TheRktmn

There is a detailed post about this 'restomod' on the Classic Cougar Network Forums. 1970 Ignition Switches for under $20 BRAND NEW! https://classiccougarcommunity.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=8943&p=91633&hilit=1970+ignition+switch#p90134

The reason Ford uses the stator is because the choke should only be opening when the engine is running, not when the key is on. All the suggestions to wire to this or that negates that function. Let's say you're trying to start the car on a cold morning. You crank and crank but it doesn't want to start, or won't stay running. As long as you are cranking the choke is opening, engine running or not. Or, you start the car, run inside to let it warm up and it stalls. Key on = choke opening = cold motor = hard /no start = po'd owner. The choke should only open when the car has run long enough to build up enough heat to run/idle without the choke. This is accomplished by only supplying power to the choke when the car is running. The stator terminal is dead when the engine is not turning the alternator.

Is the coil mounted on it's side? I did that and the oil dripped out causing it to overheat if there wasn't enough air moving around it. Look for oil around or on the coil. There is an o-ring and screw inside the center post/tower and this had loosened on mine.

The FE family consists of basically the 360, 390, 427 and 428. There are others and the 360 is predominately a truck motor, so most people stick to the 390-427-428 configurations. I am no expert on FE engines, but I believe that most all parts are interchangeable. They are easily recognized because the intake manifold goes under the top 1/4 or so of the valve cover. If you have the block stripped down you will see that the crank bearings sit within the block casting rather than hanging down like a normal V8. The Lima family consists of the 429 and 460. These are basically overgrown Clevelands. The 429-460 parts are interchangeable as are the starters and distributors from the Clevelands - 351C, 351M and 400M. I think that the Limas are the better looking of the two engine families. Transmission bolt patterns are different between FE, Lima and Cleveland families, although the Cleveland family will interchange with the Windsor family - 260, 289, 302, 351W. Motor mounts are also family specific. Performance parts are available for the FE, although expensive and harder to find lately. The Lima engine is much more economical to build and get cheap grunt out of. Motor porn:

A lot of the clocks sent to me for repair have been lubed and then either sludged up, fried the coils or both.

I do not have any Mustang deluxe cores. All of the dash clocks in 69/70 were Borg, marked with a big B on the case. There are kits to convert these to quartz and occasionally an NOS movement surfaces. The rectangular console clocks were made by General Time, marked with a GT on the case. These movements cannot be converted to quartz easily. They were only used for about 4 years and parts are impossible to find.

Last I knew the two styles were Standard Black and Deluxe Blue. I have never seen a rally clock in standard black, nor have I seen a console clock in deluxe blue. The quartz clocks do not 'tic' when winding, nor does the second hand pause as it tics while running. The second hand in a quartz clock is a smooth, constant movement. I too prefer the good old fashioned OEM mechanical movements, and they are repairable, I do one or two a month.

You might find one that claims to be NOS, but most of those seem to be units that failed and replaced at the dealership. Your best bet is to find a used one and send it to someone like ISI for restoration.

Hard to find a decent one. There are a couple on eBay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/69-1969-70-1970-Ford-Mustang-Clock-Assembly-ORIGINAL-/361901495449?hash=item5443029499:g:uAMAAOSwtfhYnP6m&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-70-MUSTANG-MACH-1-SHELBY-GT350-500-PASSENGER-SIDE-CLOCK-C9ZF-15000-/391671915038?hash=item5b3177221e:g:em0AAOSw5cNYcnxR&vxp=mtr

Sounds like a worn wiper arm transmission. I had the same symptom on my 69 Cougar. https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/arm_and_pivot_assy_windshield_wiper-168115-1.html

Check that the coil - post is going to the distributor. I have seen quite a few that had the + post going to the distributor.

ISI has NOS for $22.00 http://clocks4cars.auctivacommerce.com/1969-1970-FORD-MUSTANG-MACH-1-CLOCK-KNOB-NEW-NOS-P3070280.aspx

The tach cluster has Temperature and Fuel gauges, no ammeter. There are warning lights in the tach for Amps and Oil.

I'm in for one EFI kit and a Fuel Command Center. I can PayPal you & provide my UPS account when you're ready to ship.

I'm 98% there.. Does the discount extend to their Fuel Command Center as well? http://fitechefi.com/default.asp.pg-GoEFISystemFuelCommandCenter If it does I am 99.9% there.