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mqu02 last won the day on August 16 2017

mqu02 had the most liked content!

About mqu02

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  • Birthday 11/19/1973

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  1. Wasn’t that the engine oil cooler on SCJ’s? I thought the (auto) trans cooler was only ever built into the radiator?
  2. I didn't realize that, and I'll have to pay more attention to them from now on.
  3. I was just able to check, and I've got one. It's a little rusty, but it will clean up with a little TLC. I have your address and will try to get it in the mail tomorrow.
  4. Will do on the screws, and I’ll let you know for sure when I get home to look.
  5. Jack, I have a few extra lower dashes (also if anyone is interested), and one isn't in very good shape. I am sure the glove compartment catch is OK though, and I will take a look for you. Scott
  6. The part of me that is obsessed with symmetry is having a real hard time looking at this, but probably won’t change it since I’m going with a factory build on this car. I don’t blame you at all for making them both even, and at least visually, this doesn’t appear to have been one of Fords better ideas.
  7. That is exactly the measurement I needed, and thanks so much! This is the first manual ‘69 I have worked on, and it sounds like mine is right where it needs to be.
  8. I know the clutch pedal on a '69 sits higher than the brake pedal, but mine seems to be excessively high now that it is in the car with everything hooked up. Would someone with a clutch & power brakes be so kind as to give me an approximate measurement of how misaligned they are? Mine clutch pedal is currently about 2.75" higher than my brake pedal when measuring from the center of one pedal to the other using a straight edge, which looks completely wrong, and appears to be offset more than the pictures I have seen. This car is still basically a shell yet, so if I need to fix something it shouldn't be as hard. What is odd is that everything seemed to fit together correctly, and everything seems to function like it should. Additionally, I know there is a difference between a manual brake pedal and a power brake pedal, and I have a power brake pedal installed in the correct location. This is a 4 speed toploader car, with the factory style Z-bar configuration, and I can post some pictures too if someone knows these assemblies pretty well. Thanks in advance.
  9. I am pretty sure I used this one on a Mach 1 pop open cap when the repro had too much of a gap when it closed. GASKET Fuel Cap repro on cap to filler. I think I used 3M weatherstrip adhesive to keep it in place.
  10. Yours definitely do look better than mine. This is really hard to take a picture of, but here are a couple pictures of the stiffness mine have, the ones I have, and a close up picture of an OEM version.
  11. The ones on the red car look just like the reproduction ones I have on mine. They don’t lay flat like they are supposed to, and they hold their shape when you open the hood - especially when they are cold. The OEM versions were a lot more flexible, and even at 50-years old my OEM’s are far more flexible than the new repro’s. When you lift the hood, the lanyards should be flexible enough to immediately point straight to the ground. The OEM versions will do this, but the repro’s do not.
  12. I think the problem you are having is because the reproduction lanyards (or the ones I have) are not near as flexible as the factory OEM lanyards were. Has anyone else noticed this, or have a source for a more correct lanyard? (I have a decent OEM set, and there is a huge difference between them).
  13. Thanks for the reply, and sounds like you had the same issue. The 2 pictures I posted show the post on both sides of the Z-bar, and it interferes on both sides. The spring will fit the Z-bar without the post installed, I just really find it odd that it is there in the first place if you are supposed to remove it, and thought I was doing something wrong.
  14. Here is another picture with the post reversed, and hitting the H Pipe, plus having an interference with the bellhousing and block plate.
  15. I am working on a '69 Mach 1, 351W w/toploader and am having an issue with the tension spring (or whatever it is called) that connects the clutch fork spring to the z bar, or equalizer bar. I thought I had the correct z bar for a 351W, and this is the one I have: https://www.npdlink.com/product/bar-assy-clutch-equalizer/105804?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dequalizer%2Bbar%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969 Everything has fit fine until I put the factory style H-Pipe in, and now I don't have room for the post that connects to the Z bar to hold the other end of the spring. Have I got something wrong on this, or does anyone know what might be wrong with this? (Note: It is kind of hard to see in the picture, but if that post was in its respective hole on the z bar it would be hitting the H pipe, and if I flipped it around 180-degrees it would be hitting the bellhousing and block plate.)
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