mqu02

As a quick update, I was able to find one, and it seems these are more difficult to find than I thought they were.

I need the pedestal (or whatever it is called that is between the door and mirror body) for the passenger side rear view mirror on a '69 Mustang. The one I have has the front mounting area broke off it, but the mirror body itself is fine. Since they are two separate parts, I figured I'd ask about that first. If I can't find a good pedestal, I'd be interested in the assembly too if someone has one.

I completely agree with this recommendation, and also recommend a street valved Bilstein setup. I love the set I have, and it was a huge upgrade from what I had before.

Something to take into consideration is the fabric for the interior sail panels goes underneath the rear window weatherstrip (its actually supposed to be glued to the window frame), and they are supposed to be installed before the rear window for this reason. That is about the only way you can get them tight, and there are a lot of '69's on the road today with drooping interior sail panels because this was done wrong.

Wasn’t that the engine oil cooler on SCJ’s? I thought the (auto) trans cooler was only ever built into the radiator?

I didn't realize that, and I'll have to pay more attention to them from now on.

I was just able to check, and I've got one. It's a little rusty, but it will clean up with a little TLC. I have your address and will try to get it in the mail tomorrow.

Will do on the screws, and I’ll let you know for sure when I get home to look.

Jack, I have a few extra lower dashes (also if anyone is interested), and one isn't in very good shape. I am sure the glove compartment catch is OK though, and I will take a look for you. Scott

The part of me that is obsessed with symmetry is having a real hard time looking at this, but probably won’t change it since I’m going with a factory build on this car. I don’t blame you at all for making them both even, and at least visually, this doesn’t appear to have been one of Fords better ideas.

That is exactly the measurement I needed, and thanks so much! This is the first manual ‘69 I have worked on, and it sounds like mine is right where it needs to be.

I know the clutch pedal on a '69 sits higher than the brake pedal, but mine seems to be excessively high now that it is in the car with everything hooked up. Would someone with a clutch & power brakes be so kind as to give me an approximate measurement of how misaligned they are? Mine clutch pedal is currently about 2.75" higher than my brake pedal when measuring from the center of one pedal to the other using a straight edge, which looks completely wrong, and appears to be offset more than the pictures I have seen. This car is still basically a shell yet, so if I need to fix something it shouldn't be as hard. What is odd is that everything seemed to fit together correctly, and everything seems to function like it should. Additionally, I know there is a difference between a manual brake pedal and a power brake pedal, and I have a power brake pedal installed in the correct location. This is a 4 speed toploader car, with the factory style Z-bar configuration, and I can post some pictures too if someone knows these assemblies pretty well. Thanks in advance.

I am pretty sure I used this one on a Mach 1 pop open cap when the repro had too much of a gap when it closed. GASKET Fuel Cap repro on cap to filler. I think I used 3M weatherstrip adhesive to keep it in place.

Yours definitely do look better than mine. This is really hard to take a picture of, but here are a couple pictures of the stiffness mine have, the ones I have, and a close up picture of an OEM version.

The ones on the red car look just like the reproduction ones I have on mine. They don’t lay flat like they are supposed to, and they hold their shape when you open the hood - especially when they are cold. The OEM versions were a lot more flexible, and even at 50-years old my OEM’s are far more flexible than the new repro’s. When you lift the hood, the lanyards should be flexible enough to immediately point straight to the ground. The OEM versions will do this, but the repro’s do not.