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69ShelbyGT350H last won the day on July 31 2018

69ShelbyGT350H had the most liked content!

About 69ShelbyGT350H

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    v8 powered poster

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    Miami, Fl. USA
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    69/70 Mustangs

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  1. I'll be going, have a house rented away from the noise. :-) Mustangweek.com
  2. I get a lot of my info from the Mustang Club of America's Event page https://www.mustang.org/content.php/238-Mustang-Shows I just got back from the 3rd annual PITS event in Tn and just signed up for next years event. The 55th Anniversary of the Mustang event is going on in NC this year, this month. I looked and Officially the signup is closed but saw some events were still taking our money! For a Mustang only event, Mustang Week @ Myrtle Beach, SC on September 2-8 http://mustangweek.com/
  3. Wish I could. The PITS event drained my pocket book a little and I need to do repairs on my transmission. Looks like I will have to wait till the 60th anniversary.
  4. See all my photos @ https://redshost.com/media/2019PITS/index.html English Mountian Raceway video @ https://redshost.com/media/2019PITS/Video/English_Mountian_Raceway.html Not bad runs with a messed up transmission.
  5. I'll be 58 this year. Bought the car in 1980 when I was 19, drove it for a couple of years and put it away after Hurricane Andrew. Got back to work on it in 2015 and just got it back on the road.
  6. 1st place in my 1st show. Next stop, PITS! https://www.facebook.com/groups/poniesinthesmokies/ https://poniesinthesmokies.com/
  7. Sorry, should have read the subject better. My comment is from the 69 wiring manual.
  8. Normally in a non-tach car, the resistor wire runs from the ignition switch connector to the firewall plug. Here it is joined with a brown wire that comes from the starter relay. This brown wire is what supplies the coil/points with the full 12v for startup. On a Tach car, the resistor wire runs from the Tach to the firewall plug. Again, the brown wire is used to get the full 12v (battery voltage) for startup. Edit: As Midlife has indicated, this is for the 69 only. 70 is different.
  9. From under the metal dash and looking over the metal dash with the pad off, you can remove the plastic ducts from the back of the vents. They will pull off the clips toward the front of the car and then slip off the cloth and/or plastic vent tubing. Remove the elbows from the back, out the bottom of the dash. Each vent has 3 Phillips screws on the back side. Using a shorty Phillips screwdriver you have to work blind or use a mirror and you can back them out or totally remove them. If loosened, turn the back mount clockwise while holding the vent against the dash. Once the vent mount cup is off the front of the vent will come out of the metal dash. To re-install, put the 3 screws in each vent a couple of turns. Put the vent into the metal dash and then the vent cup in the back, sliding the cup over the 3 screws. Rotate the vent cup to lock it over the 3 screws and then tighten the Phillips screws. Attach the elbows to the ducting and then press back onto the vents. I just had to take my vents back out after mounting the metal dash on the car as I had not installed the dash wiring first. Wiring needs to go first. The rear harness to dash harness attaches behind the drivers side A/C vent, so it had to come out. The passenger door wiring comes out behind the passenger A/C vent, it is next for me.
  10. I rebuilt my under dash A/C box and replaced the evaporator and heater core with parts from NPD. I purchased the Classic Air/Original Air 69-70 Mustang/Cougar A/C Compressor Upgrade Kit V8 STAGE-1, which did not include the condenser or expansion valve. This kit is $499. They also offer a 69-70 Mustang/Cougar A/C Performance Upgrade Kit V8 STAGE-2 kit that includes the condenser, Sight Glass Hose, and expansion valve. This kit is $799. I got the Stage 1 kit and shopped around for the other parts and got them for less than the cost of the Stage 2 kit. I see they offer a satin black compressor for an additional $75. Get a can of satin spray paint for less than $7. Along with the compressor, I also painted all the nuts and bolts. Test fitting before painting all the parts. After Almost finished
  11. Yep, drove it back in the 80's and 90's on those tires. It did take a lot more throttle to spin them like that and I can now break them loose on a roll, something I could not do before. The car is not meant for everyday driving, and I have a set of 17" Legendary GT9's with Nitto 555 G2's on the way for when I do want to drive it. The original Shelby rims and Polyglass tires will be reserved for show purposes only.
  12. Not going to argue with you, I have 3 York/Tecumseh compressors sitting on my shelf. I have used both and I'm not going to use them for the reasons I have already mentioned. Please let the OP read these articles, and you may as well. Feel free to come up with articles contrary to these. https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/450103-sanden-c-compressor-vs-factory-york.html https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/york-vs-sanden-a-c-clutch.495791/ https://autoacforum.com/messageview.cfm?catid=2&threadid=15986 https://nostalgicac.com/compressors.html https://www.vintageair.com/basic-auto-air-conditioning-compressor-facts/
  13. Thanks, you seem to know about the Sanden, but I will contest the heat buildup at idle speeds. Especially on a Big Block. rmarks wanted to know his options. I wanted to identify some of the differences for him. Most unmodified Mustangs do have cooling issues, and running the A/C does not help that. Many York compressors do have something wrong with them, they are old, worn, and they vibrate. So it really comes down to what rmarks wants, sticking with the original looking and operating York, or the non-original Sanden?
  14. The Sanden compressors put much lower stresses on the belt due to its higher efficiency and 7-piston variety for R-134 wobbly plate layout vs the York's 2-piston on a crankshaft construction. Sanden's are a little quieter. The Sandens are so popular because they operate smoothly, with a minimum amount of torque required to operate, because the load is distributed over multiple short-stroke cylinders. The Sanden compressor has another characteristic which we like, especially for street rods: its short stroke, low-displacement-per-cylinder configuration tends to make it less efficient at low RPM ranges (1200 and below), the same speed at which our engine-driven radiator fans are least efficient. This puts less heat load on the condenser and consequently on the radiator at idle speeds. On the average classic car requiring a smaller sized condenser, that is a blessing. Above 1200 RPM, efficiency rapidly increases; at operating speeds of 1800 to 2400 RPM it is about the most efficient pump on the market. It can be operated at continuous crank speeds of 6000 RPM. These characteristics make the Sanden an almost ideal performance compressor. The York compressor is a two cylinder, reciprocating pump. The reciprocating motion causes it to vibrate more than modern Sanden compressors. The York also has higher torque requirements for peak pumping, and they don’t like higher RPM operating speeds.
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