1969_Mach1

rwcstang, sorry had to chime in.  If the dist gear spins on the shaft, the gear and/or the shaft is bad.  It is a press fit requiring special tools or a hydraulic press to install.  Why the roll pin broke could be too much oil pressure or the gear to dist shaft fit was bad from the beginning, thus, only the roll pin was holding the gear in place.  High volume oil pumps in a 351W based motor are argued both good and bad.  Typically, high volume oil pumps are not needed on a small block stock or street performance motor.  But, the 351W has large main bearings.  Thus, the argument on both sides for a high volume oil pump.  Also, bearing clearances have a large affect on whether or not a high volume oil pump is needed.

What was the original color of your (the OP) car?  Was it a decent original color?  Did I miss that or was it never posted?  I use to always want a color change thinking it would look better.  Anymore, in my mind, a color change looks different and not necessarily better.  Then down the road, if the car is ever for sale, I think most buyers prefer a car, regardless of what kind it is, in its original color.  I know at the time the car is being painted you might be thinking that will never happen, but you never know.

Looks good.  Did the engine builder mention when to change the oil and filter for the first time?  Some go 500 miles, some (and myself) do it after the initial cam break in.  Just helps to get all the assembly lube and any particulates out.

Now that barnett468 is mentioning a bunch of othre stuff I thought move the heater hose away from the exhaust manifold might be a good idea.

Best choice in list so far.  Original looking muscle cars are my preference.

Now I am wondering why does the steering geometry change?  Is the pitman arm in a slightly different location from original with a Borgeson steering box now causing bind?  The post by det0326 was the first I have heard of the CPP steering box.  It is a new new box and not something retrofit from another vehicle.  It looks much closer to the original is size and shape.  But does the CPP box have the return to center issue?
 
I am seriously considering reinstalling power steering and simply cannot fit to my liking the OEM system.  It's tough considering the advantages and disadvantages of each.  I too wish these aftermarket companies (not just steering boxes) would consider how their designs work and fit with the others components they affect.  And not just provide something that kinda-sorta-maybe-sometimes fits and works with modifications in some cases but maybe not always.

Looks nice.  Chamfer the bolt holes a little.  The original bolts have a bevel to fit into the chamfered hole on the original cross member.  Since bolts holes are a little over size it prevents movement.  Maybe add some gussets to the formed angles to strengthen them.

Goes on the emergency brake assembly.  It's the switch to control the brake light in the dash when the emergency brake is applied.  That feature was optional in 1969 but the switch was installed regardless.  The light it would operate is the same brake warning indicator light controlled by the switch on the pressure differential/proportioning valve.  My Mach 1 has that switch on the emergency brake and no wiring to connect to it so my car did not have that optional feature.

TCP makes nice products and has been in the suspension market longer than many others.  Maybe it's just me.  But, it doesn't seem right that a well established business is promoting their product within posts in a forum like this.  It's great and very much appreciated to help with answers and solutions.  But do it in an objective manner that doesn't promote your own products.  In my mind one member recommending a brand or mfg is fine.  But a well established mfg promoting their own product in a post just doesn't seem right. 

I also want to address the original poster. Welcome to the forum.

If you've never driven or owned an old car, it a romantic notion that you'll be able to get an old car almost 50...to drive (and feel)like a new car. I don't know if you ever done this or not but I find a lot of people who have never driven a classic on a regular basis think they can make it feel like a new car. It's just not going to happen. The whole feel of an old car I'd much different. Steering, feedback, sound....ergonomics of where everything is even contributes to the feel.

Now you can build it to to handle really well but that won't make it feel like driving a new car. Driving "feel" and handling should be considered different things. You can make it handle extremely well but the driving experience might suck. Or you can make it drive well but the handling sucks. If it's a track car...handling is what you may want and in this case it'll drive well for you on the track. Hand that same car to someone who wants a car that drives well on the street and I think they'll be disappointed. Drag cars are different, street cars are different, restomod/protour...different, and a track car are different all with different proposes and different "feel" built to meet a specific or or mix of certain functions.

