TheRktmn

There is a detailed post about this 'restomod' on the Classic Cougar Network Forums. 1970 Ignition Switches for under $20 BRAND NEW! https://classiccougarcommunity.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=8943&p=91633&hilit=1970+ignition+switch#p90134

The reason Ford uses the stator is because the choke should only be opening when the engine is running, not when the key is on. All the suggestions to wire to this or that negates that function. Let's say you're trying to start the car on a cold morning. You crank and crank but it doesn't want to start, or won't stay running. As long as you are cranking the choke is opening, engine running or not. Or, you start the car, run inside to let it warm up and it stalls. Key on = choke opening = cold motor = hard /no start = po'd owner. The choke should only open when the car has run long enough to build up enough heat to run/idle without the choke. This is accomplished by only supplying power to the choke when the car is running. The stator terminal is dead when the engine is not turning the alternator.

Is the coil mounted on it's side? I did that and the oil dripped out causing it to overheat if there wasn't enough air moving around it. Look for oil around or on the coil. There is an o-ring and screw inside the center post/tower and this had loosened on mine.

The FE family consists of basically the 360, 390, 427 and 428. There are others and the 360 is predominately a truck motor, so most people stick to the 390-427-428 configurations. I am no expert on FE engines, but I believe that most all parts are interchangeable. They are easily recognized because the intake manifold goes under the top 1/4 or so of the valve cover. If you have the block stripped down you will see that the crank bearings sit within the block casting rather than hanging down like a normal V8. The Lima family consists of the 429 and 460. These are basically overgrown Clevelands. The 429-460 parts are interchangeable as are the starters and distributors from the Clevelands - 351C, 351M and 400M. I think that the Limas are the better looking of the two engine families. Transmission bolt patterns are different between FE, Lima and Cleveland families, although the Cleveland family will interchange with the Windsor family - 260, 289, 302, 351W. Motor mounts are also family specific. Performance parts are available for the FE, although expensive and harder to find lately. The Lima engine is much more economical to build and get cheap grunt out of. Motor porn:

A lot of the clocks sent to me for repair have been lubed and then either sludged up, fried the coils or both.

I do not have any Mustang deluxe cores. All of the dash clocks in 69/70 were Borg, marked with a big B on the case. There are kits to convert these to quartz and occasionally an NOS movement surfaces. The rectangular console clocks were made by General Time, marked with a GT on the case. These movements cannot be converted to quartz easily. They were only used for about 4 years and parts are impossible to find.

Last I knew the two styles were Standard Black and Deluxe Blue. I have never seen a rally clock in standard black, nor have I seen a console clock in deluxe blue. The quartz clocks do not 'tic' when winding, nor does the second hand pause as it tics while running. The second hand in a quartz clock is a smooth, constant movement. I too prefer the good old fashioned OEM mechanical movements, and they are repairable, I do one or two a month.

You might find one that claims to be NOS, but most of those seem to be units that failed and replaced at the dealership. Your best bet is to find a used one and send it to someone like ISI for restoration.

Hard to find a decent one. There are a couple on eBay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/69-1969-70-1970-Ford-Mustang-Clock-Assembly-ORIGINAL-/361901495449?hash=item5443029499:g:uAMAAOSwtfhYnP6m&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-70-MUSTANG-MACH-1-SHELBY-GT350-500-PASSENGER-SIDE-CLOCK-C9ZF-15000-/391671915038?hash=item5b3177221e:g:em0AAOSw5cNYcnxR&vxp=mtr

Sounds like a worn wiper arm transmission. I had the same symptom on my 69 Cougar. https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/arm_and_pivot_assy_windshield_wiper-168115-1.html

Check that the coil - post is going to the distributor. I have seen quite a few that had the + post going to the distributor.

ISI has NOS for $22.00 http://clocks4cars.auctivacommerce.com/1969-1970-FORD-MUSTANG-MACH-1-CLOCK-KNOB-NEW-NOS-P3070280.aspx

The tach cluster has Temperature and Fuel gauges, no ammeter. There are warning lights in the tach for Amps and Oil.

I'm in for one EFI kit and a Fuel Command Center. I can PayPal you & provide my UPS account when you're ready to ship.

I'm 98% there.. Does the discount extend to their Fuel Command Center as well? http://fitechefi.com/default.asp.pg-GoEFISystemFuelCommandCenter If it does I am 99.9% there.

I voted Sportroof, deleted it. Voted Convertible, deleted it. Voted Sportroof. Seems to be working just fine.

I have an old RAC 'on the plug' type and a newer (10 years) Craftsman inductive with timing knob. Both work fine with my MSD5 and 6AL.

Scarey stuff, that. I hope you gave Suzy some extra treats. RPM: Re paying double - Without hesitation. Heck, I have an unused credit card with 0 balance just for emergencies.

Why is it they can fold and curl their way onto a 2x2 cushion but they need the ENTIRE couch to watch TV and a WHOLE king size bed at night?

Rocketdog aka Rocky is my head of security and Lilly is my HR director. Rocket is 3, Lilly is 7. In typical Golden fashion they both think they're 1 year old and only 10 lbs. That gray furball behind Lilly is Smokey aka 'that damn cat'. Smokey has no job or title - he spends his days snorting catnip, ambushing the dogs and chasing imaginary things.

Shooting in the dark here, but how is the vacuum advance hooked up? If it is connected through the timed port on the thermostat housing it may beconnected wrong i.e getting full advance when the motor is warm and ported when it's cold. I don't think they started using them until the early 70s, but there's no telling what a previous owner may have done or if it was a CA car and has the early emissions set up on it. Have you checked that the mechaincal advance weights or plate inside the distributor isn't sticking? The MSD will work fine if you're using the coil+ or Solenoid IGN wires as the on/off power source. The large red power wire needs be connected directly to the battery. Edit - why are these thumbnails in my post.....?

Intermittent wiper delay switch and control box from any 80's Ford truck or Bronco will plug right into a 69-73 Mustang. The higher end vehicles like the Lariat and XL versions usually had them.

Good to know, thank you.

Under the dash. It goes between the firewall connector and ignition switch after the (green/red) wire.

Don't annoy the buyers. I haven't sold anything in a while, but I do browse for parts and to get an idea of what parts are going for. Some of the things that turn me off from a seller are (in no particular order): * Not all Mustang parts are RARE or from a SHELBY. * Spell check your page. I am no Rhodes Scholar and I do plenty of typos, but poor spelling and improper usage looks very unprofessional (their, there,they're, etc). * DON'T DESCRIBE YOUR ITEMS IN UPPERCASE, BOLD, OR CRAZY COLORS. * Include lots of pictures, show everything from every angle. * If you're aware of any defect or wear, describe it. An honest description is better than a vague one. * If you can, include shipping. eBay takes a piece of it anyway so it's not like it's profit. When I was in NH I figured postage to 100 Main St in Julian, CA 92036 and added that to my starting price (Julian CA is a small town near San Diego). Exorbitant shipping will kill bids. I would include shipping in the lower 48 and list actual shipping to other locales TBD after the auction. * As mentioned earlier, answer any questions ASAP.