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Everything posted by danno

  1. I am not worried about the heat, as I am just a daily driver on the freeways in Minneapolis. What are the more aggressive pads? It is good to hear they have the potential to work better. It was about 20 years ago I fought the same problem with the power steering. I did all the upgrades and got everything as good as it could be. In 1969 it was probably ok, but not in 1999. So I installed rack and pinion, and it was the greatest thing I have done to improve driveablity. I just do not want to spend a whole bunch of time and money, and still have something substandard. So it sounds like the brakes will be better than the steering. I will let you know how it goes.
  2. I am in the process now of installing new calipers, new master, and new pads. recently install new hoses to the wheels and rear axel rebuilt the proportioning valve. I have bought the cheap pads already, I could try others if they might work better. If the factory power disc brakes can lock up the front wheels ( or close to it) if everything is correct, I will continue with getting the system as good as possible. But if even a perfect factory system is not that great, maybe I should switch to an aftermarket system? Barnett, what is a good set of pads, and where do I get them?
  3. Sorry to bring this up again, but I also have factory power disc front, drum rears. I have never been satisfied with them. I want to be able to lock up the front wheels in a panic stop, and they will not do it. The consensus here seems that the factory system is fine. Is the problem something in my system?
  4. Still not sold. Price reduced again. Now $1140 plus shipping for those purchasing from me using this forum.
  5. Set your priorities. I did that 30 years ago, and still working on items. Brakes and steering first. Some of the prices and items seem way out of line. Get it driving safely first, and then work on the smaller items. Repair things as they break.
  6. I had thought of this on mine. The pressure idea could work, but I was thinking of a timer. Press the button to go up, and it turns on the pump to go up for 8.5 seconds. Press the button to go down and it reverses the pump and runs for 6.3 seconds. I know this will work, but it would mean designing the electrical timer and putting it together. The other method is with limit switches. When you press the button to go up, the pump runs until the top triggers a switch to tell the motor to shut off. This would require some method of attaching switches to detect when it is all the way up or down. I also wanted to do this on my power windows. Then connect it all to the trunk release button on my remote control door unlock button. I press the button on my remote control, and all 4 windows go down and the top goes down. I will get to it in the next 30 years, when I have time. Dreaming takes little time; I can do that today.
  7. Mach1driver has a great suggestion. Use those.
  8. That is a real shame they got tossed out. The other problem I can see is getting the wire connections on the end of the wires through the little hole in them. I have a cable with the grommets molded onto it. Does Painless have a solution?
  9. The metal clasp might really sting. Better to use a flyswatter. I wish I could have been so lucky.
  10. I am surprised nobody wants these. They could probably be used to fix front belts, or use them on your bicycle!
  11. The price for buyers on this forum is now $1210 plus shipping. It has been reduced to $1280 on fleebay. Again, you must purchase from me direct to get this price. The first person to offer my price wins the bid, if it is someone on this forum, Vintagemustang, or fleebay.
  12. I had to laugh at your typo, because I do feel like driving on fat ground after some of those evening dinners on the road :-) I do not have a way to measure vacuum, but will see what the mileage is like in the next weeks when I am driving on the fat ground. Thank you!
  13. I still think the grommets could still be on the wires, just jammed inside the door or door frame. Why would they be missing?
  14. I also see that at least 3 of those columns shown are column shift cars, so they are not a Mustang or Cougar. The D0AA is a 1970 Ford Truck, the D1AA is a 1971 Truck. The column lengths , guts, and some parts will be different on those. But the critical parts for the tilt are the same.
  15. No kidding, patience! I must have had the lower plate off and on 20 times. I am not aware of any adjustments on the vacuum advance. Don't you just hook it up? Will adjusting make that much difference?
  16. I have a used one if you want it.
  17. Adam, West Coast Classic Cougar fixes columns, and they will also buy the columns with tilt that you do not want. They typically pay about 25% to 50% of what they sell the parts for. But maybe Maybe you could negotiate parts for repairs? Send them an email or call and see what they say. It is certainly worth calling them. I can also walk you through it. It could be a very simple fix.
  18. Ok, I now have it at: 10 degrees at 700 (engine rpm), 13 at 1000, 20 at 1500, and 22 at 2000. 23 is max at 2200. So it is very, very close. So at 1000 and 1500 it is just a hair low. I find that bending the things that the springs attach to makes a delicate difference. It makes no noticeable difference in engine speed by advancing the timing 4 degrees at any engine speed, including 2800. Shall I call this good enough for an every day driver, or ( as long as I am working on it) get it perfect.
  19. Yes, I have the table in the Ford manual, and I will start with that. So with the example above, at 1000 distributor advance and 10 degrees initial timing, the total ( engine idle + centrifugal) is 15 to 19.5 degrees. For my motor, the book has 6 to 8.25 at 1000. So that is 22 to 26 crankshaft degrees at at 2000 rpm engine speed. I will get it close. From what Barnett suggested, next I will check to see if the engine speeds speeds up when the carb is set for 2800 rpm and timing is advanced.
  20. Yes! thank you. Now I can continue with the adjustments!
  21. I am adjusting the disti centrifugal advance on a factory 302 C9AF-N distributor. The book lists the specs as " distributor rpm". Is this half engine rpm? The distributor rpm is either half or twice the engine rpm. Or is it the same as engine rpm?
  22. I take back what I said earlier about removing the steering column. With the access you have ( based on the photo above) you do not need to. You need to remove the wheel and turn signal switch. Do not cut the wires, the wires pull out of the half moon connector, but there are tricks to do that.
  23. If you do not need the whole harness, either midlife or I can maybe supply them. Are you sure they are not on the wires, maybe the whole thing slipped inside the door or door frame? Follow the wires on the inside and see if the grommet is there, hidden from view.
  24. You need to find out why it is not tilting. That means taking the whole thing apart. This starts by removing the wheel and spacers or adapters to get to the turn signal switch. After you get that single large nut removed, the bracket should pull off, but if often takes a wheel puller to break it loose. With a 1969, I know the task can be completed without removing the steering column, but I am quite sure you need to remove the whole column for a 1970. This is a large job, it will take a couple hours. You need to remove the steering shaft at the rag joint, and take apart the linkage for the mechanism that locks the tranny in park when the key is off. Once you get the wheel off and column removed, then you need to remove the turn signal switch. I think there is a video of that on youtube by west coast classic cougar. Check back when you get these tasks done.
  25. OK, I will test at 2800 tonight after I find the safety glasses again!
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