danno

If you do find a buyer, you can pass along my information.   I have some of the missing parts.

This is the plate you are missing.  It is a simple piece of flat steel with 3 holes in it.  You could copy the one on the driver's side and have it made.  Use hex head shoulder screws and locking nuts instead of pins. Search for them on McMaster Carr web site. 

Vicfreg,  Barnett468 knows a lot of the details. Sometimes more than we want to know (ha ha). He helped me set the timing curve on my distributor, you can probably read the chatter we had about it last summer.   So you should  feel confident about his knowledge. 

Sorry I didn't keep in touch with you about this barnett. Busy with kids and stuff.  Anyways, if you still have the distributor available I would love to get it from you.  Thanks.

I did it also.  The horns would start with a normal sound, and a tenth second later would be a sick buzz like an alarm clock. They were not getting enough current through the horn switch and wires.  I added a relay at the horns, like the headlight relay.  

I must tell this story of maybe how cheap I actually am.  I bought my 69 convert in about 1984.  I bought new Monroe shocks for it with a " Lifetime Guarantee" in about 1985.  Last month I installed new Monroe shocks ( all four) for the 5th time since I bought my car. I have the records.  About every 6 years or so.   Every time I do it the new shocks are free; zero cost because of the guarantee.  I bet Monroe hates those like me, taking advantage or their programs.   Maybe they are not the best shocks, but when you can get new ones every 6 or 7 years for zero cost, it is hard to consider other options.   
Last month the would have cost me $170 if I had not had the guarantee. 

I must tell this story of maybe how cheap I actually am.  I bought my 69 convert in about 1984.  I bought new Monroe shocks for it with a " Lifetime Guarantee" in about 1985.  Last month I installed new Monroe shocks ( all four) for the 5th time since I bought my car. I have the records.  About every 6 years or so.   Every time I do it the new shocks are free; zero cost because of the guarantee.  I bet Monroe hates those like me, taking advantage or their programs.   Maybe they are not the best shocks, but when you can get new ones every 6 or 7 years for zero cost, it is hard to consider other options.   
Last month the would have cost me $170 if I had not had the guarantee. 

Just because something is making noise, it does not mean it is working.  I am thinking of a particular woman I know..
I would guess I kind of know what the noise of a motor should be.  The same for the woman...

I can't be sure, but it looks like a tape measure to me. 

Set your priorities. I did that 30 years ago, and still working on items.  Brakes and steering first.  Some of the prices and items seem way out of line.   Get it driving safely first, and then work on the smaller items.  Repair things as they break. 

Set your priorities. I did that 30 years ago, and still working on items.  Brakes and steering first.  Some of the prices and items seem way out of line.   Get it driving safely first, and then work on the smaller items.  Repair things as they break. 

The previous message had one of my better quotes.  Say nothing.

glad it helped! one time out of a hundred I make a suggestion that really helps. 

The compressor is maybe the only thing that would work in your coupe.   If you have an AC car already, then it probably would work, but like Mike said, getting the fittings and hoses could be a problem.  If you do not have a factory AC car, then go with a new kit ( maybe without the compressor??)

Yes, you understood exactly what I meant!  I know the diode was needed.  I figured B would go to the ignition ON, not start on.  But I can see you know what I am thinking.   I can see the complications you are mentioning, I just wanted to get the idea out there. 
I am not sure about the box with the dotted line at the lower left. It is not needed. Accy will work fine, as long as you are only doing the initial engagement of the relay.  When the key is turned to start, the ACCY power goes off, but by then the relay is engaged and held on my the NO contacts. 
I know about solidworks, I have not used the others you mentioned.  I have used Visio for schematics,  otherwise Cadence if it gets tied to a circuit card.  Too much of the time a pencil, paper, and a pdf scanner work perfectly well. Thank you for adding the schematic. 
Thanks.  I wonder if anyone else is following these details, or if anyone else cares? 

I know of one last year that sold for $6000,  but it had nice options, and was almost all restored. I would think more like $1000.  This car will take a lot of work to get to be a nice driver.  The body and paint work alone would be probably $4000?

I have had a NAPA rebuilt alt in my car for years with no problems.  But I am never more than 20 miles away from a NAPA store if it needs replacement.  I would also guess new ones are really cheap, unless you need a high amp alternator or a single wire one.    The reasons you might need a high amp alternator is if you have halogen headlights or an electric radiator fan.  Both of those are large power hogs. A amplifier for your radio typically does not take that much power.  A lot of people think it does, but that is not reality.   So a standard 60 amp alternator could work fine, I have used it for 30 years, even with AC, high power amplifiers, and halogen headlights.  
A solid state regulator is a good idea at the same time.  It is also a good  idea to insure all the wires and connectors are secure and clean.  Send your engine harness to Midlife and have him check it over, that will remove all doubt. 
Get on the road, summer is coming!

Ridge,  this is a great story.  I understand your loss of your nephew, it is terrible to go through such a thing.  I lost my brother 10 years ago to a similar situation.  You try to do all you can to make their time as valuable as you can.  Even if he could not drive it, he could dream.  I am sure he still does.  Thanks for sharing. 

Ridge,  this is a great story.  I understand your loss of your nephew, it is terrible to go through such a thing.  I lost my brother 10 years ago to a similar situation.  You try to do all you can to make their time as valuable as you can.  Even if he could not drive it, he could dream.  I am sure he still does.  Thanks for sharing. 

Ridge,  this is a great story.  I understand your loss of your nephew, it is terrible to go through such a thing.  I lost my brother 10 years ago to a similar situation.  You try to do all you can to make their time as valuable as you can.  Even if he could not drive it, he could dream.  I am sure he still does.  Thanks for sharing. 

I understand completely.  You have done your work on it.  I was just pointing it out, in case you had not.  

Anyone who knows enough about these cars to steal them would probably be able to figure this out.  It is better than nothing, and will certainly slow them down .   You think about it, and I could hotwire any 69 Ford and drive it away in 30 seconds.   How did they ever get by with that back then?   There are other ways to do it, with the ignition coil.   Put the same switch on the wire to the distributor.  Have it ground all the time the switch is on, and the car will not start. It requires one extra wire from the coil to under the dash to the hidden switch.  Very simple and very effective. 
 

I'm with 69 Mach. I would never believe it until it happened to me, but it was a coil issue. Check for spark, it is an easy thing to verify.  If it has spark, then carb.  I am not a carb guy, I have a 2100 in my 302.  Very simple.  

Darkness is good.  The woman I am with looks better in dim light.

Darkness is good.  The woman I am with looks better in dim light.