Rindelmach1

would be good to know why? inside trunk is finished so trying to avoid a paint job

reviving this topic to get some advise before i start this topic. I want to avoid drilling out spot welds from trunk section and just cut the frame rail but leave the lip of it welded. then my new section would just weld to that lip area. has anyone tried this before?

Something like the picture below. I took a small rectangle plate and made a slit so it would fit under gear (with sprint pushed back). Then added a sheet rock screw to tip so point was small enough to press against gear post. It came out by twisting the gear puller by hand. To put it back on, you simply put a small socket over it and tap it with small hammer. see mustang360 article http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/interior-electrical/75658/photo-24.html

hi bigmal, you have to pull the little gear off the clock wet pin (see photo). I used a ball joint puller and rigged it so it would fit the small gear. some people say to use long nose pliers but i was skeptical that I would break it.

yes but instructions are on paper. The site has a video that helped with all but the set knob removal.

hopefully this pic will help the next guy

I finally got my clock ticking again. After removing my clock to check out why it wasn't ticking, i notice the contact broke off but that was 1 of 2 issues. I ended up soldering it on after 1000 attempts only to find out that the solenoid was burnt out. I found a company that makes the original electromechanical kit and replaced the guts with NOS. I am a stickler for originality and didn't want to convert to quartz. I'll point out a few things that I'm sure will help the next guy. The clock set knob does not come off. I had to take off the sprocket (cog gear) by using a gear puller. Made a small plate with a slit to fit behind the small sprocket and attached a screw to the point of the gear puller so it would fit the tiny post on the gear. Then after a few steps i pulled the guts and replaced them.Kit cost $85 which was well worth it consider broken clocks are going for >$150. anyone needing advise can reply. thanks 104-12t electromechanical kit https://www.clocksandgauges.com/electric-clock-repair-kit.html

Glad to see all the comments especially because I'm around the NY/NJ area and surrounded by liberals. With all the riots in NYC and Law Enforcement hand cuffed, the Mayor decided to cut the Police budget by 1B.

I probably should really fix my fuse box. there is a whire clipped to the front of the 14a (courtesy light, etc) fuse. And a jumper from that contact to the 20a (horn, etc) fuse. Midlife do you know which wire is the main 12v feeding the fuse?

Since my radio, heater, ash tray and clock lights didnt work i suspected the fuse box. turned out to be that. I just stuck a probe on the fuse clips and got 12v and everything started working. Pretty strange but i guess bad connection. thanks for all the help.

thanks for advise. Will tshoot tomorrow. I am using LED but I made sure to test for +- and put them on correct position on the circuit board. I also hit the circuit board with 12v once the lights were in position. Now that I know the path from light switch, I can test at the fuse for 12v. BTW the ash tray, heater, radio, two clock lights are all out as well. So now that kind of rules out the plug right?

BTW - this is more of a sanity check. I think they should be 12v with light switch dimmer all the way on but i only get 6.5v. If i dim the light switch it will go down to 0.

At some point the dash lights stopped working on my 69 mustang mach 1. Temp, Tach, Fuel, idiot lights and turn signals work. I had a chance to remove my cluster and tested the lights by applying 12v from a batter to contacts on printed circuit board and they illuminate. I checked my fuse and it is not blow. I can check with voltmeter but question is, what should the voltage reading be for dash lights? I tested grounds and they work. The voltage reading on the plug (pin#2 facing driver side) feeds dash lights and i get 6-7 volts.

meant to say that I need the engine gauge feed, the one that connects the coil, oil sensor and water temp. my bad for not being clear

I have a tach car (original to the mach 1) with alternator indicator lamp ( dummy light) with factory 351 windsor 4 barrel. Any chance you can post the NPD or CJPony link with the exact one?