LiLMike

Yes I did Danno. I will let the new owner know when I sell it. Thanks

Vic, The cutouts came from Summit Racing and the emblems came from https://www.billetbadges.com/

Now for sale is this 1969 Ford Mustang Mach 1. Powered by a full roller 393 Stroker professionally built by Dick Fox of Champion Racing Engines of McCordsville, Indiana. This is a 500HP monster paired with a 4R70W automatic overdrive transmission professionally built with an 1800 stall converter by PATC Performance Automotive Transmissions of Bossier City, LA. Power is driven to the pavement through a new driveshaft and a Ford 9" rear end with a 3:55 Detroit Truetrac 31 spline rear end. The candy apple red paint is excellent but not show quality. It does pop and shine and looks good and has won numerous awards at local car shows and is sure to catch some attention wherever you go. With maintenance being performed regularly through the years and all new parts were replaced when restored to ensure this car can be driven across country with no issues and will continue to do so for many more years. Those items include all new steering components, new Bilstein shocks, roller spring perches, Tinman subframe connectors, stainless steel braided lines, aluminum radiator with dual Spal electric fans, Wilwood disc brakes on front and rear, Classic Auto Air air-conditioning, Nu-Vintage gauges and all new AAW wiring with LED lights. It has FPA ceramic coated long tube headers with electric cutouts. All new brake lines and hoses. The interior is immaculate with 1970 bolt in glass windows. The doors are solid with no rattles. In the trunk is a firewall with a door for storage and a custom LED trunk light. The headlights and all bulbs have been converted to LED. $50,000 OBO

I was transferred to Pt. Mugu, Ca. a few months after Pamela. I retired from the Navy in Sept. of 93.

Sounds like you were a fellow sailor and that we went through Supertyphoon Pamela together. I was stationed at NAS Agana Guam back then.

This is the one I bought. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ems-ms107-88p/overview/ Here it is located on the right with the blue tape on it...

I got mine from Summit. Fits great.

Check out this thread!

Yes i have the turn signal indicators. I really don't have a problem with the scaling of the gauges. I have the LED back lighting which is great. I just have trouble reading the gauges in the daylight. The glass reflects and you can not see where the needles are pointing. I wish I would have had white, neon or illuminated needles installed.

I went with Nu Vintage Gauges. They look great but you need to ask for every little thing. I started out with the 68 gauges that look period correct. I asked for the led lights, turn signal indicators and bright light indicator along with the spun center silver discs. I wish i would have asked for some florescence needles because the stock ones are hard to see. Also ask for the correct fuel sending unit resistance Fuel gauge. They sent me the wrong one and I had to send the gauge back. I don't remember what the stock sending unit resistance so you will have to figure that out before you orded them.

I have a Mallory distributor that was upgraded to their electronic ignition. I have an AAW wiring harness so no restive wire. The problem was that the red wire from the distributor went to the fuse block for a constant 12vdc instead of going to the coil. It never dropped down to 10.8 vdc or 9.8 vdc and that is why I kept burning up coils and electronic modules in the distributor. Connected the red wire from the distributor straight to the coil and everything works great. It evens starts faster.

Thanks Mach1 Driver. I found the problem. The coil/Distributor circuit was wired wrong. Corrected that and it starts great with 12vdc at the coil and drops down to 9.8 vdc when running.

The alternator is good and has an internal regulator. The coil is mounted on the firewall. The car is driven to car shows and cruise-ins when it is running. The last time the coil burnt up was when it was ideling for a long time. Removed the coil and the top was separating from the body of the coil. Put in one of those Master Blaster coils and bleeder resistor in. Car ran and was driven for about 3 weeks and then just died at a light the other day. It took out the electronic module in the distributor. Going to replace the module and check the wiring.

I have an AAW wired car and it was running fine until I replaced the motor. I do have only 10.9 volts at the coil going to the distributor. That is what is puzzling. Everything seems to check out as it should but either the coil or electronic module craps out after a couple of weeks or so. It just runs fine for awhile and then just dies. Wondering if there is some sort of power surge or something.

Got a problem that is driving me crazy. I have a 100 amp alternator and an electronic module instead of points. Started out with a Mallory E-Coil with an internal bleeder resistor. Ran car for awhile and it burnt up along with the electronic module in the distributor.Tried another one with the same results. Switched to an oil filled coil with a relay in place of a bleeder resistor. That coil burnt up. Replaced with another regular coil and added a bleeder resistor. Ran fine for about 3 weeks and car just died sitting at a light. I now have a bad electronic module in the distributor. The only thing I can come up with is moving the coil/distributor circuit to an isolated circuit with it's own fuse. Any suggestions?