MatveyAddix

Worked part day Thanksgiving day and all day yesterday to fill some orders .Last part finished and my compressor gives out a couple of coughs ,then stops and starts again ,coughs a couple more times and nothing ...DOA!
I had an email from Harbor Freight ,it showed a 1 1/2 electric compressor motor for $149 ,Sweet ,just what i need .Get to harbor freight and notice a member discount for $119 for the same motor YEAH! 
I buy the motor and take it home ,open the box and notice a piece of packing foam missing ,not a big deal .I take the motor out of the box and find leaves under it ...HUH, thinking ...Something isn't right here .Then i notice the cord is cut off ...Oh crap ! I wire it up and hit the switch and noting ...not a friggen thing .Someone had returned it after frying it and they placed it back on the shelf ...well, now i am pissed .I return it ant let them know i wasn't happy .Counter lady say's go back and get another one ...They aint no more !!! This was a 28 mile trip for me one way so i wasn't in the best of moods when i got home .It will be at least next Wednesday before i get my compressor going now .

Got a 4160 (0-80508SA) and after a disappointing dyno night i decided to start figuring out why. I hooked my AFR gauge back up and did some WOT pulls on the road. During WOT my afr's are in the 11's which is too rich. During cruising and normal driving, everything is good. 
 
I called Holley and they said i need a secondary metering plate which is about $30. I'm concerned if im not too happy with it, then Im back to buying a new plate. I found these conversions that turn your 4160 into a 4150 w/ jets. But that widens my carb and then I'd have to botch my new fuel line.
 
So has anyone here made that swap? is it a pretty safe bet that it will help with my issue or just spend the money on the conversion?

Working on my pedal support since it is currently removed. My original bushings look brand new (13k miles on the car) but there is a bit of hype with the roller bearings. Is it worth the extra $$ to put roller bearings in now?

I have 12volts on the +side of ign. coil, and no pulse on -side, after replacing ignition box, pickup coil and coil itself.
I'm going back to my brother's house (broke down 1/2 mi. from there after 2 loud back-fires) and check to see if rotor is spinning under dist. cap. (nope, I didn't look)...I'm a poor excuse get mechanic, but I get.
Any of you guys have any ideas?
I'm new here, so if you think I sound dumb, you're right, I am.
...but I could sure fix AFCS, ADC, INS, etc. on the jets and E2B's on an aircraft carrier (Independence).
Thanks, guys

Hello, I have a 69 Mach1 with a 427 Windsor and 4 speed trans. due to the cam profile I removed the power brakes and installed a Wilwood master cylinder. I am running stock type front brakes with drilled and slotted rotors and stock 10" drums on the back. Everything is new. The pads I installed are stock type organics from Autozone. I have very good pedal but could use some more stopping "grip" This is a weekend nice weather cruise type of car. do you think I just need to go to a metallic pad or possibly ceramic, or even a set of EBC's
Thanks

Thanks Bill, its comming along. We had a couple days of mild 55 degrees days here in south Jersey so out came the Coupe & I cut the upper lip off the quarter skin & fitted & screwed it to the lip I left on the face of the old quarter panel, & clamped it. Looks like it will need a little tweaking for a better alignment to the door & the rear qaurter extension before I weld it in place. But for the most part it looks good I am happy with the fit & finish & thickness of the re-pop metal. Now off to the welding supply store for the gas for my newly upgraded welder. I went from flux core to MIG.

Hello All,
Well it is the end of the season here and I would like to
do a few fixes to the car.
One of the large issues I am having is with the gauges.
The fuel gauge reads full when only 3/4 full, the oil pressure has stopped working
 
I have not investigated the oil unit - -I have in the the past - grounded the sender wire and swapped the
sender. I continue to have some issues.
 
So I am thinking it is time to replace most of the gauge section.
I was thinking of replacing the following - 
1. - Circuit Board
2. - IVR
3. - Gauges
 
I would like to do this only once - I don't want to take the dash apart again and again
Oh the car is a 70 mach - not tach
 
So here are my many questions
1. - who makes the best original style gauges
2. - Same with the circuit board and IVR
3. - Guages?
2. - Should I try to find NOS on e-bay ?
 
I would like this to work - on just one try
 
So now that I have asked - I should also ask
Am I going at this in the right way?
 
I have a small multi meter but stink at electronics and electrical
I can pull the dash and cluster - but what do I do then?
 
Well I appreciate all the advice on this and all the other items I have had in the past
 
Be well - -Thanks again
 
Sam   Print Dad
 
 
 
1. - 

Is anyone here running the old style Goodyear Polyglas tires on your Mustang? I need a high res photo of an F60-15 tire for a project I'm working on. In short, I'm having some Tire Stickers made up so I can make new radial tires look like an original muscle car tire. It might look cool to add raised white letters to drag radials. or.... it might look odd. Either way it will be cheap to experiment. 
 
