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lanky

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lanky last won the day on August 23 2019

lanky had the most liked content!

About lanky

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    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 03/07/1990

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  • Location
    Santa Cruz

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  1. My setup: 70' spindles Manual steering linkage Borgeson steering box Baer tracker bump steer kit (comes with billet aluminum tie rod adjusters) I have no idea why this is the case, but I actually had to slightly shorten my stock style inner tie rods to get the toe correct on my car. There wasn't enough adjustment. I did all the above stuff at once so I'm not sure why this was the case. Also, if you go this route, I recommend getting aluminum spanner wrenches so as to protect the adjusters. I made the mistake of trusting the alignment shop, and those fools used locking pliers and scratched up my new parts. I wanted the bump steer adjustment not necessarily the billet adjusters.
  2. Weird, I must have got a "good one" (Derale pwm controller)- mine worked great. My understanding is that they need to be mounted in an area with good ventilation, so I purposely drilled holes beneath it in the shroud and mounted it with rubber feet for vibration protection and to leave space for air to escape. I'm using Contour dual fan setup which are pretty high amperage.
  3. I must be losing my mind... My coupe doesn't have any holes there, and I thought it has a dash indicator saying "brake" that lights up until brake is released. I will have to check tomorrow for sanity reassurance.
  4. I couldn't get an email out of him, even after reading he's hard to reach and waiting patiently. I don't think that's good business tbh. Instead I bought a variable speed fan control from Derale that worked great until I shorted it--100% my fault. Since I'm going to order another one when I'm ready, I'm going to change my mounting setup a bit but it worked perfectly on the shroud.
  5. Just to put it out there, I have Bilstein shocks with the "sport" valving. Those with the common .620 drop springs were to stiff for a street car IMO. I have to replace my springs anyway so I'll be getting softer ones, and I imagine the combo will be a lot better with different (softer) springs.
  6. I definitely had no choice and had to trim a bit for the rag joint to clear without interference. Luckily the column is pretty easy to remove.
  7. What condition is your dash pad in? Pics would be fantastic. Thanks
  8. Actually I did have to trim the smaller OD metal tube for the steering joint to have clearance while turning. I cut off around 1/2" or so.
  9. I have 2.7 or 2.8 (can't remember) gears and I like them.
  10. While I haven't done this, everything I've read says there is power to get from thermactor removal. Mostly ppl think it's not worth it because it takes a lot of time. Imo I bet it would be worth 20 crank HP, potentially more depending on how far you go. People say not to touch the CC's, remove the humps, and port match for good results.
  11. Fmx transmissions definitely have both a rod and a modulator. My FMX has always engaged in gear a little rough, but it doesn't sound as bad as the OP. It still works pretty damn well for an original unrebuilt transmission. My engine is 0.030" over stock 351w with stock converter and idle is set properly, and the shift rod adjusted properly.
  12. I would buy this if I was converting to discs right now. http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-or-Track-12-Trans-Am-Front-Disk-Brake-Kit-pr-24455.html
  13. If shipping is included, I'd be interested in the starter. PM me if that works
  14. Hey everyone, I'm replacing all the weatherstripping on my 69 Coupe and I am missing the quarter window beltlines (inner and outer). Those are the only bits I need, originals might be ok if in good shape! Thank you
  15. I did the 3G conversion, it was pretty straightforward and it works great. I hated the thought of getting stranded because a part store wouldn't have a replacement ready, hence the 3 G. I was able to use my factory alternator brackets with one intermediate bracket to reach a little further.
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