Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


69ShelbyGT350H last won the day on July 31 2018

69ShelbyGT350H had the most liked content!

About 69ShelbyGT350H

  • Rank
    v8 powered poster

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Miami, Fl. USA
  • Interests
    69/70 Mustangs

Recent Profile Visitors

1,087 profile views
  1. 69ShelbyGT350H

    1970 non-tach car resistor wire IN the switch?

    I was trying to help, whats your excuse?
  2. 69ShelbyGT350H

    1970 non-tach car resistor wire IN the switch?

    Sorry, should have read the subject better. My comment is from the 69 wiring manual.
  3. 69ShelbyGT350H

    1970 non-tach car resistor wire IN the switch?

    Normally in a non-tach car, the resistor wire runs from the ignition switch connector to the firewall plug. Here it is joined with a brown wire that comes from the starter relay. This brown wire is what supplies the coil/points with the full 12v for startup. On a Tach car, the resistor wire runs from the Tach to the firewall plug. Again, the brown wire is used to get the full 12v (battery voltage) for startup. Edit: As Midlife has indicated, this is for the 69 only. 70 is different.
  4. 69ShelbyGT350H

    Does anyone repop the A/C Diffusers

    From under the metal dash and looking over the metal dash with the pad off, you can remove the plastic ducts from the back of the vents. They will pull off the clips toward the front of the car and then slip off the cloth and/or plastic vent tubing. Remove the elbows from the back, out the bottom of the dash. Each vent has 3 Phillips screws on the back side. Using a shorty Phillips screwdriver you have to work blind or use a mirror and you can back them out or totally remove them. If loosened, turn the back mount clockwise while holding the vent against the dash. Once the vent mount cup is off the front of the vent will come out of the metal dash. To re-install, put the 3 screws in each vent a couple of turns. Put the vent into the metal dash and then the vent cup in the back, sliding the cup over the 3 screws. Rotate the vent cup to lock it over the 3 screws and then tighten the Phillips screws. Attach the elbows to the ducting and then press back onto the vents. I just had to take my vents back out after mounting the metal dash on the car as I had not installed the dash wiring first. Wiring needs to go first. The rear harness to dash harness attaches behind the drivers side A/C vent, so it had to come out. The passenger door wiring comes out behind the passenger A/C vent, it is next for me.
  5. I rebuilt my under dash A/C box and replaced the evaporator and heater core with parts from NPD. I purchased the Classic Air/Original Air 69-70 Mustang/Cougar A/C Compressor Upgrade Kit V8 STAGE-1, which did not include the condenser or expansion valve. This kit is $499. They also offer a 69-70 Mustang/Cougar A/C Performance Upgrade Kit V8 STAGE-2 kit that includes the condenser, Sight Glass Hose, and expansion valve. This kit is $799. I got the Stage 1 kit and shopped around for the other parts and got them for less than the cost of the Stage 2 kit. I see they offer a satin black compressor for an additional $75. Get a can of satin spray paint for less than $7. Along with the compressor, I also painted all the nuts and bolts. Test fitting before painting all the parts. After Almost finished
  6. 69ShelbyGT350H

