bigmal

She 
She is designated to get in the hard to reach areas like trunk cause Mike and I are tooooooo biiiiigggg!

Even if you welded it to the lip like your thinking of it will more than likely cause the paint in the trunk to peel above it due to the heat from welding. I would just drill out the spot welds and replace it properly rather than try to do a patch job on something structural. Once you cut it out I’m sure the rust is worse than you can actually see as it usually always is. Depending on how your trunk is “finished” you can always have the paint matched and blend it and a trunk mat will cover it also. 

That's a short cut I wouldn't even consider. 

That's a really difficult section to weld in situ. As you start removing the rust you'll probably find more and more. I'd buy the section of frame and replace it. For me this would be the easiest and quickest way.

When I did the right hand drive conversion I had to change the location of the wipers. I had just bought a TIG and as I was learning so warped the panel. I tried hammering it out and even with bog I wasn't happy so I decided to get a new panel and have another go. This time with the old faithful TIG. As I have no idea what sort of paint or coating was used on the bonnet I can't match it so will need to repaint that as well. I'm pretty happy this time round.

When I did the right hand drive conversion I had to change the location of the wipers. I had just bought a TIG and as I was learning so warped the panel. I tried hammering it out and even with bog I wasn't happy so I decided to get a new panel and have another go. This time with the old faithful TIG. As I have no idea what sort of paint or coating was used on the bonnet I can't match it so will need to repaint that as well. I'm pretty happy this time round.

Looking good

Just a few shots from this evening.

The owners picked up their car :)

Thanks for clearing that up.  https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/69-mustang-clock-knob-removal.587881/  Brian 

I've messed with a bunch of clocks over the years, many I've put quartz movements in and a couple I've got going again with the stock movements.   Only had 1 or two that I could not get the knob to come off and gave up as I was concerned that I'd break the stem before it would actually unscrew.   One of the stubborn ones was a '69-70 Mach 1 clock.
The knob on O.E. '69-70 Mach 1 clocks is metal, not "plastic" so, there is a chance the shaft could snap off.
Doug   

Something like the picture below.  I took a small rectangle plate and made a slit so it would fit under gear (with sprint pushed back). Then added a sheet rock screw to tip so point was small enough to press against gear post.  It came out by twisting the gear puller by hand. To put it back on, you simply put a small socket over it and tap it with small hammer.  see mustang360 article http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/interior-electrical/75658/photo-24.html

hi bigmal, you have to pull the little gear off the clock wet pin (see photo).  I used a ball joint puller and rigged it so it would fit the small gear. some people say to use long nose pliers but i was skeptical that I would break it.  
 


 

Hi Mal, 
mustang monthly did an article on how to strip down and repair clocks. It’s a 67/68 but the same principles. Just google it. 
I ended up doing mine a few years back with a new quartz movement. 
 

I finally got my clock ticking again. After removing my clock to check out why it wasn't ticking, i notice the contact broke off but that was 1 of 2 issues. I ended up soldering it on after 1000 attempts only to find out that the solenoid was burnt out. I found a company that makes the original electromechanical kit and replaced the guts with NOS. I am a stickler for originality and didn't want to convert to quartz.  I'll point out a few things that I'm sure will help the next guy.  The clock set knob does not come off.  I had to take off the sprocket (cog gear) by using a gear puller. Made a small plate with a slit to fit behind the small sprocket and attached a screw to the point of the gear puller so it would fit the tiny post on the gear. Then after a few steps i pulled the guts and replaced them.Kit cost $85 which was well worth it consider broken clocks are going for >$150.  anyone needing advise can reply. thanks

104-12t electromechanical kit
https://www.clocksandgauges.com/electric-clock-repair-kit.html

hopefully this pic will help the next guy

Contrary to that thread link, the knobs just unscrew.  Pull the shaft out to full extension, grip the shaft and unscrew the knob.  Since you can buy new knobs, if the removal is really tough you can just grip the shaft with something and gorilla the plastic knob if necessary to unscrew it.  Then use a new knob when you reassemble.

Check out this recent thread.
 

I did replace the unit with a Custom Autosound radio that has a ISO plug, so it basically just plugged in with no rewiring.  I got the model that doesn't have bluetooth but it has an aux cord witch I ran into the glove box so I can plug in my phone and leave it in there when I play Pandora. I can live without taking calls in the car. If I needed that option I would have payed another $100 and got the upgrade.
  It looks as close to stock as the retrosound and at this point I'm not going for 'original' look anyway.    It's funny how your goals change as your project progresses. 
   

Thanks for the warm welcome guys, yes it’s hard to believe we do get sun in the U.K. on occasions.!
i live as far as south  as you can get in U.K. literally as close to `France as you can get across the English  channel, and we do get more sun here then rest of The U.K., which is saying a lot, lol.
 

Very nice, but are you sure those pictures are in the UK. That's blue sky. 

Quit stealing all our damn cars!  :)
Just pulling your chain. Welcome to the forum Chris. Nice work on the 70. But I'm with the others on the blue sky. 

Very nice, but are you sure those pictures are in the UK. That's blue sky. 

Now that's serious.  Is that the 2nd gear scratch/wiggle out there in the distance ?

That's not punny.