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1969_Mach1

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Everything posted by 1969_Mach1

  1. Yeah, it doesn't sound good. I think I'd look for something else if I were in the market for cylinder heads.
  2. I installed Moser Engineering axles in my 1969 Mach 1. I like them, no issues. However, make certain you get axles with the access hole for the retainer plate nuts otherwise it's more difficult to install and remove them. Also, just my preference, but I don't like the C-shape retainer plates aftermarket axles come with. They are made of a thick material, but the stock style seem better.
  3. That would be my first option as well. If there is no success finding an OEM booster, maybe a different set of valve covers. The Ford Racing valve covers are fairly large. Also, think about later down the road if the booster or master cylinder needs to be removed when putting together the combination of parts. Getting to the spark plugs will probably be fun with those tall valve covers. I had Ford Racing tall valve covers on my 351W. Everything fit okay but I got tired of the struggle to get to some of the spark plugs. I switched to short valve covers. They clear the roller rockers and spark plugs are much easier to reach.
  4. Have you removed the hold down clamp and looked closely at the dist. housing where the clamp contacts? There might be some kind of indentation in the housing from the clamp which is why tightening the nut moves the timing. Also, like aslanefe mentioned, 6 deg. BTDC base timing is usually not enough for small block Ford's. Most start at 10 deg. BTDC as long as that doesn't created too much total timing, then adjust from there as needed.
  5. Glad you got those removed. In the end, those were the wrong clips for that application. For that application, I've always seem internal snap rings with an eye (small hole) at each end for use of snap ring pliers.
  6. On my 1969 Mach1, 351W I use the Weiand 8023 with a 1/2" tall phenolic carburetor spacer. With stock motor mounts, an aluminum Moroso drop base air cleaner with 3" tall filter has almost 1/2" clearance to the stock hood (no shaker). I did trim the air cleaner base slightly, about 1/8", to drop it a little more. Without the carb spacer it would fit much better. So far, the air cleaner hasn't yet touched the hood. The shape of the air cleaner top makes a significant difference for hood clearance. A stock air cleaner or the K&N style of air cleaner top type might not fit. Another think to keep in mind, some drop base air cleaners do not clear electric choke assemblies.
  7. I installed the 5-leaf mid-eye rear leaf springs from Mustangs Plus a long time ago (about 1996) and haven't had any issues with them. The car is rarely driven, but they have been fine. If you want stock ride height springs I think you will be shocked on how high the ride height is regardless of who makes them. Many have a first thought there is something wrong with the spring, but these cars had a fairly tall ride height in stock form.
  8. Those valve covers are worth a fair amount of money. The originals are sought after for anybody with a Y-block motor. And they are rare and extremely hard to get these days.
  9. When I did the conversion on my 1969 Mach 1 a long time ago, I kind of "eyeballed" it using the clutch rod then noticed a dimple in the firewall where is looked like the rod should pass through. Maybe I got lucky, drilled the hole to fit the rubber boot using the dimple for the center and it worked.
  10. In 1969 the Ford shifter was being used. In 1970 Ford used a Hurst Competition Plus shifter. However, it sounds like somebody installed the wrong Hurst shifter in your car. I installed a Hurst Competition Plus shifter in my 1969 Mach1 and it fits just fine, no odd interference anywhere.
  11. I'm looking at mechanical fuel pumps for a 390 in another project of mine. The specs for stock pumps give a minimum flow rate of 25 GPH at 500 engine RPM. Aftermarket performance pumps like Edelbrock or Holley only give a maximum flow rate spec. Before spending $160 and up for an aftermarket pump I have some questions. 1) Motor is mild and will make roughly 400 hp. I know 25 GPH is too low for that, but that is an idle spec for the stock pump. Will the stock pump flow much more at higher engine RPM? 2) Is there a stock pump that flows more than 25 gph? If so what is the application? Thanks
  12. In my experience Valvoline oils tend to leak more than most others. Try a different oil. I've had good luck with basic Sta-Lube GL4 rated gear oil. I just replaced it again this last weekend and refilled with Pen Grade GL4 rated gear oil. I'll see how that works after driving it a bit. If the trans is out of the car, I'd also vent the trans through the original top plate. It seems to be a more direct path for venting the trans than through the rear bearing then the vent installed in the tail shaft. When the top plate gasket is installed correctly the vent hole in it is no where near the vent hole in the top plate.
  13. The carb pad height might be close to original. But, the Performer intake moves the carb forward quite a bit. That might cause interference with the distributor.
  14. How did the CPP steering box fit? I looked at those and when I contacted CPP they told me the shock tower in the steering box area often has to be clearanced with a hammer for the steering box to fit. They didn't know why it fit on some cars but not all. That was the only reason I went with Borgeson which then caused it's own set of issues.
