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mwye0627

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mwye0627 last won the day on August 5 2018

mwye0627 had the most liked content!

About mwye0627

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    Mustang Owner
  • Birthday 06/27/1957

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  1. mwye0627

    69-70 Hood catch

    Where I used to work, we would make "Lam Dies" for things like this.... Basically design the part, then subtract the part in cad from a rectangular block. In cad, create a parting line to seperate the top and bottom of the block, and then cut that block into 0.250" slices. Then we would laser cut the pieces and combine then into a Laminated Die. Weld the lam die together and fixture it into a hydraulic press. A 100 ton press should work well for this part. Heat the mild steel blank to red hot and then place it into the lam die and quickly form your part. Quickly quench the part to provide some surface hardness ( or later have the parts Carburized for hardening). We used to use induction heating coils to heat mild steel rod to red hot in a matter of 2 or 3 seconds. This way parts could be produced easily with very little tooling costs and very little labor costs....
  2. mwye0627

    Gear Vendors Overdrive

    From what I have read, it appears that 2001 and 2002 model transmissions would be best. Up until 2002, they still had a speedometer gear output to drive traditional mechanical speedometers. Those newer models also have improved valve bodies, improved "Mechanical Diodes" compared to older sprags (one-way clutches) in 1998 and newer transmissions, And the newer models have improved oiling to the rear bearings / bushings as opposed to the older models which required oiling mods for higher horsepower applications. I bought a 2002 model 4R70W for my build...
  3. mwye0627

    Ever want to punch one of these guys ?

    Exactly... The pressure that is applied while welding only affects that exact point. I have seen spot welds where the metal on both sides of the weld was puckered out because of excessive pressure. The spot welders that I have seen in collision shops don't apply enough pressure to assure a good spot weld, leaving a very weakly joined panel or seam... With MIG there is never a question as to the validity of the weld.
  4. mwye0627

    Console Wire Clips

    I don't have an official part number, but I have several of those wire clamps. Look for 1/4" black nylon cable clamps. Home Depot, Lowes, etc. have them in stock. Harbor Freight even has an assortment of those clamps available in several sizes.
  5. mwye0627

    Mounting of modern single DIN radio

    I have been trying to think of a good solution to install a single DIN radio. Your solution looks like exactly what I need!!! I have seen one supposed aftermarket single DIN bezel that looked like nothing more than Vacuum Formed ABS.. I didn't like it at all, and especially not for the money they wanted... You have come up with the best solution I have seen yet!!!
  6. mwye0627

    Home Shop Air System upgrades - help

    I have seen where people have used the long run of copper pipe zig-zagged up and down vertically with a short ~10" length of pipe with a ball valve at the bottom of each "Loop" to drain the moisture that accumulates as the air cools down. The one person I talked with claimed that it worked pretty well... This website offers a commercially available solution using aluminum pipe and compression fittings and claims to be good up to 232 PSI... and it's only $276.49 https://www.compressorpros.com/qlk32-air-cooling-piping-system-1-2/
  7. mwye0627

    Ever want to punch one of these guys ?

    When I worked for Watson Engineering, we also did the build on the Ford FR500R and FR500S factory race cars. The company that Ford chose to do the design on these cars, Multimatic Motorsports in Canada, who also builds the new Ford GT, specified that ALL seams that are spot welded MUST be reinforced by MIG process. We would use a cut-off wheel to slice through the outer panel into the inner panel in between each and every spot weld. Every spot weld, even the windshield opening, rear window opening, door jambs, rocker panels, inner roof seams, rear wheel well openings, Everything had to have 1 Inch long MIG welds in between the spot welds. The FIA certified engineers at MultiMatic explained that even with the full roll cage for rigidity, with ONLY Spot Welds on the body, these road race cars would ONLY last about 2 years. With the additional MIG welds they would last 7+ years before the car would be "too loose" to continue to be competitive. Also, working in the collision repair industry, I-CAR standards state that MIG process is perfectly suitable for steel frame and body welding. This rant is to further support Ridge's assertion that MIG is Much Better than SPOT Welds!!!
  8. mwye0627

    Craig from New Zealand

    Is that a reworked steel factory rear bumper, or is it a composite that you manufacture?
  9. mwye0627

    What filler for quarter panel extensions?

