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LiLMike last won the day on August 2

LiLMike had the most liked content!

About LiLMike

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  • Birthday 07/02/1952


  • Location
    Beech Grove, IN

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  1. LiLMike

    Looking for Gauges with Tach

    Check out this thread!
  2. LiLMike

    Gauge cluster

    Yes i have the turn signal indicators. I really don't have a problem with the scaling of the gauges. I have the LED back lighting which is great. I just have trouble reading the gauges in the daylight. The glass reflects and you can not see where the needles are pointing. I wish I would have had white, neon or illuminated needles installed.
  3. LiLMike

    Gauge cluster

    I went with Nu Vintage Gauges. They look great but you need to ask for every little thing. I started out with the 68 gauges that look period correct. I asked for the led lights, turn signal indicators and bright light indicator along with the spun center silver discs. I wish i would have asked for some florescence needles because the stock ones are hard to see. Also ask for the correct fuel sending unit resistance Fuel gauge. They sent me the wrong one and I had to send the gauge back. I don't remember what the stock sending unit resistance so you will have to figure that out before you orded them.
  4. LiLMike

    Burning up Coils

    I have a Mallory distributor that was upgraded to their electronic ignition. I have an AAW wiring harness so no restive wire. The problem was that the red wire from the distributor went to the fuse block for a constant 12vdc instead of going to the coil. It never dropped down to 10.8 vdc or 9.8 vdc and that is why I kept burning up coils and electronic modules in the distributor. Connected the red wire from the distributor straight to the coil and everything works great. It evens starts faster.
  5. LiLMike

    Burning up Coils

    Thanks Mach1 Driver. I found the problem. The coil/Distributor circuit was wired wrong. Corrected that and it starts great with 12vdc at the coil and drops down to 9.8 vdc when running.
  6. LiLMike

    Burning up Coils

    The alternator is good and has an internal regulator. The coil is mounted on the firewall. The car is driven to car shows and cruise-ins when it is running. The last time the coil burnt up was when it was ideling for a long time. Removed the coil and the top was separating from the body of the coil. Put in one of those Master Blaster coils and bleeder resistor in. Car ran and was driven for about 3 weeks and then just died at a light the other day. It took out the electronic module in the distributor. Going to replace the module and check the wiring.
  7. LiLMike

    Burning up Coils

    I have an AAW wired car and it was running fine until I replaced the motor. I do have only 10.9 volts at the coil going to the distributor. That is what is puzzling. Everything seems to check out as it should but either the coil or electronic module craps out after a couple of weeks or so. It just runs fine for awhile and then just dies. Wondering if there is some sort of power surge or something.
  8. LiLMike

    Burning up Coils

    Got a problem that is driving me crazy. I have a 100 amp alternator and an electronic module instead of points. Started out with a Mallory E-Coil with an internal bleeder resistor. Ran car for awhile and it burnt up along with the electronic module in the distributor.Tried another one with the same results. Switched to an oil filled coil with a relay in place of a bleeder resistor. That coil burnt up. Replaced with another regular coil and added a bleeder resistor. Ran fine for about 3 weeks and car just died sitting at a light. I now have a bad electronic module in the distributor. The only thing I can come up with is moving the coil/distributor circuit to an isolated circuit with it's own fuse. Any suggestions?
  9. LiLMike

    Changing from manifold to headers

    Depends on what you want. Just call them and they will help you.
  10. LiLMike

    Changing from manifold to headers

    I went with FPA headers. Expensive but no fitment issues what so ever. I also have power steering, power brakes and A/C
  11. LiLMike

    Door Glass Came Unglued Today

    Now would be the time to upgrade to the 70 Bolt-In-Glass. CJ Pony have the kits and instructions on video. I did this to both sides of my 69 and love it. Replaced everything with new parts and now I can shut my doors with the windows up and there are no rattles. Don't forget to replace the cat whisker felt also.
  12. LiLMike

    Time to choose a battery

    I went with a Motorcraft battery. Got the heavy duty one for a 69 Mustang. Great warranty and cheaper than most. Been sitting all winter and it fires right up. Got it from a Ford dealer and got 10% off with a Military discount.
  13. I have a 4R70W and used FPA headers. I bought a Flowmaster header back 2 1/2" exhaust system. As you an see, I have electric cutouts with subframe connectors. The only fitment issues I had was that I had to narrow the system to get the cutout motors tuked into the subframe connectors. i did this by narrowing the system at the H pipe. Worked out well and I am very happy with it.
  14. LiLMike

    Mounting coil to driver side cylinder head

    I mounted mine on the firewall just behind the drivers side head on a flat spot there. Had to buy a longer coil wire from Summit racing. It is cooler back there than up front.
  15. LiLMike

    AAW Harness Under Dash Pictures

    As you can see, I went with a clean look. Only wires going through the firewall is for the coil and distributor. I mounted the fuse box in the stock location but drilled a hole to the left of it so I could rout all the other wires through conduit in the fender well. I used the rubber lined clamps to mount the conduit to the fender bolts in just 2 places on each side. I used the split wire loom (F6 it is called) on any and all wires along with putting it on my A/C lines and heater hose. I got the clamps and wire loom from Amazon. It is cheaper there than anywhere else. You just have to order different sizes of it all. I guessed at the lengths and had to reorder when I ran out.