This is my goal.....What I want is a car that I can drive around town, handles well compared to street cars, has good drive-ability and if fun to drive...on the street. So my car would not drive real well on the track or at the drag strip compared to cars built for those specific duties. Those cars would not meet my needs either though...I don't want a rail suspension on a car I drive over train tracks or down the highway in traffic. I also don't need a 10 second car or the street-ability issues that accompany it.


Long story short....read and research. Figure out your goals and you'll need to build to that goal. We'll help you reach that specific goal with experience and advice. You'll sacrifice some things to accomplish others and have to do what you can with your budget. And if not anything else, remember the "feel" or the "way it drives" does not equal how it handles....common misconception.

TCP makes nice products and has been in the suspension market longer than many others.  Maybe it's just me.  But, it doesn't seem right that a well established business is promoting their product within posts in a forum like this.  It's great and very much appreciated to help with answers and solutions.  But do it in an objective manner that doesn't promote your own products.  In my mind one member recommending a brand or mfg is fine.  But a well established mfg promoting their own product in a post just doesn't seem right. 

Yeah, he's doing great.  I'm sure he's wondering why the shop couldn't sort this out.  It made no sense for the timing pointer to be removed.  After the timing and carb is adjusted the issues should be solved.

Yes the cable will pull out of the gear in the transmission.  Fortunately, the gear will not fall into the transmission.  It's more common to make certain the inner cable is pushed all the way in.  If the inner cable is not pushed all the way in, the cable housing usually will not go onto the back of the speedo completely.

If it's the one that matches OEM then it is the better choice.  They are made much different and stronger than the less expensive aftermarket export braces.  I don't recall part numbers but the one I purchased from NPD was advertised as identical to the original.  I use to have an original and these are in fact almost identical.  The original I use to have still seemed to be made from a little thicker material.
 
From my experience the OEM copy repro fits just like the OEM did.  Because of years of wear on the car I had to learn how to jack up the car to open up the top of the shock towers a little.  Essentially, loosen all the top fender bolts except the front and rear bolt.  Then jack up the car at the frame location where the lower control arms attach to the frame.  Two floor jacks make it easier.  The top of the shock towers will open up about 1/4". 

I think in the US the technical term we use is "engine run-on".  At least that's what I was taught.  After you shut off the ignition switch the engine tries to keep running.  It sounds terrible which might where the term dieseling comes from.  Self ignition does describe what is happening.

On a large 408 cubic inch motor it's probably not so noticeable.  I am not promoting one type over the other because they both have their place.  But on mild built smaller carbureted motors, 351 and smaller, I have noticed an obvious low end performance difference between single and dual plane intakes.  Especially comparing a Victor Jr. to something like a Performer RPM, RPM Air Gap, or Weiand Stealth. 
 
Don't get me wrong.  I am a bit old school and like the more even A/F distribution of a single plane intake.  Especially when looking at how the dual plane runners need to be routed on small block Fords.  I compromised and lost a little bottom end with a Torker II over a Performer RPM or Weiand Stealth.  But the Torker II fits well even with a 1" tall tapered spacer and my spark plugs all look the same.  The spark plugs never looked the same with a Performer RPM.  And with a Performer RPM or Weiand Stealth the idle rhythm pattern always seemed odd like there were lean misfires occurring which I don't have with a single plane intake.
 
This is merely an educated guess.  But, considering the nature of how TBI operates compared to a carb, I think with TBI there wouldn't be as noticeable of a low end performance loss with a single plane over a dual plane manifold.  It would be nice if a member here would have some real world comparisons on this.

True that you cannot compare TBI or port FI to a carb.  A carb relies on the signals inside the intake manifold to operate which are stronger on dual plane intakes than single plane intakes.  EFI doesn't operate based on those signals.  But keep in mind that intake runner lengths and cross section profiles also contribute to the RPM range of an intake manifold.  Also, on single plane intakes, at low speeds, the air/fuel charge inside the intake gets more diluted with exhaust gases from valve overlap than on dual plane intakes.  Another reason why dual plane intakes operate better at low speeds than single pane intakes.
 
