rosalindet16

Thanks Vic. Today I finished welding in the l/s inner torque box & welded in the l/s outer torque box.
 

 

Today after work I spent a couple hours welding in the l/s door post patches & grinding the welds.
 

Would like to share this video with you guys. In my opinion this is one of the best mustang models of all models. 
[media] [/media]
That is why i love 1969 Ford Mustang Boss 429 so much!

looking for a mach 1 clock for parts or complete. mostly just need the set gear and spring   thanks 

He she is in all of her glory. Left to sit under a tree for twenty five years.
Future plans:
Street or track front and rear suspension
4.6 mod motor, carbed with a functioning shaker. 2v or 4v tbd.
5 speed swap
Discs all,around.
Swap out factory power steering for manual.
 

 
 

 
I drug her out, and towed her home.
 

As some of you know, I had to tear down my 357C for leaking valves. As I sit there staring at the engine compartment with just a short block & trans, I'm contemplating now would be the time to change torque converters and build another motor. 
 
I have a stout AOD and a 28 spline 9" w/ 4:11's, I want to build a Stroker either a Windsor or Cleveland, in addition I want to add a Power Brake booster and maybe some sort of Power Steering.  I don't want to get carried away with Torque & Horsepower above 550, but both can easily achieve that.
 
With the popularity of Stroker Kits and new developments of Alloy heads, both W & C prices have come down with the Cleveland just a little more pricey.
 
Here are my thoughts:
The Cleveland has thinner walls making it hard to go past  0.30. On the oiling side there are options for Oiling mods, which I already did with the 357C.
Plus my car is already set up for the Cleveland, such as radiator, water pump, Intake, Distributor, Shorty Headers, Valve Covers, fuel pump  etc..
I would have to change my front coil springs because of differences in motor weight.
Also, I have a big graphic sticker on the side of my car "351 Boss".
Just pulling spark plug wires on a Cleveland with tall Valve Covers is a chore, imagine changing plugs.
Another thought, I'd like to use long tube headers, with the shorty headers, one tube is a papers width away from the shock tower, this goes to show how tight the Cleveland's are, they have (small block short blocks) & (big block heads). The heads and tall valve covers prevented me from using a power brake booster.
 
 
The only thing I can see going for the W is better oiling, thicker walls and smaller heads allowing the ease of headers, change of spark plugs and the use of a power brake booster.
I would have to get all new external components such as oil pan, headers, intake, Dist, water pump, Alt brackets, Radiator and whatever else I can't remember for now.
 
The WOW factor for me is that the Windsor is smaller and must be a lot easier to work on.
 
What do you think?

In the next few months or so ill be picking up the aaw kit. For those who have it, is there an extra line that has enough (30) amps to run fans? Im not too worried about the headlight relays they have but how has that worked if you're running h4 or halogen bulbs? generally, what are the amp ratings for the open spots not assigned to anything? Have any suggestions, or negative things to look out for? 
 
Thanks. 

