ?

    I purchased a Centerforce II clutch this time around. Guess what's stamped into the pressure plate? So apparently Luk makes the components for McLeod and Centerforce. I am really curious where the value added lies with these brands. Does the value come from testing? For different vehicles I've seen really high end clutches marketed as luk...so why do they not market their own clutches in general as luk? I've seen pricey Luk dual disc setups for other cars...are they also making the Centerforce DF and McLeod Twin clutches? Nobody ever tells you this stuff.
  8. So I understand how a pcv system evacuates crankcase vapors, but I still have a question: 1) What is the difference (in terms of function) between an oil filler/breather)cap that: A) IS vented (holes in bottom of it) -- connected to a hose to clean-side of air cleaner B) IS NOT vented (no holes underneath)--- connected to a hose to clean-side of air cleaner Since this is the side of the pcv system that fresh air is drawn through, wouldn't you want all of that air to be filtered? Or are those holes there to escape sudden rises in crankcase pressure (if that even happens)? Seems like the holes would increase chances of a leak/mist. To all you out there, yes I am referring to the side that DOESN'T have the pcv valve. I understand the pcv valve gets connected to manifold vacuum ideally at the carb base.
  9. What thickness flange are they? 5/16" ? Are the headers ports too small for the dart heads?
  10. lanky

    McCleod clutch = Luk ?

    I have read of plenty of people loving their diaphragm clutches. That said, I would love concrete information on how much travel (at the fork) each one requires to fully disengage. Barnett those centrifugul weights supposedly reduce the pedal effort at higher rpms right?
  11. lanky

    McCleod clutch = Luk ?

    Well since I have to return this clutch because it is damaged, I am thinking I am going to shell a little extra out and go for a centerforce. I'm confident their clutches are designed from scratch for performance applications (of different levels of course).
  12. lanky

    McCleod clutch = Luk ?

    BrianConway hit the nail on the head. Luk does make high end clutches, at least that's what I read online (vettes etc) but when you're buying from a performance oriented supplier like McLeod I thought I would be getting something else.
  13. lanky

    McCleod clutch = Luk ?

    Pictures as requested
  14. Hello, I recently received my clutch from McLeod (75112) and the pressure plate has Luk stamped on it. I have to return the clutch anyways as the friction surface has damage on it, but now I am considering going with a centerforce unit instead. Luk makes cheap clutches... why in the world did I pay 2X + for something branded as Mcleod? Did anyone know this already?