mqu02

As a quick update, I was able to find one, and it seems these are more difficult to find than I thought they were.  

Yours definitely do look better than mine.  This is really hard to take a picture of, but here are a couple pictures of the stiffness mine have, the ones I have, and a close up picture of an OEM version.

I completely agree with this recommendation, and also recommend a street valved Bilstein setup.  I love the set I have, and it was a huge upgrade from what I had before.

Call Shaun at Street or Track
Or 
John or Sherri at Opentracker racing products
They are both great assets to our hobby and will steer you straight.

Listen closely and you'll hear them rust! 

Mine is closer to 3" difference in pedal heights.  Stock configuration.  Not noticeable when driving.   Brian

The '69 & '70 heater boxes are virtually identical, and yes, both of them have one design for heat only, and another design that is heat & AC.  Those two styles are completely different from each other.  Also, yes, the position of the resistor pack that the heater box connector plugs into changes when the box is AC vice non-AC?  I have an example of each, and feel free to let me know if you would like a picture of anything.

I am pretty positive that isn't a correct Silver Jade, and I can see why you didn't like it (it looks like Grabber Green to me).  When Silver Jade is done correctly it looks pretty good to most people.  Coincidentally, I have both a Silver Jade & a Black Jade Mach 1.  Here they are beside each other, and the picture makes the Black Jade car look a lot darker than it actually is.

your right, yours looks better and actually shows some silver in there, This was painted by some hack who said it was silver jade.
 

I am pretty positive that isn't a correct Silver Jade, and I can see why you didn't like it (it looks like Grabber Green to me).  When Silver Jade is done correctly it looks pretty good to most people.  Coincidentally, I have both a Silver Jade & a Black Jade Mach 1.  Here they are beside each other, and the picture makes the Black Jade car look a lot darker than it actually is.

You sound like me, 20 years ago. I painted mine Porsche India/Indian red. Then I came to love the beauty of Silver Jade. You'll grow up too :) Just teasing on that last line. Sorry :) Couldn't hep myself.  Beauty (color) is after all, in the eye of the beholder.

Hey everyone! My name is Peter Sessler. I am a recent owner of a 1969 Mustang Fastback. I got the car on ebay in January and it has TONS of issues! But that's OK! I looked for one for about 9 months before I found one i could afford. I am going to have to tear everything apart anyway. A little backround on me..... Ive been a part of car forums for almost 20 years. My dad is an automotive writer. He has written over 90 books on cars. He had two 1969 Boss 429 Mustangs a 70 Mach 1 and also a 67 GT350 Convertible growing up. My dad has been on his "last legs" for the better part of a decade so this car is going to be our final project together.
My plan is to build this car into a Boss 429 clone. From the outside it will appear as a stock Boss 429- but will have modern running gear. Interior will be as stock looking as possible as well. Using a 460 block and a pair of Jon Kasse heads. Stroke the motor to 600 cubes and have stack injection. I have been collecting parts for the project and also enjoying the car for what it is. I really refer to it as my gray turd. Car needs a new floor pan- cowl dumps water onto your feet, a bunch of patch work on the rear quarters among a lot of other areas. Basically the previous owner rattle canned the car and threw it together to sell it. Saying it was poorly  "thrown together' is an understatement. Since I got the car I have completely re-wired it with a AAW harness. The car had almost ZERO wires in it. The dash was full of sand and dirt. I rebuilt the C4 myself which was a great experience. I have since acquired a 9" rear and a TR6060 that I plan on using- the 460 is on the stand- and I have the Boss 429 hood scoop. Within a couple of months I am going to buy the Mustangs to Fear long subframe with their IFS, a watts 4 link rear and big brakes. The car has non power drum brakes, but it does have power steering and factory A/C (that isn't there). Its a pretty basic car. I am going to do as much work myself as I can. I have never done body work before so that will be a new challenge. I am able to weld and do some light metal fab. I am a member of Vintage Mustang forums and also the Mustang Club of America. My wife has a 2005 Mustang GT in legend Lime with a 5-speed, long tube headers- and she absolutely loves the car. I have a 2013 Dodge Viper at 600whp so I am accustomed to a car having power, handling, and being able to stop. That's what I want my Boss 429 clone to be like. There is no reason it cant.
Anyway, here are some pics of my gray turd!
Before it was thrown together:


As it sits now:



C4 rebuild:


Rewire:


Car hasn't had lights in who knows how many decades. I really like wiring. It is astonishing me how it DESTROYS time!