Table of Contents provided by Mach1Driver

 
3M Rust Fighter, door seam, pg28


 
alternator, DeadNutsOn, pg17

angle grinder, pg7


 
backspace, pg41

backup LED, pg31

balancing tires, pg15, 41

bellhousing/spacer plate, pg15

blocking, pg5

brake lines and flaring, pg22

buffing trim, pg28

buffing, pg37


 
calendar cover picture, pg51

caliper kit, CSRP, pg7

CalTrac pg6, 8, 45, 47

cam specs, pg6, 16

cam, pg2

car dolly, pg5

car show, pg44

carpet, pg25

cart, car, pg3, 5

cleaner/zinc, lower dash, pg10

clock cluster, pg34

clock, quartz, pg30

clutch, pg47

compressor size, pg 37

console/gauges, pg12

cowl, pg35


 
Dan & Dad, pg44

dash, pg11

deadeners/sealers, trunk, pg13

DFLP and 32586, pg30

door weights, loaded, pg5

drag tuning, pg45

dragstrip, pg45

drive line angles, pg1, 31

driveshaft loop, pg25

driveshaft, pg21

Dynaliner, pg9

Dynamat Extreme, pg9

Dynamat usage, pg 36

dyno testing, pg6

dyno, pg14


 
emblems, pg12

engine assembly pics, pg9

engine costs, pg7

engine crossmember, pg1

engine final, pg14

engine specs, pg6

engine update, pg8, 10, 11, 12

engine wire harness, pg17

engine, 1st run, pg21

engine, 418, pg8

engine, pg7

engine/trans assembly, pg16

engine/trans install, pg20

engine/trans, how to install, pg16

epoxy primer, pg39

Evapo-Rust, pg9

exhaust pics, 3”, pg30

exhaust, pg22, 24, 29, 32, 33


 
fan blade, pg1

fastener kits, pg44

filler neck fit, pg20

fire extinguisher positions, pg43

first car, pg10

flashers, pg30

flocking, pg12

floor support crossmember, pg8

flywheel/clutch, pg46

fold down seat, pg28

fold down seat, pg29, 32

FPA header problems, pg24

front fender extensions, pg5

fuel filler mod, pg 21

fuel filter, pg9

fuel gauge sender, pg9

fuel line mod, pg25

fuel line, pg9, 17

fuel system update, pg34

fuse terminals, pg30


 
gauge light tuning, pg 31

glass install, pg31

glass, pg26, 28

gotchas, pg20

guide coat, pg5, 7

gun bluing, pg6


 
header finish, pg5

headers, pg1

headlight/fender extensions, pg33

headliner, pg24

heads, pg6

heater box repair/paint, pg10

heater control bezel repair, pg11

height, pg43

hood paint wax test, pg38

hood trim, pg41-43


 
instrument regulator, pg22

Instrument Specialties, pg29

insulation, back area, pg26

insulation, pg25

interior quarter panels, pg12, 38


 
leaf spring addition, pg 46

leaf spring perches, pg 33

LEDs, dash, pg24, 25, 30, 32

license plates, pg24

line lock/rev limiter, pg12, 22

lug centric rims, pg15


 
Mastercool flaring tool set, pg23

Media blasted, car, pg1

milling intake manifold, pg13

mono-leaf springs, pg47

motor mount, pg47

mufflers, pg6

Mustang emblems, pg11


 
oil pan clearance, pg20

oil pan install, pg23

oil pan mod, pg23

overflow can, pg27, 28


 
paint booth filter, pg17

paint booth ventilation, pg13

paint booth venting, pg37

paint booth, pg5

paint colors, misc. parts, pg21

Paint Defender, pg45

paint guns, pg37

paint stripper, pg9

paint, A-pillar trim, pg25

paint, A-pillars, pg25

paint, anti-sway bar, pg6

paint, battery tray, pg6

paint, body mount locations, pg8

paint, body primer, pg5

paint, body, pg17, 18

paint, calipers, pg7

paint, Caltrac bars, pg6

paint, coil springs, pg6

paint, color test, pg3

paint, console, pg12

paint, dash outer and inner caps, pg11

paint, dash parts, pg9

paint, dash, pg10, 30

paint, doors/hood, pg14

paint, driveshaft, pg23

paint, EM brake, pg3

paint, engine and parts, pg10

paint, engine bay, pg8, 18, 19

paint, engine enamel, pg3

paint, engine, pg6, 15

paint, fan blade, pg3

paint, fiberglass panels, pg17

paint, fold down seat, pg29

paint, hood, MTF, pg41

paint, hood, pg34, 38

paint, jack, pg17

paint, leaf springs, pg6

paint, lower control arms, pg8

paint, misc. small parts, pg8

paint, outer dash trim, pg21

paint, pedal assembly, pg4, 5

paint, pinchweld, pg19

paint, radiator, pg8

paint, rear end, pg4, 21

paint, scattershield, pg7

paint, seat frame, pg17

paint, seat tracks, pg11

paint, shaker ribs, pg4

paint, shaker, pg3, 4

paint, spring perches, pg3

paint, spring stripes, pg7

paint, steering box, pg11

paint, steering column lower cover, pg21

paint, steering column wire cover, pg21

paint, steering column, pg10

paint, steering wheel trim, pg11

paint, stone deflector, base and clear, pg12

paint, strut rods, pg10

paint, trunk, pg13

