SweellTrex

Australia not close enough? I'm interested if there's a couple of months to save for it. I should be able to organise freight through a local importer.

Could some one post a pic showing the routing of the front wiring harness.
Checking mine last night and it has some nasty crap repairs done.
Mine is a mess where the alternator wiring goes to the solenoid and voltage regulator.
Thanks
Walt

70 convert, 302/auto, PS, PDB, orig working A/C. Motor to my knowledge has not been rebuilt, does not smoke, has alum 4 barrel intake and carb, but have orig 2 v intake/ carb. Trans was rebuilt several years ago, have receipt. New exhaust with factory exhaust manifolds. All Numbers matching, all original sheet metal, and rust free. Professionally painted by Triple F Automotive, spent roughly 10,000. Top was replaced 4-5 years ago and has 4 small 1/4" holes due to screw issues. Interior has new carpet, pad, and new seat covers. Factory am radio installed and still works.
Asking 23,500

Ok Its MY rant about people who do not follow thru or do not read your ad completely.
When you post something for sale and are as honest with your description as you can be because if your not what do you say when they show up and look at it?
You get responses that they have cash in hand then they want to do check or wire transfer, WTF!
Then you get someone who says they want it and will be in touch, please do not sell t to someone else.
So you pull your ad waiting for them to come or call for a week and no reply.
So you re post your ad only to have them email you saying I thought you were selling it to me?
 
Am I losing it or was my ad not clear enough?
 
Not sure how to post it here, Am not that electronic 10 year old smart.
My ad is on craigslist in Portland. Id # 6047003399
 
If you have a moment please read it and let me know what I should add to it.
 
Thanks for your time. 

Let me look. I dont think i will have one but I may. I will let you know if i do find one though. Thanks
 
-Nick
 
P.s I am not sure how these pictures got attached. These are not any that i have uploaded. Tried to delete them but somehow cant. Please Ignore them. Thanks

Hey Guys,
 
It has been awhile since i have been on the boards here. I have a bunch of parts that are from the private stash. All of these parts are in original and excellent condition and some are even restored originals. Below is a list and just some of the pictures i have of the parts.
 
$750.00 - Shelby console insert *Excellent Condition* (Original never mounted) 
$750.00 - 1969 Mustang console *Restored* (Original comes with wiring harness)
$150.00 - 1969 Mustang sport mirrors pair (Original) 2 sets
$45.00 - 1969 Neutral safety switch
$299.99 - 1969 Deluxe door panels *Excellent Condition* Pair (Originals w/out wiring harnesses) Sold + $99.00 for the Quarter panel deluxe panels
$40.00 - Headliner front piece (metal, repainted) Sold
$70.00 - Trim piece set *Excellent Condition* (Set of 7)  Sold
$250.00 - Mach1 hood scoop *Restored* (Complete w/out wiring harness)
$25.00 -  Brand new ashtray gauge pod (Shelby)
$70.00 - Am Radio w/ Knobs * Great Condition*
$450.00 - NOS Dual tip exhaust *Excellent Condition* (w/ NOS box)
$79.99 - Maplight *Restored* (Original w/ wiring) 2 sets  1 left
$10.00 - Ignition switch
$59.99 - Underdash lights *Excellent Condition* (Original) 2 sets
$25.00 - Light switch (Original)
$69.99 - Lock Set (Aftermarket New)
$24.99 - Radio Bezel w/ Wood (Aftermarket New)
$89.99 - Gas cap *Excellent Condition* (Original w/ running horse)
$149.99 - Gas cap *Great Condition* (Original w/ GT emblem)
$19.99ea - 351 Hood scoop emblems (Original) 3 available
$30.00 - Gt rear valance (Aftermarket)
$99.99 - A/c Dash (Original) Sold
$199.99 - Cougar Tach Harness (Engine Bay)
$349.99 - Mach 1 Seats (Original)
$99.99 - Grande Clock bezel w/ woodgrain
$499.99 - 1969 Big Block Shock tower half of a car assembly (everything intacted and perfect no rust)
$199.99ea - Mustang Shaker Scoop (New style not classic mustang) 3 available
$2,999.99 - Police interceptor engine Rebuilt (runs great)
$30.00 - 1969 Cougar front springs (Original)
 
All Prices are obo + shipping. 

I can't even comprehend what that would be like to live in, such a different climate to here. But we are hoping to experience it before too long, looking at doing a road trip in an RV across a fair chunk of your country, either in Nov/Dec but is now looking like it'll be Feb next year as it's a fair bit cheaper to travel at that time.
 
Hope the good weather continues for you anyway, get lots done!

does anyone do a road trip event across Texas? I would love to do one with other classic cars, if anyone have info that would be great

A customer called me today about a problem with his 70.  It would crank with the red/blue wire on the first post of the starter solenoid but not when the brown wire was attached there.  He said the assembly manual had it that way.  No way, I said!
 
Sure enough: look at page EO-115-1, View A, and the red/blue wire is indicated with A and the brown wire as E with the E in front and the A in back!
 
Just because it was printed on paper, doesn't mean it is correct...
 
So now it is on the Internet and the error is correct.

Now that I have one side of the leaf springs removed & will get the other side out this weekend, I need to remove the shackle bushings that go through the frame rail so I could install the new ones. Any tips or suggestions on how to remove the old ones since they feel like they do not want to come out.

