Shep69

I live in the wrong country

I have a stockish style radiator (meaning tanks are at the top and bottom) and run the coolant level to just above the coolant tubes.  So it has the entire top tank for expansion.  So far, under my operating conditions, I have never had any fluid in my overflow.  So consider adjusting your coolant level?  Of course, if you are using a crossflow radiator with the tanks on the side, you really wouldn't have this benefit and a reservoir would be needed.

Been at this week end car show down our way.
Had the 70 R/T Dodge Charger there along with the Mach 1 which my wife drove in the morning rain with a Detroit Locker in the back.
Parked next to my buddies 67 Shelby GT 350 and my other friends 69 Mercury Cyclone CJ 428 GT. We have a lot of great cars down here.

My Hedman headers have both.  Ball and socket is way more flexible in terms of aligning your exhaust.

What 17 yr old wouldn’t love driving a cool red 69 Mach 1 around. 
Unfortunately my 18 and 20 yr old sons will never know lol. 

What 17 yr old wouldn’t love driving a cool red 69 Mach 1 around. 
Unfortunately my 18 and 20 yr old sons will never know lol. 

What 17 yr old wouldn’t love driving a cool red 69 Mach 1 around. 
Unfortunately my 18 and 20 yr old sons will never know lol. 

I've had both and in my opinion the ball and socket works a lot better than the standard flange.  
david

The exhaust flows left to right. 
Hmm... no clue why my image is so darn big. 

Check with CPP, Classic Performance Parts, or Midfifty.  Midfifty is a big F100 parts supplier.  They might sell something that will meet your needs.
http://midfifty.com/store.php?CAT_ID=994

The ball & socket joint is steel on steel, no gasket. 

Trans back in and tested it ,no leaks and flex plate is great.
My 17 yo daughter is driving the car back into the house, she loves the car.
mia mustang 3.MOV mia mustang.MOV

This is the one I bought.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ems-ms107-88p/overview/
Here it is located on the right with the blue tape on it...
 

I used a small billet tank on my '70.  I have a slightly bigger Summit Racing plastic tank on my '68.   I agree that it is probably not needed.  I have never drained a drop out of the one on my '68.   But, wanted to have one on my '70 anyway.
 

If you're ever going to the track or strip, they're pretty much mandated.

An overflow tank is a band aid to try and compensate for an insufficient cooling system. I have never needed one on any vintage car and i live where it gets over 100 degrees in the summer.

Well, it's back together and i have fired it up.
Got another flex plate same brand and part no but it was different, after truing up the converter mounts and fitting it, it works.
This aftermarket flex plate is a pos compared to the original'
Going for a run later in the week, fingers crossed.

So first I used the washer fluid tank as overflow for the radiator.  After that got old, I got a real one and mounted it on core support on the driver side of the radiator.

Mine is the 2nd June next year. My wife gets annoyed that I remember the mustang's birthday and not hers. They get like that.

Yes i made up some stops made from pvc pipe and put a slice down the side.  Placed them over the steel vertical guides so the windows stopped just before the weatherstripping. this also helps to eliminate the glue on brackets being forced off the glass. Works a treat. 

Pic of the parade laps. I've driven this track in true high-speed events a few times but never been on it with the Mustang. It was still fun for me but my friend, who was in the car with me, had never put a foot on any kind of track was over the moon. Watching him was more fun than the drive itself . Funny thing was I offered to let him drive and he declined saying he'd never been in a race before! LOL! 
 

Yes i made up some stops made from pvc pipe and put a slice down the side.  Placed them over the steel vertical guides so the windows stopped just before the weatherstripping. this also helps to eliminate the glue on brackets being forced off the glass. Works a treat. 

Shep is referring to a common upgrade that many people do - put short pieces of pipe around the bottom of the tubular tracks.When the window goes down, the metal brackets hit the pipes and travel stops. The pipe meets the brackets, not the glass, which doesn't stress the glue joint.
The factory design (seen in the picture above, directly above and below the PLAY icon) has a metal piece glued to the bottom of the glass which hits the rubber bumper bolted to the curved piece welded to the door. The flaw of this design is that torque on the window crank stresses the glue joint, working to separate it.

Busy summer has impacted my wrench time, but slowly finishing up my final wiring tie-ins and plumbing in the engine compartment.   Installed my radiator overflow, front radiator support and radiator, electric fans, oil temperature sensor, started on my oil cooler lines.    Some temporary wire ties in the pictures, just need to do the final alignment before I lock the locations in.   
 

My brakes started acting up...I wonder what the issue may be?