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Trinitys last won the day on March 28 2016

Trinitys had the most liked content!

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About Trinitys

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  • Birthday 11/20/1976

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  • Location
    Splendora TX

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  • Location
    Splendora, TX
  • Occupation
    Facilities Manager at UHD

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  1. Trinitys

    Checking in

    It’s a stick on factory graphic. It’s reproduced now too which is cool. It wasn’t really an option, it was just part of the Grande package,
  2. Trinitys

    Checking in

    I figured I’d check in on the site and haven’t posted in awhile. I’ve been busy though. The mustang is still running good, replaced shocks and tires a few months ago. Still drive it regularly. I just finished my 68 f100 build. 351w, fitech, 4r70w crownvic front end, explorer 8.8 rear. It turned out better than I could have imagined. I post a lot on my Instagram @ericmreimer
  3. I think any pump would work. Why not just replace your stock pump with another stock pump? you could go with a GM type 2 either with tank on the pump or one that’s remote mounted but then your messing with brackets, adapting hoses etc. here’s a picture of a remote mounted tank GM type 2 on my buddy f100
  4. Randell used a GM type 2 or also known as a TC pump. Pretty common out there.
  5. Ok I’m building a 69 351w and have an issue. The brackets and pulleys I’m wanting are March ultra knock offs from eBay. It requires a reverse rotation water pump which is fine. First question is about the timing pointer and damper/Hormuz balancer.since factory the pointer is on the drivers side, this will have to have the pointer on the passenger side. Worried it won’t have timing marks where I need. Second question is about the timing chain cover. I imagine I need the reserve rotation cover? Can you guys confirm that. Pic attaced Ed is one I found on line.
  6. Thanks and I hear ya. This one was in a field for a bunch of years. Down here the gulf coast humidity kills everything. Luckily this one had minimal rust but mice did a job on it.
  7. I run a mass air system on my mustang and I like it for the most part. Going fitech because 2 reasons. 1-I got it on craigslist for 500 and 2- because I like an easy, reliable start.
  8. Just wanted to check in. I poke my head in on occasion but stay busy on the truck groups. Anyway I still have the 69 Grande. She lives in the garage. The current project is a 68 f100. Crown Vic front suspension, explorer rear, efi 351w, 4r70w. Building the motor right now. Anyway, here’s some pics. Check out my Instagram @ericmreimer
  9. I wish I could help. All I've ever done is a bit of mig welding on floor pans and panels. The roller perches I made could have been better but with a wire feed, no gas, it was not too bad. What part of Houston area?
  10. I think it attaches from the inside if i remember right.
  11. Here's a bit more interesting information on comparing copper to aluminum and tube design.... the note below this picture read "Each 1/2" tube loses 20% of its contact area due to the end radius.The lost fin contact area on each 1" tube is only 8% of its area Plus the flow rate in Aluminum is much greater." Griffin has an extreme cool feature that takes the tube with (A) up to 1.25".but that will set you back up-ward on $800 and $1500 if you have electric fans added on with their exact fit series. http://www.griffinrad.com/exact_fit.php?tid=2 Most are 1 inch on aluminum....however the OP has a Chinese made radiator with 1 1/8" tubes. The OP got a damn good deal.....now the e-bay sell just needs to post a early small block version and i'm buying it on the spot. if they dont, i'm eventually going to get a US Radiator brand for around $450 or so.
  12. http://www.coolcraft.com/radiator-core-styles Here is a great radiator article. I never had to really put much thought into cooling issues but now that I'm looking at AC(down the road) I'm wanting to make sure I'm ready. According to the site, and a few others I've read this morning, it seems copper is a much better conductor than aluminum but when you solder it all together, it looses its heat transfer abilities due to the lead. Copper has other cons such as weight and dis-similar metals and electrolysis. some advantages of copper over aluminum are that a copper radiator is rebuild-able where an aluminum is not. Given the benefits of a aluminum over copper, plus the fact that it can be had in OE tank design make it a winner for me over copper. Where I said the added capacity above, I was referring to a 24" aluminum as compared to my current 20" copper.
  13. Older flowmaster 3 chambers. They also dump down before the rear end. Drone at cruising speed if hypnotic lol....good " muscle car sound". I should take a video some time.
  14. Great Picture and thanks for the follow up! Stock appearance and function with added capacity....perfect!
  15. I also want to address the original poster. Welcome to the forum. If you've never driven or owned an old car, it a romantic notion that you'll be able to get an old car almost 50...to drive (and feel)like a new car. I don't know if you ever done this or not but I find a lot of people who have never driven a classic on a regular basis think they can make it feel like a new car. It's just not going to happen. The whole feel of an old car I'd much different. Steering, feedback, sound....ergonomics of where everything is even contributes to the feel. Now you can build it to to handle really well but that won't make it feel like driving a new car. Driving "feel" and handling should be considered different things. You can make it handle extremely well but the driving experience might suck. Or you can make it drive well but the handling sucks. If it's a track car...handling is what you may want and in this case it'll drive well for you on the track. Hand that same car to someone who wants a car that drives well on the street and I think they'll be disappointed. Drag cars are different, street cars are different, restomod/protour...different, and a track car are different all with different proposes and different "feel" built to meet a specific or or mix of certain functions. This is my goal.....What I want is a car that I can drive around town, handles well compared to street cars, has good drive-ability and if fun to drive...on the street. So my car would not drive real well on the track or at the drag strip compared to cars built for those specific duties. Those cars would not meet my needs either though...I don't want a rail suspension on a car I drive over train tracks or down the highway in traffic. I also don't need a 10 second car or the street-ability issues that accompany it. Long story short....read and research. Figure out your goals and you'll need to build to that goal. We'll help you reach that specific goal with experience and advice. You'll sacrifice some things to accomplish others and have to do what you can with your budget. And if not anything else, remember the "feel" or the "way it drives" does not equal how it handles....common misconception.
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