Jump to content

Stock 87

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Stock 87

  • Rank
    Mustang Owner

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Have a dynacorn passenger side B pillar in weld through primer. CJs only sells them as a set, and I only needed the Drivers side. $125 plus shipping from 19526
  2. Started with using some red paint to transfer the part I cut out onto a sheet of 20ga CRS. Cut it out just to the outside of my paint line. I then used an 80 grit roll loc disk to final fit the part. Used a piece of RR track as an anvil to beat the rough contours into my patch panel. Tacked in place. Looks like I get to keep my money.
  3. So you are saying the location of the "pinch weld" is correct?
  4. Any idea how the trunk drop off to outer wheel well should finish? Both sides of mine where roached before I started the repairs so I have nothing to go reference. It doesn't seem right for the joint to be sticking into the wheel opening. It's the area to the left of the mini bike tire in this photo.
  5. Need to get some more 20ga. In the shop to make the patches. Some how I've run out. I really don't think this is going to be that hard to do. Still need to peel what's left of the old quarter of near the rear window and from under the roof. Otherwise I should be able to test fit the new quarter panel . Baby stepsðŸº
  6. Not sure I follow you. Im not having second thoughts on a coyote engine. I know one of those make me happy. It's the 4.6/5.4 engine that I'm not going to be using due to packaging and the other reasons stated above.
  7. Decided to try my hand at patching my B pillar. If I could purchase one side the cost would be easier to stomach. Due to the fact, that I know I would have a passenger side B pillar floating around the shop for the rest of my life, I'm going to try fixing it first. Removing the strike was no easy task Separating the parts was a bit easier than expected. And it offers me the opportunity to get some of the nasty parts of it into the blast cabinet. Wish I could get this entire part into the bead blaster. 😭 Don't think it didn't cross my mind to remove it just so I could blast it. I know it would be easier today it outside and blast it on the car.lol Laid out the first of what will end up being five +\- patches on just this panel. Another coulpe hours I should have enough prep work complete that I can dry fit try the quarter panel.
  8. I braced the car for the cowl replacement. I also ran a spreader, rocker to rocker, at the floor supports while the floor was out. That was pretty much the extent of it. I also made a dolly for moving it around while I have sheet metal missing. I know if I still had it on the rotisserie while doing this work she'd have folded in half. The rear window panel joint will be installed just like the factory did it.
  9. Here is a little taste of things to come. I know the title to this build is SOT suspension and a mod motor. Problem is I'm falling out of love with the mod motor. Still 100% sure I will be using SOT suspension. A few of the most obvious mod motor issues, Not a Coyote engine- this needs no explanation To big- wider than a 429 from my research Under powered - again no explanation needed Expensive to run stand alone Here she is It's a wide ratio 1968 small block 4 speed with what looks to be an original hurst shifter. A guy I know had a friend with one left over from a Cobra build. I also acquired a clutch pedal, a MT brake pedal, a roller bearing kit and installed it into my brake pedal bracket. (Car was an auto) At this point I'm leaning toward a hot small block for motivation. How hot? I guess it depends on what crosses my path in the next few months. I just missed a used Lakewood scatter shield for half price. 😩
  10. Since my quarter panel install is being postponed until my B pillars arrive I decided to finish tying up loose ends on the front of the car. The lower/outer cowl was still floating around the shop from when I installed the new cowl. Chances are it happened because I normally work from one side of the shop on stuff like this. It's easier to turn the car around than it is to drag the welder and all of my tools to the other side of the car. Yes, I did turn the car around last night with plans to start banging out this side. Nice dynacorn repops, complete cowl and the lower cowl, excellent fit. Couldn't be happier with these parts. I also replaced the inner kick panel on this side. Again unbelievable how well it fit. Just like it came from the ford factory.
  11. She gone! Took about ten minutes to remove the drivers side quarter. I'm going to wait to remove the last bits of it for now. Seems as if the easiest way to repair my B pillar is going to be replacing it. Since I've decided to go this route I will need the small parts of the old quarter for guides. (Maybe?) This sucker is ugly. I sure hope the aftermarket parts are of good quality. This whole rear valance thing has me butt hurt now. And to think, I was under the impression I didn't need to order any more sheet metal.
  12. I'm headed out to go cut this mess off the car. I cannot believe I was debating whether or not to replace the quarters. After installing the new trunk floor/drops the bottom of the quarters turn out perfect. Not sure if this picture shows just how nice and clean this area is. Way better than I ever could have expected.
  13. Cowl has been replaced, outer lower cowl is back on too.
  14. Melted the lead out of the drivers side sail panel. I'll end up cutting just to the inside of the panel. Once the rough cut is complete I will start picking away at the rest of it. This technique makes a clean removal much easier
  15. Got the passenger side quarter 90% burned in. Ordered a rear valance from CJs while fitting it. The non dynacorn part is a joke. I tried posting a review to the site but they must filter out the bad ones. This is the second time that has happened. Edit for clarity: I just compared the repop to my original. The clips on the backside of the repop are inboard to far. May only be pulled in toward the center of the car a 1/4". This is enough to be in the same space the pinch weld occupies. This interference can be addressed to allow it to fit pretty easy I guess.🔨🔨🔨BFH My original fits like a glove but is all banged up. Looks like it's getting fixed.
  • Create New...