    1969 Shelby GT350H Build

    Yep, drove it back in the 80's and 90's on those tires. It did take a lot more throttle to spin them like that and I can now break them loose on a roll, something I could not do before. The car is not meant for everyday driving, and I have a set of 17" Legendary GT9's with Nitto 555 G2's on the way for when I do want to drive it. The original Shelby rims and Polyglass tires will be reserved for show purposes only.
  7. Not going to argue with you, I have 3 York/Tecumseh compressors sitting on my shelf. I have used both and I'm not going to use them for the reasons I have already mentioned. Please let the OP read these articles, and you may as well. Feel free to come up with articles contrary to these. https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/450103-sanden-c-compressor-vs-factory-york.html https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/york-vs-sanden-a-c-clutch.495791/ https://autoacforum.com/messageview.cfm?catid=2&threadid=15986 https://nostalgicac.com/compressors.html https://www.vintageair.com/basic-auto-air-conditioning-compressor-facts/
  8. Thanks, you seem to know about the Sanden, but I will contest the heat buildup at idle speeds. Especially on a Big Block. rmarks wanted to know his options. I wanted to identify some of the differences for him. Most unmodified Mustangs do have cooling issues, and running the A/C does not help that. Many York compressors do have something wrong with them, they are old, worn, and they vibrate. So it really comes down to what rmarks wants, sticking with the original looking and operating York, or the non-original Sanden?
  9. The Sanden compressors put much lower stresses on the belt due to its higher efficiency and 7-piston variety for R-134 wobbly plate layout vs the York's 2-piston on a crankshaft construction. Sanden's are a little quieter. The Sandens are so popular because they operate smoothly, with a minimum amount of torque required to operate, because the load is distributed over multiple short-stroke cylinders. The Sanden compressor has another characteristic which we like, especially for street rods: its short stroke, low-displacement-per-cylinder configuration tends to make it less efficient at low RPM ranges (1200 and below), the same speed at which our engine-driven radiator fans are least efficient. This puts less heat load on the condenser and consequently on the radiator at idle speeds. On the average classic car requiring a smaller sized condenser, that is a blessing. Above 1200 RPM, efficiency rapidly increases; at operating speeds of 1800 to 2400 RPM it is about the most efficient pump on the market. It can be operated at continuous crank speeds of 6000 RPM. These characteristics make the Sanden an almost ideal performance compressor. The York compressor is a two cylinder, reciprocating pump. The reciprocating motion causes it to vibrate more than modern Sanden compressors. The York also has higher torque requirements for peak pumping, and they don’t like higher RPM operating speeds.
  10. 69ShelbyGT350H

    1969 Shelby GT350H Build

    I rebuilt the power steering control valve, but the system still got pretty hot. Took the power steering pump apart and found evidence of rust in the reservoir. Guessing some rust must have gotten into the pump I got a reman pump and changed it out. The power steering is now leaking all over the place, but it worked great while it was hooked up. Had to take the belt off so I would not run it dry. So it's been almost 4 years since I rebuilt the FMX using Ken BadShoe's rebuild video. Today I finally felt it was time to test it and see if it really does more than just go in and out of gear. Sorry for the small size of the video, it's from a friends iPhone. I keep telling him he needs an Android... http://redshost.com/media/firstdrive/ Yep, very little throttle as the video starts, the tires are just sitting there spinning. Can you say, torque monster?
  11. I went with a Sanden kit from Classic Auto Air. It's not the original look, but it weighs less, is more efficient and I like to think that it can handle higher rpm's better. To maximize the cooling and have better performance I'll be using the FrostyCool 134 Replacement refrigerant. Its one of those propane based products and some may have bad things to say about it, but I have yet to hear of anyone who properly filled their system having an A/C related death. Painted it non-gloss black (I forget exactly which variant) so as to not make it stand out. Hoses not installed yet.
  12. 69ShelbyGT350H

    Does anyone repop the A/C Diffusers

    Felt, not Velcro. Velcro would be too thick and then you would have problems turning the vent/defuser.
  13. 69ShelbyGT350H

    Does anyone repop the A/C Diffusers

    Mine did not have any Velcro. Where does it go?
  14. 69ShelbyGT350H


    Her69fastback, I might have missed which engine you have, 351, 302, 289, etc. If its a 351w, check the valve opening and closing's and see if it might have a 302 cam and firing order in it. When I bought my Comp Cam 280H, they did not make one for the 351w, so I had to use the 302 version and change my firing order to the 302 order.
  15. 69ShelbyGT350H


    Pertronix Ignitor III with a FlameThrower coil is a good combination. Never leave your ignition ON with out the engine running with these, even though there have been no reports with the Ignitor III having a problem, the Ignitor and Ignitor II have been known to fail. briefly, turn your ignition on and check the voltage from the pos side of the coil to the ground of the battery. You should get just about battery voltage. If you are getting more than 2 volts less than the battery, you have a resistor in line that needs to be removed/bypassed. All Ignitor units need the full 12V from the battery to work properly. Check the voltage and turn the ignition key switch OFF. The Ignitor III Rev-Limiter is preset at 5500 RPM’s. The Rev-Limiter can be user set to a minimum 4000 and a maximum 9000 RPM’s or turned off. All external resistors must be removed to achieve optimum performance from the Ignitor III ignition system. http://www.pertronix.com/docs/instruction-sheets/71181.pdf