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About grendi

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    I6 HO powered poster
  • Birthday 09/19/1976

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  1. i guess you found the only tire available in that size, and yes, it is street legal (DOT Certified)! but unless your planing to convert your mustang to front wheel drive, i don't think putting those on your car is a good idea. :-D
  2. no it's not. while in the US backspacing was common, europe used offset, and now we have a mix of both.... the best of both worlds. that's why rims are measured in inch, but tires in mm..... ;-)
  3. 245-55-15 does not exist, but 235/60R15 does, and they are 26.1" in height, if that is the look you want and yes, the tire "bulges" will be bigger with 7" rims. while a backspacing of 4.5" (E~0) is correct for 8", you would need a backspacing of 4.0" to get ET~0 with 7" rims. i would like to mention this tool to find the right rim/tire size for your car. https://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp please be aware that you can try out tire sizes that simply do not exist (like the mentioned 245/55R15).
  4. Make sure you don't buy cheap chinese UCA, I got the scott drake 4-rivet ones after one of my china crap UCAs locked up after 2 years and so far, they work. If I would buy today, I might also consider dynacorn #3631JL UCAs
  5. yes, that chart is the best starting point. other useful links: http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/Offset-to-Backspace.html convert offset to backspace http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/Backspace-Offset-Calculator.html convert backspace to offset https://rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp compare two rim/tire combinations
  6. if you live in Switzerland, nothing is cheap as you have to import everything from the US. .....but if you can get me both quarter windows with brackets and trim, in good quality for a reasonable price, let me know. A friend of me has shipping containers leaving from california to switzerland every few month.
  7. you guys are great! @mustangstofear good idea, however I checked the parts and I don't see them fit, as the window shape of the 69 and the 70 windows are different. @aslanefe thanks for the tip with the video. it was very helpful for fixing my driver side window problem. in fact, i don't think i could have done it without.@ @Johns Summer of 69 wow, I thought that shop was just for cougars (a friend of me gets his cougar parts there), but they have a nice stock of parts that are not available as repros and a lot of knowledge. some info on the progress: I dropped the idea of using this kit https://www.cjponyparts.com/door-glass-conversion-kit-bolt-in-coupe-convertible-1969-1970/p/DGK1-V/ for the moment, as there are way too many parts missing and not available as repros at he moment. ...... unfortunately, I ordered that kit 3 month before WCCC released there instruction video on youtube. :-( So i did what I should have done a long time ago and removed the door panel of the driver door to take a look at the problem. It turned out that the main problem was not the glued window (but yes, I should fix in the near future too) the main problem were the window guides. the rear window guide was slightly out of shape and misaligned, the font window guide was lying in the door, together with the mounting screws and also slightly out of shape. Turns out one of the previous owners had used the wrong screws (to long in the back, to short in the front) to attach the window bracket to the window guide, resulting in two stripped threads on the front guide. Fix: I cut two new "M7" threads in the window guide, and shortened two "M7" screws to the right length, and replaced the back screws with the right type and length. I heated the rear bracket with a small torch and used a vice to get the parts back into the right shape. I used a combination of two original and two repro gliders on both guides to get them sliding free from play. So far everything looks good (y)
  8. I'm trying to do a 1970 windows swap on my 1969 mustang hardtop. Unfortunately, I recently found out, that if I change the door windows, I have to replace the quarter windows as well. Now I'm trying to get the chrome trim with weatherstrip that is glued to the quarter panel window. (see attached picture) Does anyone know where to get them? If someone could send me a picture of the 1970 quarter panel window assembly guide page it would also help greatly.
  9. the best way to start a resto is getting a dynacorn body.
  10. if your swapping the carb, and your looking for the best mpg and power, you might look at the one of those throttle body style self tuning fuel injection systems.
  11. sorry, my bad, i mixed up the idler arm and the spring perches
  12. a slightly faster response, besides there is less torsion on the shocks.
  13. i did this on both my cars i can recommend it, even if you have to replace the brand new mirror glass of a new racing style mirror.
  14. basically it looks just like on your third picture, but the small barrel has a screw from the side that fixes the cable. Unfortunatly, when i had the engine done, my mechanic must have had a problem with his ears when i asked him to contact me before modding any original part of my car. he tried to use the lokar clevis and used a dremel to make the hole bigger. i had to fix that as you can see on my picture, i bent a washer disk to fit the original rounding and glued it to the pedal with 2K epoxy for metal. get a cable stop that has the hole as close to the center as possible and is at least 1/2" wide without screw.
  15. yes exactly. this will work if your pedal looks like the one in the attached picture. I could post a picture of my setup if you need it. by the way, the lokar cables can be shortend to the desired size. i have seen crazy stuff from people who did not know this.
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