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mwye0627

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mwye0627 last won the day on August 5 2018

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About mwye0627

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    Mustang Owner
  • Birthday 06/27/1957

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  1. Same motors that I have used, and a very similar bracket as well... Works great with no problems so far!!! :)
  2. Perhaps your statement should read: 99.9% of STOCK engines use a 6.5 power valve!!! He did state that his cam is nearly 0.600" lift, with "a Good Bit Of duration"... Any camshaft, depending on Duration, that allows the Vacuum signal to fall significantly at idle or under moderate acceleration would require a Lower Value, eg. 3.5" Hg power valve. We have had instances with fairly mild BBC race engines that when pulled into gear with an automatic based transmissions that the vacuum would fall low enough that we would use Power Valve Block-off plugs. Typically, we would then jet the carburetor up 4 jet sizes. It's really much more common than most people would believe!!!
  3. I have done the same thing... Working at a body shop, we get all kinds of damaged mirrors to replace, and I salvage the motors from them. I epoxy (JB Weld) a threaded boss on one side of the inner mirror housing, there is an existing boss on the other side. Then I have designed a 0.040 sheet metal bracket that I cut out and bend to the correct depth to mount the motor to. I created a 0.090" thick piece of Polycarbonate that I attach to the the outer surface of the motor assembly where I can adhere the Mirror Glass to the assembly. I have only used a Single LED 'Arrow' for the turn indicator so far. I also use a 2015 Ford Escape switch panel to control both mirrors as well as all power windows.
  4. Oh HELL No!!! I would NEVER be able to get away with charging $12,000 for such a limited job (only the basic exterior), and then call it complete with bare and burnt through edges... Come on guys, Yes a great paint job IS a specialized and expensive procedure, but THIS is NOT a Great Paint Job!!! This is a $7,000 paint Job TOPS!!!... It's not like that Blue is nearly as expensive as a 3 Stage Red (more than twice as much material costs). And the quality is even below what I would consider Mediocre!!! Sorry Buddy, My Opinion is that you got Ripped off for $12,000!!! :(
  5. Back in the old days (1985) we had an old 1973 Vega Super Gas car with a 447 Cu. In. Big Block Chevy engine (0.100" overbore 427) that made roughly the same horsepower, but a little more torque. Made peak power at 7250 RPM. That car went as quick as 9.41 @ 143 in the quarter mile. Your Falcon should be a BEAST!!!
  6. I'm looking for a 69 - 70 driver quality front bumper preferably in the S.E. Michigan area. I'm going to be cutting, narrowing, and painting body color so I really don't want to spend money on a new one. I do have a driver quality 68 front bumper if anyone is looking for one...
  7. Where I used to work, we would make "Lam Dies" for things like this.... Basically design the part, then subtract the part in cad from a rectangular block. In cad, create a parting line to seperate the top and bottom of the block, and then cut that block into 0.250" slices. Then we would laser cut the pieces and combine then into a Laminated Die. Weld the lam die together and fixture it into a hydraulic press. A 100 ton press should work well for this part. Heat the mild steel blank to red hot and then place it into the lam die and quickly form your part. Quickly quench the part to provide some surface hardness ( or later have the parts Carburized for hardening). We used to use induction heating coils to heat mild steel rod to red hot in a matter of 2 or 3 seconds. This way parts could be produced easily with very little tooling costs and very little labor costs....
  8. From what I have read, it appears that 2001 and 2002 model transmissions would be best. Up until 2002, they still had a speedometer gear output to drive traditional mechanical speedometers. Those newer models also have improved valve bodies, improved "Mechanical Diodes" compared to older sprags (one-way clutches) in 1998 and newer transmissions, And the newer models have improved oiling to the rear bearings / bushings as opposed to the older models which required oiling mods for higher horsepower applications. I bought a 2002 model 4R70W for my build...
  9. Exactly... The pressure that is applied while welding only affects that exact point. I have seen spot welds where the metal on both sides of the weld was puckered out because of excessive pressure. The spot welders that I have seen in collision shops don't apply enough pressure to assure a good spot weld, leaving a very weakly joined panel or seam... With MIG there is never a question as to the validity of the weld.
  10. I don't have an official part number, but I have several of those wire clamps. Look for 1/4" black nylon cable clamps. Home Depot, Lowes, etc. have them in stock. Harbor Freight even has an assortment of those clamps available in several sizes.
  11. I have been trying to think of a good solution to install a single DIN radio. Your solution looks like exactly what I need!!! I have seen one supposed aftermarket single DIN bezel that looked like nothing more than Vacuum Formed ABS.. I didn't like it at all, and especially not for the money they wanted... You have come up with the best solution I have seen yet!!!
  12. I have seen where people have used the long run of copper pipe zig-zagged up and down vertically with a short ~10" length of pipe with a ball valve at the bottom of each "Loop" to drain the moisture that accumulates as the air cools down. The one person I talked with claimed that it worked pretty well... This website offers a commercially available solution using aluminum pipe and compression fittings and claims to be good up to 232 PSI... and it's only $276.49 https://www.compressorpros.com/qlk32-air-cooling-piping-system-1-2/
  13. When I worked for Watson Engineering, we also did the build on the Ford FR500R and FR500S factory race cars. The company that Ford chose to do the design on these cars, Multimatic Motorsports in Canada, who also builds the new Ford GT, specified that ALL seams that are spot welded MUST be reinforced by MIG process. We would use a cut-off wheel to slice through the outer panel into the inner panel in between each and every spot weld. Every spot weld, even the windshield opening, rear window opening, door jambs, rocker panels, inner roof seams, rear wheel well openings, Everything had to have 1 Inch long MIG welds in between the spot welds. The FIA certified engineers at MultiMatic explained that even with the full roll cage for rigidity, with ONLY Spot Welds on the body, these road race cars would ONLY last about 2 years. With the additional MIG welds they would last 7+ years before the car would be "too loose" to continue to be competitive. Also, working in the collision repair industry, I-CAR standards state that MIG process is perfectly suitable for steel frame and body welding. This rant is to further support Ridge's assertion that MIG is Much Better than SPOT Welds!!!
  14. Is that a reworked steel factory rear bumper, or is it a composite that you manufacture?
  15. I have successfully used USC's All-Metal filler a few times. Since it uses their special "Clear" hardener I believe it is epoxy based with aluminum particles embedded within it. I do know that when it has properly cured, it is Very Hard. I have even drilled and tapped it to accept small bolts and machine screws. I have a few projects that I will be using it on next spring, including a rear extension panel. Merry Christmas to ALL!!!
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