  15. I wish I knew about the roller idler arm before I did the conversion. I would have definitely tried that first. Before the conversion I had changed from factory power steering to factory manual steering. I'm thinking eventually I'll remove the Borgeson power steering and go back to the manual steering setup. When I do, I'll definitely install a roller idler arm. When I did the conversion and came across the steering column shaft issue after collapsing it, I called Borgeson. Their response was they never installed the kit on a 1969 Mustang and have never heard of that issue occurring. I sent them pictures of the column shafts showing the plastic rings with a description of the issue and they acted like they could not understand what was occurring after the column was collapsed. In hindsight, I should have stopped there, returned everything and used the money elsewhere.
  16. I installed a Borgeson kit on my 196 Mach 1, 351W and 4sp car. The car also has JBA short headers. I installed the Borgeson kit before Open Track Racing offered a modified Z-bar so I had to modify my own. It works just fine. My concerns with the Borgeson power steering: 1. When collapsing the column to fit the Borgeson steering box the inner and outer column shafts fit loosely and rattle. This is because the plastic rings Ford installs to lock the inner and outer column shafts together end up in a new position where they no longer serve part of their purpose. This thread by another member shows the plastic rings for the inner column shaft. Collapsible Steering shaft bushings - 1969-70 Technical Forum - 69stang.com and 1969stang.com The 1969 and 1970 Mustang Supersite 2. The steering for the most part does not return to center. This bothers some, but I'm okay with it. 3. If you want one finger Cadillac style power steering, then this will be fine. There is absolutely no road feel in the steering wheel. I tried reducing the pump pressure, but it's either Cadillac style power steering or no assist at idle. I likely would never do the conversion again. And if this ever has any issues I'll go back to the stock steering box.
  17. It was originally thought the X-pipe would produce more hp. Some testing shows that the difference is small. I run an X-pipe and I will say the exhaust note is much different. Especially at idle the exhaust note is more mellow. If you have some type of performance cam it will sound more mild at idle with an X-pipe as opposed to an H-pipe. When X-pipes were first introduced the theory was the tubing for the X section should be the next size larger than the rest of the exhaust. I.E. 2-1/2" diameter exhaust would have a 3" diameter X. That's how mine is set up but I don't that that theory holds true today. Straight Exhaust vs. H Pipe vs. X Pipe! Engine Masters Ep. 22 - Bing video
  18. If you can easily get the car to a muffler shop, then have them connect your existing exhaust to the new headers. Also, consider installed an X-pipe in stead of the H-pipe. I wouldn't think the JBA H-pipe will bolt to your Hedman headers.
  19. On the front of the shaft for the countershaft cluster I applied a good amount of Ultra Grey silicone. It gets pushed against the bell housing anyway. But for that shaft, I didn't see anything to stop leaks. I guess Ford was relying on the fitment to the case to prevent leaks. Are you certain your trans is vented okay?
  20. gcc6: Your Mach 1 is painted almost identical to one my older brother had back in 1979. One tip with after rebuilding the toploader trans, change the oil shortly after driving it. I wasn't aware that it's normal to get some metal shavings after a rebuild and didn't change the oil soon enough in mine. Metal shavings then destroyed the rear bearing and I had to do a second rebuild.
  21. Don't know where to het those. I saw them when I had my column apart for the Borgeson steering box conversion. There are corresponding holes in the outer shaft at those groove locations. My thought is Ford would assemble the shafts and inject Nylon or Teflon, etc. through the holes in the outer shaft to lock the two shaft pieces together at the correct length. In an accident the plastic would shear so the column could collapse. After discovering that I will never use a Borgeson steering box conversion again as part of the process is collapsing the shaft which breaks those plastic pieces. If you leave those plastic pieces out, there will be play in the steering and a faint metal to metal clank will be heard as you jiggle the steering wheel. Short of getting another shaft that has not been collapsed yet, I don't know how to resolve the issue.
  22. With those, even the close ratio versions have a fairly low first gear ratio. My thoughts with using a close ratio top loader 4sp in my Mach 1, I'd select one of the middle two close ratio versions and use something like a 3.50 or 3.70 rear axle ratio. The overdrive ratio will depend on how you want to drive on the freeway.
  23. JBA short headers for a 351W and on a 351W fit just fine with a Borgeson power steering box and stock motor mounts. They also offer long tube headers for the 351W in a 1969 Mustang.
  24. Is the fan a reproduction 5 blade fan? I originally had that type on my 1969 Mach 1 with a 351W and it didn't move much air, especially at idle. I found a stock 6 blade clutch fan from a 1969 Cougar with a 351W and installed it with a new Hayden clutch. It works much better.
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