    I have successfully used USC's All-Metal filler a few times. Since it uses their special "Clear" hardener I believe it is epoxy based with aluminum particles embedded within it. I do know that when it has properly cured, it is Very Hard. I have even drilled and tapped it to accept small bolts and machine screws. I have a few projects that I will be using it on next spring, including a rear extension panel. Merry Christmas to ALL!!!
  10. mwye0627

    Gear Vendors Overdrive

    You can also use a 4R70w out of a 3.8L V-6 mustang. It still fits the Windsor block and has the 2 hole starter mount. The only real difference is that it has 1 less intermediate clutch disc, but most people feel that is not an issue unless you are making over 600 HP, but the extra clutch disc can be easily added. Also, the V-6 torque converter is just loose enough that it can stall up to 2600 rpm under the torque of a decent 302 engine. The trans I got is out of a 2002 Mustang, so it has the desirable Mechanical Diode instead of the weaker sprag... Good deal all around!!!
  11. mwye0627

    Gear Vendors Overdrive

    Like some of the other guys, I prefer the 4R70W swap. Much better gear ratios... 1st=2.84:1 2nd=1.55:1 3rd= 1.0:1 4th=0.67:1 The super low 1st gear is great for accelerating out of the hole, and the 0.67 OD is much better than the Gear Vendors 0.80 OD. I bought a 60,000 mile 4R70w + convertor for $350 and a brand new Baumann U.S.Shift Quick 1 controller for $430. All together I will have around $1000 into my conversion, and with my 3.73 rear gear it should be a LOT of fun and still be able to easily cruse at freeway speeds... :)
  12. They are typically used on all exhaust joints on the prototype and EPA cars that we work on. They are really great for connecting cats, because the self-aligning interlocking flanges and clamps are 304 Stainless and make pretty much foolproof, leak-free joints on these vehicles which commonly have the cats, mufflers, resonators and tailpipes swapped out for testing several alternative components. I have found out that these flanges and clamps can be bought for a fairly reasonable price... The attached photo is for an 2 1/2" ID connection and contains 1 - 304 Stainless V-Band clamp, 1 - Male 304 flange, 1 - Female 304 flange.... Jegs Part Number: 555-30856 and sells for $16.99 With the flanges properly welded and the clamp oriented to hide the t-bolt, they really can be aesthetically acceptable on most vehicles. They are also used extensively used on plumbing both the hot and cool sides on turbo installations on street cars, race cars, and off road vehicles. They really make turbo system maintenance and repair quick and much easier and they can handle much more pressure that other clamping solutions, and do so while remaining leak free... :) Part Number: 555-30856
  13. The clamps that you portrayed look very much like the V-Band "Marmon" flange clamps that we used almost exclusively on exhaust systems when I worked in automotive engineering. The Marmon flanges are virtually leak free and easily serviceable in an prototype application. Other than the expense, I really don't understand why they are not in wider use on specialty exhaust systems. The shop I currently work at does a lot of contract work for the U.S. EPA facility in Ann Arbor, Michigan. These vehicles, which are actual consumers personal vehicles that are on loan to the EPA for legacy and on-going emission testing, have been fitted with such Marmon / V-Band systems for easy exchangeability and serviceability while under test, so I still see these systems on a weekly basis... Good Stuff!!!
  14. I too like the Oetiker type clamps and have used them for many uses on vehicles and in industrial applications as well. I have even seen modified versions of them in use on Air Conditioning hose connections intended for "in the field" installation on applications such as farm implements,, construction equipment, Semi Tractors, etc... I have even successfully used them on Show vehicles where I could install the hoses to the metal tubing prior to installation in the vehicle. That way I could orient the "pinch" portion of the clamp to a position where it would not be noticable, leaving only a smoothe band exposed. Great clamps for a large variety of applications!!! :)
  15. I installed one of these a couple of years ago on a friends '32 Ford Roadster... It is quite a bit different than a regular contactor in that it is a Latching Contactor. You use a momentary switch to activate it. The large contacts come together and a mechanical latch holds them together and the current drops off when the momentary switch is released. When the momentary switch is activated again, the latch releases the contacts. The biggest problem that I found was it would do no good as an anti-theft device if the driver forgot to turn it off. I put a small LED in the dash that would illuminate when the device is ON, that way he would be reminded to turn it off... Here is a partial description and instructions from the manufacturer.... Installing the Hotronics MBD-150, Quik Flip Master Battery Disconnect. The Hotronics MBD-150 is a latching type relay solenoid and only requires current to turn ON or OFF. Once the battery disconnects, latch is moved one way or the other, the MBD-150 needs NO power to keep the latch in place, once latched, it never draws power, even engaged. (It can never run the battery down.) The MBD-150 is rated at over 100 continuous amps and easily handles a 600- amp surge for 30 seconds during cranking modes. A bad starter won’t turn over at about 400 amps or so. Making the MBD-150 well suited for the high in-rush current demands of high torque starters and high compression engines. With lot’s of margin to spare! MBD-150 does NOT make bad starters better! Just is built tougher than needed. The MBD-150 does not replace the starter solenoid or do the starting. So if you have a Ford or use a Ford type solenoid for starting now, save it, you’ll still need it to do the starting. The MBD-150 would install between it and the battery for that application.
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