paint, undercarriage, pg8, 35

paint, upper control arms, pg6

paint, wiper motor, pg9

panel gaps, pg1, 4

Parkerizing, pg4

phenolic spacer test, pg35

phosphate and oil (P&O} durability test, pg9

phosphate finish, pg4, 5

pressure plate, pg16

primer, K36, pg7

primer/blocking final, pg14


 
Quiet Ride Solutions, pg25


 
radio conversion, pg44

rear end, pg4

rear gears, pg2

rear lights, pg24

rear springs, pg6

red oxide, pg8

remetalized clock cluster, pg 29

residual valve, pg22

Rimblow Buddy cost, pg28

Rimblow/line lock, pg11

Rimblow Buddy, pg11

rubbing compound and polish, pg37, 38

rust remover, chemical, pg9


 
sail panels, pg26

sealer, inside cabin, pg9

seam sealer, pg35

seat belts, pg36

seat fabric, pg13

seats, pg34, 35

shaker fit, pg38

shaker trim fit, pg44

shaker, pg2, 3

sheetmetal replacement, pg1

sheetmetal thickness, pg37

shock extensions, pg47

shock tower reinforcement, pg22, 48

shocks, pg45

side scoop caulk, pg38

sleeper engine bay, pg20

Slide On Application Gel, pg42

sound deadener SF, pg9

sound deadener, inside cabin, pg9

sound deadener, pg26, 35

sound deadener, rear wheelwells, pg8

sound deadener, roof, pg8, 9

sound deadeners/sealers, trunk, pg25

sound deadening on quarters, pg38

sound test, pg37

space saver spare tire, pg43

spark plug looms, pg49

Spectrum Second Skin, pg13

splash shields, pg26

spray gun, pg12

Ssnake Oyl, pg36

stabilizer bar fitment, pg23

stance, pg26

steering impression, pg40

stripes, pg42, 43

subframe connectors, pg1

suspension install, pg19


 
tach mount, pg 22

tail light bulbs, pg24, 30

TFS hi port heads, pg3

TIG, pg36, 37

timing mod, pg24

tools, sheetmetal forming, pg7

trailer tie downs, pg39

trap door, pg28

trunk catch, pg23

trunk finished, pg25

trunk, pg32


 
upper control arms, pg6


 
valve covers, pg6, 17

venting, fuel tank, pg49

video, 1st time on street, pg39

video, drag, pg46

video, drive, pg40

video, driving, pg32

video, in driveway, pg31

video, rear suspension, pg46


 
water pump, pg9

water shield, pg38

Weatherpak connector, pg23

weight, pg47

wheel/tire combo, pg47

work table, pg37


 
z-bar, pg1

z-bar rework, pg23

zinc phosphate, hood hinges, pg7

zinc phosphate, hood latch, pg7


 
 
i had posted this on another forum (non-mustang) a few weeks ago and it seemed only appropriate that it should really exist on a 69 mustang forum...
 
here is a summary of what has been completed over the course of the last 1.5 years....
 
 
i had just finished making the rotisserie and moved the car off the temporary dolly. i was pretty nervous the first time i flipped this car around!
 

 
after a lot of structural metal work, i media blasted the car
 

 
made my own set of subframe connectors. nothing on the market was what i wanted.

 
replaced more sheetmetal. both sides, outer wheelhouses, trunk floors, quarter panels, not to mention all the patch panels...


 
finished fitting the doors, trunk lid, quarter extensions, valance. then glazing, sealing and fill priming...

 

 
i've been working on mocking up the engine, transmission, cooling, etc. TFS high ports, scattershield and a victor junior have created a challenge. finally finished up the clutch linkage, modifying the headers (had to completely relocate two tubes. i've sliced up the shaker and have finally have a legitimate plan to fit it under the hood and retain the vacuum system and external appearance. it's about 1/2" high in the picture.

 
 
 

I probly posted question on wrong forum , My wires on my windsheild motor  were cut off short the switch has the red white blue and black that go to the motor I think the green should go to the washer pump that leaves the white with black stripe and the orange with a white stripe are they both power in ?

Trying to work the bugs out of a new combination.
 

How do you fasten this piece in place? http://www.themustangshop.ca/product/302184/658537
 
Just installed a tremec tko 600 in to my 69 fastback. I still have the automatic console with the automatic insert.
 
I see that the above chrome bezel needs to be installed however there are no holes nor locations pins.
 
I have the 70 hurst boot installed and 538-4106 shifter. I know there's a difference in the automatic vs standard console insert in the slant of the opening I believe.
 
I may stand corrected on that one.
 
