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bigmal

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Everything posted by bigmal

  1. bigmal

    Lower Radiator hose spring

    Great idea. I will be doing that. thanks
  2. bigmal

    Ignition kill switch with key

    I have an electric fuel shutoff valve that is not easily accessible. This is hooked to my GPS tracker and can be controlled through my IPhone. Works pretty well. The system give me a phone an alert if the ignition is turned on or battery disconnected. Gives me peace of mind especially when at work. I also have a 9mm but in Aus we can't carry them :).
  3. bigmal

    Gauges not working...

    Have been there a few times. First was the gauge post shorting to the metal housing. More recently the after market CVR failed. I refitted the original 50 year old CVR and that fixed it. Good luck mate.
  4. bigmal

    Slip yoke to trans clearance?

    That's about the same clearance I have with weight on the wheels. 351 and FMX.
  5. I was looking at doing LEDs in those lights yesterday. Have replaced the rest of the courtesy lights already.
  6. Any response from Admin. Will a subscription or regular donations enable photos do be retained?
  7. Seriously, this car is doing my head in. When I first changed to right hand drive 18 months ago the fuel, oil and temp gauges would not work. Fitted a new Constant Voltage Regulator (CVR)…...still no good. After lots of trouble shooting and help from Midlife it turned out to be the terminal posts of the fuel gauge touching the instrument casing and shorting the three gauges. About 6 months ago the gauges stopped working again. After a few weeks I took a day off work to pull the dash and replace the CVR and see if there was another short circuit. I went to move the car and all gauges were working again and did so until today. I tried thumping the dash and that didn't help. My question...…..is there something else that these three gages have in common that may be the cause before I pull the dash? Also, is there any particular CVR that is better than others?
  8. It was back to not working again so I began trouble shooting yesterday. Took out the instrument panel and checked for a short between the instrument posts and the body pf the panel. Nuts were loose on one gauge but not shorting. Tightened them and tried it but no good. I had the original CVR that I changed when trouble shooting two years ago so I put that in. FIXED!!!. It was the cheap dodgy Chinese rubbish CVR. The 50 year old one works a treat. The Midlife harness makes it so easy to work on the panel. The loom is long enough I can have the panel right out and still have it connected. That alone makes it a great mod. Thanks for the help guys
  9. I'd be happy to contribute if that would solve the problem.
  10. Hi Guys, Thought I'd share my project with you. I am converting my 69 Mach 1 to RHD and some rust repairs. I have set myself a 30 day challenge officially starting this weekend. My goal is to have the main structure completed and engine in and running by 28 June as I have a month of long Service Leave. Although I did start a little early doing the wipers and taking out the windscreen on the weekend. I have been told by someone it will be off the road for at least 2 years. I need to prove him wrong.........I hope I don't eat my words. Following are some pics of the wipers. I am not sure this is how others tackled them but it works OK. Took a lot longer then I planned. Makes me nervous about the 30 day goal!
  11. Drove the stang to the shops today and planned on trouble shooting the gauges when I got home. Got in the car to drive home and they are working again. I have the take the dash out to sort out the GPS tracker that has an issue so I will change the CVR while it's out. I have a spare so worth a try. I love intermittent faults. they're the best!
  12. There is speculation in Australia that the unleaded fuel is causing the issue. Some say it is particularly with BP 97oct. My float looked fine but had a pin hole in the solder. I will try a plastic one next time it happens.
  13. The fuel sender float seems to be the norm. Happened to me and MAC390.
  14. Hi Mikee, yes. They use the two top bolts on the shock tower plus another I added. I thought that would give it the most rigidity.
  15. Will try that on the weekend. Thanks
  16. Thanks Bob, I already have this harness. Installed in 2027 when converted to RHD. A great mod. I also spent half an hour on the phone with him troubleshooting the problem when it happened back then.
  17. I have your dash harness so have crimped this myself. Is it possible it is in the ignition switch?
  18. Though I'd share the Monte Carlo Bar I made. I thought the 'off the shelf' ones looked a little flimsy. I had some spare 1" pipe and some brackets of my old boat (cavitation plate adjustment). Worked out pretty well. I can screw the end fitting out to take the load off the Export Brace. Makes fitting that pretty easy now.
  19. bigmal

    Gas Tank Pressure

    Thanks for that. I will look into getting one of these.
  20. bigmal

    Gas Tank Pressure

    Thanks Brian, I have made a paper gasket to see how it goes. If it leaks I will try your idea with the hole.
  21. bigmal

    Gas Tank Pressure

    Hi, I am not sure what you mean by a twist so I have attached a photo of mine. Under the cork it is a flat surface so it appears the only venting is from the notch.
  22. bigmal

    Gas Tank Pressure

    I was driving yesterday in 41deg (C) and noticed the gas tank was pressurised. The vent/dent is there but I also have a cork seal that is fitted that covers the dent. Is there meant to be a seal here? I think mine may be blocking the vent.
  23. bigmal

    S*it happens! :(

    So sorry mate. You must be devastated. Hope you're okay.
  24. Hi guys, I have an annoying vibration I've been trying to track down and suspect it's the flex plate. I have a 351 Cleveland with an FMX. It has new universals and tail shaft. I tried measuring the angles of the front and rear universals on the weekend but with the tail shaft in place I couldn't get an accurate measurement. Also has new tyres and new rear wheels with a good balance. The vibration occurs most significantly around 58 kmph. It's not severe but brings out the rattles that seem to be everywhere. Placing in neutral the vibration drops off but as the speed decreases quickly it very difficult to be positive that it's RPM related and not speed related, but I'm pretty sure. Interestingly it is silky smooth and quiet at 110 kmph. When I had the engine out last year I recall the Flex plate was marked in felt pen as '351 Windsor'. I have read that there are different counter weights for different engines. Would I be correct in thinking the 351 Windsor flex plate would have a different counter weights to a Cleveland? And would it cause the sort of vibration I have described. If this is likely to be the cause what counter weight flex plate should I get? Thanks.
  25. bigmal

    Chasing a Vibration - Flex Plate?

    Well I finished my rebuild and ran it today for the first time. I ended up installing a new correct flex plate which is a different bolt spacing to the original and the torque converter wouldn't fit. As this is the correct flex plate I bought a new torque converter which is substantially larger and 2500rpm stall. Engine was rebuild +.020 with 2V heads (were 4V) and some other bibs and bobs. Spent way more than I wanted to. ……………….It runs like a top. No vibration and more power. I also installed an electric fuel pump and my starting problems are gone. Definitely a worthwhile venture. Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I wish I could pinpoint exactly what was the cause of the vibration but very happy it's gone.
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