69RavenConv

I have a 70 vert with glue on door glass. The metal strip and weather strip is on quarter glass.
Don't know how accurate but what I found through my searches and comparing my 69 coupes, 70 coupe (with bolt on glass) and 70 vert (with glue on glass) is that, 69 coupe and vert has metal trim and weather strip on door glass.
70 coupe and vert has metal trim and weather strip on quarter glass, doesn't matter if it is glued on (early model) or bolted door glass.
69 door glass is not same as 70 glued on glass, 70 door glass is a little wider and 69 quarter glass is a little wider than 70 quarter glass.
Metal trim for weather strip for 69 is not the same for 70,  the weather strip that goes on it are also different between 69 and 70.
Did I confuse you more?

I take it you're single and without a girlfriend?

+1 on the Torino mirrors if you want remote passenger control. There's a few threads about those out there. That won't solve the vibration problem, though - I get it too at certain times, when my speed and RPMs align just right - the mirrors are a blur.  Not sure what can be done for that. You could look at modern mirrors but I think the unique profile of our doors can be a problem when it comes to transplanting just any mirror.
Have you thought about just calling the guy in the Chevy on your cell phone and asking him what's back there?

That kit looks familiar...
 

So I've owned the car for more than 35 years and I ordered a Deluxe Marti Report earlier this week. Built Friday December 6th 1968.
A nothing special mustang and why I've had no reservation whatsoever of modifying this car.

Oh you silly people ,complaining about a .10 tax ...come on out to Cali. We will show what a gas tax really is haha!  Wait a minute ...that aint funny :(

I had not heard that. We still get to pay the new 10c per gallon fuel tax, though.
I'll probably still run the 1969 plate on the front of the 1969 Mustang. :)

Apparently July 2020 the front plate goes away. 
https://www.wdtn.com/news/local-news/ohio-drops-front-license-plate-requirement/1898881387

Crap, I know better than to post while intoxicated....I'm gonna miss you guys!

I believe it's a felony to use the C word here. Turn in your keys Phil. 

Huh, mine turned 50 on March 19th, Happy belated birthday old girl!

Um i would take a 71 Baracuda ...and runs and hides !

Welp, since I had nothing else to do I figured I might as well swap out the old small 13" 2001 Cobra front brakes and make some brackets to mount 14.2" rotors and 4 piston Brembo calipers. 
I used 1/2" MDF to get the pattern correct, then made the brackets out of 6061-T6. I used the steel spindle bracket from the Cobra calipers, and had to clock the caliper so the aluminum bracket isn't symmetrical. 


I've got good pedal feel so I believe I'll take it for a spin tomorrow. 

Smoky burnouts wouldn't have anything to do with it, would they?

Smoky burnouts wouldn't have anything to do with it, would they?

Happy 50th darlin! Born on January 22, 1969 in Milpitas Ca. A pic of her as I'm trying to figure out why she keeps destroying rear main seals. 

Build date Jan 16, 1969
 

Brakes Bled, timing set (still runs rough). First time out of the garage in 7 years!
Did a shadetree alignment and drove her around the block.  Had a lot of squeaks like maybe I did not install bearings right or something.  
Looking into trailering her to a shop for alignment, checking those squeaks and fine tuning it.

I apologize for the late response to my original speedometer problem.  I solved the issue!!!   I was directed by a transmission shop to a local speedometer cable manufacturer and who knew exactly what the issue was.  Any speedometer cable coiled, wrapped up and sitting on the shelf after a period of time develops a 'memory'.  This memory does not go away even when the cable is straightened out and installed as the inner cable will still rub against the inside of the cable housing causing the erradic behavior.  Fortunately I had kept the OEM speedo head.  The cable manufacturer tested it for free just to verify it was working properly and found it to be in perfect working order.   They made me a brand new speedometer cable for under $30 in about 20 minutes.  Gave the explanation of the after-market cable issue to the repair shop.  They told me that if they installed it and if it didn't solve the issue they would have to charge me additional labor.  Guess what??  My speedometer gauge worked as it should.  I  got a refund for the the new speedo head and their after-market cable along with a partial refund for the original labor.
The story ends with a funny anecdote.  A few months after resolving my issue a car club member was describing his speedometer headaches with the exact same issues I had experienced.  He had purchased his speedometer cable from the same retailer/repair shop as I did.  After explaining to him how I resolved it he returned the part and gave an explanation why he was returning it.  The club member told me the retailer/repair shop gave him the exact same explanation I had given to him as if they knew the issue all along.  They told him sometimes these after-market cables worked and sometime not.  They recommended he go to the speedometer cable manufacturer which he did.  Fixed his problem too.

There should be a single wire with a right-angle connector that slides over the threaded post on the back. It's unswitched 12V thru a 15A fuse (I think it's 15A). Blue with red tracer maybe.

Re-coring your original is a good move.  I have been recording my originals for decades with never a regret.  The re-install always goes smoothly and I have never noted any negative difference in cooling performance.  The radiators for my 65 and 66 200 and 289 cars get the three row up grade.  The 69/428 is stock with the three row and this last time I up graded the core replacement from the stock 123 tubes 8 fins per inch to the modern 159 tubes 13 fins per inch.  The tube and fin count is what I was told.  The shop I have been using for the last 45 years orders the core replacement and does the installation re-using my top , bottom tanks and the original side straps. The shops that will or can provide this service are becoming scarce.  You are fortunate that you found one. I prefer to refurbish and reuse my original parts rather than piling them up in the garage where they are only one step away from the trash.  Brian

I just meant to close the loop on this event:
23 cars eventually attended. Only one 1970 Boss, no 69. Perfect weather for a perfect day. Tracking these cars is an absolute blast!
Our next event is set for 22, 23 June 2019.
G

My Password problem has been fixed! So nice to be able to log in without having to do a password reset. Thanks again bswor for your help.

It might work. I wonder how the rear circuit would respond if there is nowhere for brake fluid to flow? It could prevent pedal movement?
And remember to switch it back on.  A dumba$$ like me would forget and drive around with disabled brakes for weeks at a time.

Wouldn't a line lock setup like drag racers use work? Locks the front lines instead of disabling the rears but the result is about the same. 

I'm sorry, I obviously missed the sale of the car. I don't surf the Mustang web nearly as much as I once did. Glad you're ok!!