TexasEd

I used electrical tape to insulate mine because it is so hard to get the spacing right and the cardboard moves.

My build list has a Quick Fuel Brawler on the list.  650 is what I was looking at for the 351W.  Glad you like it.

@TexasEd
too bad you are not in SF, California, Im selling my old mustang 67-70 rear end with ford 9 28 spline, truetrac since I converted to a 3link and upgraded to Strange's ford 9 31 TT spline.
Good luck with your search! 

The recent discussion about axle housings got me curious and would like to ask for some confirmations or corrections.  As I recall I took these measurements with the car up on jack stands.  So some areas are hard to get at and probably not accurate down to the 1/4".  Thanks Brian

Removing post to help avoid any further confusion.

We haven't had lights like that since 1969
welcome to the hotel California ,such a lovely place  ,such a lovely place  haha !
Ah ,you have to be an oldy to get that !

Followed those videos, when I installed mine. I put relay form Pertronix Ignition with fuse and took 12V from the balast wire. I'm attaching a diagram I made, hope it will be helpful to somebody.

 
I know its off topic, I'm attaching some photos of the installation:
 

I'm thinking of getting one of these.  I saw a youtube video on it I think they did the install like you did but then generated a timing map before they started it.
Here is a guy who had a failed install and figured out he did not have 12V to the distributor.
 
 
 

Well, I personally don’t do repetition very well. So I’m going to build this engine with a little modern touch. Still collecting pieces .what I have so far.

Hi all!
Recently I installed new harmonic balacer and new distributor on my 69 Mach 1. The engine is 351W four barrel with FMX automatic, completely stock, 70k miles. I installed the distributor as stated in the manual (10degrees BTDC). It starts and idles, I checked with timing light and rotated the distributor to 10* BTDC. However I need some help, configuring the timing further. The distributor is from Progression Ignition.
 
I attached the manual of the distributor app:
 
 
 
 
This is the setup I came up with:
 
 
For idle I set 700rpm, because its automatic. The idle timing I left to 10 and the max idle I set to 32 degrees. I don't want to push the rev limiter, I'm only driving it on the street. I'm not familiar with the vacuum advance setup, thats why I'm asking.
Replaced the coil, spark plug wires and plugs, gapped them at 0.040. This is my first timing adjustment.

I have been looking for an automatic for my 2005 Gt for over a year now ,its nearly impossible to find ,it 2005 and 2006 only just like the wiring ...Fords better idea i guess! Just picked up a 2005 GT 30 miles from me for 2000. 
The kid decided to ad a radio and did his own wiring ,yep ,you guessed it ,he set it on fire! He burned the top off the fuse box ,and the casing off the harness but it didnt burn the wires . Melted a brand new battery ! I gave him 2000 for it ,got it home and replaced all the melted fuses and dropped in a new battery and yee haw the sucker fired right up haha!
I drove it around the pasture and it runs great and shifts perfect ,i could have put it back together but the kid started to strip it already . 
Today i pulled the motor and tranny and found it had a fresh rebuild tranny ,new starter ,new alternator ,front struts ,drilled and slotted rotors that dont even have the machine marks rubbed off ,new joints in the drive shaft and lowering springs . This is all going in my 2005 ,and it all cost me less than having my tranny rebuilt !
The motor has 121000 miles and runs great so it may go in my 56 fairlane . All in all it was a good day for me ,and i should have mine running  in a few days .

Empty spot. Already own the T5. Body goes to the shop on Friday. 
 

I'll add a third; get your harness refurbished by Randy at Midlife. Present company included, you won't find a nicer, more honest guy on the web.
http://midlifeharness.com/
 Phone Number: 850-624-7528
 

I had a 351w in my 69 with AFR heads. Never owned  trick flow heads but heard good things about them. On mine I used the FiTech EFI but my understanding it is the same height as the stock 4 barrel. I also used the RPM performer intake and 2 inch filter with no drop down and I had 1 inch hood clearance with stock motor mounts. 

Now that our new garage/shop is set up I lifted the hood & uncoiled the remaining wires under the hood that need to be hooked up. I had them coiled up & zip tied to various items under the hood when we moved it from NJ to Virginia.

I used the Ford intake that was sold by the dealer back in the day. It worked great with my stock shaker setup. Check out the video.  Ray
 

@TexasEd,
Thank you very much. You confirmed I do have an incorrect piece but it is NOT the one the body shop thought was incorrect. I have one coupe/convertible and one fastback. Coupe/convertible are longer than a fastback.

This is what he is looking for guys, 10A885:

The front windshield on my car is set directly on the pinch weld.  The headliner stops under the metal trim.  The rear goes under the glass rubber weather strip.  My car was built Jan 1969 in Dearborn.
Picture of the front under the metal trim that the sun visors attach to.  That is the rear view mirror on the right.

 

You can polish it on the glass, just be careful as it will be little awkward to handle and not heat it much.

As the shaft is collapsible, there is no pressure/force on the box. The inner shaft moves in or out while the outer shafts stays connected to box. The adjustment I mentioned is not much, may be an inch.

I think they did not fold the edge to eliminate the possibility of a leak as there is no gasket for the windshield; you can’t control how the windshield adhesive will flow and not cover the headliner edge thus creating a leak. 
Your’s look like original install to me.