Thanks....John

As I have been working on getting this chassis ready for bracing yesterday, I needed a way to keep the poor thing a little more stable. With the rocker out of it makes it impossible to hold it still without welding something in it's place. So instead of welding / fastening a temporary brace in the car, I chose to just temp install the parts that will be installed. Interesting concept, but at least I'll know that they will fit. The car came with some replacement pieces that could be used, like the inner rocker. This part came from the factory on the long side in order to make all the tabs and connecting flanges manually. Starting with the given point of 22" for the rear wheel well area to the seat belt hole, I made the appropriate tabs out of the extra material and bent them in their proper direction and angle. The Weld and Sealant manual is a good reference for the direction of the tabs, not so much on the size or location. I seem to be doing a lot of inner rocker installs as of lately, practice makes perfect lol
 

 
Fitting it in the rear torque box area and over the floor reinforcement piece required a little persuasion as the rear of the car was moved up, kinda neat how much it moves vertically. Getting the inner rocker to fit correctly took a bunch of clamps and some strategic hammer blows to get it situated. Surprisingly enough, it went in and was level (measuring level at the middle top portion) just like the other side. The old part does have surface rust that will be taken care of before it is welded in place. 
 

 

 
When I built the table, the second crossmember was measured and placed to align with the front of the torque boxes for a good reference point. Using a square to transfer the area of the inner rocker to be trimmed and for tabs was as simple as lining up the front of the tube and transferring the mark on the part.
 

 
The mark I made on the inner rocker was the outside of the forward torque box, so the thickness of the front of the box (I allowed .125") for the bend radius plus the metal thickness. This is another place that the factory makes tabs on the inside of the rocker to have more attachment points, I go a little bit farther and cap the end of the "tube" for more strength. This inner rocker is not tapered up towards the front torque box, which might have to be another modification. I needed to see how the torque box was going to align due to this fact. Prepping the area by grinding down the PO's leftover spot weld remnants (thanks whoever took it apart, you did a great job lol) the outer portion of the torque box popped right in place. Using a couple 18R vise grips to hold it up I installed the inner rocker on it's outboard side. (not in the picture)
 

 
I did test fit the outer rocker before any of this was attempted, it fit fairly well. It is going to need some clamping in order to be dimensionally correct, but will work nicely. Once all these pieces are happy in their new positions (sheet metal screwed together) I can get the doors on this and continue getting the chassis braced and properly supported. So far, so good

So I'm looking at maybe buying a 69 or 70 R code Mach 1. There's a couple in my area. These are matching numbers and restored about 7-10yrs ago and driven approx 2k on one and 6k on the other. 1 is a 4 spd car and the other has a C6. Both look really nice. One has front and rear spoiler and no slats while the other has no spoilers or slats. I'm just wondering what you guys think might be a good price to pay. I know that with Barrett Jackson prices most people have an unrealistic idea of what their car is actually worth. I'm finding the prices out here pretty high. What do you think would be a decent price for a decent car? Thanks!

Anybody going next weekend? June 24-25-26.

Ok, so I had a tire blow out on the front passenger side at 40 MPH, took out the wheel well chrome trim and pushed the back of the fender out about a quarter inch .... trim is not salvageable :(   ..... however I believe I can save the fender ..... BUT ... <always a but in these things somewhere .... there are two bolts at the bottom rear of the fender that bolt up into the rocker panel??? I loosened the bolts to push the fender back in and the rear most bolt came out with the nut / body nut / mounting nut / I'm not sure what it's called nut .... it fits into a rectangular slot in the rocker ... well that nut piece is broken. not the nut actually but the wings / keepers / holderinplace things that keep the nut in the slot .... I've called all the usual suspects, CJ's, Mustang's Unlimited, California Mustangs, etc .. ad nauseam .... and they were about as helpful as my wife ... actually she was more helpful .... she said "you should ask those guys with the NICE cars on that website you're always looking at"  I'm still fuming about the way she emphasized "NICE cars" .... as if mine is a POS .... I may have to remind her that the trunk has plenty of room in it ....  anyway to sum it up, does anyone with a NOT so nice car know where to get mounting hardware for the front fender or the nut???  Thanks, Mike

Our Logo is getting a little tiresome to look at it.  I would like to update it with member photos of their car's.  If you would like to see your car up top where the current 69stang.com banner is submit a few side shots here.  I don't know if we have any photoshop users still on the forums but I may need your help putting this banner together, so please reply here!

hi,  i can't find it in the repair manuals,   the power steering cyl that mounts to the frame,  the bracket on the frame has a 3/4 or 7/8 hole that the cyl rod goes thru,  does any one have a picture of what or how is used to hold it in place?,    i made a nylon type washer to fit in the hole and 2 nylon washers outside the shole to hold it in place,  but  i don't think its right,   does any one know?,  thanks    jerry

I rolled my new project out of the storage lot, and took it home to start bringing it back to life. I bought the car back in January of this year, and have been gathering parts in order to make it a reality instead of an idea.