The frame has massive rust holes and the floor pan is literally cut up and screwed together. I am surprised that I don't fall through the floor.




It does start right up and that's something though. I recently installed a 1 wire alternator and an electronic ignition.  Everything leaks and the front wheel bearings are scary sounding but its still so nostalgic driving the car. Looking forward to reading your posts and contributing where i can! I have a ton more pics on my build thread on VMF, but i somehow found my way here so I figured id join a club dedicated to the most beautiful Mustang ever made.

According to Bob Gaines, Ford used J-hooks on the front frame rails to tie down cars leaving the factory.
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=13046.msg79761#msg79761

I considered it a "better" fix, because as your previous post stated, these are made from dirty pot metal, and most people don't have access to a welding god.  I do know it has worked for me incredibly well.

I have the same setup as you do, and will try to get you picture of this tomorrow. 

Also, here is a video of them repairing one:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hXJF6hmM8w

If it helps at all, West Coast Cougar specializes in restoring these tilt/tilt-away column's, and they might be worth a call if you can't figure this out:  http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/

Looking great, and I love the Gulfstream Aqua color.  Also, I completely agree with you on the incandescent bulbs.  I think if a person switched every bulb to an LED it would be less noticeable, but I think the warm-look of the incandescent bulbs are more fitting for these cars.

Max Power:  I had the exact same problem as you with the motor (351W) being low in my '69, but my car had been hit at an early point in its life, which may or may not have caused the problem.  I ended up making 4 spacers in a lathe that were (approximately) 3/8" tall, then installed them between the engine mount & block with respectively longer bolts.  I looked things over for about an hour before I determined I had to solve the problem with a motor height adjustment, and I also know the difference between the different factory engine mounts (I had the right ones).  With the projected angle of the engine it moved the fan up the distance I needed and kept me from having a fan interference issue with the factory shroud.  I am also using the factory 24" wide heavy duty cooling package 351W radiator, and I substituted a Ford C9WE-C clutched fan, which was the factory fan for a '69 351W Cougar w/ac.  I have never had close to a problem with heat on this car, and it has AC as well.  I picked that fan because it had good cooling capability, and having a clutch, robbed a lot less horsepower vs. a fixed blade fan.
Here is the same fan I have, but you can find them a lot cheaper with a little searching/patience:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/H-C9WE-C-1969-Mercury-Cougar-7-Blade-cooling-351-fan-w-A-C-/322644573929?hash=item4b1f1d7ee9:g:JbMAAOSwFM1Zc-N4&vxp=mtr

Max Power:  I had the exact same problem as you with the motor (351W) being low in my '69, but my car had been hit at an early point in its life, which may or may not have caused the problem.  I ended up making 4 spacers in a lathe that were (approximately) 3/8" tall, then installed them between the engine mount & block with respectively longer bolts.  I looked things over for about an hour before I determined I had to solve the problem with a motor height adjustment, and I also know the difference between the different factory engine mounts (I had the right ones).  With the projected angle of the engine it moved the fan up the distance I needed and kept me from having a fan interference issue with the factory shroud.  I am also using the factory 24" wide heavy duty cooling package 351W radiator, and I substituted a Ford C9WE-C clutched fan, which was the factory fan for a '69 351W Cougar w/ac.  I have never had close to a problem with heat on this car, and it has AC as well.  I picked that fan because it had good cooling capability, and having a clutch, robbed a lot less horsepower vs. a fixed blade fan.
Here is the same fan I have, but you can find them a lot cheaper with a little searching/patience:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/H-C9WE-C-1969-Mercury-Cougar-7-Blade-cooling-351-fan-w-A-C-/322644573929?hash=item4b1f1d7ee9:g:JbMAAOSwFM1Zc-N4&vxp=mtr

See the beer? Me neither
 

Theoretically you are never supposed to remove the dash VIN, because that is the legal means to identify the car.  If you are not worried about that, when the dash pad and windshield is out, drill out the rivets and re-install where applicable.

Thanks a lot, and kinda new, but I have learned so much through these forums as I have been working on my cars.  I am now trying to give back as a way of repaying all those that have helped me.

That is exactly what I would do in that situation.  Use a heavy duty tape like "Gorilla Tape" and you should be OK.

I would agree you have a '69 Pump, and yes, the pressure outlet on that style is a male connection with the female connector on the hose.  I have also read a '70 style uses a female fitting on the pump, but I have not seen one myself.