Thanks Bill, its comming along. We had a couple days of mild 55 degrees days here in south Jersey so out came the Coupe & I cut the upper lip off the quarter skin & fitted & screwed it to the lip I left on the face of the old quarter panel, & clamped it. Looks like it will need a little tweaking for a better alignment to the door & the rear qaurter extension before I weld it in place. But for the most part it looks good I am happy with the fit & finish & thickness of the re-pop metal. Now off to the welding supply store for the gas for my newly upgraded welder. I went from flux core to MIG.

I did the Borgeson upgrade on my '68 which originally came with manual steering.   I am very happy with the install.  I have no leaks.   I did have to make a caster adjustment (I finally read their instructions) to get the car to stop that "hunting" behavior when the steering wheel was in the center position. Once I did that, it totally changed how the car handled.   I have 16" inch rims with stock height tires, and 1" inch lower in the front, so I could not get all the caster they recommended, but it works great now.  
 
My advice is to find a good front end alignment shop. I found an old school guy who had a vintage "Bear" alignment rack...totally manual with no computers.  That did the trick.   The dumbasses that work at these alignment shops these days can't do any custom (add more caster) adjustments.....they don't know how.
 
To avoid the Z-bar problem, I went with a cable clutch, which I am also very happy with.   I also put heat wrap (DEI) on my power steering lines, as they are pretty close to my Tri-Y headers.   No problems noted there.
 
I plan to do the same upgrade on my 1970 project. Will have to change to the manual drag link as it was originally a power steering car.

I'm in the process of welding up my two new fender aprons and new radiator support bracket. I have all this clamped together but before final weld, I put my fenders and hood back on to ensure that everything would align properly. Interesting to me is that there is a cut out in the fender apron in the area of one of the rubber fender bumpers that extends beyond the fender. This on both aprons. With the fender bolted on, one can see daylight through it. I've never noted this before. I attempted to move the fender such that it would cover the cutout but such an adjustment negates proper panel alignment. My fenders are OEM while the aprons are aftermarket. A search on the web shows some fenders have a tab on the fender that covers these cut outs. What's up here? Is the open area as seen on my car normal or is there a problem with the fender apron cutout?
 
 

Hello everyone, I've been on other Mustang forums, but thought I should join this one since my only current Mustang is a 69 vert.  Its been in the family around 10 years, I just bought it from my brother after he and my dad worked on it for several years. I had an unfortunate engine fire in it around October and just got it back from the shop a couple of days ago.  I have a few issues right now (mostly something with a head I believe, it smokes randomly, usually after letting off from acceleration, its white and I think its valves).  Here she is, I've named her Angie after the song and a red-haired girl I knew in school.
 
 

I'm not convinced that units like the Global West and Tinman are anything more than a long torsion bar. I'm sure they add some rigidity but I'm not sure if its really noticeable. How could it even be proven? Just connecting the rear subframe to the front subframe with a long flexible bar may not do very much.
What exactly are they supposed to do? Do they stiffen the chassis when cornering and make it more predictable, and maybe help prevent the chassis from flexing when reving the engine? Given the structure, nothing would prevent all flex.
 
Maybe one of our mechanical engineers could weigh in on this and straighten us out?? Maybe you have some first hand knowledge that it really does something that is tangible.

Now that's classic... ROTFLMAO!!
 
It's a private joke.
"Randy" happens to be Midlife's real first name.
"Robert" has been mistakenly believed by some to be his first name for a couple weeks now. Which annoys him and make us laugh!
 
Nothing more.
G

Installing our MTF mini tubs. You can also see how we moved the seat belt anchors forward in the tunnel.

It's fiberglass.

Are we waiting on Craig to pic a color or what?

It looks like there are several good options to chose, for going from manual front drum brakes to disc.
 
I'm not too interested in power brakes so I don't need to worry about a booster.
 
that said, are any kits superior than others?  I can't really differentiate what makes one better than another:
 
-chockostang is $700
http://www.chockostangclassicmustang.com/discbrakepowersteering/discbrakeconversions.html
 
-SSBC is $1100
http://ssbrakes.com/i-10093667-1967-1969-ford-mustang-front-non-power-disc-brake-conversion-kit-a121.html
 
-MustangSteve has parts
-Scott Drake (via CJ pony parts) has a kit as well ($700)
 
why would SSBC's kit be $400 more than chockostang?

Can't believe you got it in like that with the headers, well done!!!
 
How you did it though has me stumped, mine was no way going to come out with the headers on. I'm not even going to attempt again with the Hookers, I've been told FPA's slip in easy so am going to get them.

Looks great!
 
In one of your posts a picture shows the rear quarter panels removed. Did they prime & Seal behind the quarter panels too?

Gentlemen,
 
I have decided to finally start my first restoration project. I have posted on here before. Since then, I have been checking out this forum for the past three months and have got the fever!
 
 
Attached are some more pics of the car.
 
Here is my plan:
69 Mach 1 R-Code Fastback.
Going with the original 428CJ in it. Painting the car Gulfstream Aqua (original color)
 
I would like some starting tips, pointers, do's and dont's.
 
What do I need to do first? What tools should I get? What order does the car need to be fixed? What things would you farm out? What things would you do yourself?
 
 
Could you all point me in the right direction?
 
PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!:helpsmilie:

Wanna trade?? Lol. I'm trying to talk myself into the black. Everyone(my friends and family) knows I hate black cars and would never buy a black car.......and I have probably one of the best muscle cars ever.....and its black. So it's been tough ever since I pulled the marti report on it. Ugghh!! Sad thing is Gulfstream Aqua has been my favorite color on this car since I first saw one like it.....and I always thought it was the original color (for 29 yrs) because it was the only stock color on the underside of my side view mirror.