1969Mach1_428CJ

Can someone provide me with step by step instructions on how to remove the door glass vertical moulding and how to reinstall a new weatherstripping with new moulding (1969 Mustang FB) ? What type of adhesive to use and where can I get it? On my driver side the moulding has split apart at the top. I would like to try to do this myself. Thanks in advance. Larry (LLEE67@hotmail.com)

Before I start tearing my dash apart does anyone know, from easiest to hardest, how to troubleshoot why the heater blower switch suddenly stopped working on my 1969 Mach 1. One day the blower fan, heater, and air conditioning worked and the next day nothing worked. Did not do any wiring or body changes when this happened. I did the obvious and checked/ replaced the 30 amp fuse already. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

I apologize for the late response to my original speedometer problem. I solved the issue!!! I was directed by a transmission shop to a local speedometer cable manufacturer and who knew exactly what the issue was. Any speedometer cable coiled, wrapped up and sitting on the shelf after a period of time develops a 'memory'. This memory does not go away even when the cable is straightened out and installed as the inner cable will still rub against the inside of the cable housing causing the erradic behavior. Fortunately I had kept the OEM speedo head. The cable manufacturer tested it for free just to verify it was working properly and found it to be in perfect working order. They made me a brand new speedometer cable for under $30 in about 20 minutes. Gave the explanation of the after-market cable issue to the repair shop. They told me that if they installed it and if it didn't solve the issue they would have to charge me additional labor. Guess what?? My speedometer gauge worked as it should. I got a refund for the the new speedo head and their after-market cable along with a partial refund for the original labor. The story ends with a funny anecdote. A few months after resolving my issue a car club member was describing his speedometer headaches with the exact same issues I had experienced. He had purchased his speedometer cable from the same retailer/repair shop as I did. After explaining to him how I resolved it he returned the part and gave an explanation why he was returning it. The club member told me the retailer/repair shop gave him the exact same explanation I had given to him as if they knew the issue all along. They told him sometimes these after-market cables worked and sometime not. They recommended he go to the speedometer cable manufacturer which he did. Fixed his problem too.

Hello, I own a 1969 Mach 1 “R†Code with an automatic and air conditioning. I’m having issues with my speedometer. I recently had to replace my aging cluster circuit board. The repair shop broke the clip holding the speedometer cable to the back of the speedometer gauge and installed a new cable. Prior to the new speedo cable being installed the speedometer gauge functioned properly. My first series of issues with the new speedo cable were as follows comparing my GPS speed to the gauge: 1. The speedo gauge needle would not move until I reached a speed around 15 – 20 mph. It would then jump up and gradually match actual speed. 2. If I maintained a steady speed around 50 mph the needle would slowly increase to 90 mph. 3. When I stop the needle would not return to zero but remain at around 15 mph. 4. When I jiggled the cable from inside the engine compartment the needle would drop to zero. I suspected a bad cable and returned to the repair shop. They replaced the cable with a new one. My second series of issues were: 1. The speedo gauge would not move until I reached 20 mph. Then it would begin to move upwards but never reaching or matching actual speed. Under 40 mph (gauge speed) the needle would always be lower than actual speed; e.g. gauge reads 20 mph and actual speed is 35 mph. 2. Maintaining a steady speed of 50 mph or more the needle would increase quickly to around 90 mph. 3. If I go over road bumps or railroad tracks the needle would bounce higher and lower and then steady itself after a few passes but never matching actual speed. This occurs more frequently at higher speeds. This was a new issue. 4. When I stopped the needle returns to zero. The repair shop performed the following troubleshooting steps: 1. Replace the speedo head gauge – no improvement. 2. Removed the inner cable and greased it - no improvement. 3. Replace the plastic speedo gear at the transmission – no improvement. 4. Inspected the transmission out gear – appears to functioning properly. I had no problems until the speedometer cable was replaced. Anybody have any ideas how to fix this? Thanks, Larry

You may want to also check your float valve. Recently I changed the fuel filter and a few days later my engine was running rough and couldn't maintain idle. Removed valve and cleaned it using an air blower, reinstalled, and issue went away.

Here are some pictures.

My 1969 Mach 1 has the slat sitting just on the inside of the chrome all the way around.