 

 
 

How cool with the spacer idea.   

Hi everyone, I need a few of you to measure from the rear of the rocker panel to the rear tyres and see if there's a difference side to side, I have a 9-10 mm difference but have done measurement checks of the chassis and its all within 2-3mm, so am at a bit of a loss as to where it's out? Or has anyone else had this issue?
Thanks

From the body shop that is. My best recollection is that it's been there since about 1999. Been in this stage for many of those years. Got side tracked with a divorce, built a shop, got married, had a shop at the new house but never brought it home, another divorce, sheesh!
Anywho, gonna start on fabbing up some round chromo control arms and coil overs, steering, 4 wheel disc, fit the engine/C5 trans and make a driveshaft, electrical, yada yada...
YEE HAW!!! I'm excited she's home.
 
Bob
 
 

Anyone used this kit? Says "most" 14" rims will work. Will the standard Mach rims work?
 
http://www.cjponyparts.com/brake-conversion-power-disc-kit-automatic-transmission-1968-1970/p/DBF30/?trk_msg=U6IC22D0OMP4P56872V78LP710&trk_contact=5Q82Q2JJJIO7CBA5AT9K0C2AIO&utm_source=Listrak&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=http%3a%2f%2fwww.cjponyparts.com%2fbrake-conversion-power-disc-kit-automatic-transmission-1968-1970%2fp%2fDBF30%2f&utm_campaign=black-friday
 
 

Hope everyone has a Happy Thanksgiving and Safe Travels. sure hope the turkeys
don't taste like car parts, lol

I'm heading to Columbus this Saturday for the big semi-annual all-Ford swap meet. It's a big one (used to be bigger before eBay and the internet ruined everything, but it's still big :)
 
Post up your want lists and I'll happily keep an eye out for stuff.
 
 

https://youtu.be/MykNy8e5boM
Shelby 500 transformation

http://kalecoauto.com
Perfect store to buy your Chevy friends Christmas gifts.

I need the drivers side only or a matched  pair if you have them.
 
 
Thanks

I would do the 3:55.   .     If you are not running an overdrive, the 3:80 will keep your RPMs high  on the highway.   I have 3.73s in my 1968 with a 5 speed, and it is a really good combination.  
 
From strictly a gearhead perspective, The gear ratios that have a common factor (the ring gear to pinion gear ratio have a common number) tend to make more noise.   The 3:55 to 1 will usually have a ring gear with 39 teeth and a pinion gear with 11 teeth.  (no common factor).  I have not seen a 3:80  gear ratio, but my assumption is that it would have 38 ring gear teeth, and 10 pinion gear teeth, the common factor for that ratio is 2. So, more noise, if that matters.
 
Also, check your engine rpm with your tire size and the different rear end ratios.   You will want to compare your engine rpm in each transmission gear with the different gear ratio and tire sizes to make sure you are within the torque band your camshaft.  This will also determine if your stall speed is correct.  Otherwise you may "bog" off the line, or feel "slip" at highway speeds.
 
The TCI and B&M websites have good info on the torque converter sizing considerations.
 
Nice car, I love that you kept the vinyl top....good luck!

Ok so I've lurked for a while on this site and thought I'd jump in finally.
 
So here is a brief story about about my car. I bought it at 16 (a couple decades ago) from my grandmother. Basic stats are
-Grande - New Lime/Black Top
-Dark Ivy Gold Interior
-302 2bbl/C4
-2.79 Conventional Rear Axle (though I suspect this was changed at some point to something in the high 3s but still not locking)
It was her daily driver. I drove it for a year or so and then I basically killed it in shop class. Had I been my own dad back then I would never had let my kid sign up to rebuild his Mustang Engine in shop class. Just saying.
 
Basic errors - too big of a Cam Shaft, missed an important frost plug that closes an oil galley, dented the door pushing it into a post, scratched the hell out of it when an unsecured hood slipped off the hinges, just to name a few.
 
So I drove it for a couple years, or tried to occasionally, and then parked it. I accumulated a part here or there for about 15 years then decided it was time to get her going again. So I pulled the motor again 3 years ago. Here is where I am at now.
-had the heads worked a bit (all the rocker studs had been pushed out due to the oversized cam) to change over to threaded rocker arm studs, also hardened seats were put in back in the 90s so no worries there
-Swapped the cam with a Competition roller cam
-Changed over to Competition roller rockers
-Moved to a Holley 4bbl 4160
-Replaced the exhaust manifolds with shorties
-Upgraded to duel flow master exhaust
-Changed out the front drums to 4 caliper discs
-GT'd up the suspension
-Rebuilt the front end
-Beefed up the suspension
-Coil over shocks in the rear
-Rebuilt the steering
-Rebuilt the Transmission
-Custom Torque converter
-Hotter Distribution (no more points for us)
-Patch some minor rust holes
-2 new Doors
-16 inch Vintage Wheel Works Rims
-And as of last week Primer
 
Also after media blasting we found 1 fender was a doner and the quarters must have been replaced in the 80s but they did so well we don't have to mess with it. The dented door was just easier/cheaper to replace, while the remaining door was patched to often to bother keeping it.
 