This is a true Graber Special, Marti report and all, also know as a "poor mans" Boss 302. This one had a 302 2v, auto, manual drum, and power steering. I told my Wife when I bought it, that I purchaced a rolling roof with a title. She had not seen it since its purchace and was questioning my sanity after rolling it off the trailer. I have started with worse, and at least this project is fairly well "rust free" (ha-ha). It will stay Grabber Green, but the build will be a G-Machine theme. I am waiting on Street and Track to come out with their new rear suspension later this year, to see what they come up with. 

I am going to try out Dynacorn sheet metal on this build, and see if it fits any better than some of the other ti-chen stampings offered by other vendors. The full quarters look good out of the box, hope they don't require a bunch of fitting (cutting in half, beating, re building,ect...). Been there, done that. I did go ahead and get the Goodmark mini tubed inner fenders to use, I could have widened some regular ones, which would have been cheeper in the long run.

I would like to be able to build these cars on a regular basis, so this one is going to be sort of an extream advertisment. I am not going to jump into a business venture quite yet, but ease into it, if it works. Playing with rusty old cars has been part of my life, and I enjoy most every aspect of it. Well see where it goes.
The only part of the build I have not decided on is to build it as a 1970, or 69ish Boss 302? I have always wanted a G coded 69, and could make one, just not so sure yet. Any way, here are a couple of pics as I dig into what is left of this body, and this is the way I bought it, less work for me? My Wife is still wondering...
 
 

I'll give you hint... I picked them up off the ground under the car.  :(
 
I've had a bit of a bad day.
 
 

Sure was a lot of work fitting the 'glass stuff and figuring out how the front grille/headlight bucket area went together.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I purchased some new brake drums (for another car) from NAPA and the left front wheel would drag the new pads whenever I turned. I backed the adjuster all the way out and this helped but didn't solve the problem. As I put the drum back on the car, I spun it and noticed that it looked VERY out of round. Anyone ever have this issue before? I have a new set on order for pickup today.
 
I put the old drum back on thinking I messed something up with installing new pads. And it spun fine.

Purchased my car almost 3 years ago. Finally have some extra $$ to start the resto. After pulling out the interior, I discovered that the passenger rear floor had been buckled due to rear being hit and poorly repaired.
 
I had the trunk floor cut and repaired, along with the tail light panel, and have started stripping. Hoping to have the floor repaired and rest of car stripped and body work done this month.

Curious what people are using for a durable coating for their headers? I cant remember what I used the last time (in 1988) but I can tell you it did not last long at all. the coating peeled and burned off and before I knew it, it was rusty again. I've heard or a POR product and Eastwoods Calyx.
 
Thanks

I thought this was a fun build.  I like the paint but think I'd personally swap the wheels out.  The one thing I'm trying to wrap my head around is the math.  They said they spent 40k on the car and parts (seems low) and 310 hours on the build.  It sold for 56.5k.  Now if you were paying straight rates at shop that is at least 20k in man hours probably closer to 25k.  Even if you own the business and pay 1/2 that, it doesn't seem like a lot of profit.  But most the time was volunteer time I think.  Not that I'm knocking them building the car I just always have a laugh at the prices and profits they show on reality shows.
 
 
 
 

Thanks Bill, its comming along. We had a couple days of mild 55 degrees days here in south Jersey so out came the Coupe & I cut the upper lip off the quarter skin & fitted & screwed it to the lip I left on the face of the old quarter panel, & clamped it. Looks like it will need a little tweaking for a better alignment to the door & the rear qaurter extension before I weld it in place. But for the most part it looks good I am happy with the fit & finish & thickness of the re-pop metal. Now off to the welding supply store for the gas for my newly upgraded welder. I went from flux core to MIG.