On the other side since single plane intakes usually have more even air/fuel distribution to each cylinder I can see why some posts state that FiTech systems operate better on single plane intakes.  On a dual plane if there is any difference in signal strength from side to side a carburetor can compensate for that where as TBI of port EFI cannot. 
 
The old Holley Street Dominator intakes for 351W's use to make a lot of low and mid range power for a single plane intake.  I don't know how they compare to today's single and dual plane intakes.

I was only able to get an RPM Air Gap to fit my 69 Mach 1 with a 351W with the following air cleaner combination.  3" tall 14 inch dia. filter, Moroso air cleaner lid and base with the base modified to drop 1-1/2".  This gave me about 5/8" hood to air cleaner clearance.  The clearance between the air cleaner lid and the choke horn was only about 3/8".  That was too small and restricted air flow so I ultimately swapped out the intake for a Torker II and a 4-hole to open 1" tall tapered spacer below the carb.
 
The RPM Air Gap might fit with EFI since there is no choke horn to interfere with a drop base air cleaner.  As long as you are not using a shaker hood.  I would carefully mock it up and not bolt it down.  Then, if it doesn't fit exchange it for something different.

I'm sure you'll get it sorted out.  My 2 cents, I'm not a fan of diaphragm clutches with the stock linkage simply because the geometry of the stock linkage was designed to work with a 3 finger clutch and not a diaphragm clutch.  Then for those that really push their motors to high RPM's, by design of the Bellville spring in a diaphragm clutch tends to stay inverted at high RPM due to centrifugal forces.  Back when I was in high school is wasn't uncommon for a clutch pedal to stay on the floor when shifting at high RPM with diaphragm clutches.  When the engine RPM came down the clutch pedal would come back up. 

The 69 has bump stops in the same location.  From your picture the bump stop is broke off on the 69.  What remains is the metal base of the bump stop and the mounting bolt.  Hopefully the car wasn't lowered so much somebody removed the bump stops on the 69.

If it is a Fel-Pro gasket, they always list the compressed thickness.  If you know the gasket part number Summit Racing lists the specs.  Every Fel-Pro gasket I've installed on small block Ford's had a compressed thickness of 0.039" to 0.042" depending on the gasket model.  Marine head gaskets have a thicker compressed thickness than what I listed, closer to 0.050".

Some harmonic balancers have a shoulder to locate the pulley and the pulley fits snug over the shoulder.  Some harmonic balancers have a counter bore and the pulley has a shoulder that fits snug into the counter bore.  Make certain you have the correct combination.  The pulley bolts plus the clearance in the bolt holes are not intended to locate the pulley on the crank centerline. 

Fans are typically not needed over 35 MPH.  You can see the blades flex on a flex fan when revving the engine.  I don't know if they will ever completely flatten out, but the drag definitely reduces at higher speeds.  Clutch fans are nice.  I like them on a stock daily driver.  But my hesitations with installing a clutch fan on my Mach 1 is first every aftermarket fan clutch I have seen has a maximum speed limit of 4000 RPM.  What can happen to it above that, I don't know.  Second, fan clutches don't like to sit for long periods of time, the silicon fluid inside settles on the bottom.  Third, the fans for a clutch setup are rigid, not a flex style.  So a fan clutch and rigid fan is a lot more weight hanging off the front of the alternator than a flex fan alone.   Anyway, that's my 2 cents.
 
To the best of my knowledge the 351W never came with a clutch fan setup in 1969 or 1970.

I don't know what that is but it doesn't look like the bracket that aligns the hose on the back of the power steering pump.

I think I would simply take that belt to the parts store and ask for a belt one inch longer and try it.  From the number your belt is 47 inches long.  Try a 48 inch long belt.  I'm guessing its YCO 15480.  Non A/C cars use a larger diameter water pump pulley than A/C cars so I think there is about a 1 inch difference in belt lengths between the two.