The goal is to be on the road in the next couple of months. I know this is a pretty light build compared to many on here but it's mine and I wanted to share. The new scheme is going to be Black Jade, with a white top, and a double white pin stripe (similar to the black but without the reflective center and painted not vinyl). The interior is going to be Dark Ivy Gold two toned with White Inserts - I'm not sure how this will look but I'm crossing my fingers. Later I'm going to switch out to HIDs head lamps and LED tail lamps.
 
My Paint Guy says it's bad news to have a car without a name. Since this car spent so long in the Blue Ridge Mountains I figured Virginia was fitting. I'll start with the before photos and add some more later in the week.

After a long sabbatical Fat Boy is back in the shop!!  Paint is done and the engine and trans go back in on Friday.  I need to have the distributor rebuilt, last time I used Tim O'Connor and he did a fantastic job but his website says he's closed. Any ideas on a super anal distributor freak that can do a phenomenal job rebuilding this bad boy?

I can't even comprehend what that would be like to live in, such a different climate to here. But we are hoping to experience it before too long, looking at doing a road trip in an RV across a fair chunk of your country, either in Nov/Dec but is now looking like it'll be Feb next year as it's a fair bit cheaper to travel at that time.
 
Hope the good weather continues for you anyway, get lots done!

I just got my paint chips from KBS coatings. The flat black seems to be very correct for the hood treatment. Checking with my paint guy tomorrow to get his opinion.. if anyone has used it , please post a pic or give your opinion.
 
Thanks,
Dave

Hi Folks,
 
I am starting a new thread for my engine bay restoration project. I am putting in a brand-new engine and transmission and decided to restore the engine bay while everything was out. My car is not concourse correct but I would like it to be mostly period correct. It's definitely not a resto mod. There are modern updates but I try to keep those hidden from view.
 
My first question is in regards to brake lines. I am replacing all the front brake lines with stainless steel versions. Did Ford paint any of those black like the engine compartment or should I just keep them the stainless steel color?

Well since I'll be doing and re-doing a lot of work to the car, I decided to start a thread. As some of you know, about two months ago my engine took a dump. I decided it was time to just rebuild. Its a 351w that I'll be stroking to a 408. I already bought the TFS heads because they were on sale. My plans for the engine are full roller with a mild cam for good street manners. I'll also be installing Cobra brakes all around. Right now I've got the granada set-up but with the new engine, I think its time to step it up. I already bought the calipers used on ebay. Now I just need the brackets from either mustang steve or ST. I also plan on installing a rack and pinion. Not sure from who yet.
 
Ive been working on this car for a little over 5 years. Till now the set-up worked great as a daily driver which last year saw over 12,000 miles on the highway alone. The car has been good to me since high school and I think its time to give it some loving. Usually I would do some work to it on my days off and then get it back on the road asap. This time I decided to get another car and stick the stang in the back yard. I've got a lot of little projects to do as well as some big ones. I have to finish covering the trunk in black carpet(3yr old project). I have to re-do the headliner, the right way this time, and re-seal the rear glass. I have to skin and paint my driver side door. I have to repaint the cowl as well as the black moldings around the rear glass. I'll be changing my heater core, again, and I'm also going to try to install some reclining seats.
 
For the big projects, I obviously have to rebuild the engine. I need to install the four wheel discs. I need to install the rack and pinion. And I need to sand and undercoat the under body, as well as pretty up the engine bay. My goal is to have it done by the end of August in time for the next semester of school. My budget for this is $8,000....which will most likely turn into 9k:whistling:. Although I've set my goal, I wont mind if it takes longer or more money as long as I do it right. I began the tear down 6 weeks ago and I'll be starting the work next week after finals. All comments, criticism, and advice are welcome. This is what Im starting with.

Hello, new to joining the forum.  Have followed a lot of the other builds here, which are awesome, and wanted to share where we are in ours.  My dad and I acquired the car in late 2014.  It came with an extremely mild 351C and a C6 tranny.  He tinkered on it here and there and added a few parts but always wanted a little more.. who doesn't.. So after I brought home a 2016 mustang GT he was hooked on the coyote 5.0  We had originally planned strictly a front end conversion and engine/tranny swap but this has turned into a full blown build.  Many of the parts came from Mustangs to Fear, and they have been really really nice to work with.  All of the work is being completed by GT Graphics and Customs out of Franklin, NC.  Both Gary and Teresa over at GT Graphics and Customs are first class individuals.  We couldn't be more pleased with them.
 
I won't bore you with a parts list so here's some pictures of where we are at!
 
Here's the current stable of cars:
 

 
The tear down...
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
Some problem areas...